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Old 03-16-2012, 01:31 PM   #1516
DirtJack
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Originally Posted by the foolish fellow View Post
Is the 0.67 tps voltage as read from the photos I took of the tune ecu screen too high . Should I adjust it back to 0.5 ?
The service manual says 0.6 volts when closed (engine warm). The acceptable range is 0.56 to 0.64 . Everyone says to get it as close to 0.6 as possible.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:29 AM   #1517
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Finally got the tpc set after purchasing a small wratchet for hex head bits. That has fixed the accelerator woes. Not that easy to set. Now to get on with the original problem of trying to eliminate the hesitation / stalling i am getting at around the 4k revs. It seem to be worse if im standing on the pegs,
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:44 AM   #1518
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Could you spread some light to this voodoo ritual?

Quote:
Originally Posted by the foolish fellow View Post
Finally got the tpc set after purchasing a small wratchet for hex head bits. That has fixed the accelerator woes. Not that easy to set. Now to get on with the original problem of trying to eliminate the hesitation / stalling i am getting at around the 4k revs. It seem to be worse if im standing on the pegs,
O.K. warm engine and you turn it off. Plug in the pc and check the TPS voltage. Then remove throttle bodies and loosen the TPS screw. Turn the sensor a little bit, while you are checking TPS voltage or you need to put TB in place? and then turn on the motor or not?
Sorry but am collecting info to take the plunge.
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:33 AM   #1519
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Originally Posted by gefr View Post
O.K. warm engine and you turn it off. Plug in the pc and check the TPS voltage. Then remove throttle bodies and loosen the TPS screw. Turn the sensor a little bit, while you are checking TPS voltage or you need to put TB in place? and then turn on the motor or not?
Sorry but am collecting info to take the plunge.
Engine is off but warm. Ignition on to adjust it while plugged into ecu.
You can take your throttle bodies off but it's much easier to make a hole in the airbox, adjust the tps and plug the hole. My opinion.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:43 AM   #1520
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Another one.

When warming up the engine, do we keep the computer pluged in, or we plug it in after turning off?
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:47 AM   #1521
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Originally Posted by gefr View Post
When warming up the engine, do we keep the computer pluged in, or we plug it in after turning off?
You can do either one. I like to plug it in be abuse it's pretty
Oh that and it's nice to see what's going on
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:54 PM   #1522
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When turning the sensor, do we see the TPS volts changing real time?
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:56 PM   #1523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
When turning the sensor, do we see the TPS volts changing real time?
Yes in real time. Turn it VERY slowly. It doesn't need much.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:19 PM   #1524
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Thanks a lot.

You also recommend throttle cable adjustment and throttle bodies adjustment prior to TPS adjustment. Throttle bodies adjustment is not done automatically through ECU?
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:36 PM   #1525
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You also recommend throtle cable adjustment and throtle bodies adjustment prior to TPS adjustment. Throtle bodies adjustment is not done automatically through ECU?
Throttle bodies are adjusted with a screw on the left by the linkage. It has yellow or blue paint on it.
You should do it before the tps and recheck it after the tps as it might alter the tbs sync.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:52 AM   #1526
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Thanks man now I feel ready to dive in.

Cheers.
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #1527
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10 Min idle reset?

I found this over in another thread talking about a 10 min idle reset vs. 15 minutes. Most interesting is the sequence after the 10 min; "key-off, run switch-off, key-on, run switch-run, start".

Not really worried about the extra 5 minutes, but the key/kill switch sequence is interesting. Could not find anything about it in the service manual. Anyone else heard this before?

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I'm about to install the crash guards. After I get them on I'm going to do the "15min idle" EFI stabilization. (@ KTM Tech school I was told 10minutes for street EFI models is sufficient) When you get up the next morning after your first days ride I would recommend repeating this procedure- this would also warm your oil for a change. Buy some oil from us, then stop at an 10-minute oil change place & ask them if you can change the oil there & give them the old oil. Maybe even a Walmart auto service area, if you could "wow" them with your story of the fly, buy & ride!

Once you make it to Denver, repeat the 10min idle reset. You'll be getting closer to the 8300ft elv of Utah and the bike will respond better. You of course will want to do this when you get home, so the EFI knows its operating base. If you aren't familiar, you start & idle the bike for 10minutes at which time you do not touch the throttle. At the end of 10min, turn the bike off with the key, turn off the engine run switch. You can now turn the key back on, flip the run switch to "run" and start the bike as usual. On quite a few Keihin EFI bikes (Husaberg & KTM models) the bike sounds totally different with a smoother idle & throttle response.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:15 AM   #1528
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09 map in an 07

tried putting the values from an 09 standard map into my '07, it didn't work. I copied and pasted all f the maps into the 07 filebut the bike wouldn't start.

can anyone explain what each of the tables in the maps are for. I might possibly try just pasting some of them in if i knew a little more about what exactly they were doing.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:21 PM   #1529
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It would seem strange if the ecu were monitoring the run switch when its turned off with the ignition, perhaps even miraculous if it were to have no power and still manage this... It certainly wasnt needed on my 08 S model.
I made this statement in a garbled way a while back and wondered if anyone had any thoughts: how can the 10min reset work if O2s are off? My own theory is it can't, there's no feedback in the system, experience seems to back this up.
Foolishfellow, glad u got your idle issue sorted. Sorry my message was a bit garbled coming from a iphone! If you cut down a torx bit and tape it in a spanner its quite possible to adjust the TPS without taking throttle bodies off, drilling holes or even removing a petrol tank, just take off the lid of the airbox, 5min job. Never needed to fiddle with the painted screws, sounds like trouble to me ;) Regarding the table meanings I think its all in the documentation.
If struggling with economy 40mpg is easy with the map I posted earlier. 55 is my target, that would give me 500miles per fill up, cool :) my datalogger is showing 10-11:1 AFR everywhere so I think its possible. Believe it or not a stck Akro map barely makes 10:1 shocking! 8(
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:22 PM   #1530
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Thanks. Here it is...


I am putting together some screenshots of the TuneECU software install locations and Driver details for those that might have problems with Windows 7 OS.
After looking the tutorial over and over i see that i missed a few screen shots, but i hope i covered enough that most will get it.

I did this just after a new install of the OS. With .net framework 3.5 that came with the software. I did do the security updates for .net 3.5
I was having problems getting things to work on my laptop that had a fairly fresh install of Windows 7 with net framework 4.0

Hope it might help someone.

Cheers...


First get the software and drivers fron the TuneECU site..

I just put them on the desktop for now to be extracted to the directories that you will create.

The next shots are my file locations that i unzipped. This has been working for me.
TuneECU in C:\ program files, you can see location on top address bar.


My driver location. Notice i put my ECUtunes folder, as instructed...


This is what my unzipped Driver folder looks like.


Note from Tom at TuneECU... he suggested to unhook the Internet cable and you don't have to make the changes i did below, to keep Windows from getting drivers from the web.

But this is how I did mine.
After the files are in the proper folders. The first thing i did was find how to shut down windows from going to the web for Device Drivers, so this is how i got there. Note: You can still get device drivers from the web but this stops the windows wizard from doing it.

Open the control panel. Notice i have my folder set to view large icons, i can navigate it better.


Go to the Devices and Printers then open. Next click on the yellow bar that turns blue when you put your mouse over it, at the top of the page that says...Windows can display enhanced icon and information from the Internet. Click to change...click it then choose the option to open device installations and settings, then select that option.


This dialog box shows up. I made these changes and hit save. I did it this way so that i can pick the exact location of the driver with the hope that Windows won't search the web and install something unwanted. Apply the change and hit save.



This is when i plugged my cable in and the dialog box showed that the driver did not install correctly, so i canceled it. Next i went to the control panel and opened the Divice Manager found the new device that i just plugged in, it should have a yellow question mark by it. Then you can expand the Ports(COM & LPT) . If you followed my way of doing the driver update. NOTE: if you followed Tom's way the Drivers should be installed all ready.

Open the control panel. Now you can check to see if the drivers are installed correctly.


Then open the Device manager. Find the ports (COM & LPT) Double click it to open then double click the USB Serial Port to get to the properties. Note: The cable must be plugged in. Now proceed with the driver update from this window if you are following my steps. You can also now see if the Drivers installed correctly. (with Tom's method).


These are the Drivers as of 11-24-2010. Click on Driver details.


And these are the drivers that are installed on my Windows 7 Ultimate after a format and reinstall.


These are the port settings that are recommended. I have used the defaults that install with the USB-FTDI drivers and
these and found both worked, but these settings transfer faster for me.


This next shot is the advanced tab, these are set by the drivers when they are installed.


These are the drivers that should be installed for the USB Serial Converter, open the control panel and expand the usb controllers.








As for the hooking up to the bike and PC, this is what i tried when i first hooked up after the fresh install of Windows.

1.PC fully booted then opened TuneECU unchecked the auto connect button.
2.Plugged the cable into the PC then the bike.
3.Turned the ignition on then hit the connect button in the software.

Easy as riding a bike...
Was having a hard time with the USB driver until I found this. Thanks for posting
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