TuneECU for 990 - got tunes?

[Dusty]

On the way.... from brrap at hotmail.

[Tom-Hamburg]

Hi,

Post it, I have read it, I find it's good and helpful.

BR, Tom

Originally Posted by Dusty

.....Just wondering if there is a need for me to post this here or start a new thread or just forget it.

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by Tom-Hamburg

Hi,

Post it, I have read it, I find it's good and helpful.

BR, Tom

Thanks. Here it is...


I am putting together some screenshots of the TuneECU software install locations and Driver details for those that might have problems with Windows 7 OS.
After looking the tutorial over and over i see that i missed a few screen shots, but i hope i covered enough that most will get it.

I did this just after a new install of the OS. With .net framework 3.5 that came with the software. I did do the security updates for .net 3.5
I was having problems getting things to work on my laptop that had a fairly fresh install of Windows 7 with net framework 4.0

Hope it might help someone.

Cheers...


First get the software and drivers fron the TuneECU site..

I just put them on the desktop for now to be extracted to the directories that you will create.

The next shots are my file locations that i unzipped. This has been working for me.
TuneECU in C:\ program files, you can see location on top address bar.


My driver location. Notice i put my ECUtunes folder, as instructed...


This is what my unzipped Driver folder looks like.


Note from Tom at TuneECU... he suggested to unhook the Internet cable and you don't have to make the changes i did below, to keep Windows from getting drivers from the web.

But this is how I did mine.
After the files are in the proper folders. The first thing i did was find how to shut down windows from going to the web for Device Drivers, so this is how i got there. Note: You can still get device drivers from the web but this stops the windows wizard from doing it.

Open the control panel. Notice i have my folder set to view large icons, i can navigate it better.


Go to the Devices and Printers then open. Next click on the yellow bar that turns blue when you put your mouse over it, at the top of the page that says...Windows can display enhanced icon and information from the Internet. Click to change...click it then choose the option to open device installations and settings, then select that option.


This dialog box shows up. I made these changes and hit save. I did it this way so that i can pick the exact location of the driver with the hope that Windows won't search the web and install something unwanted. Apply the change and hit save.



This is when i plugged my cable in and the dialog box showed that the driver did not install correctly, so i canceled it. Next i went to the control panel and opened the Divice Manager found the new device that i just plugged in, it should have a yellow question mark by it. Then you can expand the Ports(COM & LPT) . If you followed my way of doing the driver update. NOTE: if you followed Tom's way the Drivers should be installed all ready.

Open the control panel. Now you can check to see if the drivers are installed correctly.


Then open the Device manager. Find the ports (COM & LPT) Double click it to open then double click the USB Serial Port to get to the properties. Note: The cable must be plugged in. Now proceed with the driver update from this window if you are following my steps. You can also now see if the Drivers installed correctly. (with Tom's method).


These are the Drivers as of 11-24-2010. Click on Driver details.


And these are the drivers that are installed on my Windows 7 Ultimate after a format and reinstall.


These are the port settings that are recommended. I have used the defaults that install with the USB-FTDI drivers and
these and found both worked, but these settings transfer faster for me.


This next shot is the advanced tab, these are set by the drivers when they are installed.


These are the drivers that should be installed for the USB Serial Converter, open the control panel and expand the usb controllers.








As for the hooking up to the bike and PC, this is what i tried when i first hooked up after the fresh install of Windows.

1.PC fully booted then opened TuneECU unchecked the auto connect button.
2.Plugged the cable into the PC then the bike.
3.Turned the ignition on then hit the connect button in the software.

Easy as riding a bike...

[tahoeacr]

Originally Posted by Tom-Hamburg

Hi,

Post it, I have read it, I find it's good and helpful.

BR, Tom

Great stuff here. Thanks for the effort. Any chance you have this for the new 2009+ Husabergs? They run the Keihin ECU also.

Thanks for all your help.

[Tom-Hamburg]

Hi,
It's best to ask directly to the programmer (Alain), the contact address you find on our website www.tuneecu.com

BR, Tom

Originally Posted by tahoeacr

Great stuff here. Thanks for the effort. Any chance you have this for the new 2009+ Husabergs? They run the Keihin ECU also.

Thanks for all your help.

[teti]

help and explanation, in test mode not shows me the temperature and the left are desabilitados panels?

How can you correct the velocimetro 4% error?

the electroventilador as it is called in tuneecu?

Thank you

esto OK ?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us



ayuda y explicacion ,

en modo test no me muestra la temperatura y los paneles de la izquierda estan desabilitados ?

se puede corregir el velocimetro el error del 4% ?

el electroventilador como se denomina en tuneecu ?

gracias

[shiskowd]

This afternoon I successfully connected TuneECU to my 2010 990 ABS (non-R) and pulled down the map (KM601US0902001Map.hex). I emailed to Tom for posting on the TuneECU sites. Note to non 'R' owners - the diagnostic connector is tucked near the ABS unit - access by removing cover (two screws in the tool storage cavity).

Curiously, the only difference between the 'R' map (KM601US0902002Map.hex) and the non-R map is the position of the 2nd Throttle at the upper right of the map. At 6500 RPM the 2nd throttle starts to back off - I suspect that's where the 8% extra HP shows for the 'R'.



My bike with the stock map works great - experienced none of the fueling issues I've seen discussed on the various forums. Late this fall I installed a set of Leo Vince's and performed the 15 minute idle reset after installation. The bike is even smoother and rev's more readily from low RPM. I'll try the 'R' map when the snow disappears many months from now...

Great tool for self-maintaining a fuel injected ride. Thanks Alain & Tom!

[Tom-Hamburg]

Hola, teti


Pruebas y ajustes:

En este modo, solo los 3 pequeños indicadores del panel están activos, mostrando el valor del vacío de la admisión (Presión Absoluta del colector) del correspondiente cilindro (solo en la ECU Keihin), proporcionando así los valores de referencia para sincronizar la apertura de las válvulas de mariposa (acelerador).

Todos los otros sensores están deshabilitados.

- (En la columna de abajo a la izquierda) Podemos testear (8) componentes de la moto (excepto KTM), el test tarda aproximadamente 10 segundos.

Por favor, lea el manual

Saludos, Tom


Hi teti,

Tests and Adjustments

in this mode, only 3 small dials of the dashboard are active, providing the value of the vacuum intake (Manifold Absolute Pressure) of the corresponding cylinder (Keihin only), thus providing reference values for synchronising butterfly valve (throttle) opening. All other sensors are disabled.

- (lower left column) Tests (8) certain components of the bike (except KTM), the test takes about 10 seconds.

Please read the manual


BR, Tom

Originally Posted by teti

ayuda y explicacion ,
en modo test no me muestra la temperatura y los paneles de la izquierda estan desabilitados ?
se puede corregir el velocimetro el error del 4% ?
el electroventilador como se denomina en tuneecu ?
gracias

[teti]

Originally Posted by Tom-Hamburg

Hola, teti


Pruebas y ajustes:

En este modo, solo los 3 pequeños indicadores del panel están activos, mostrando el valor del vacío de la admisión (Presión Absoluta del colector) del correspondiente cilindro (solo en la ECU Keihin), proporcionando así los valores de referencia para sincronizar la apertura de las válvulas de mariposa (acelerador).

Todos los otros sensores están deshabilitados.

- (En la columna de abajo a la izquierda) Podemos testear (8) componentes de la moto (excepto KTM), el test tarda aproximadamente 10 segundos.

Por favor, lea el manual


Hi teti,

Tests and Adjustments

in this mode, only 3 small dials of the dashboard are active, providing the value of the vacuum intake (Manifold Absolute Pressure) of the corresponding cylinder (Keihin only), thus providing reference values for synchronising butterfly valve (throttle) opening. All other sensors are disabled.

- (lower left column) Tests (8) certain components of the bike (except KTM), the test takes about 10 seconds.

Please read the manual


BR, Tom

-----------------------------------------------------------------
If I read the manual but eagerness and desesperacion lei without reading, jaja

I am very grateful to you for providing this and studying and reading in several forums to achieve the best performance of our bikes.

I have many doubts but I don't want to bother with all together and once we will slowly learning.

would be good to create a tutorial with the values of all sensors to check if this all ok


enormously grateful and greetings carefully

teti
------------------------------------------------------------------
si lei el manual pero en el afan y desesperacion lei sin leer, jaja

estoy muy agradecido a ustedes por brindar esto y estudiando y leyendo en varios foros para lograr el mejor rendimiento de nuestras motos.

tengo muchas dudas pero no quiero molestar con todo junto y de una sola vez de a poco iremos aprendiendo.

seria bueno crear un tutorial con los valores de todos los sensores para chequear si esta todo ok


enormemente agradecido y saludos atentamente

teti

[grinns]

Originally Posted by Dusty

Thanks,... ya it's going to be a a while before i can go for a ride...

I looked at my TPS voltage again today and it was at 7 cold and 6.6 warm, so that is a bit off.

Also looked at the TB's while running and they seemed to be 380 on the front and 370 on the rear cylinder, about 10 points difference at idle. When reved up and held to 3000 rpm they went up to 400 with the rear one now about 7 point higher? Hmm.

Well at least i have a few months to get familiar with the software.

I've noticed the switch between the F and L maps seems all over the place on the different maps, this looks like a place to that needs further investigating and testing.



Also would like to welcome Tom and Alain, and say thank you.

Mine is like 70 off...

[twodollardoug]

if your having trouble with disconnections, try plugging your laptop into the wall with your ac adapter. worked like a charm for me. thanks for the tip bikyto

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by grinns

Mine is like 70 off...

Thanks...


I also found that having a good charger hooked up to the bike is a good idea, my trickle charger didn't keep up.

[bikyto]

Originally Posted by mrbubblehead

if your having trouble with disconnections, try plugging your laptop into the wall with your ac adapter. worked like a charm for me. thanks for the tip

This applies especially for people using netbooks great idea!
But it might apply to laptops if your laptop is setup in Power Saving Mode once unplugged from your power/adapter. USB ports voltage is throttled based on various factors and triggers disconnections for some people.

Still couldn't find the white phone Mrbubblehead! (inside joke)

[grinns]

Originally Posted by mrbubblehead

if your having trouble with disconnections, try plugging your laptop into the wall with your ac adapter. worked like a charm for me. thanks for the tip bikyto

In device manager windows may be set to manage the power settings of the cable. I can check next time I go in the garage. You can change this setting pretty easily.

Note: At work I am diagnosing a problem with a FTDI USB to Serial cable. I noticed in the above pictures the driver is not the current one released by FTDI. My experience with the older driver is that it has issues going in and coming out of standby in windows. I believe I am using 2.8.2 at work. I have not tested this driver set with TuneECU. I don't plan on testing it either because everything is working great with my current configuration.

[CrazyD]

I lost my keys from my KTM Supermoto990 R and i just ordered the ignition lock that came with 2 black keys and 1 orange card.

The ktm dealer told me to switch the orange key on and off and that for both keys the same steps, but i still dont get the bike to start. i checked for errors with the TuneECU and i got an error that the pc lost communication with RCU. what is RCU could you please tell me?
And how do i reprogram the immobilizer? i need a special program for it? A sort of diagnostic tool especially for KTM, because the TuneECU can't program the immobilizer

Please help me out, i will appreciate your help ALOT!

Regards,
CrazyD