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Old 05-26-2013, 11:32 AM   #2191
Irideeverything
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Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 46
It's fixed !!!!!

Amen....

Got my hands on a cable, didn't fix it when I put the stock map on and did an adaptation. The map on there was the same as the stock one.

Ended up taking the throttle bodies completely off, turned them over and YUCK!!! Never seen a sticky ethanol mess quite that bad.

I got this bike in January with 4600 miles on it, so it must have sat quite a bit. I had already cleaned the nest out of the inside if the air box when I did the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and oil change.

Odo turned 7600 today on the test ride, so I put 3k on it so far,most pretty happy, some I questioned selling the thing...

So the bottom of the butterflies and throttle body tubes were caked, as was the inside of the intake on the heads.

I think what may have fixed this (IMO) was the 4 brass air jets, 2 per cylinder that have hoses connected to electronics, so I assume these sense or flow. They were all pretty much clogged, and the intake track above them was caked with sticky residue as well. I think when I ran stuff like sea foam it was desolving ans rinsing the residue right down onto their jets and further clogging them. What a mess.

I soaked the 4 air jets in lacquer thinner for a few hours and spent the better part of an hour cleaning them. The clear thinner looked like chicken broth when I was done.....

The throttle bodies were also cleaned well, 3 cans of carb cleaner, a tooth brush, some scotch bright, and air..

While on the bench I adjusted theTPS from .67 cold to .64 cold, ended up at .59 hot after the 15 min run.

I also spent some time last night cleaning up the intake track inside the head. Using a dental tool and shop vac I played dentist and scrapped ( it just chipped off)all the crud and sucked up whati could. I mostly did what was above the jets so I didn't get a repeat performance and re clog those air jets..

Watching the Indy 500 now, going back out for a ride after the race and before Charlotte starts. Tomorrow we RIDE!!!!!!

I learned a lot the past few days, thanks to everyone for all the great ideas. I think I'll keep the bike now, sorry....(but the VFR is still for sale!)

Joe
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:34 PM   #2192
MAXVERT
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If you haven't already, you might want to reroute the crankcase vent.
Vent it outside the airbox. The stock routing can put quite a lot of oil in the air box, most likely causing all the gunk in the TB's.
Especially if the PO had a tendency to over fill the oil.

Good work

Twist it, Max
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:25 AM   #2193
Loui€
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Joined: May 2012
Location: PoroWaara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irideeverything View Post
Amen....

Got my hands on a cable, didn't fix it when I put the stock map on and did an adaptation. The map on there was the same as the stock one.

Ended up taking the throttle bodies completely off, turned them over and YUCK!!! Never seen a sticky ethanol mess quite that bad.

I got this bike in January with 4600 miles on it, so it must have sat quite a bit. I had already cleaned the nest out of the inside if the air box when I did the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and oil change.

Odo turned 7600 today on the test ride, so I put 3k on it so far,most pretty happy, some I questioned selling the thing...

So the bottom of the butterflies and throttle body tubes were caked, as was the inside of the intake on the heads.

I think what may have fixed this (IMO) was the 4 brass air jets, 2 per cylinder that have hoses connected to electronics, so I assume these sense or flow. They were all pretty much clogged, and the intake track above them was caked with sticky residue as well. I think when I ran stuff like sea foam it was desolving ans rinsing the residue right down onto their jets and further clogging them. What a mess.

I soaked the 4 air jets in lacquer thinner for a few hours and spent the better part of an hour cleaning them. The clear thinner looked like chicken broth when I was done.....

The throttle bodies were also cleaned well, 3 cans of carb cleaner, a tooth brush, some scotch bright, and air..

While on the bench I adjusted theTPS from .67 cold to .64 cold, ended up at .59 hot after the 15 min run.

I also spent some time last night cleaning up the intake track inside the head. Using a dental tool and shop vac I played dentist and scrapped ( it just chipped off)all the crud and sucked up whati could. I mostly did what was above the jets so I didn't get a repeat performance and re clog those air jets..

Watching the Indy 500 now, going back out for a ride after the race and before Charlotte starts. Tomorrow we RIDE!!!!!!

I learned a lot the past few days, thanks to everyone for all the great ideas. I think I'll keep the bike now, sorry....(but the VFR is still for sale!)

Joe
Great job!
good to know, that this ethanol-bisnes is hoax, really. we need gas for motors, not the alcohol - that we drink...

******

Quote:
If you haven't already, you might want to reroute the crankcase vent.
Vent it outside the airbox. The stock routing can put quite a lot of oil in the air box, most likely causing all the gunk in the TB's.
Especially if the PO had a tendency to over fill the oil.
where and how shall I lead the hose, I mean, do I need some filter into it's end? I don't want any dirt gettin' into motor...


L
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:33 AM   #2194
RoundOz
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Joined: Jun 2009
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Ok. Call me lazy

But extremely busy might be a better description. Slowly dragging my 09 Adv out of hibernation and getting ready for a trip in a couple of weeks. Since installing the 2-1 last year I have been fairly happy with the state of tune compared to stock. Response down low is razor sharp but I still have the original throttle cam and I have gotten used to it on the road. There is still a little of the hunting at 3-4000 rpm but nowhere near as bad as it was with the OEM pipes and all the pollution crap hooked up. The bike satsifies my need for power and smoothish running most of the time but has never tried to loft the front wheel under power, even with fairly spirited use of the clutch, though whether this is normal depends on whose version you read. Fuel economy has also been around 40-42 mpg with a steady hand, no wind and state highway speeds.

So why mess with TuneEcu...? Well, that is why it has taken me this long to bother. I do like the idea of having it run perfectly and I have read this thread with great interest all along. I might be riding some trickier trails on this next trip and would like to explore how smooth I can make the low end.

So, I have finally gotten around to hooking up with TuneEcu today. Can anyone point me back to the summary pages I seem to remember reading ( yes I have read through this entire thread, just not recently ) or answer these first questions:

The battery voltage was showing as 11.9... I had just hooked up the trickle charger after it setting for maybe 2 months. I decided not to read too much into what I am seeing until it comes up a bit. What is a good voltage to have showing on TuneEcu before I start messing with maps?

There was an error code P1650 ( lost comms with RCU or immobilizer malfunction )...any clues what this means? It cleared ok.

The TPS was showing 0.72 with the engine cold and a low battery. Is there reason to adjust it or should I wait for the battery to charge and warm up the engine before tinkering?

I was going to try the Powertripp wings map...have read good things about its smoothness...I have the stock air filter setup. My pipe is probably more open than a Wings...Remus Revolution with the dB killer removed. Will this be much of a problem?

Any help or directions to a summary thread would be appreciated... I would like to spend hours, days messing with this and researching but I have about eight hundred other things to accomplish today.
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RoundOz screwed with this post 06-08-2013 at 10:39 AM
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:19 PM   #2195
RoundOz
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: West Nebraska
Oddometer: 980
Went ahead without y'all

Left the TPS where it was for now. It came down to 0.68 with the engine warmed up. Saw that my TBs are pretty well dead on, at least according to my pressure sensors. Saved my standard 09 map and decided to try out the 2011/12 R map. Downloaded it ok, fired up fine and ( just my imagination ) sounds even friskier blipping the throttle than it did...forgot how open my pipe is.... Tried to use reset adaptation but failed...only read afterwards that it is a double click (doh)! I did the 15 min idle, which hopefully after loading a new map accomplishes the same thing.
Good to go for a test ride? Yeah, after I reassemble everything else on the bike I have apart right now...
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:02 PM   #2196
tacosupreme
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Location: Pendleton, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoundOz View Post
Left the TPS where it was for now. It came down to 0.68 with the engine warmed up. Saw that my TBs are pretty well dead on, at least according to my pressure sensors. Saved my standard 09 map and decided to try out the 2011/12 R map. Downloaded it ok, fired up fine and ( just my imagination ) sounds even friskier blipping the throttle than it did...forgot how open my pipe is.... Tried to use reset adaptation but failed...only read afterwards that it is a double click (doh)! I did the 15 min idle, which hopefully after loading a new map accomplishes the same thing.
Good to go for a test ride? Yeah, after I reassemble everything else on the bike I have apart right now...
Ya the timing on the R map is a little different, it's pretty noisy compared to most other maps.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:31 AM   #2197
BMacW650
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Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 742
TPS sensor

I accidentally turn loose the adjustment screw on the second TPS sensor on the back. (instead of the front).

Is there a way to check and adjust it to spec? ( I have TuneECU and the cable).
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:44 PM   #2198
gefr
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Location: East Med, Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650 View Post
I accidentally turn loose the adjustment screw on the second TPS sensor on the back. (instead of the front).
The TPS is only one, positioned on the right side of the throttle bodies, at the front one.

Cheers.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:19 AM   #2199
BMacW650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
The TPS is only one, positioned on the right side of the throttle bodies, at the front one.
Cheers.
Thanks, but that's not my problem.
There is an exact same sensor on the second throttle body. I read it's used for the stepper motor to control it when the front TPS picks up throttle input.

I accidentally, remove the nuts on that sensor, and have moved it a bit. I'm asking if that's a problem, and if I can use the TuneECU program to adjust it back to spec.

My front TPS sensor is adjusted correctly .56v to 3.7v.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:06 PM   #2200
Dagwood_55
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: The Ozarks
Oddometer: 1,318
07 with 2 to 1 Remus exhaust
CPR Rottweiler
SAS blocked off
Smog/canister/etc removed
Hologan football butterflies

Anyone with similar setup got a map that works well??

Or suggest one...

Not all that interested in extra HP, except on the
low end. I need more grunt there, and I want better
fuel economy.

Thanks,
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:23 PM   #2201
Themastermike
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dag

Good luck. I have a map that ripped on the cpr. Set up.

Perfect tip I got to the part of good fuel economy.

35 mpg.

It took it to the rev. Limiter effortlessly.

Good luck
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:28 PM   #2202
BMacW650
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Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 742
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
The TPS is only one, positioned on the right side of the throttle bodies, at the front one.
Cheers.
Thanks, but that's not my problem.
There is an exact same sensor on the second throttle body. I read it's used for the stepper motor to control it when the front TPS picks up throttle input.

I accidentally, remove the nuts on that sensor, and have moved it a bit. I'm asking if that's a problem, and if I can use the TuneECU program to adjust it back to spec.

My front TPS sensor is adjusted correctly .56v to 3.7v.
I added a picture to make sure my problem is clearly stated. If anyone can help me on this I'd really appreciated it.

Does this sensor only need to have a reference position/voltage and the absolute voltage is irrelevant?


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Old 06-11-2013, 10:32 AM   #2203
JTXT
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I don't think you can get the voltage reading for that rear TPS from Tune ECU but there is an adapter plug you can buy from Suzuki that has a pigtail on it so you can read the voltage of the sensor with the bike running using a voltmeter. Here is a link were it is discussed in KTMTALK -

http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtop...hl=tps+setting

You can also make your own TPS setting tool for about $8 from this thread. This tool supplies its own voltage so you can set your TPS on the bench if needed. I have made one to use on my 405 XCW and it works great -

http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtop...hl=radio+shack

I'm not sure what the voltage should be on the rear TPS but you might want to try setting it to the same spec as the front TPS.

Also, you might want to try to start a brand new thread with this problem, you might get a better response there than at the end of a super long Tune ECU thread.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:35 AM   #2204
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Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 742
Thanks you so much for your answer! I will look into these options.

After reading 145 pages. I was able to find the following info buried somewhere.


edit....from the KTM LC8 repair man... TPS values for the 2nd Throttle...
Measure between the black (ground) and the blue (floating positive), adjust to get 1.0v at closed and 4.3v at fully open. These are approximate values, per KTM.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JTXT View Post
I don't think you can get the voltage reading for that rear TPS from Tune ECU but there is an adapter plug you can buy from Suzuki that has a pigtail on it so you can read the voltage of the sensor with the bike running using a voltmeter. Here is a link were it is discussed in KTMTALK -

http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtop...hl=tps+setting

You can also make your own TPS setting tool for about $8 from this thread. This tool supplies its own voltage so you can set your TPS on the bench if needed. I have made one to use on my 405 XCW and it works great -

http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtop...hl=radio+shack

I'm not sure what the voltage should be on the rear TPS but you might want to try setting it to the same spec as the front TPS.

Also, you might want to try to start a brand new thread with this problem, you might get a better response there than at the end of a super long Tune ECU thread.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:30 PM   #2205
Zuber
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That 1.0v spec sounds like one I found in the 990 workshop manual.

I just found another spec from the KTM Electrical and Electronic manual>

With the engine warmed to 80 deg C (175 deg F), the 2nd throttle sensor should read 0.3 v at zero degrees of angle, 4.5v at full throttle.
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