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Old 07-07-2014, 12:12 PM   #2821
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
Hey ProCycle - did you hook up your LM-2 to input RPM, Vacuum and TPS?

Looks like the MAP and TPS sensor is easy, it's just 0-5V.

But, the RPM looks more difficult. No way to use an inductive clamp. Can you just wrap one of the analog wires around the hot wire going to the coil?
I just teed in to a primary side coil wire. worked perfectly.

Well, it worked the second time. I had to switch from one primary wire to the other to get a signal. Sorry, can't tell you which color wire was the winner.
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:23 PM   #2822
TheRog
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A tune ecu connected cable

So I need to tune the 990, maybe change the tps sensors.
I am looking thru the thread for the part # for the 2011 tps sensors separate from t.b.
If anyone near sacramento knows how to tune the 990, and has the tune ecu software can get as much free beer as can be carried in the ktm hard bags!
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:13 AM   #2823
JoeMongo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRog View Post
So I need to tune the 990, maybe change the tps sensors.
I am looking thru the thread for the part # for the 2011 tps sensors separate from t.b.
If anyone near sacramento knows how to tune the 990, and has the tune ecu software can get as much free beer as can be carried in the ktm hard bags!

Well, I can't actually tune the bike as I don't have a dyno. I do have tuneECU and a cable though, but I'm 90 minutes from Sac.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:07 AM   #2824
renogeorge
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I am certainly no expert on this stuff, although I am learning slowly. My advice is to get the cable for $60 or so and download the FREE Tune ECU software. If nothing else, you can use is as a code reader/diagnostic.

Loading maps is really pretty easy, even for an old guy like me. Lots of maps available free on the net. Trick is going to be finding one that works for your bike/exhaust/intake combo.

Modifying maps is also pretty easy. BUT diagnosing without a wide band is not very precise. And knowing WELL where/what to change takes a lot more knowledge than I have. I have been happy making some minor mods. I am convinced I have a much better running bike due to the mods.

Sure beats opening up carbs and changing brass, once you get over the initial learning curve.....

FWIW
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:35 AM   #2825
JJMethulski
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Help Needed ECU locked ?

Hi !

After reading serveral days about tune ecu and the software´s capabilities i decided yesterday to give it a try. ordered the connector combo and downloaded tuneecu 2.5.5., ftdi drivers directly from ftdi website. win 7 64bit laptop and the bike.
i just wanted to get rid of that quirky throttle response by downloading the standard 2006 akrapovic map.

my bike is a 2006 990 adventure, eu-model. to make it short, after connecting the bike to tune ecu i was able to export the map from the ecu, which turned out to be the standard 2006 map with standard exhausts (i have acras mounted with cat-converter). after saving the standard map, i opened the acra map in tune ecu and disabled sls and downloaded the map to the ecu.
download was successful. turned off ignition, disconnected ecu and turned on ignition again, nothing happened.
fi light was on, rev counter wasnt initialized, temp. bar switched back and forth from 100% to 0%.
i did not try to start the bike, but decided to reinstall the orig. map. and thats where im still on....tuneecu does not reconnect to the ecu.
measured cable and software, but no connection possible.

does the ecu have a "recovery function" i can try ? or will i have to spend lots of money at the ktm dealer´s on bying a new ecu ?
what else could i try ?

thanks in advance, greetings from austria !
stefan
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:38 AM   #2826
Alleycatdad
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:19 AM   #2827
rossguzzi
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Battery tender on while doing mods.
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:41 AM   #2828
renogeorge
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And plug in lap top power supply. Try manual "connect" in TuneECU. Try different USB port. Unplug "bad gas" connection to use that map

Good luck
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:23 PM   #2829
dgjackson40
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Disconnect

"download was successful. turned off ignition, disconnected ecu and turned on ignition again, nothing happened."

When you indicate "disconnected" was that by unplugging or hitting the "disconnect" selection on TuneECU?

Probably should hit the "disconnect" selection on TuneECU before turning off the ignition and unplugging the cable. I seem to remember reading that somewhere. Having said that I have shut things down several ways and eventually get TuneECU to find the ECU again.

Lately I have had trouble with TuneECU initializing. I frequently get the "comm port cannot be found". Eventually it will find the ECU mostly if I hook up the cable then switch on ignition then start up TuneECU from scratch. This just may be my laptop and not the software. Cant be sure.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:49 PM   #2830
Zuber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgjackson40 View Post
"download was successful. turned off ignition, disconnected ecu and turned on ignition again, nothing happened."

When you indicate "disconnected" was that by unplugging or hitting the "disconnect" selection on TuneECU?

Probably should hit the "disconnect" selection on TuneECU before turning off the ignition and unplugging the cable. I seem to remember reading that somewhere. Having said that I have shut things down several ways and eventually get TuneECU to find the ECU again.

Lately I have had trouble with TuneECU initializing. I frequently get the "comm port cannot be found". Eventually it will find the ECU mostly if I hook up the cable then switch on ignition then start up TuneECU from scratch. This just may be my laptop and not the software. Cant be sure.
A tip from a few pages back, or from the 690 TuneECU thread...

If you have a problem connecting with the bike's ECU, read a map for your type of bike into TuneECU first. Then try to connect to the the bike.
This will preset TuneECU and speed up the connections.
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:30 AM   #2831
Defaultgateway
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Tach signal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
Hey ProCycle - did you hook up your LM-2 to input RPM, Vacuum and TPS?

Looks like the MAP and TPS sensor is easy, it's just 0-5V.

But, the RPM looks more difficult. No way to use an inductive clamp. Can you just wrap one of the analog wires around the hot wire going to the coil?
Zube, no problem. My comments are for 2011 abs 990 adv, from the ktm manual, the tach signal to the tach/instrument cluster is driven from the ECU by a 0 to 9.5 vvolt dc square wave of about 50% duty cycle, about 15 to 150 Hz. The frequency is proportional to the RPM. Looking at the wiring diagram, it's connector CO/34 pin 14 or connector ED/32 pin 4 at instrument cluster(your choice, same signal).
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:16 AM   #2832
Zuber
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Thanks for the connection tips. I'm currently using an old LM1 and only 'eyeballing' the results using the tach, fuel mix readouts from the LM1 and a vacuum gauge. A dual LM-2 is on order and then I'll fully hook it up, after the KTM Adventure Rally later this year.

After about 4 days of 20 minute - test, remap, download sessions - the bike runs much, much better. I focused on the 1800-4200 rpm area for smoother running and better mileage. The bike is a 2010 990 Adv, with a single Akro muffler with the quiet tip and stock airbox. All the mods I needed to do were to LEAN out the maps, even below the stock map. The PowerTripp map for single exhaust that I started with was very rich. Often in the 11/1 to 12/1 mixture area. Going to the stock values for fuel maps still had it in the 12-13/1 area.

The result is the mpg's are up from 38 to the 42-44mpg range. Vibration is down a lot, it feels more like a triple now than a twin. No flat spots, no bucking or surging. Even going down steep hills I can now give it 'a little throttle' and it will smoothly pick up speed. I find that I will run tight roads in the next higher gear and the throttle response is great.

I followed ProCycle's and other tips. Turned off the O2 sensors. Turned the F-L switch to zero and mapped the F1/F2 maps. Then turned the F-L up to max and worked on the L1/L2 maps. I tried to get close to a low 14/1 mix for small throttle openings (6-10% open) in the 3000-4200 rpm area. I did have a lean spot on one cylinder while the other was very rich. Above 4500 rpm I left it alone, it is still too rich in the 12/1 mix area.

The LM-1 is only a single O2 sensor, so it was a bit of a pain to hook up on one pipe and map one cylinder. Then move it to the other pipe and work on the other cylinder. But, it worked.

Bottom line is that I encourage you all to pick up a cheap wideband and go for it. It takes time, way more than a shop could put in, but it is not difficult. The results are worth it.
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:23 PM   #2833
JoeMongo
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Wicked

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
snip, snip, ....
Bottom line is that I encourage you all to pick up a cheap wideband and go for it. It takes time, way more than a shop could put in, but it is not difficult. The results are worth it.
Yeahhhhh, I'm very tempted to pull the trigger on a wideband, considering that a few hours with a dyno dood here where I live will cost me more than a fully loaded two probe wideband logger with a bunch of bells and whistles. I do like the idea of thoroughly tuning all the maps, instead of just permanently setting all the F-L switches to zero.

I'm trying to resist for a few days, just to see if the urge fades long enough for me find something else to spend my bux on.
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:47 PM   #2834
renogeorge
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Damn you guys! Just when I have almost convinced myself that my primitive re map is good enough, you start this sh*t.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:30 PM   #2835
Zuber
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Just a warning. Innovate has three models of LM-2 wide band O2 gauge. Low ender with one O2 probe, a middle with one O2 probe and some other cables, then the high ender with two O2 probes, linear inputs and an OBDII interface. I thought they were all the same, so I got the low ender and an extra O2 probe. It has two inputs on the back for O2 sensors, right?

Guess what, only the high end model with the useless OBDII interface has the electronics to support two O2 probes! GDITH Why would they bother to make two boxes? Why would they bother to put a second O2 input on the back if it does nothing? I had to return the LM-2 box and wait for my credit before I can order the high end model with the extra $175 OBDII interface that I'll never use. Now I have two extra linear input cables and an extra O2 sensor too, another $150.

I asked their Sales dept if they had one without the OBDII, or could they swap just my box out. Answer: No.
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