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Old 08-10-2014, 01:41 PM   #2911
Dusty
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Location: Bismarck
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It is impossible to tune with the O2s on, there are constantly trying to maintain 14.7 and they do the job pretty well.

Yes it adapts with the 02s on... off, not so sure about that.

I almost always put at least a 100 miles on a change i do to a map... unless i see something i don't like before i get out of town i can run home and make my changes and still not blow away a good day for a ride. I can tell very fast if the changes or new map if it is a go or not.
Try that with carbs...
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Old 08-10-2014, 01:50 PM   #2912
Dusty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoundOz View Post
Dusty
Remind me what year model and map you are running. Sounds great.
07 arkos stock air box, full ectomies.

The map was the 1/2 arko with my changes to the ignition and F/L switch, also leaned out F2 and L2 sections.
Just did 100 loop with the 02s off and dropped about 2.5 gallons per mile
This map will run in the mid 14s on the front and mid 13s on the rear with the 02s off cruising.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:14 AM   #2913
Cowtowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That's what I ended up doing. One issue with doing this is even when you change the F-L switch as far as it will go to the 'L' bias the fueling is still heavily effected by the F table. That means you have to switch back and forth between mapping F and mapping L to zero in on a setup that works well.
Good information. I guess this is the interpolation between the F and L.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:18 AM   #2914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ÖÖ. View Post
And what comes to comparing these logged values to AFR. I have only used my head to log the AFR. It's not as refined method as someting like LM-2 would be. But you can still quite easily see what happens to the MAP value when you ride in different situations.

Usually I have done short ride with plenty or repeats of the non working situation. Here is an example:
Code:
302606#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3588#Rpm

302855#ATP#Throttle Position#3.53#%

303106#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#445#Hpa

303387#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#458#Hpa

303634#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3604#Rpm

303883#ATP#Throttle Position#3.53#%

304131#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#443#Hpa

304381#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#458#Hpa

304642#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3628#Rpm

304892#ATP#Throttle Position#3.92#%

305141#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#452#Hpa

305391#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#468#Hpa

305642#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3609#Rpm

305905#ATP#Throttle Position#4.31#%

306153#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#453#Hpa

306424#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#468#Hpa

306672#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3645#Rpm

306923#ATP#Throttle Position#4.31#%

307184#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#453#Hpa

307432#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#466#Hpa

307683#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3651#Rpm

307933#ATP#Throttle Position#4.31#%

308183#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#458#Hpa

308453#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#473#Hpa

308724#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3693#Rpm

308972#ATP#Throttle Position#6.27#%

309222#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#531#Hpa

309472#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#654#Hpa

309733#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#3865#Rpm

309983#ATP#Throttle Position#27.45#%

310232#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#742#Hpa

310483#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#733#Hpa

310732#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#4283#Rpm

310983#ATP#Throttle Position#31.76#%

311233#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#784#Hpa

311483#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#759#Hpa

311733#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#4662#Rpm

311982#ATP#Throttle Position#20.00#%

312242#PM1M#Manifold Pressure 1#575#Hpa

312492#PM2M#Manifold Pressure 2#538#Hpa

312742#RPMMOT#Engine Speed#4787#Rpm
First slow acceleration and then some more throttle. Repeat X times until you have some sort of understanding where the AFR reading was during those tests. Then back to garage and look the log. With TuneEcu modify the map. Download. Repeat.

Most difficult thing is to avoid the local sheriff and keep eyes on the AFR gauge when doing the WOT tests.
I may try it. I suppose if you could turn on an AFR log, then turn on the app and log, then turn both off, and so as you run several logs at different throttle positions and different rpms, you could then match up a little bit by log number and rpm/TP.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:27 AM   #2915
Cowtowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atk_nut View Post
Ok, getting there. I'm looking at the map that's installed.

There are some F-trim values at 4k and below. Also, the O2 is unchecked and the F-L switch values are all 0.

Questions:

1. The F-Trim applies to both cylinders, correct?
2. F2 is the rear?
3. If the F-L values are 0, is it using F or L?
4. Does anybody have a map for a 2010 990 ADV-R, with Akros (inserts out) and a Rottweiler (or similar) free-flowing intake with NO SAI? I just want to do a compare....

EDIT: So what's the difference in the EU and US maps anyways. I did a load and compare of both, and I can't tell the difference.

Thanks.
I'm no expert and don't know answers to all your questions, but:

1. There is separate F trim for each cylinder
2. In KTM, F1 is the rear (in PC-V, F1 is the front)
3. If F/L values are zero, it is running on F tables but apparently there is some interpolation between F and L.
4. I don't know, doesn't seem to be many Adv maps and almost nothing for my year ('07).

Don't know what difference is between EU and US, but differences may include the fact there is no cannister on EU maps. As for the tables you can see in TuneECU, the ones I have checked seem to be the same as far as fuel and ignition goes.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:51 AM   #2916
atk_nut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowtowner View Post
I'm no expert and don't know answers to all your questions, but:

1. There is separate F trim for each cylinder
2. In KTM, F1 is the rear (in PC-V, F1 is the front)
3. If F/L values are zero, it is running on F tables but apparently there is some interpolation between F and L.
4. I don't know, doesn't seem to be many Adv maps and almost nothing for my year ('07).

Don't know what difference is between EU and US, but differences may include the fact there is no cannister on EU maps. As for the tables you can see in TuneECU, the ones I have checked seem to be the same as far as fuel and ignition goes.

Thanks for the reply. I've just come back from a test run with the map on the rottweiler site. I'm pretty happy with that one so far, seems very well behaved and pulls hard. I think it needs some more miles to be sure, but this one may be the one.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:28 AM   #2917
Alex_RO
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Question which might be .. EFI related ?

Hey guys,

got a bit of a weird thing going.. maybe you can help me. The bike runs fine (2006 990Adv, BMC air filter, stock airbox, Akrapovic (2), Akra map with O2 on) and eats a ...reasonable amount of gas for how I use it but.. there's one very annoying thing.

In neutral, the idle stays at around 1450RPM.. If I have the bike in gear, with the clutch entirely disengaged... the idle drops to 1100 RPM. It doesn't kill the engine but it is sort of annoying.

Is this a standard thing or do I have a problem (and if so, anything I should check) ?

Oh yeah, if anyone has a map for the config above with lower fuel consumption (33MPG highway, 22MPG in fat_supermotard_way), I'd LOVE to try it.

Thank you!
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:25 AM   #2918
sweetlou
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Location: Melville, NY
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Quick question,

I'm tuning the current map with small enrichments here and there. I understand I do NOT need to do the 15 min reset after each small change, correct?

I havent been able to find a way to make a change without downloading the entire map to the ECU. As I understand it, when I download, the ECU does a reset, which than I would THINK I would have to do the 15 min idle reset to reestablish baselines.

But I keep reading that no 15 min idle reset is needed with small map changes.

Am I missing a feature where I can change parts of the map without downloading again? I tried making the changes while hooked up and praying they would automatically change the map, but after I unplugged and connected again, the map read was the same as before.

Lou
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:55 AM   #2919
gixxersteph
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idle won't settle

hello collective

I did a quick scan of this thread but did not find any mention of an idle issue that mimics the one I am experiencing.

I uploaded a map that I had used previously and am now having two issues

1) the bike pops and crackles when coming down from 5000 rpm plus in gear - this actually seems to have gone away after a harrowing 20 minute which brings me to

2) the engine will not return from 3500+ RPM for 15 seconds when dis engaging the clutch. in fact, i can accelerate to 4,000 rpm in any desired gear and I have cruise control !!!

Any thoughts?
back round - i used the program to reset all parameters prior to the re-install
is there a box for idle control i overlooked?

thanks in advance
Stephan
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Old 08-16-2014, 01:47 PM   #2920
sweetlou
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Check TPS voltage at idle with bike cold and then warm. My cold voltage is .7v. Adjust throttle cable so the throttle has some slack.
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:02 PM   #2921
gixxersteph
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Thanks Lou

Tried that. Gotta go for a ride to test

Will let you know
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:36 AM   #2922
RoundOz
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I am definitely no expert but you didnt get a reply so I thought I would step in to add my take on this fwiw. Maybe it will prompt someone with real knowledge to jump up and straighten us both out.
The map you are working with on your pc is just that....on your pc. The changes you make however small are part of the entire map that replaces the map in your ecu when you download. The only live thing you can do is monitor sensors.
The 15 min idle is claimed by some to be useless and others to be critical. I believe it re-establishes baselines for how the ecu reads all its sensor inputs...thats why you do it on the center stand etc. I think that these same adjustments are done all the time as you ride the bike but I believe they happen incrementally. ..after a certain mileage has elapsed. Years ago I heard that for efi cars it was 100-150 miles. If i was designing the system i would prompt it to make more frequent changes if base parameters are changing quickly...like riding west from Denver. I do it after a map change or valve adjustment because it makes me feel comfortable that I am prompting the ecu to "reset" itself quicker than a 100 mile ride will. Where I live there are no good roads within 100 miles anyway so its not like I am missing out on much. 15 min. WTF....why not.....I will probably keep doing it until someone proves it is snake oil.
Maybe if you are only making small changes you dont want to reestablish baselines anyway...you would be throwing away all that knowledge the ecu has gained from how you normally ride the bike and the ambient conditions. Maybe this would be more noticeable if you house the bike at 5000 ft but ride between 7-11000 ft...?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlou View Post
Quick question,

I'm tuning the current map with small enrichments here and there. I understand I do NOT need to do the 15 min reset after each small change, correct?

I havent been able to find a way to make a change without downloading the entire map to the ECU. As I understand it, when I download, the ECU does a reset, which than I would THINK I would have to do the 15 min idle reset to reestablish baselines.

But I keep reading that no 15 min idle reset is needed with small map changes.

Am I missing a feature where I can change parts of the map without downloading again? I tried making the changes while hooked up and praying they would automatically change the map, but after I unplugged and connected again, the map read was the same as before.

Lou
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:28 AM   #2923
gixxersteph
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All good on the hunting idle
Throttle cable adjustment was the key

Thanks
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:37 PM   #2924
RoundOz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixxersteph View Post
All good on the hunting idle
Throttle cable adjustment was the key

Thanks
Feedback is always good when problems are solved. Throttle cable adjustment was pointed out to me by the dealer, before I bought my KaTuM, as being one of the main causes for poor running problems on the LC8s..(his opinion at least)...it can only be properly performed by driving that stepper motor closed....although I have to admit I usually just check I have plenty of slack. Lately mine has gotten too slack...time to hit TuneEcu again...
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:06 PM   #2925
mjskier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoundOz View Post
Lately mine has gotten too slack...time to hit TuneEcu again...
Any pointer to a tutorial on using tuneECU to adjust cable/throttle/TPS?
When I installed a map on my SMT, I played a bit with the monitoring and noticed that when my throttle was wide open tuneecu thought I was at 90% open or so.
Not a big deal since I usually ride my bike (SMT) in mid rpm, but I want to eventually set it right.
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