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Old 11-01-2010, 11:02 PM   #16
jetpoweredmonkey OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerCell
For anyone wishing to try the TuneECU software, but unwilling to build the custom cable, I'll be building several that will be available to buy.
Thanks PowerCell! That's mighty big of ya. Thirty bucks is a steal.

I see a couple of folks already talking about uploading their custom Power Commander tunes to their ECU. Great idea. Does anyone have a hosting site where we can start gathering tunes? Or maybe we could get the TuneECu developers to host for us. Maybe a text file for each tune, named the same as the tune file, with a bit of info on what the tune is and where it came from?
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetpoweredmonkey
Or maybe we could get the TuneECu developers to host for us.
They allready are hosting tune files standard and custom
http://www.tomhamburg.net/KTM_Tune_list.html
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:37 AM   #18
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True, but it's hardly a complete list, and all of the tunes look to be from EU model bikes. No idea if those work in USA bikes or not.
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevermind
There are a number of 2010 KTM 990 A's running the 990 R map, mine being one of them. I've been told the 09 tunes may work on the 2010's, but I'm not going to risk confusing or making my ECU inoperative either.

I already have a KTM Tuneboy cable and I went out and plugged in. You get the same kind of stuff you see with the default Tuneboy screen and the ability to download maps. I've downloaded the EU version of the 990R map from the tuneECU site, but I'm not ready to wing it and load that puppy just yet. I'd like a copy of the US map before I go off the deep end...

How is that stock "R" map working out on your non "R"?
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catalina38
How is that stock "R" map working out on your non "R"?
I've got about 300 miles on it so far and no issues. The fuel economy is slightly better, but the jury is still out on seeing if it runs smoother with small throttle openings. Sometimes it is smooth as silk and other times it wants to buck. I want to get out and re-connect the O2 sensors and see if that makes a difference.

Is yours box stock, with O2 sensors connected and secondary butterflies still installed?
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:06 PM   #21
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All stock except for the FMF Q4's. But it was just as good before they were installed.
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:23 AM   #22
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so i saw this statement on another thread and i was wondering what you guys thought about the 2 map theory.


The key for the superduke (also applies to the 990 ADV) is that the ECU has two maps in it- one that runs on RPM and manifold pressure, and a second that operates with RPM and throttle position.

The issue is that the ECU switches from one map to the other at 5-10% throttle, which creates the small throttle opening jerkiness we all hate.

With his software, you can simply set the ECU to operate on the TPS map from 0% throttle at any RPM higher than idle, and eliminate the switch back and forth, map to map, and thus eliminate the jerkiness. That's the theory, anyway, I bought the cable and software but now I need a PC to give it a try (I have a mac). After looking at the data and hearing his experience on the dyno with the 990s, I'm pretty convinced this is going to sort the issues".
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:31 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubblehead
so i saw this statement on another thread and i was wondering what you guys thought about the 2 map theory.


The key for the superduke (also applies to the 990 ADV) is that the ECU has two maps in it- one that runs on RPM and manifold pressure, and a second that operates with RPM and throttle position.

The issue is that the ECU switches from one map to the other at 5-10% throttle, which creates the small throttle opening jerkiness we all hate.

With his software, you can simply set the ECU to operate on the TPS map from 0% throttle at any RPM higher than idle, and eliminate the switch back and forth, map to map, and thus eliminate the jerkiness. That's the theory, anyway, I bought the cable and software but now I need a PC to give it a try (I have a mac). After looking at the data and hearing his experience on the dyno with the 990s, I'm pretty convinced this is going to sort the issues".
I wonder if he's referring to closed loop and open loop. Removing the O2 sensors keeps the ECU in open loop and should eliminate the "two map" issue. In my experience, keeping the bike in open loop mode eliminated lean stutter at small throttle openings, but did not eliminate the herky-jerky nature of power application during small to large(r) throttle transitions.

IMHO, we have a very light, very sensitive throttle. I believe it is not related to the mapping, but to the hand attached to this hair trigger. I've added more resistance to the linkage via throttle cable tightening and with the kaoko and I can get pretty smooth results.

Should I lay off the caffeine for a while or does this make sense?
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:36 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubblehead
so i saw this statement on another thread and i was wondering what you guys thought about the 2 map theory...

It's all true. But Wayne (TuneBoy) is absolutely useless for customer support. And TuneBoy has no more safe guards than TuneECU has (I've bricked my ECU with TuneBoy before). The TuneECU software is supported by a large community of helpful users, has MORE features and controls than TuneBoy, is MORE stable when reading and writing MAPS, and don't forget it's about $500 less expensive (ie - free). When I e-mail Alain, the developer of TuneECU, he gets right back to me... even making changes I request within days. There's just no comparison between the two...

TuneBoy is history now... Wayne knows it and now you do too...

BTW - I was able to recover my ECU after TuneBoy locked it up with the Orginal KTM software... it has a hard recovery feature. And even though I've never had a problem with the TuneECU software, I'm asking Alain to build this recovery feature into the TuneECU software so you'll never have to worry about a failed write. This is a feature that they cannot add to the TuneBoy due to the MAP key that they require (it's how they continue to get your money even after you pay for the software).





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Old 11-04-2010, 11:39 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevermind
I wonder if he's referring to closed loop and open loop...

No, he's referring the the transition point where the ECU switches from the manifold pressure sensors to the throttle position sensor. The TPS is more accurate than the manifold pressure sensor, but does not work well at idle... thus the need for both sensors.

PowerCell screwed with this post 11-04-2010 at 11:59 AM
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:40 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerCell
No, he's referring the the transition point where the ECU switches from the manufold pressure sensors to the throttle position sensor. The TPS is more accurate than the manifold pressure sensor, but does not work well at idle... thus the need for both sensors.
roger that...
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:36 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerCell
No, he's referring the the transition point where the ECU switches from the manifold pressure sensors to the throttle position sensor. The TPS is more accurate than the manifold pressure sensor, but does not work well at idle... thus the need for both sensors.
so ken, do you think it will cure the jerky throttle if we reduce the F-L switch to zero?
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubblehead
so ken, do you think it will cure the jerky throttle if we reduce the F-L switch to zero?

SUre, but it will hunt and stall when it idles...

You need to use the manifold pressure sensors. YOu just need to find a transition smooth transition point. There's also quite a bit of overlap that can be removed.
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:44 PM   #29
twodollardoug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerCell
SUre, but it will hunt and stall when it idles...

You need to use the manifold pressure sensors. YOu just need to find a transition smooth transition point. There's also quite a bit of overlap that can be removed.
cool, can you explain the "overlap"? and some pointers on how to remove it?
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubblehead
cool, can you explain the "overlap"? and some pointers on how to remove it?

Overlap is when both sensor ciruits are working at the same time. The only recomendation I have for tuning it is to let a trained tuner with a quality dyno handle that task. You can't "sense" when the AF is correct, you need to measure it... under load.



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