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Old 05-23-2011, 12:07 AM   #796
gefr
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Watch out mitchub!

You need to wath out, cause the space is really cramped down there. I don't think your new λ-sensor has the flexibility to fit under the right hs tank. And if it touches to the tank it can be hazardous since it gets heated really much.
Good luck.

Why did you replace the sensor? Any error messages from the EFI?

gefr screwed with this post 05-24-2011 at 12:15 AM
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:05 AM   #797
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...Why did you replace the sensor? Any error messages from the EFI?
Thanks for the heads up, the length of the metal body of each sensor is the same so I hope I'm ok, tank went on without a fight.
The Data Logger comes with a Bosch Wide band sensor.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:49 AM   #798
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'07 US AKRA MAP...2into1...

Well, nothing melted or burst into flames....here are a couple quick samples I did on my shake down runs to see how everything is going to work.

Here is Idle...kinda lean...high 13's AFR...click on images for full size...


Here is 15 seconds of steady state 65mph....pretty Rich low 11's AFR....


I had problems with my power connector that trashed most of my logs due to the unit turning off/on over bumps...fixed that. I see from the few sessions that did capture that generally the map is WAY rich on the low throttle inputs up to 25%, like 11's AFR....now I just need to collect some more data and spend some time with LogWorks to get a better picture of fueling.

Question for the LM guys...I think the TPS signal is not a true 0-5V but more like 0.5-3.7.....I'd like to display TPS as percent...can the setup be configured to reflect 3.7V as 100%?

Thanks
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:00 PM   #799
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You want the bike to idle closer to 14.7 so you are not too lean. It should also be at 14.7 at steady state highway cruising. You don't ever want to see 11's. That is why your mpg sucks. Don't know of a way to convert your TPS log signal. Same as mine. I just did the math. Let's see some 100%tps and closed throttle decel.
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Old 05-23-2011, 02:13 PM   #800
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Originally Posted by tahoeacr View Post
...Let's see some 100%tps and closed throttle decel.
OK, all the 100% roll-ons I did look similar...


I did this run seconds before a cruiser appeared on my test road ....I had already slowed to a nice 45mph

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Old 05-23-2011, 08:53 PM   #801
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Ok Michhub it is time to get to work. Looks alot different now that you are reading only one cylinder vs. your dyno graph eh! Let me interpret what is going on here. Session 2 your cruising along at about 4,000 rpm at about 12%TPS. Bike is running +- 12.0:1. This is problem 1. Too rich at steady throttle. This would be closed loop if you had your 0-2's on. You twist it up to 100%TPS and the A/F doesn't really change much. Problem 2. Should be 12.8:1. You can leave it rich if you want but you are just loosing hp and waisting fuel. About 2 minutes in you shut the throttle. TPS goes to 0. A/F ratio goes lean for a little while. It should as there is no load. Then you see the A/F ratio go rich and you still have the throttle closed. Problem 3. This is what causes the throttle jerk. Loading the cylinders with fuel at closed throttle. Combine that with a rich steady state and you get a jerky throttle. KTM dumps a bunch of fuel in below 5k. Don't know why, must be emissions or something. Got to break for dinner.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:46 PM   #802
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Ok. First thing I would do is tune the 100%TPS. I know earlier you said you didn't care about hp. However, it would be the easiest to start with. You take out the factor of TPS or MAP. All you do is change the A/F ratio per RPM. This will help you get use to the software. Find a steep, long hill with no traffic or . I like 10-12% grades because it takes longer to pull the gear. Start at the bottom in a high gear at 2k. You need to run up to the rev limit. Do a few runs then go back and download. Make small changes until you get use to how much a 1% change makes on the A/F ratio. There is a slight lag from rpm to A/F ratio. If you see you need to change the A/F ratio at 8k try changing it at 7,750rpm.

On your way to and from the hill you can do the steady TPS tuning. Flat ground. I suggest you put a thin mark on your throttle housing. Then mark your throttle grip to coincide with TPS settings. 5,10,15,20,25, 50 and 75%. I use a thin line on the house and a thicker line on the grip. When the bottom of the thick line on the grip matches that is 5%. Top of the line is 10% etc. This will be much quicker than just coming back and reading the data. You can do runs at each %. If you try this on a road that isn't level you change the MAP and that can throw things off. Once fully tuned turn the Lambdas back on. Once these areas are tuned in both cylinders your throttle will get much smoother. The off throttle fueling has to be done in the MAP and I suggest you DON'T touch that map. That is were you can really screw things up.
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:42 AM   #803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr View Post
The off throttle fueling has to be done in the MAP and I suggest you DON'T touch that map. That is were you can really screw things up.
Why?

if you rise the switch point in the F-L switch map to lets say max 60% so the L-map is used below 60% TPS.
And alter the fuelling according the measurements of the WB lambda what can you screw up than?








For the orginal O2 why don't connect the output from the LM2 to the orginal lambda connectors and enable the simulated narrow band output.
And a resitor for the lambda heating and enable the O2's in tuneecu.
I not sure but is the ecu still calculating the fuel the same why as the O2 are disabeld?... i'm wondering?.
Maybe this is a nice test to see if it reacts the same.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:29 AM   #804
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Why?

if you rise the switch point in the F-L switch map to lets say max 60% so the L-map is used below 60% TPS.
And alter the fuelling according the measurements of the WB lambda what can you screw up than?








.
60% your in the throttle pretty hard.
Too many data points for a novice tuner. I'm trying to keep this simple for someone who has never tuned a bike. You would have to convert from 0-4 volts from the data logging. Lean out MAP too much and your EGT's will get too high on a downhill. I leave the F-L alone. I also use the butterflies. I think KTM's wisdom is best at this. Butterflies keep the velocity up at low throttle. My closed loop is working fine. Smooth throttle with a best mpg of 68.2 round trip was 58mpg. Plus 20% more whp with my mods. How can you argue with that? I know you are not arguing but just asking questions.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:30 PM   #805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr View Post
60% your in the throttle pretty hard.
Too many data points for a novice tuner. I'm trying to keep this simple for someone who has never tuned a bike. You would have to convert from 0-4 volts from the data logging. Lean out MAP too much and your EGT's will get too high on a downhill. I leave the F-L alone. I also use the butterflies. I think KTM's wisdom is best at this. Butterflies keep the velocity up at low throttle. My closed loop is working fine. Smooth throttle with a best mpg of 68.2 round trip was 58mpg. Plus 20% more whp with my mods. How can you argue with that? I know you are not arguing but just asking questions.
That mpg i can only dream of that....


Your wright with to start it simple.


About that 60% it isn't that high if you look at a mapping of a 07'-08' adv.
The switch point at those models are set 63% at 3500rpm and higher.
The 09' models have a much lower switch point of 24% at 3500rpm.
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:01 PM   #806
Michhub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr View Post
Ok. First thing I would do is tune the 100%TPS...
Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr View Post
...I'm trying to keep this simple for someone who has never tuned a bike...

tahoeacr...I really appreciate the help especially from someone that has done this to one of the 990's...simple works for me
Now I have to find a suitable test hill, I know of one that is a painfull 1 hour highway run away so I'm looking closer to home...
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:09 PM   #807
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I couldn't find a reference in the thread, but it's a biggie and I could have missed it...

Has anyone tried this map:

Usrael_Ori_KM601EU0902001MapEVO1.hex

in a 990? I have a 2010 and I've gotta try something....anything...

Don't really care that much about absolute power but would sure like to get rid of the weird throttle response aorung 4-5k at small throttle openings, but I'm not about to spend the time, energy and money to fit a wideband, etc...

Last, can someone explain the meaning of the colors in the TuneEcu displays, both the graphic mode and the numbers mode? I did read the docs but can't find it...might help me to understand the comparison mode.

Thanks!

Steve
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:18 PM   #808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleycatdad View Post
I couldn't find a reference in the thread, but it's a biggie and I could have missed it...

Has anyone tried this map:

Usrael_Ori_KM601EU0902001MapEVO1.hex

in a 990? I have a 2010 and I've gotta try something....anything...

Don't really care that much about absolute power but would sure like to get rid of the weird throttle response aorung 4-5k at small throttle openings, but I'm not about to spend the time, energy and money to fit a wideband, etc...

Last, can someone explain the meaning of the colors in the TuneEcu displays, both the graphic mode and the numbers mode? I did read the docs but can't find it...might help me to understand the comparison mode.

Thanks!

Steve
I install using it awhile and went back to the akra

Akra more soft and equal power
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:39 PM   #809
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Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:10 PM   #810
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The different colors relate to different rpms.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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