DR650SE Index Topic #4- SUSPENSION/CHASSIS

[TheMightyQuinn]

Originally Posted by eakins

yes. compared to stock i ride alot faster, but still not USD fast.
if you hope to keep up with true dirt bikes you bought the wrong bike.
go buy a wr450f as the dr is not a true dirt bike.
all the $ in the world won't make it KTM plush.
the DR is a japanese dual-sport from the 90s, nothing more, but they make great day exploring and adv touring bikes


since i wrote that i figured out my fork spring (.50 eibach) is for someone aprox. 215lbs so i'll be pulling that one out selling it and getting a .47 eibach (175lbs)

Thanks Eakins,
The wr450s are nice dirt bikes but I rather doubt that I could have put 20,000 of the kind of miles (80-90 MPH for several hours at a time, two up exploring, touring) I have so far on DR650 without wearing out several of them and myself for that matter. The bike I need is a TE610/630, KTM690 or 950 SE. What I can afford right now are some springs and valves for the suspension to hopefully get part way there. I did not buy the DR to race with dirt bikes but now and again when the pace picks up on a rough trail ride it will be nice to have a bit more control. I agree that the DR650 is a great exploring and adv touring bike. I would add that its also very fun and fast on a tight twisty paved road. Did not buy it to race with sport bikes either, but sometimes I can't help myself.

I would be interested in your .50 Ebachs when your done with them if the shipping cost is not prohibitive. I'm 210 lbs and I use a 5 gallon gas tank so the .50s might be just about right.

[ER70S-2]

NC Rick:

An important note:

DO NOT use the Suzuki manual torque specification to tighten the lower shock mounting bolt (on the shock clevis).

The prescribed torque will often rip the aluminum threads out of the clevice on the OEM or our shock.

There is an error in the manual.

We suggest 37 NM as the correct torque to tighten the M-10 fastener in the aluminum thread.

[pookiebear]

straight rate springs up front. and cogent shock as well on the dr650 I had. It was supermoto'd and the difference in the gravel and dirt was substantial.

[`Sasquatch]

Originally Posted by ADV8

How far do you want to go.

What model forks and what rear shock is that? Also, what crowns did you use and did they maintain any type of steering lock?

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by `Sasquatch

What model forks and what rear shock is that? Also, what crowns did you use and did they maintain any type of steering lock?

It's an Ohlins DR650 shock.

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by `Sasquatch

What model forks and what rear shock is that? Also, what crowns did you use and did they maintain any type of steering lock?

The forks are a brand new set of twin piston Showa's (RMZ250)
Ohlins TXX cartridges.
The rear shock is as Nordie says a DR650 Ohlins that was a let down from day one (like it held no gas )
Built by a total knob head at great expense (over $2000)
It and the forks will got to Frank Pons to be set up properly.
The bike already has RMZ450 forks and triples so the new forks will slot right in.
I might see about getting the travel reduced to around 11 inches.

http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ork/?start=all

.

[LexTalionis]

If you’re thinking of installing a heavier shock spring rather than replacing the entire shock, here’s my experience.

I weigh 235lbs wearing street clothing, don’t know how much more my riding gear weighs but it’s the usual amount. I always carry 20-25lbs of miscellaneous stuff in the tailbag or saddlebags. My bike is a single-seater, I’ve removed the passenger pegs; at 6’2”, there’s no room for a passenger. Riding is 20% freeway, 75% “spirited riding” on paved and sometimes rough mountain roads, 5% dirt forest roads.

I had the OEM shock spring adjusting collars all the way down, and was happy with the ride. But, I couldn’t carry camping gear, the spring compression was maxed out. So I bought ProCycle’s heavier spring of the two offered. Now, fully loaded with camping gear, the ride is plush and there’s still 1.25” of thread left under the adjusting collars. Rebound dampening is set at 3 full rotations counterclockwise; the spring does not overwhelm the dampener for my usage.

I had read different ways of doing the job: taking the shock off from the top or the bottom, or just dropping the spring off the bottom. I did what appeared to me to be the easiest way, leaving the shock in the bike, dropping off the spring. My main concern was how to take the pressure off the linkage when removing the bolts. Here’s what I did.

Back off adjusting collars to near top of shock using a hammer and a drift – will take a few minutes of easy work.
Raise bike on lift; lifting arms under motor.
Lift bike far enough to put 8” support under rear wheel; I used four pavers I had laying around; you could get by with less support, though I don’t know how much less.
Lower bike until the bike’s weight begins to come off the lift; the rear wheel will then be raised as close to the fender as it will go.
Tie down bike to lift.



Remove dogbones – be careful not to cause inner tubes/races to fall out.
Remove bottom shock bolt.
Remove “Y” bracket – be careful not to cause inner tubes/races to fall out.
Push up thick U-shaped piece at bottom of shock until it clears the bottom of the shock and can be pulled off shock; may have to first push rubber conical bumper up on shock shaft – high friction.
Spring and a couple other parts drop off bottom of shock shaft.

Take the parts containing bearings to your workbench, carefully push out the inner race/tube, lube the needle bearings (mine all had a light coating of OEM grease), carefully reinstall the inner race/tube.

Reinstallation is reverse of the above, taking care not to push out the inner race/tube when inserting the bolts. I adjusted the lift height minutely to get the bolt holes to line up.
Dogbone bolt nut torque is 72.5lb-ft or 100N-m.
The front nut on the “Y” piece is 58.0lb-ft or 80N-m, however there’s no way you can get a torque wrench on that nut.
Shock bolt torque is recommended at 37N-m by Rick at Cogent Dynamics, using medium strength threadlocker (blue Loctite); the spec in the manual is WRONG and may result in stripped threads.

Overall, an easy operation.

Lex

[eakins]

sent ya a PM. i'm also in lakewood.
yep those .50 should be perfect for your weight and tank.

Originally Posted by TheMightyQuinn

Thanks Eakins,
The wr450s are nice dirt bikes but I rather doubt that I could have put 20,000 of the kind of miles (80-90 MPH for several hours at a time, two up exploring, touring) I have so far on DR650 without wearing out several of them and myself for that matter. The bike I need is a TE610/630, KTM690 or 950 SE. What I can afford right now are some springs and valves for the suspension to hopefully get part way there. I did not buy the DR to race with dirt bikes but now and again when the pace picks up on a rough trail ride it will be nice to have a bit more control. I agree that the DR650 is a great exploring and adv touring bike. I would add that its also very fun and fast on a tight twisty paved road. Did not buy it to race with sport bikes either, but sometimes I can't help myself.

I would be interested in your .50 Ebachs when your done with them if the shipping cost is not prohibitive. I'm 210 lbs and I use a 5 gallon gas tank so the .50s might be just about right.