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Old 02-26-2012, 02:23 AM   #31
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,132
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Another point to check: after readjusting, my pedal hit on the front of the lowering bracket (template graciously provided by NordieBoy), stopping downward motion (no brake); so I removed a bit from it and the pedal to allow clearance.
I left the pedal at the stock height. I liked it out of the way. Same with the shifter.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:29 AM   #32
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,413
I left my brake lever on the bike and used a die grinder with a barrel bit, took me a couple moments...

My PC lowered pegs came with a longer spring too. I put some BBQ high temp flat black paint on the lever and its been fine for over 10,000 miles.

After a year with the DP pads I'm very happy with them. Very little brake dust, good stopping power and they last. OEM feel and sound without the black dust. I feel it was money well spent, the front pads have out lived the original OEM and still have more to give. I'll be buying DP pads from now on.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:31 PM   #33
basketcase
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Fading...
Oddometer: 1,412
RowRoRo-kay. What I did was this...

Using my Dremel tool and a barrel bit (rough sander belt) I took 5/16''s off the bottom of the lever with it still on the bike.



To begin, I removed the right side peg and center stand springs, and then I ground a "recess" on each end of the area and then took out the middle.



When it was all done I still had to go back and take a bit more off the front or leading edge of the section I ground to get the last bit of clearance for the pedal.



After that I removed the master cylinder shackle (did someone call it a "clevis pin") and took 1/4 inch off the master cylinder shank with a cutting wheel. To secure the shank and keep it from jumping around I used a 2-1/2 inch "C" clamp and secured it to the brake lever. Worked like a charm.

Finally, I reassembled it all and adjusted the brake. Deed done.

Thanks to all for the feedback.



PS: My apologies for the poor lighting.
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:22 PM   #34
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Stainless Front Brake Line Caution

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The point, for those who might be going go that route, make sure the braided brake line is 100 % held by the lower fork clamp (stock DR forks)
When I refitted the parts it was noticed that the hose was closer to the rotor but was firm.
On choppy condition roads the line could very slowly work its way down though that fork clamp until the brake line touched the rotor...fwiw
Slips down at the arrow, rubs on the rotor: (saws with the 320mm rotor shown here)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-26-2012 at 10:28 PM
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:28 AM   #35
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 448
I had to put some electrical tape on the SS line at the area of the clamp to make the diameter of the clamp large enough to hold it. It would be very dangerous to have the brake line moving around, especially with the large rotor. Since I only ride street, and I have a 320mm front rotor, I also re-routed the brake line on the outside of the fork for extra safety. This may or may not be advisable if you ride off road where sticks could grab it.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:15 AM   #36
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,989
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
bleeding the front brake is a real pain in the ass. a good tip i found was to pump up the front pressure and zip tie or velcro the brake lever closed over night, keep the m/c cover loose as well.
great tip for all.

i've heard that one before and used it on my DR.
i did the normal bleed method till things seem good then,
zip tied the lever against the bar overnight. it opens the system so all the left over bubbles rise to top and escape out. i just left the top cap off and put a towel over top so nothing could fall in. the next morning the cap goes back on and the system is rock solid.
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:08 PM   #37
rockydrxrvr
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Oregon Mountains, Great Riding,Not too cold.
Oddometer: 153
When new pads, and a rotor clean and sand won't work

My 2006 DR developed almost non-stopping ability on the Rear Brake,

So I bought new EBC FA152-R pads, chemically clean rotors, sanded with 800 grit, finished with a cross/X path on the sanding, and still... no amount of foot force would give me 'some' wheel lockup, and stopping power. Old pads had lots of surface left, but glazed, and some pollution.

Ok...so a pint of new DOT 4, pull all the old fluid thru with a simple elevated hose and jar trick, and moderate pressure = moderate lock.

So old fluid, with a possibility of air in the line, ( which watching the clear tube, saw one bubble only).

Bleed and Dot 4 your DR system before you buy new pads, not like dummy here, but OK...those pads did have 11 k on them.

Next step is a 'Braided' line, as I want a bit less foot pressure for the same results.

Also of note, I dropped my pegs with a 1.5'' lowering kit, and may have something to do with the angle of leverage/foot pressure, but my finish work on the lowering, gave me an 'even plain' of petal vs. brake arm.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:41 AM   #38
Jenn
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Oakland, CA
Oddometer: 784
Anyone have a photo tutorial for how to change rear brakepads on the DR650SE? Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2014, 01:36 PM   #39
TinMan207
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Maine -- most days
Oddometer: 1,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn View Post
Anyone have a photo tutorial for how to change rear brakepads on the DR650SE? Thanks!
Page 5-34 of the shop manual.


The DR is definitely worth having the shop manual for. Most everything is simple to work on, and seldom requires special tools.

Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:01 PM   #40
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 7,079
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockydrxrvr View Post
My 2006 DR developed almost non-stopping ability on the Rear Brake,

So I bought new EBC FA152-R pads, chemically clean rotors, sanded with 800 grit, finished with a cross/X path on the sanding, and still... no amount of foot force would give me 'some' wheel lockup, and stopping power. Old pads had lots of surface left, but glazed, and some pollution.

Ok...so a pint of new DOT 4, pull all the old fluid thru with a simple elevated hose and jar trick, and moderate pressure = moderate lock.

So old fluid, with a possibility of air in the line, ( which watching the clear tube, saw one bubble only).

Bleed and Dot 4 your DR system before you buy new pads, not like dummy here, but OK...those pads did have 11 k on them.

Next step is a 'Braided' line, as I want a bit less foot pressure for the same results.

Also of note, I dropped my pegs with a 1.5'' lowering kit, and may have something to do with the angle of leverage/foot pressure, but my finish work on the lowering, gave me an 'even plain' of petal vs. brake arm.
Make sure that the brake pedal is not contacting the footpeg mount.

Did you check the thickness of the rotor? A rotor that is too thin could cause what you describe. I clean rotors with brake cleaner or acetone. Be sure not to breathe any of the brake cleaner. It can be lethal, even in small exposures.

I run stock rotors and either stock or cheapy pads. With braided stainless hoses and a good bleed, my '03 DR can lock either tire at will on dry pavement. My '13 still has stock rubber hoses and is NOTICEABLY mushier for braking.
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:35 AM   #41
nateberkopec
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Location: NYC
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I just installed the SW-Motech centerstand yesterday, but ended up with a perplexing issue - the brake lever now hits the top of the centerstand mount! I only have, maybe, 1/2" of play in the lever before it hits the centerstand mounting plate.

Is this normal, or is my brake lever bent (new bike to me, only done a few hundred miles on it)? How can I fix this? I was planning on playing with the adjustment screw, but the brake pedal is pretty much already level with the peg, so I think I may end up with the same problem as the above poster.

I don't have access to a grinder - living in a tiny NYC apt means I only have access to my simple toolbox.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:21 AM   #42
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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If you don't know anyone with power tools (angle grinder, for instance), it's time to add a Dremel Kit to your simple tool collection. Don't force it to cut (pushing down hard), it's a small tool, let the bit do the work. Never run a grinder without safety glasses.

If you're young, tough and patient, you can use a file.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:50 AM   #43
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 7,079
Quote:
Originally Posted by nateberkopec View Post
I just installed the SW-Motech centerstand yesterday, but ended up with a perplexing issue - the brake lever now hits the top of the centerstand mount! I only have, maybe, 1/2" of play in the lever before it hits the centerstand mounting plate.

Is this normal, or is my brake lever bent (new bike to me, only done a few hundred miles on it)? How can I fix this? I was planning on playing with the adjustment screw, but the brake pedal is pretty much already level with the peg, so I think I may end up with the same problem as the above poster.

I don't have access to a grinder - living in a tiny NYC apt means I only have access to my simple toolbox.
Is the clevis on the rear of the pedal adjusted correctly?
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Some are guard dogs of the flock. Some herders, search/rescue, or companions. We Devildogs are those, and also retrievers. Hell is our blazing dogpark, our frigid swimming hole. The fallen are our tennis balls. We don't leave the fallen behind, even if the master has to bring them home for us. Semper Fi, my friends.
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Old 06-08-2014, 02:46 PM   #44
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 992
Quote:
Originally Posted by nateberkopec View Post
I just installed the SW-Motech centerstand yesterday, but ended up with a perplexing issue - the brake lever now hits the top of the centerstand mount! I only have, maybe, 1/2" of play in the lever before it hits the centerstand mounting plate.

Is this normal, or is my brake lever bent (new bike to me, only done a few hundred miles on it)? How can I fix this? I was planning on playing with the adjustment screw, but the brake pedal is pretty much already level with the peg, so I think I may end up with the same problem as the above poster.

I don't have access to a grinder - living in a tiny NYC apt means I only have access to my simple toolbox.
No, it's not normal with stock footpegs. I've mounted my SWMotech centerstand on 2 DRs now and have not had clearance issues on either. Have your footpegs been lowered?

.................shu
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:18 PM   #45
nateberkopec
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Location: NYC
Oddometer: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Have your footpegs been lowered?

.................shu
Definitely not. I'll check the rear brake adjustment, see what I can do. I'll post a pic if I can't figure it out.
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