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Old 02-26-2012, 01:23 AM   #31
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 6,999
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Another point to check: after readjusting, my pedal hit on the front of the lowering bracket (template graciously provided by NordieBoy), stopping downward motion (no brake); so I removed a bit from it and the pedal to allow clearance.
I left the pedal at the stock height. I liked it out of the way. Same with the shifter.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:29 AM   #32
sagedrifter
Southern Explorer
 
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,350
I left my brake lever on the bike and used a die grinder with a barrel bit, took me a couple moments...

My PC lowered pegs came with a longer spring too. I put some BBQ high temp flat black paint on the lever and its been fine for over 10,000 miles.

After a year with the DP pads I'm very happy with them. Very little brake dust, good stopping power and they last. OEM feel and sound without the black dust. I feel it was money well spent, the front pads have out lived the original OEM and still have more to give. I'll be buying DP pads from now on.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:31 PM   #33
basketcase
lifelong reject fixer
 
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Roll Tide Central...
Oddometer: 1,347
RowRoRo-kay. What I did was this...

Using my Dremel tool and a barrel bit (rough sander belt) I took 5/16''s off the bottom of the lever with it still on the bike.



To begin, I removed the right side peg and center stand springs, and then I ground a "recess" on each end of the area and then took out the middle.



When it was all done I still had to go back and take a bit more off the front or leading edge of the section I ground to get the last bit of clearance for the pedal.



After that I removed the master cylinder shackle (did someone call it a "clevis pin") and took 1/4 inch off the master cylinder shank with a cutting wheel. To secure the shank and keep it from jumping around I used a 2-1/2 inch "C" clamp and secured it to the brake lever. Worked like a charm.

Finally, I reassembled it all and adjusted the brake. Deed done.

Thanks to all for the feedback.



PS: My apologies for the poor lighting.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:22 PM   #34
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,003
Stainless Front Brake Line Caution

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The point, for those who might be going go that route, make sure the braided brake line is 100 % held by the lower fork clamp (stock DR forks)
When I refitted the parts it was noticed that the hose was closer to the rotor but was firm.
On choppy condition roads the line could very slowly work its way down though that fork clamp until the brake line touched the rotor...fwiw
Slips down at the arrow, rubs on the rotor: (saws with the 320mm rotor shown here)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-26-2012 at 09:28 PM
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:28 AM   #35
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 443
I had to put some electrical tape on the SS line at the area of the clamp to make the diameter of the clamp large enough to hold it. It would be very dangerous to have the brake line moving around, especially with the large rotor. Since I only ride street, and I have a 320mm front rotor, I also re-routed the brake line on the outside of the fork for extra safety. This may or may not be advisable if you ride off road where sticks could grab it.
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:15 PM   #36
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 16,701
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
bleeding the front brake is a real pain in the ass. a good tip i found was to pump up the front pressure and zip tie or velcro the brake lever closed over night, keep the m/c cover loose as well.
great tip for all.

i've heard that one before and used it on my DR.
i did the normal bleed method till things seem good then,
zip tied the lever against the bar overnight. it opens the system so all the left over bubbles rise to top and escape out. i just left the top cap off and put a towel over top so nothing could fall in. the next morning the cap goes back on and the system is rock solid.
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