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Old 06-11-2014, 12:51 PM   #46
nateberkopec
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Joined: May 2010
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 69
Fixed it! Definitely was a poorly adjusted clevis. When I really sat down and measured it, the rear brake was resting nearly an inch below the peg!

Which also explains why I had such poor rear brake power... Time to go riding now though!
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:08 PM   #47
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,754
Cleaning Your Caliper Pins

Our calipers move slightly as the pads wear, sliding on two pins. Since the calipers live in a harsh environment, they get dirty. It's your job to clean and grease them and should be done regularly, like each time you replace a tire.

The rear caliper will slide off to the right, as soon as the rotor is clear. That didn't seem to work for me the last time I tried it with the front caliper, I had to remove the pads.

Ewwwww Be sure to replace this rubber seal when you're done.


Use Q-Tips or paper towels to clean out the sockets.


Rear caliper pins cleaned up pritty.


This seal, on both calipers, runs all the way thru the alum. I thought it was just a cap and should pull right off.


This is a pic of one of the pins. The flats are there to allow grease to pass the pin when reassembled. All four pins (2 front, 2 rear), slide into dead end sockets; don't over grease. I think there is a special caliper pin grease. The bronze colored piece is the caliper adapter for a 320mm rotor (you probably don't have one).


This is when I learned two things:
1. The rear caliper will slide off with the pads in place, and be hanging on the side of the swing arm when you stand the bike back up.
2. That rubber seal mentioned above will get lost.


This is a heat insulator, it keeps the brake fluid from boiling when using the rear brake for trail braking, etc.

Don't bend the tabs on the stainless shim, done properly, they'll snap on without loosing their shape. Note: shown on the wrong side of the pad for the top photo.








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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 09-29-2014 at 03:05 PM
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:14 AM   #48
Krusty ... OP
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
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Nice write-up ...
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"...choosing a DR indicates an affinity for peace, harmony and enlightenment. Serenity lies in accepting it as it is, changing what you want, and the wisdom of knowing it ain't orange." -psmcd
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:04 AM   #49
ER70S-2
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Hiya Krusty
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2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:56 PM   #50
Lobster
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Memphis Metro Area
Oddometer: 352
Looking for some brake advice. Just bought a 2001. Front brake feels "wooden". Lever doesn't feel spongy...just feels like no matter how hard you pull the lever the brakes don't squeeze any harder.

Ideas?

Stuck caliper?
Pads glazed?
Old fluid?

Thanks
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:32 PM   #51
Krusty ... OP
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Location: Richardson, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobster View Post
Looking for some brake advice. Just bought a 2001. Front brake feels "wooden". Lever doesn't feel spongy...just feels like no matter how hard you pull the lever the brakes don't squeeze any harder.

Ideas?

Stuck caliper?
Pads glazed?
Old fluid?

Thanks

I could also be time for a new brake line. The old rubber can flex under pressure. Hey, you were looking for an excuse to upgrade to a braided hose anyway, right?
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
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