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Old 01-19-2011, 08:30 AM   #166
Bonsai Elephant
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CJ, one more line of questions:

Where do you park your bike at night, how is it secured, and do you have any scheduled event in the near future which will place you safely out of earshot?

I ask only out of interest...

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Old 01-19-2011, 12:23 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonsai Elephant View Post
CJ, one more line of questions:

Where do you park your bike at night, how is it secured, and do you have any scheduled event in the near future which will place you safely out of earshot?

I ask only out of interest...




I have also been working on an Invisible Paint formula in my Lab. Patented soon, so that no one can see any part covered by it......


BTW, Who would want this piece of junk? It's been cobbled together by some hack w/ a Sawzall, has 80,000 miles on a worn out engine, scratches all over the plastics, faded seat, bald tires and gets horrible gas mileage. It think they'd be better off spending there time looking for one of those shiny BMW things, those are the real "World Touring" bikes. Everyone knows that.
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:23 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjracer View Post

I have also been working on an Invisible Paint formula in my Lab. Patented soon, so that no one can see any part covered by it......


BTW, Who would want this piece of junk? It's been cobbled together by some hack w/ a Sawzall, has 80,000 miles on a worn out engine, scratches all over the plastics, faded seat, bald tires and gets horrible gas mileage. It think they'd be better off spending there time looking for one of those shiny BMW things, those are the real "World Touring" bikes. Everyone knows that.
>> xdbx "likes" this
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:06 PM   #169
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CJ the rocketeer...

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjracer View Post
This is just an estimate of the R&D time. Of course the second one would go way faster. Ya, if you figured $10/hr x 2,735 hr = $27,350. That might be kind of spendy.There is still a lot to look into before this could ever become "production" from me.
But the fact that you were able to create one for yourself, where at that point you were the only one in the world to experience it... the 2wd Adventure. It's like building the first manned rocket. It wasn't done fast, cheap or easy. But only one man was able to say he was "first" to rocket off the ground. That's priceless. Awesome work CJ. Riveting thread too.
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:46 PM   #170
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C'mon, it's snowy out in your neck of the woods, more pix!

I know, I know, overcommited...
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:10 AM   #171
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Cjracer, congratulations for the most interesting thread in the motorcycle forum history. I wish I had the opportunity to ride such a bike myself

Have you got thoughts/experience on the simpler (and possibly inferior) yamaha/ohlins hydraulic system? Please please please, either you or somebody else here, make a simple bolt-on kit to sell to us and you/he will be a rich man.

edit. Just noticed that the hydraulic system has been discussed already here. Still, somebody ought to make one!

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Old 02-03-2011, 10:30 PM   #172
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Had some issues finding my next batch of pics, sorry for the delay.

It's mid July 2010 now.....

After working on making a longer head tube, the next step was to lengthen the "GUTS".

Here is the top Tripple Clamp (a great piece or art in itself) and the head bearing assembly:


On every other bike there is a steering stem down the head tube w/ a top and bottom bearing. Bearing preload set by tightening a center bolt of nut. Things get pretty interesting up here. Lots of stuff going on, but very easy to understand and service. Steve did a great job designing this.

There is no stem on this setup. The top has a bearing support for the top pivot point and an ID bore for the bearing support of the bevel gear for the drive.
The "GUTS" mocked up to see how it looks together:


This can be removed for servicing the bearings by loosening a set screw. Pretty easy.

Top Center Support removed:




Steve sent me the service manuals so I could work my way through this before I got all these parts. This helped a lot to allow me to visualize how this this all fit together, now w/ the parts in my hands work progressed smoother and faster.

I also asked Steve to send me the parts assembled. I knew I'd have to pull it apart, but I'd learn better how they go back together if I disassembled them than if I just had a picture of "Part 1 goes in hole B" and so on.

The Bevel gear bearing was assembled in the Top Center support ahead of time. I wanted to remove it, and the directions called for a special bearing puller that I didn't have as the bearing was installed in a "Blind" hole.

This part is pretty large and I thought I could redesign it to make servicing and building easier for the future. I could also make the part lighter.

I put the part in the lathe:


Drilled a good size hole all the way through to the bearing locating bore:


I can now use a soft Aluminum drift to tap the bearing out from the backside (like you would remove your head tube bearing race). It worked great.

This is capped off by the top Tripple clamp, so I'll put a little grease around the top of the spacer to keep dust from getting down the center of the head tube, but when it seats up against the tripple it will be sealed pretty well as they are both flat surfaces and don't rotate in each other. If I wanted to be a bit more fancy, I could cut in an o-ring groove to have an o-ring seal, but I think that's overkill for now. (Future Submarine version maybe...)

You can see here again that the inner bearing has been removed:


Back the CAD to draw up a support bearing spacer. I could have made an new one peice support, but I don't think it would be much weaker by making a press in adaptor. It would also save me some time. I followed the same idea for the head tube adaptor for the inside. This is going to be built with a bit of guess work. All dimensions are finish size. Unlike my Headtube that has plus stock to allow recutting after welding. I can't do a final test fit until the headtube bearings are installed......that won't be for some time yet.

I hope my math works out???






All pressed together.


It looks pretty good loose fitting parts together with out bearings.




It's getting closer......yet still so much to do.....
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:46 PM   #173
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Now's time to get serious, it's time to start welding.
I order to make sure my alignment of all the parts was held I made some jigs and bushings to help hold stuff.

First up was a bushing to locate on the internal bearing bore on the Input back side of the head tube and a hole that would allow the front drive shaft to extend through.




This was turned on the Lathe. Pretty simple part but very helpful.
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:12 AM   #174
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This is the part where I would slowly grind to a halt second guessing myself until I had reached a state of analysis paralysis, assuming by some epic miracle I had made it this far as successfully as you did, CJ.

Great thread.

I had started following it thinking maybe I could do this also, but it's taken on a "How to Build Your Own Lunar Excursion Module" quality to it, which makes it all the more compelling.

Thanks for sharing.

Hats (or helmets) off to a very talented individual.
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Old 02-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #175
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The only problem with reading this thread (and I subscribed to it back when it started) is that I am finding my garage is far too small and lacking some serious tools and machinery. I think I have those blue straps that he uses to hold things together, but beyond that...
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:44 AM   #176
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It's getting to be the end of July 2010.

I have the head tube 90% figured out. The CV joint is looking good and I have an idea to hold it to the frame.

Next up is the location and fitment of the Gear box w/ the ON/OFF Switch integrated inside. This is very important for chain life and gearing options. I spent some time going over spreadsheet numbers to figure out how to get my power percentage correct for the LC8. I needed to have everything geared properly so the front wheel would be getting enough rotations, but still Under driven from the rear.

The only thing I had to go on was the gearing given in the kit for the Smaller 525 KTMs. The 950 is geared just "little" taller, so I looked at tranny gears and output sprocket options to make the best guess. I also wanted to build enough flexibility into the system so I could try different front wheel power percentages in the future. This can be done by swapping gears, just like your rear sprocket set on a 1WD bike.

I can now run 60%-70%-80% front wheel power. What this does is change how fast the front wheel starts pulling you. Steve said that the closer I get to 100% the more resistance there would be in the steering, so I "played it safe" and started w/ 60%. (At least that's what I was hoping for if my calculations were correct)

My normal sprocket setup for 90% of my riding is 17/45, by swapping on a 16th front I can have more front gearing % options.

Now back to the shop!

I'll be using my sprocket extension bolt to test alignment and location of the system.



I grabbed a sprocket out of my assortment of sizes.


Cut the ID to fit on the sprocket extension arbor.


Fit that on so it can be slid in or out depending on my final gear box location. (This is all just test fitting)


A sliding fixture was needed to be built in order to test chain lengths and help position the gear box when it can to welding time.

I CNC cut the same diameter into the ends of the some flat stock, milled some slots and now I've got an adjustable fixture.


Frame position and clearance issues can now be worked out as now a repeatable position can now be obtained instead of just holding it by hand.


This would also allow me to cut chain and make sure the proper links and sprockets would work. It would be very bad if this was all welded up only to find you were 1/2 a link off and didn't have enough tensioner built into it.
Talk about having to thing 10 steps ahead.

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Old 02-25-2011, 08:56 AM   #177
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Position of the gear box was now pretty much dialed in, but when I started out I designed the frame mount for a different location. ????

I now had to reload the part and cut some stock off in order for it to work. No need to machine a complete new parts.

Start w/ this:


End up w/ this:
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:22 AM   #178
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You continue to be a master handcraft...
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:24 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjracer View Post
It's getting to be the end of July 2010.
your either have a phenominal memory or are VERY well organized. i can't remember what i did Feb. 24. 2011 NOR would i be able to identify pics on my computer that i took that day.
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:44 PM   #180
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