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Old 11-11-2010, 05:40 PM   #16
appalachian
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Help"n a brother out

I dont know how to do a link, if some one can find the thread about do'n the DR650 stator rewire it mite be a good trick to know and keep.

I cant recall the posters name but he found a way to rewire his stator and get quite a bit more juice from it, seemed to be some very helpfull info.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:29 AM   #17
Krusty ... OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appalachian
I dont know how to do a link, if some one can find the thread about do'n the DR650 stator rewire it mite be a good trick to know and keep.

I cant recall the posters name but he found a way to rewire his stator and get quite a bit more juice from it, seemed to be some very helpfull info.

I believe you're talking about procycle's stator modification.

http://www.procycle.us/info/articles...ta-stator.html




LED TURNSIGNAL CONVERSION PROBLEM QUICK FIX:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timan
I figure someone has faced this problem and can help me. I have replaced the original signals with leds and also replaced the relay with one for led's. Now I have 4-way flashers when I activate either side. I ran an extra ground for the fronts when I didn't have any signals at all. Before I run extra ground for the rear I wanted to check for any tribal knowledge on this issue. Thanks for any ideas.

Timan
"Pull the turn signal indicator bulb on the dash and the everything will be ok assuming you installed the correct relay.

To fix the problem and have an indicator light, go here:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...fCatId=&mmyId="
-HiJincs
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Krusty ... screwed with this post 04-03-2011 at 06:38 PM
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:01 AM   #18
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That is well done my friend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard
I chose a Koso volt meter easy to install, lightweight, reads easy. I fabricated a bracket with sheet aluminum and pop rivets, wired it to 2 switches one is momentary the other on/off

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Old 11-28-2010, 10:03 AM   #19
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For a time, the Buell headlight conversion was a popular mod. Used to be a reasonably priced swap, IIRC, but the demise of Buell may have changed things, if you can even find the parts. Here's an old ThumperTalk thread on the subject:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=300858
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:54 AM   #20
AlpinaE24
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Can we get a merge on all these threads?
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:52 PM   #21
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpinaE24
Can we get a merge on all these threads?
there is a method here:

krusty has a master thread that points to all these indiv. ones
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549433

that master thread will ultimately be linked into gadget boys stickied master bike realted item thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046 so it will always be able to be found as the 1st post in thumpers. krusty is creating seperate threads per each category. if he mearges then it become huge and unwieldly just like the big dr, hence the indv. therads. of course these indiv. threads will float back in and out of the first thumper page as people post, but the master list will always be on top of thumpers.

what really needs to happen here (by everyone with a dr!) to truely evolve this dr master info tread is to start pointing back to specific technical post(s) in the big dr thread that pertain to issues in addition to adding your own info. everyone has some dr issue they know about and where it is in the big dr thead. make that info known! krusty started this because we all have at one time or another thought i have an issue and i know i've seen it somewhere in the big thread but where the hell is it??? what happens in use is people just ask the question again because it's quicker to get the info that way.

krusty,
i think you need to say something like i just said in your master list thread so people understand what this should evolve into.
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eakins screwed with this post 11-28-2010 at 02:01 PM
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:22 PM   #22
Nathan
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Are there any aftermarket indicators that just plug in and work? I haven't managed to find any. I'm touring around Australia (see sig.) and would prefer an easy, cheap solution that gets my bike back to road-legal status.
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:02 PM   #23
ER70S-2
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Stator Wiring Wye to Delta

Thanks to the work of others:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527351

Some repeat, some new:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=851210

Additional DR electical info.
Suzuki DR650 Electrical Page:
http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Electrical.htm

Stator Rewinding:
[http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=rewind+stator

Stators Demystified:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 06-21-2013 at 12:01 PM
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:43 AM   #24
eakins
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so i spent some more time reading about shorai batteries as i keep hearing about them from various sources.

here's a faq on cold:
http://www.shoraipower.com/t-faq.aspx

simple answer is they don't crank as well the 1st time only when cold compared to lead-acid/agm but crank harder after that. so if it's real cold you either crank once and then crank again for full power (which isn't the best for wear) OR turn on the ignition/lights and let the battery "warm up" and then get full crank and a cold weather start.

here's the dr listing:
http://www.shoraipower.com/s-48918-DR650SE-CN.aspx
the standard battery option has more cca than the deka but costs $45 more.
like i said, the weight issue is really not that big on the dr...but if i had a
wr250r i would pay to loose 4lbs. of course the price will come down over time to the point i think it's a no brainer to buy these batteries. since the dr is kinda of a weak starter from the factory (undersized battery cables) maybe the shorai is the perfect battery for us today. it is undersized and thus needs some foam shimming. sound like a complete nice package for jesse & procycle to be putting togthers, shims and all.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650324
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:27 PM   #25
ER70S-2
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Greg@RME Ignition Switch Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpinaE24 View Post
Can we get a merge on all these threads?
Not really, it's the whole point of Krusty's DR650SE Index.

Greg@RME Ignition Switch Removal:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...29&postcount=2

Edit to add another thread on switch removal: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=700534

Including this by Dukegnarley:
"I did some searching and came up with an answer on another board. The way to add a different switch is to....

1. Cut the pigtail off of the original ignition switch

2. Connect a 100 ohm resistor between the black/white and orange/yellow wires.

3. Connect the brown and grey wires together

4. Run the red and orange wires to your new switch.

I haven't actually tried this yet to confirm it, but I will in the next day or so."
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-18-2011 at 03:43 PM Reason: Added second link
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:04 AM   #26
planemanx15
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Hi all..

Thinking about swapping out my stock DR headlight for a double round HID projector light kit. Has anybody made a bracket to do this to there bike? I figure I would need to build a double mount, and make both lights move up and down independently.

Wiring wise, I want to have 1 light on all the time, and the other on a switch that I can flip on when needed. High beams will turn both on. Here is a picture of the kit I want to use.



I would also need a fairing, I think I've seen a few on this site that fit well over the round lights.. link??
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:59 PM   #27
eakins
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if not going HID...

first place you should always start is a realy to bypass the stock electrical lines and get max power to the buld
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...s/h4_kits.html

next upgrade the bulb but not so much (too hot) as to damage the housing
http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html
this is daniel stern's site and he emailed me this is the max you could go w/o a wiring harness (ie stock wiring harness can melt if used). not sure the max you can go w/o damaging the lighting assy (too much heat) though if you do have a realy.

this is be a great offroad bulb (& would produce even more light w/ a relay) if you are primarily a dirt rider:
http://store.candlepower.com/rose12v60h4h.html

here's the full list
http://store.candlepower.com/h4hb29003bulbs.html

i have also used these (with & without a wiring harness) and they do produce some serious light. they are imported by ARB.
http://www.bestrestproducts.com/p-94...060w-bulb.aspx
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:13 PM   #28
Gentri in GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy_Goat View Post
I'd like to share a bizarre problem I had with my 2003 DR650SE.

When I turned the bars all the way to the left the engine would die. It would crank over but not start, lights and everything else worked too.

After confirming that it wasn't the choke or throttle cables, I began checking all the electrical connectors. All the connectors seemed fine so I started messing with the harness and found that when I wiggled the harness the engine would die regardless of what position the bars were in. I checked all the connectors over and over to no avail, so I unwrapped the harness from the speedo to the air box. I found NO damaged wires at all, none. I would start the bike and if I wiggled the wires it would die, very frustrating to say the least. I then separated all the non-essential wires, i.e. lights, horn, etc from the critical wires. I was at my wits end and about to set the bike on fire when it dawned on me that I should check the wires for continuity. So I used the sharp probe tips of my ammeter to check the resistance in the wires and found one wire that would lose continuity if shaken. It was orange w/black stripe, critical for the ignition. The wire had no visible damage at all. I soldered in a replacement and haven't had a problem since.

Cliff notes:
Had intermittent electrical problem causing bike to die.
Toned out wires inside harness and found a bad wire. Orange w/blk
Soldered in replacement.

Advice:
Check the tension of the harness when bars are at full left.
If it's too tight, free it up a little.
Crap. I've had intermittent issues with my '98 that sound like that, may be time to dig in....
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:21 AM   #29
plugeye
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a little hard to see, but this harness is secured to the top of the neck & is independent of the forks. no tugging
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:23 AM   #30
planemanx15
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Saw on the first page a lot of people are running heated gloves as well as heated grips. Is that usually necessary?
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