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Old 05-21-2012, 10:39 AM   #76
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I did as you suggested, and it may have nearly got me killed tonight. It's either the cover, or that Sea Foam added to the fuel tank earlier in the day dislodged some varnish or debris and is blocking some part of the carb.

But the bucking-bronco I tried to ride in to work was a whole different story... I finally learned to only turn the throttle to a certain point, and no more - no matter what.... that made for a long and dangerous ride.
Sounds to me like something is in the main jet, an easy fix. Maybe
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Old 05-21-2012, 03:54 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Sounds to me like something is in the maini jet, an easy fix. Maybe
Yeah, it did seem like it, but taking off the airbox cover solved it... so I'm going with lack of air once the main jet kicks in - and apparently that's the zone in which I ride.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:02 AM   #78
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Keep in mind that taking the side cover off and cutting the top open are not the same thing. Once properly opened up, it will have less intake noise and less prone to surging. Try not to loose the capture nuts.

It actually runs fine stock with the pilot screw backed out some. I just hated the lean surge at light throttle. Once I did my first DJ kit it ran much better but my 50/54 mpg went to 45/47 mpg. But I did add exhaust too with a 160 main and the needle at 4. Just like the directions. After a years of that and trying the 3rd notch, I switched to a TM40, no more surge, no more vacuum hesitation, better fuel economy. No more need to tinker....

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Old 05-22-2012, 07:35 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
Keep in mind that taking the side cover off and cutting the top open are not the same thing. Once properly opened up, it will have less intake noise and less prone to surging. Try not to loose the capture nuts.

It actually runs fine stock with the pilot screw backed out some. I just hated the lean surge at light throttle. Once I did my first DJ kit it ran much better but my 50/54 mpg went to 45/47 mpg. But I did add exhaust too with a 160 main and the needle at 4. Just like the directions. After a years of that and trying the 3rd notch, I switched to a TM40, no more surge, no more vacuum hesitation, better fuel economy. No more need to tinker....

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LOL, sounds good... but I'm at something like 37 or 36 MPG. I swear my speedo is wrong, but if it isn't then I'm doing 90 to 95 most of the way to work with the 15-tooth front sprocket and a very, very worn rear tire. Rear tire should be changed out today for a taller one, and 16 tooth sprocket should be here later this week... I didn't buy the bike for any extra fuel mileage, but it would be nice if I could get it.

I tend to believe that for most bikes, no matter the cc's or cylinders, to push a human who sits upright at 85 MPH - with no windshield - pretty much takes the same amount of fuel on most bikes, and that will be at, or just below, 40 MPG. My three bikes all get about the same MPG for the speeds I run. If I slowed down to 55 MPH or so then that's where I'd see the differences in fuel economy.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:57 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
LOL, sounds good... but I'm at something like 37 or 36 MPG. I swear my speedo is wrong, but if it isn't then I'm doing 90 to 95 most of the way to work with the 15-tooth front sprocket and a very, very worn rear tire. Rear tire should be changed out today for a taller one, and 16 tooth sprocket should be here later this week... I didn't buy the bike for any extra fuel mileage, but it would be nice if I could get it.

I tend to believe that for most bikes, no matter the cc's or cylinders, to push a human who sits upright at 85 MPH - with no windshield - pretty much takes the same amount of fuel on most bikes, and that will be at, or just below, 40 MPG. My three bikes all get about the same MPG for the speeds I run. If I slowed down to 55 MPH or so then that's where I'd see the differences in fuel economy.
I got 46 mpg riding my big fat FJR to work in Daytona. I hit 80 plus in 70 zones often. The bike actually ran at 90 very relaxed. 120 came easily.

The DR650 is better at a true 65/70 mph. Any more and the economy drops like a rock. I cruise at 70 and get about 47 mpg on trips. Under 65 mph means over 50 mpg for me. I have to ride really hard to see less. Sounds like you need a big standard or a sport touring bike.

If your staying over 80 mph indicated a bunch, get a 16t CS and find a faster bike soon. Like an old Black Bird or at least an old VFR etc... I liked the FJR1300 since it was shaft driven.

The poor old DR650 is not made for sustained high speeds.


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Old 05-23-2012, 07:29 AM   #81
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I really don't want to respond to this because it isn't a carb issue in a carb thread, but ... if you were planning on anyone ignoring the obvious so you could get a counter-statement out there, well...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I got 46 mpg riding my big fat FJR to work in Daytona. I hit 80 plus in 70 zones often. The bike actually ran at 90 very relaxed. 120 came easily.
Mute argument - the FJR has a fairing, has a taller windscreen than quite a few bikes I can think of, and the rider isn't sitting upright; it doesn't counter what I've stated... so I'm not sure why you decided it was worth writing in response to what I wrote. As if fatness has more to do with aerodynamics than curves and wind flow...

As stated, the 16 is on its way to me as of a few days ago, and the change to 17t when it's time to switch the chain and both sprockets will be even better.
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:02 PM   #82
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Carb Secondary Air Filter

After seeing a photo of a stock carb full of dust below the diaphram, I started paying attention.
The bottom arrow shows where it enters. Mine at about 35,000 miles.


Photo thanks to Blackcap


The stock air filter is pathetic. It's about 3/16" thick open cell foam and it's dry.
How to get it out: the retaining ring is a very flexible plastic, unlikely to break.
But it will take off like a rubber band when it pops free. DAMHIK


This shows mine after cleaning and oiling.


Rusty Rocket mentioned this idea after I saw the dust filled carb: DING, the light goes on.


Ten minutes with a pair of scissors. (squish the edge flat to cut)


After oiling both, reinstalling the stock one and clip; push the new filter in on top.


With Rusty's idea, shown below, completely neglected , there was no dust in the rubber tube or in the carb. You can see where the sludge was flaking off, exposing fresh, oiled filter surface area.
Just like the original Filtron foam filter was designed to do. Oops, mighta dated myself a bit there.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 06-09-2012, 12:08 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
After seeing a photo of a stock carb full of dust below the diaphram, I started paying attention.
Imagine this full of dust, the bottom arrow shows where it enters.


Thank you!

You mean like my picture from two days ago?



This 2002 bike had about 3700 miles on it, total, with the carb looking like that.

I'll address mine in the next few days, then change the oil.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:21 AM   #84
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Noob carb question

I just picked up a DR650 with Mikuni TM40 pumper and K&N filter. It had a super trapp muffler and stock headpipe. Now it has an fmf powerbomb head pipe and Q4 muffler. The bike would blow some black smoke when I got it and it still does now. It had and has a stumble off idle when you first hit the throttle whether warm or cold. It seems like with the exhaust change I am now getting some more popping or light backfire on deceleration or closed throttle. I am going to check air cleaner tonight. I know it also had the airbox mod done.

Here's the real noob part: is the air fuel screw the brass knob about center on the front of the carb? Way to tight to get to to adjust when hot, was thinkig of slipping a piece of tube on end to use to turn it and play with adjustment.

Any ideas and guidance on my issues?

Thanks,

Tom

P.S. what a great kick butt, versatile bike. A blast in dirt and on road. Who would have thought old school could be so good.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:11 PM   #85
MMMOTORCYCLE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomordr View Post
I just picked up a DR650 with Mikuni TM40 pumper and K&N filter. It had a super trapp muffler and stock headpipe. Now it has an fmf powerbomb head pipe and Q4 muffler. The bike would blow some black smoke when I got it and it still does now. It had and has a stumble off idle when you first hit the throttle whether warm or cold. It seems like with the exhaust change I am now getting some more popping or light backfire on deceleration or closed throttle. I am going to check air cleaner tonight. I know it also had the airbox mod done.

Here's the real noob part: is the air fuel screw the brass knob about center on the front of the carb? Way to tight to get to to adjust when hot, was thinkig of slipping a piece of tube on end to use to turn it and play with adjustment.

Any ideas and guidance on my issues?

Thanks,

Tom

P.S. what a great kick butt, versatile bike. A blast in dirt and on road. Who would have thought old school could be so good.

This what you're looking for?
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html OR
http://kientech.com/ExtendedFuelScrews.htm
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:36 PM   #86
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Just picked up a 2003 DR with 18,000 miles to use as my primary ride (no vehicle) and it has some pronounced surging all over the rev range. From take off to highway speed it surges, tried it at highway speed with the enricher on and no diffrence.
The previous owner says he recently installed a Pro Cycle jet kit (emailed them a few days ago and never heard back) and he drilled the carb for the air/fuel adjustment for easy access and also installed a twin air filter. I am going to pull the carb to have a look see but any pointers?
I would rather it just be stock but no sense on going back now unless this is going to be a tweaking nightmare which I cannot deal with and commute on daily.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:11 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Just picked up a 2003 DR with 18,000 miles to use as my primary ride (no vehicle) and it has some pronounced surging all over the rev range. From take off to highway speed it surges, tried it at highway speed with the enricher on and no diffrence.
The previous owner says he recently installed a Pro Cycle jet kit (emailed them a few days ago and never heard back) and he drilled the carb for the air/fuel adjustment for easy access and also installed a twin air filter. I am going to pull the carb to have a look see but any pointers?
I would rather it just be stock but no sense on going back now unless this is going to be a tweaking nightmare which I cannot deal with and commute on daily.
The jet kit was probably installed to fix a running issue. I bet the pilot jet is not clean.

The procycle kit is very good and it comes with all the goodies. The usual set up is with the needle at 4 down from the top with only an e-clip, nothing else. D-spacer goes in the bottom below the shelf. Air box top should be cut out, side door should be on. I like a 145 main jet or a 150 with exhaust, those are Mikuni jets. The PC kit comes with Mikuni jets.

Some guys try the 3rd notch or middle setting on the needle, that caused too much surging for me. The BST will surge and buck some when your below 2,000 rpm, just the nature of a vacuum carb. Make sure the hose is on the air box, vents lines are not kinked etc. 1 1/2 turns out on the pilot screw from lightly seated is usually best for most.

If its lean, I would replace the pilot jet with a new stock one, set the needle at 4, set the float height at .58", make sure the o-rings on the float assembly are in good shape and not dried out. There is a vendor here that sells the parts for the BST.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:38 PM   #88
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Thanks for the prompt reply!
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
The jet kit was probably installed to fix a running issue. I bet the pilot jet is not clean.

The procycle kit is very good and it comes with all the goodies. The usual set up is with the needle at 4 down from the top with only an e-clip, nothing else. D-spacer goes in the bottom below the shelf. Whats a D-spacer? Air box top should be cut out top is cut out but I just put some duct tape ovre half the airbox to see if it helps because it is lean, side door should be on side door on. I like a 145 main jet or a 150 with exhaust, those are Mikuni jets. The PC kit comes with Mikuni jets.

Some guys try the 3rd notch or middle setting on the needle, that caused too much surging for me. The BST will surge and buck some when your below 2,000 rpm, just the nature of a vacuum carb. Make sure the hose is on the air box, vents lines are not kinked etc. 1 1/2 turns out on the pilot screw from lightly seated is usually best for most.

If its lean, I would replace the pilot jet with a new stock one Suzuki stock?, set the needle at 4, set the float height at .58" never done this before.., make sure the o-rings on the float assembly are in good shape and not dried out. There is a vendor here that sells the parts for the BST.
I would also add that I just looked and the exhaust is drilled, I thought it seemed a little loud. Should there be a lot of pressure coming out of the exhaust? I put my hand over the exhaust and the bike cuts off.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:44 PM   #89
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Thanks for the prompt reply!

I would also add that I just looked and the exhaust is drilled, I thought it seemed a little loud. Should there be a lot of pressure coming out of the exhaust? I put my hand over the exhaust and the bike cuts off.
Who knows, guys really do stupid things to bikes.... maybe not as bad as KLR owners...

Look into Kientech for exhaust ideas, I'm running a GSXR exhaust.
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:56 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I would also add that I just looked and the exhaust is drilled, I thought it seemed a little loud. Should there be a lot of pressure coming out of the exhaust? I put my hand over the exhaust and the bike cuts off.
Sounds fine.
Now to find out what's inside the carb.
There should be an e-clip with small washer under it on the needle and nothing else.
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