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Old 12-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #106
basketcase
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Location: Fading...
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Installed 35F0x can - rejetting suggestions or thoughts?

I ran up on a 35F0x can locally and have it installed with the stock header and the 2-bros midpipe. Here is the set-up as it is currently parked in the carport:

Stock carb and needle
Extended mixture screw
Slide drilled
Snorkel pulled

No other mods to fuel or intake system.

Since installing the new can the bike idles fast after it is warmed up. I expect I can take care of that with the mixture screw and the idle adjustment. But I've not run a tank of fuel through it or pulled the plugs to get a read on whether it is now running lean.

Before I get into all that, what suggestions can the brain trust provide about possible jetting changes?

Thanks in advance,
Rick
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:40 PM   #107
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155 jet without snorkel, 160 without side cover. Thats what I've come up with from my experience. Ive just installed a gsxr so we will see how that goes with the 160.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:20 PM   #108
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As long as you keep the air box intact your fine. The exhaust doesn't add air so its fine. But, your missing out on things. Add a TM40 and cut the air box.

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Old 12-23-2012, 08:48 PM   #109
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That'd be great! anybody wanna donate one? Haven't looked into getting one too much, what are the advantages?
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:15 PM   #110
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BST carb - Off-idle bog issues and things to check:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=74911
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:38 PM   #111
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Not sure where to put this so I'll put it here.

My choke is hanging up, I've cleaned out the "well" in the carb a couple of times and it helps but it only lasts a little while. I've been starting without the choke all summer but it's getting cold, time to fix it.

Am I more likely fighting crud in the choke well or a dodgy cable that needs to be replaced with a push/pull knob from Procycle?

The Procycle knob looks to be recessed, is it difficult to actuate?
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:54 PM   #112
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Yep some oem cables get sticky. I'm still using the original on my 07 and I lived on the coast also.

If mine goes bad I'll get the short one from Procycle. PC also has metal choke nuts that replace the easy to strip plastic ones....
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Old 03-01-2014, 10:24 PM   #113
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This tapered piece has been found in an occasional float bowl. (photo thanks to Alanthealan)


It goes here. From Motolab: "The tapered end goes in first. It may want to fall out again. If it does, try a little bit of super glue."
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:28 PM   #114
BergDonk
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We've got an DR650SE FCR thread going over on the Oz forum:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=958369

A few of us have started off with MXRob's specs, but have moved on. Might be the coriolis effect, or different fuel, dunno.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:15 PM   #115
Tinker1980
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I have a nicely farkled 2009 DR650, and while it runs like striped ass gorilla, I find I am not getting the gas mileage mentioned other places for this bike. My mods include:

Tm40 carb
Header pipe, I believe it is an FMF.
Supertrapp muffler with 9 plates
Side cover removed from airbox.

The best I can seem to get is 39 mpg. No fuel in the oil, no problems other than an occasional issue with extended idling. I weigh 230 and tend to run a bit too fast (70-75 mph) on the highway.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:35 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker1980 View Post
I have a nicely farkled 2009 DR650, and while it runs like striped ass gorilla, I find I am not getting the gas mileage mentioned other places for this bike. My mods include:

Tm40 carb
Header pipe, I believe it is an FMF.
Supertrapp muffler with 9 plates
Side cover removed from airbox.

The best I can seem to get is 39 mpg. No fuel in the oil, no problems other than an occasional issue with extended idling. I weigh 230 and tend to run a bit too fast (70-75 mph) on the highway.
tires?
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Old 06-07-2014, 02:47 AM   #117
Tinker1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
tires?
Shinko 705's, for now. Aired up properly as well.
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:33 AM   #118
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker1980 View Post
Shinko 705's, for now. Aired up properly as well.
What pressure is "properly"?
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:09 AM   #119
Tinker1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
What pressure is "properly"?
35 front 35 rear.

I was incorrect about the air box - the side cover is present, the top is cut out. I think the problem may have been my air filter - I took it out today after riding home from work, and went to clean it (K&N) and it nearly held water. Got it soaped and cleaned out, it is drying out right now. I'll oil it up and run a tankful or two through it to see if there is a change, but I'm betting there will be a noticeable change in the idle.
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:23 AM   #120
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Fuel/float level quick check method

I have used the following method of checking the fuel level of a couple of DRs recently. It's a handy way to check, compare or establish a baseline to reference later. The picture shows the stock BST carb but any carb with a drain nipple and screw on the bowl will work. Attach a length of clear tubing and loop it upwards and hold it there by whatever means. The upper end of the tubing is left open. Now open the drain screw on the carb bowl and set your petcock to prime (if stock) or on/res (if aftermarket). Allow any air bubbles to clear and view the fuel level. Be sure to level the bike and square-up your camera to avoid distortion when registering the level relative to features on the carb body.

You still may need to open the carb to adjust the float height if yours seems to be far from the image shown but at least you know before hand.
I have not checked the float height on either of the bikes mentioned by traditional means in well over 30k miles each so there is no assurance that they are still within the acceptable range. That being said, I have had no issues that would indicate a problem and so it serves as a sound baseline check for me.
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