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Old 06-19-2014, 04:36 AM   #121
Tinker1980
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Location: Nowhere, OK
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So, as I was destroying my countersink bit trying to countersink the stainless sprocket I made, I discovered something that I think is contributing to my bad fuel mileage.

I happened to turn toward the bike just in time to see gasoline spray onto the ground, exactly as if my DR was a horse, taking a leak. I was a few feet away, and didn't see what it came from, but it looked like airbox area, behind the carb.

This bike has a TM40 on it, and when I went to check it, I noticed the petcock was open. This is a non-vacuum petcock on an IMS tank, on is really ON even without the engine running. Engine was cold, but had recently been started to move it into the shop, and about 40 miles shy of a full tank.



Does anyone know where I should look?
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:16 PM   #122
jb7
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TM40 AP rod

Was checking the gap on the AP rod and the actuating lever on my new TM40, and noticed that the rod doesn't return to the fully up position after the initial AP stroke. It stays down off of the lever about 5-6mm which causes it not to work till past 1/4 throttle. I can move the rod back up with my finger, but after it actuates the AP the first time it stays down. Anyone else ever see this?
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:45 AM   #123
eakins
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Originally Posted by dflow View Post
I have used the following method of checking the fuel level of a couple of DRs recently. It's a handy way to check, compare or establish a baseline to reference later. The picture shows the stock BST carb but any carb with a drain nipple and screw on the bowl will work. Attach a length of clear tubing and loop it upwards and hold it there by whatever means. The upper end of the tubing is left open. Now open the drain screw on the carb bowl and set your petcock to prime (if stock) or on/res (if aftermarket). Allow any air bubbles to clear and view the fuel level. Be sure to level the bike and square-up your camera to avoid distortion when registering the level relative to features on the carb body.

You still may need to open the carb to adjust the float height if yours seems to be far from the image shown but at least you know before hand.
I have not checked the float height on either of the bikes mentioned by traditional means in well over 30k miles each so there is no assurance that they are still within the acceptable range. That being said, I have had no issues that would indicate a problem and so it serves as a sound baseline check for me.
Nice method. Would be sweet if someone verified their float to be exact factory spec & then took that pic. That would give all of of best users a visual baseline & fast check 1st step in tuning.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:35 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb7 View Post
Was checking the gap on the AP rod and the actuating lever on my new TM40, and noticed that the rod doesn't return to the fully up position after the initial AP stroke. It stays down off of the lever about 5-6mm which causes it not to work till past 1/4 throttle. I can move the rod back up with my finger, but after it actuates the AP the first time it stays down. Anyone else ever see this?

Update. After a closer inspection, I found that the edge of the rubber boot between the airbox and the carb was actually pressing on the lower section of the AP rod preventing it from fully returning to the up position. Working correctly now.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:42 AM   #125
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
BST carb - Off-idle bog issues and things to check:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=74911
Dang it Im still missing out on all the BST issues,mine still doesnt bog,the plugs have great color,the bike pulls to 90 mph quick enough and gets 50mpg most all the time.
Ive never even drilled the plug out over the fuel screw,so its all oem settings.
Even the snorkle still sits there,smirking at me. And works great in deep water and at keeping dust out of the airbox.


Must be a freak of nature to still be running great at 29,000 miles with no airbox/exhaust/carb work?
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:46 AM   #126
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by Tinker1980 View Post
35 front 35 rear.

I was incorrect about the air box - the side cover is present, the top is cut out. I think the problem may have been my air filter - I took it out today after riding home from work, and went to clean it (K&N) and it nearly held water. Got it soaped and cleaned out, it is drying out right now. I'll oil it up and run a tankful or two through it to see if there is a change, but I'm betting there will be a noticeable change in the idle.
On the swingarm ,there is a sticker. I just looked at it the other day. Factory says 22psi for solo,25psi for passenger.

I have been running 29psi with the shinkos on my DR,might try the 23

as a happy medium between dirt roads and pavemento,nicer ride on sharp bumps and all.
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Foot dragger screwed with this post 07-17-2014 at 05:51 PM
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:23 AM   #127
SDIZZY
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fuel screw

Hey all, I bought my 09 used, and pretty sure the PO did some jetting, I know the airbox has been cut and a K&n filter.

Anyone have a photo of where I can find fuel screw, to determine if it has been drilled or no? I'll be chaning the plugs and washing the air filter this weekend.

I get about 42mpg, sea level.
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:54 AM   #128
kezzajohnson
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Originally Posted by SDIZZY View Post
Hey all, I bought my 09 used, and pretty sure the PO did some jetting, I know the airbox has been cut and a K&n filter.

Anyone have a photo of where I can find fuel screw, to determine if it has been drilled or no? I'll be chaning the plugs and washing the air filter this weekend.

I get about 42mpg, sea level.
Stolen from the internet, but this photo shows where the fuel screw is assuming you have the stock BST40 carby. This carby in the photo has an extended screw fitted after being unplugged.

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Old 07-17-2014, 04:16 PM   #129
SDIZZY
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Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Stolen from the internet, but this photo shows where the fuel screw is assuming you have the stock BST40 carby. This carby in the photo has an extended screw fitted after being unplugged.

Ok I'm looking at mine, there's no screw there but I see threads. Maybe PO did it and it fell out?

Someone wrote on the carb there "2 1/2 out"

Am I missing pieces?



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Old 07-17-2014, 04:30 PM   #130
BergDonk
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Kezza's pic has a lengthened aftermarket screw fitted. Yours should have a screw 'up the hole' which is a bit hard to get to, hence the use of the aftermarket fix.
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:48 PM   #131
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDIZZY View Post
Ok I'm looking at mine, there's no screw there but I see threads. Maybe PO did it and it fell out?

Someone wrote on the carb there "2 1/2 out"

Am I missing pieces?
There's a complete description, with photos of what you need, in post #71 of this thread.
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