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Old 02-09-2011, 10:22 AM   #31
NJ-Brett
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Southern New Jersey
Oddometer: 6,118
1998 with 6000 miles on it and the front brake pads wore out!
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:41 PM   #32
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Starter Squall on 'Coast Down'

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=41763

Thupididump did a photo shoot when he lubed his starter.
http://motorcycle-junkie.blogspot.co...-easy-fix.html

Greystoke's write-up.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832297
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2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 10-24-2012 at 10:57 AM
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:23 AM   #33
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett View Post
1998 with 6000 miles on it and the front brake pads wore out!
i hear ya. my tires continue to wear out prematurely. waaay before 10k
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:34 AM   #34
00Buck
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: South Vancouver Island, BC
Oddometer: 195
The usual minor issues on my '03 DR650 with 45K. I bought it used in '04 with 3K on it completely stock. It's never seen a dealer, I do all the service and repairs. I love the simplicity and reliability of this model!
Base gasket leak at 10K. Fork seals twice, rear tail light fell apart- replaced with a DR250 light. Choke cable sticking partly closed- replaced with a part from Jesse. Red stop switch sticks in so I don't use it. Original battery failed last year. Recently the starter is squawking on coast down so I'll have to pull and lube the bushings. I have a lot of accessories and upgrades on my bike now. It serves as both a supermoto and adventure tourer depending on the current setup.
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:18 AM   #35
Retrolaw
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Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket - Oil Leak

Gosh, I wish I had found this website sooner!!

I have a 2002 DR650SE. It hadn't been ridden much by the previous owners, thats why it's only got 23000km on the clock now. I bought it 2 years ago with 13000km on the clock! Anyway, I noticed oil on the right side crank case cover.

I washed the bike and took it for a short ride, to see where the oil was coming from. It seemed to be from the back of the cylinder base gasket. So I bought all the gaskets and copper washers that would need to be replaced, to get to the cylinder base gasket. Imagine my disappointment when I stripped everything and found that the little gasket under the cam chain tensioner had a crack in the top half. The oil was running down the left side of the CCT and onto the crank case, just below it, right at the join of the cylinder barrel and the crank case. I didn't notice this, as I only ever looked from the right side of the engine.

I took the opportunity to get to the neutral light switch and put some service grade locktite on the little screws. The service grade locktite allows you to unscrew the screws, in case you ever need to.

My cousin in Townsville Australia, sent me a link to this site. He knew about my bike's oil leak and found a thread where the chap had sprinkled talc powder on the engine, to show more easily where the oil was coming from.

Well the experience gave me an opportunity to check inside the engine and see how the bore and valves were doing. Still only has the criss-cross from the honing in it. I'll feel a lot more confident when we ride from Pietermaritzburg, up to Maputo and back, in June :-)
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:28 PM   #36
Eggsontoast
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Location: Dad's sack
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I've had a few issues on my '96 SE, namely a weeping magneto gasket which put an end to my day when the whole contents started pissing out on to the rear tire.

The horn became intermittent because of the positioning of the female spade connectors. Make sure you route the wiring back on itself, on the rear side of the horn's mounting bracket to prevent premature life.

The cylinder base gasket did blow: what started as a weep became a gentle trickle.

First gear on the driveshaft has worn away it's engagement channels as have the clutch dogs on 5th. Third gear has worn and ground itself past the hardening. Tin or plasma coatings would significantly increase fatigue life.

The seat has developed a rip where the main cover joins your inside leg, general wear and tear.

The exhaust's mid pipe bracket has cracked, which is easily fixed by fabricating an equivalent bracket out of some mild steel and welding it back together. I used my tig welder. (Aftermarket exhaust)

The rubber seal beneath the petrol cap is starting to crack.

Really that's about it, so overall she's a good'un.

Pat
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Eggsontoast screwed with this post 04-21-2011 at 12:38 PM
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Old 04-21-2011, 03:12 PM   #37
Krusty ... OP
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
Oddometer: 7,589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggsontoast View Post
I've had a few issues on my '96 SE, namely a weeping magneto gasket which put an end to my day when the whole contents started pissing out on to the rear tire.

The horn became intermittent because of the positioning of the female spade connectors. Make sure you route the wiring back on itself, on the rear side of the horn's mounting bracket to prevent premature life.

The cylinder base gasket did blow: what started as a weep became a gentle trickle.

First gear on the driveshaft has worn away it's engagement channels as have the clutch dogs on 5th. Third gear has worn and ground itself past the hardening. Tin or plasma coatings would significantly increase fatigue life.

The seat has developed a rip where the main cover joins your inside leg, general wear and tear.

The exhaust's mid pipe bracket has cracked, which is easily fixed by fabricating an equivalent bracket out of some mild steel and welding it back together. I used my tig welder. (Aftermarket exhaust)

The rubber seal beneath the petrol cap is starting to crack.

Really that's about it, so overall she's a good'un.

Pat

How many miles/km on your DR, Pat? What kind of riding do you mostly do?
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
"...choosing a DR indicates an affinity for peace, harmony and enlightenment. Serenity lies in accepting it as it is, changing what you want, and the wisdom of knowing it ain't orange." -psmcd
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:30 PM   #38
Eggsontoast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty ... View Post
How many miles/km on your DR, Pat? What kind of riding do you mostly do?
46,000 miles or 73,600 Km's

Mostly hard road miles: I work as a courier. I'm not going to lie and say the bike has an easy life because she hasn't but considering the use she's put through either as work or leisure, she's been good. I have taken her off-road and plan on doing so in the near future. The stop and start here in London is what's chewed 1st gear, you'd be fine if you were to ride the bike normally and in all the gears on an open road. Incendentally the gear ratios between 1st and 2nd is quite significant so the "jump" will have a certain part in it, all things considered it has to be a compromise between on and off-road.

The clutch is still well within spec, excellent if you ask me.

Would I recommend a DR650? Absolutely, in fact there is not one current bike out there that can really do anything better than the DR either on road or dirt, the DR is just right for both disciplines. I do hope that one day Suzuki comes out with the equivalent modern counterpart but even if they did I wouldn't sell the DR.

Pat
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Eggsontoast screwed with this post 04-21-2011 at 05:58 PM
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:10 PM   #39
GISdood
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Prince George, BC
Oddometer: 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
REMOVE THE UPPER CHAIN ROLLER.
+1 and then some.

I was kind of on the fence about this one, and in prep for a road trip last summer I replaced both upper and lower rollers with new bearing-style rollers. About 5000km later, winter rolled around and I decided to tear the DR down to the frame. This is what the rollers looked like. Lower on the left, upper on the right:


The evidence of excessive pressure and wear on the upper roller is pretty damn obvious considering they were both installed at the same time. Needless to say, that upper roller is NOT going back in the frame as I build it back up.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:29 PM   #40
ER70S-2
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Thumb

GISdood:
Damn!! Hard to argue with that.
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2004 DR650: 59,658 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:54 AM   #41
GISdood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
GISdood:
Damn!! Hard to argue with that.
Indeed. One other thing to note regarding the wear on that roller - those 5000 km were ALL highway road trip or commuter miles. No hard hits, no rough roads, no dirt. Just pavement.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:48 PM   #42
CoastMountainGuy
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Pemberton, BC
Oddometer: 71
Clutch cables! For some reason, I'm on my third clutch cable on my '09 with just over 16000km on the odometer. The first was the bike's original that snapped out of the blue and the second cable snapped in the same place (right up near the clutch lever) after being replaced by me as per the manual's instructions in regards to play/slack/etc... These two cables broke within a week of one another and the second was a MotionPro replacement part. This cable was replaced under warranty, but now a third cable has snapped on me just a couple of weeks ago! I'm beginning to suspect a problem with my clutch mount and/or lever... Any ideas?
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:11 PM   #43
ER70S-2
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Lube the cable ball, if it isn't rotating when you pull the lever, snap-O. Maybe? Lube the one on the bottom, too. Never thought it would happen so soon though.

And I have the same cleaning schedule as your sig. Well, except that the blue ones are fastest.
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2004 DR650: 59,658 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-28-2011, 05:12 AM   #44
rivercreep
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Location: S.E. Pennsylvania (Reading)
Oddometer: 3,243
Tips/tricks

My first was a 91, second a 97 (with paper gaskets) and they never failed, even after 50,000 miles of use. Nor did I have any upper roller problems. (third was an 09 that was stolen after 13,000 miles)
An old mechanics trick for air cooled VW engines was to always retorque the jug/head bolts to spec after break in. That's what I did on my first 2 DRs. (resultingly, never had a gasket failure)
Since I didn't have access to the internet back in 97, I never knew about the NSU screws and got lucky I guess. (when I bought my 09, I did loc-tite them).
In regards to the 96+ upper roller bearings, since I learned on the 91 that Suzuki doesn't know what grease is, while I had everything apart anyway to regrease things...Upon reassembly and with the shock still off, I ran the swingarm through it's range of travel to check for proper chain tension.
What I found out is that Suzukis recommended settings are too tight (with the upper chain roller in place) so that it binds.

I set the chain to proper tension (looks incredibly loose compared to their specs while at rest) so that it was just snug while going through its tightest range of travel (when it contacts the upper roller which I left in place).
Those rollers keep your chain from jumping off the front sprocket when you have your chain adjusted properly with the upper roller in place.
That's its purpose. (a purpose un-needed if you remove the roller and keep the spec set to their original specs)
It really is a catch 22 deal. Because, without the roller in place, you can set the chain spec to suzukis recommended specs and be good. With it in place, you have to set it loose to avoid binding and utilize the roller to keep the chain from jumping teeth.
Basicly, I'm posting this to show you have 2 choices for chain spec with or without rollers. (50,000 miles with no broken pieces showed me it was possible to leave the rollers intact without issue)(but you need to take the time to run the swing arm through it's range of motion to adjust the chain properly)
I wont argue the above...I'm not disagreeing with the anti-roller crowd, just showing there are 2 options for adjustments and no problems. B.T.W. I'm fat and always bottomed out the stock suspension and put stress on those components.

Another tip for the back country....
Carry a hacksaw (or blade and vise grips) enough rubber hose of the right diameter, and 2 hose clamps and a screwdriver.
Reason, if you smash a hole in that tiny little oil cooler, you can mcguyver a bypass and easily get home without the cooler. I managed to do that on the old 91 and used her for around 10,000 miles with no oil cooler at all. (you can do the same fo the 96+)

Biggest problem area I've ever had with any of my DR's were loose head bearings. Give the things about 1,ooo miles of break in and then retorque things there as well.

I'm most curious about those of you who have had electrical issues.
I always ran grip heaters, 80/100watt headlight bulbs and even an aux 50watt fog light at times and never had any issues with batteries or anything else.
Makes me wonder IF the DR doesn't do better with a larger load on it's system. (note: I rode almost every day and the battery was always fully charged)
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Old 04-28-2011, 05:50 AM   #45
bumblebee1
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Good info.
I'm a bit confused here.
What's a head bearing?
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