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Old 05-08-2012, 03:39 AM   #76
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
Ok I have really no problems except ones I created myself __user Error_.

Only complaint with this great bike is my balls are glowing blue cold after a ride in temps under 45 degrees F.

I mean really,.. I could chill a pineapple with my balls after a ride. All other body parts are just fine...

Bike just keeps going. Did the NSU screws and the chain roller only. The head gasket shows black stuff from by the sparkplugs but besides that my bike is the shit.


Ball freezing boulder..

One cold pineapple, but how many people would be actually eating it?
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:51 PM   #77
smilin jack
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,225
Pick-up Coil went bad and replaced it

See post #64401 on page 4294.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...5295&page=4294

I wrote up a step by step with a few photos of how I did it. I learned from reading other's posts of how they replaced the pick-up coil.

Dave
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:15 PM   #78
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 2,997
Countershaft Seal

Its not unknown for these to pop out. It happened to me, and I posted about it on #197 here where I developed a fix:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...646076&page=14

I subsequently came up with a MkII version that amost anyone can make themselves if they'd like the insurance. Scroll down to #252 here and 'roll' your own:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...646076&page=17

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Old 09-28-2012, 12:14 PM   #79
Bronco638
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,496
Just curious Steve, why not make one out of steel, similar to this one?

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Old 09-29-2012, 01:54 AM   #80
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Just curious Steve, why not make one out of steel, similar to this one?
It just seemed easier on the day with what I had to hand. Ultimately, numerous ways to do this, and its the end result thats important. For me right now, my seal won't fall out again.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:02 AM   #81
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk
It just seemed easier on the day with what I had to hand. Ultimately, numerous ways to do this, and its the end result that's important.
Sounds like I have another thing to add to my winter Project list.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk
For me right now, my seal won't fall out again.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:33 PM   #82
smilin jack
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,225
DR backfired and died

Here's the link to more info.

Post #70712 http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70712

Still trying to figure what caused the problem. Will report back later.

Dave
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:41 PM   #83
rhino_adv
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: central Illinois (Bloomington)
Oddometer: 626
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71tr View Post
I have a 2003 with about 5k miles complete with leaky base gasket. Recall Suzuki switched from a paper to a metal gasket in approximately '03. The leak acts like a pinhole spitting tiny droplets of oil as the motor revs. A nice bead of high temp silicone has effectively taken care of the problem. I'm planning to take this bike through South America next year and have no plans to replace the leaking gasket.


I had the same problem with a 2003 DR650 I purchased with 4400 miles. At around 5200 miles the cylinder base gasket started leaking. I power washed the engine and then cleaned the site with contact cleaner and dried it with a heat lamp. I applied a layer of hi temp silicon and allowed it to cure for a week. A year later the bike has 13300 miles and not leaking any oil from the base gasket.
I recomend this quick fix to anyone with a similar problem!


Brad
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:01 PM   #84
brianwheelies
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Joined: Aug 2005
Oddometer: 2,969
My 1997 had a few issues but it was rode hard but maintained well.

Over 80,000 miles before parting her out.

Blew out rear shock
Starter motor went due to cleaning the bike and not leaning it over to let the puddled water drain from the rubber o-rings of starter motor. It was corroded inside.
One can chain tensioner after replacing a gasket and stripping out the threads for the bolt in the end.
Rear brake caliper bracket broke while I was doing a set of rear brakes.
A few Teflon chain guides.
One speedometer.
I had a chain come off a knock a hole in my case.
Base gasket leaked eventually.

I think that was about it. Considering I rode a lot of high speed wheelies, topped it out often, rode desert, street, toured across the country a few timed, it acquitted itself very well.

Should I get another I could make it last indefinitely. I don't care to go as fast and the wheelie hormone seems to be in check.

Excellent machine.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:35 AM   #85
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob

-----------------------

JIS screwdrivers - http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc...-screwdrivers/
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JI.../dp/B005NIY3PM

the special tool for most is using a hand-hammer impact tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-93481.html - light duty one for smaller fasteners.
i've used a dremel tool in the past with a thin cutoff wheel and made a slot for a flathead screwdriver to work.

later found out the trick, if you only have Philips screwdrivers, is to use the next size smaller one (so it gets the tip down in deeper in the JIS screw) and tap it from the top with a hammer. this helps drive the tool head deeper into the screw and also shocks the screw some to loosen it. if the screw is somewhat buggered up, from previous attempts, tapping the screwdriver in harder can work. often the steel screw, alum. cap & brake res. main body somewhat fuse together if the fluid has never been serviced.

here is a way to modify Philips bits/screwdrivers to fit better in JIS:
http://www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tool...rewdriver-tips

when dealing with the JIS screws on the floatbowl, the same technique can be used but often those hand-hammered tools is key. that is 1 essential tool that every home mechanic should have! once you have those screws out replace with allen bolts from PC, Jesse or the hardware store.
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eakins screwed with this post 02-20-2013 at 10:09 AM
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:10 AM   #86
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,434
Start squeal noise and fixes
http://www.fy-yff.com/2011/08/squeak...-easy-fix.html
http://webpages.charter.net/jrandall...tarter_fix.htm
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832297
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:44 PM   #87
bobzilla
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Lost & Found again in the Great Basin
Oddometer: 870
NS switch

Is there any down side to completely removing the nuteral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:06 PM   #88
Toscana1
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado. Heaven only gets close.
Oddometer: 30
Torque limiter replacement.

Any guidance to a good tutorial on replacing the problematic '98-'99 torque limiter. One that shows from start to finish hopefully? I've read tons of posts, stories, etc. on ADV, ThumperTalk and DRRiders but haven't been able to find a step-by-step on how to do the upgrade. Any links would be appreciated, thanks.
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:20 PM   #89
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,944
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toscana1 View Post
Any guidance to a good tutorial on replacing the problematic '98-'99 torque limiter. One that shows from start to finish hopefully? I've read tons of posts, stories, etc. on ADV, ThumperTalk and DRRiders but haven't been able to find a step-by-step on how to do the upgrade. Any links would be appreciated, thanks.
Meaning no disrespect. Your signature:
"Never be afraid to try something new. Remember it was a lone amateur that built the Ark and a large team of professionals that built the Titanic." Dave Barry

I've never done the project, you've done your homework, jump in, take photos. Remove cover: I'd do this with the bike on the sidestand, there are one or two washers inside the cover and you want them falling to the left if they don't stick to the cover (oil friction). Once you find 3 & 5, you can straighten the bike to vertical, making access easier. Scrape gasket, be patient, gaskets can be a PITA to remove, you don't want to nick the gasket surface with a scraper. Remove old, install new torque limiter. Grease gasket, install cover. Use a light coat of grease when re-installing the gasket, not RTV or similar.

I'm assuming this isn't your primary transportation, that you already have the basic tools needed and this isn't the first time you've used tools. Regardless, don't be in a hurry when you start and have a new gasket on hand, just in case the old one breaks.

Make sure to account for parts 3 and 5. There's a pair of each, one inside, another outside. It seems most likely that #5 will stay in their bosses due to oil suction.



You've probably already seen this pic. There isn't much involved.

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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:10 PM   #90
Toscana1
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado. Heaven only gets close.
Oddometer: 30
Thanks much. The photo helps, I had not seen it before. I have the tools, fairly competent with them, and have a loaner lift. I figured I'd do the NSU fix (mine were barely finger tight) while it was drained and on the lift.
My biggest question was exactly where the torque limiter was. The photo helped identify the culprit, thanks. Now to check it and get the proper one ordered.
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