ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-01-2013, 09:41 PM   #91
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,893
You got through the NSU, the torque limiter will be a snap.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2013, 05:17 AM   #92
Krusty ... OP
What? Me hurry?
 
Krusty ...'s Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
Oddometer: 7,600
Here's a guide to thread locking compounds and their different applications. Useful to know for the NSU fix, and many other instances. Thanks 955626846

Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Yep, "red" Loctite seems to be the internet cure all with little regard to the suitability for the application. They are often misused by the "experts" in more applications than just thread locking.

"Red"usually refers to Loctite 263, 270, 271 or 272 thread lockers which will work, but those screws will never be coming out... There is little on these bikes that should require such heavy handed treatment.

"Blue" usually refers to Loctite 242 or 243 - it's a red bottle, likely with a blue band and has blue contents. It is all that is ever required on a bike for bolts M6 and over. Use 242 or 243 on the NSU screws. It will also serve on much of the rest of the bike...

The other tool in the box is Loctite 222 (Purple) for small bolts or bolts that do not take a lot of torque. It is used as a light thread retainer.

Loctite US sites:
Retail: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_l...r-Blue-242.htm
Industrial: http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/p...ode%3Dfaceted|

The Au site might be a little easier as a guide.
http://au.iloctite.com/en/loctite-22...-threadlockers



This Permatex product is the equivalent to Loctite 242/243
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...er-blue-detail

This Permatex product is the equivalent to Loctite 222
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...-purple-detail
__________________
SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
"...choosing a DR indicates an affinity for peace, harmony and enlightenment. Serenity lies in accepting it as it is, changing what you want, and the wisdom of knowing it ain't orange." -psmcd

Krusty ... screwed with this post 06-04-2013 at 05:26 AM
Krusty ... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2013, 08:28 AM   #93
Krusty ... OP
What? Me hurry?
 
Krusty ...'s Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
Oddometer: 7,600
As mentioned, there have been a small number of DR650's that have developed oil leaks from the output shaft gasket. Replacing this seal used to be troublesome, as the replacemet gasket would just pop out from oil pressure. Stealing a page from BergDonk's play book, Suzuki has released the fix/preventative: an output shaft seal retainer. The part number is 24751-32E00, and it's an inexpensive piece.
Thanks to 996DL for passing along that P/N...
__________________
SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
"...choosing a DR indicates an affinity for peace, harmony and enlightenment. Serenity lies in accepting it as it is, changing what you want, and the wisdom of knowing it ain't orange." -psmcd
Krusty ... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2013, 08:36 AM   #94
eakins
Butler Maps
 
eakins's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 19,247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty ... View Post
As mentioned, there have been a small number of DR650's that have developed oil leaks from the output shaft gasket. Replacing this seal used to be troublesome, as the replacemet gasket would just pop out from oil pressure. Stealing a page from BergDonk's play book, Suzuki has released the fix/preventative: an output shaft seal retainer. The part number is 24751-32E00, and it's an inexpensive piece.
Thanks to 996DL for passing along that P/N...
i'm seeing less than $15 for the part.
it's a no-brainer for every DR owner.

http://drriders.com/topic6575-160.html

is there a torque spec for those 2 bolts that get reinstalled???
__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
Alaska
NM map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Butler Maps website:
http://www.butlermaps.com
eakins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 10:28 PM   #95
8gv
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,478
How to bypass sidestand switch...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...nHPE6RokJqOt_g

It has been brought to my attention that one may encounter a different style of connector than what is seen in this video. One inmate cut the wires, spliced and insulated them. YMMV

8gv screwed with this post 07-19-2013 at 04:15 PM
8gv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 11:24 PM   #96
smilin jack
Grandpa Adventurer
 
smilin jack's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,229
Backfired and died on road

Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Here's the link to more info.

Post #70712 http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70712

Still trying to figure what caused the problem. Will report back later.

Dave
Oops, just now reporting back. Tore the bike apart, tracing the wiring harness. When the wires behind the headlight were wiggled, the engine would run. After trying this several times, it was noticed one of the plugs was getting HOT. Killed the engine and started looking closer.

By chance, after tracing the wire from the hot connector behind the headlight clear to the left passenger footpeg, there was no insulation on the wire heading to the tail light. It was rubbing on the inside of the passenger peg and shorting out. That caused low voltage to the CDI box.

The insulation was off for a few inches and the stranded wire was down to only a few strands. Got out the soldering gun and twisted more wire around it and soldered in place. Lots of tape and a section of cable protector was applied.

No problems since then (Oct 2012 to now April 2014= 61.5K miles now).

Dave

smilin jack screwed with this post 04-20-2014 at 06:23 PM
smilin jack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2013, 04:22 AM   #97
greer
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
Oddometer: 3,835
Thanks for the follow-up Dave; I'll check my wiring this morning.

Sarah
__________________
'08 DR650
greer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2013, 12:20 PM   #98
Krusty ... OP
What? Me hurry?
 
Krusty ...'s Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
Oddometer: 7,600
squawk-no-more

Many DR650 owners are familiar with the distressingly noisy squawking the starter can emit, especially in cooler weather. While more of an annoyance than a problem, the fix has arrived...

Warp9 Racing has jumped into the DR650 aftermarket with both feet, and one of their many upgrades is a ball bearing starter cap that replaces the Suzuki brass bearing cap.

And if you haven't sent Procycle enough money lately, all the new Warp9 DR650 parts are available there.

__________________
SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
"...choosing a DR indicates an affinity for peace, harmony and enlightenment. Serenity lies in accepting it as it is, changing what you want, and the wisdom of knowing it ain't orange." -psmcd
Krusty ... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2013, 12:52 PM   #99
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,893
Clutch dragging: Hard to find neutral

Copied from the big DR thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Wear in the thrust washer behind the clutch basket can cause the clutch to drag. Heat in the clutch assembly can take away the small amount of clearance.
See this thread over on DRriders.com --> http://drriders.com/topic6671.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I would replace #s 2,3 and 8 from this diagram


I would also apply some 'wicking grade' Locktite between the shaft and bearing behind the clutch.

By the way, this is a known problem with DR350s which have the same design.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 09-23-2013 at 01:04 PM
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2013, 12:10 PM   #100
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,893
Clutch Lever Safety Switch / Bypass



I decided to keep the safety switch, but it did fail sometime after 50k miles, the bike wouldn't start. Since I was home, it was a non-event.

Dirty:


Cleaned:




__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-04-2014 at 11:54 AM
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 07:03 PM   #101
00Buck
dirt rules
 
00Buck's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: South Vancouver Island, BC
Oddometer: 202
My '08 with 22,000 km has the distressing starter squawk, especially when cold. I see Warp9 has the fix. But could I remove the cover and apply light grease to the bushing if it is not badly worn? Wondering how long that will last.
__________________
,
Mike
00Buck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 07:07 PM   #102
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,790
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Buck View Post
My '08 with 22,000 km has the distressing starter squawk, especially when cold. I see Warp9 has the fix. But could I remove the cover and apply light grease to the bushing if it is not badly worn? Wondering how long that will last.
They are a sintered bronze bush so designed to be soaked in oil. I feel a lighetr oil is preferred, like ATF. Pour some in and leave overnight, then drain off the excess.

They will squeak and carry on for years without maintenance and little further wear though, and the Warp9 fix is even better I reckon.
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 07:49 PM   #103
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,893
Mine started squawking at about 10k miles and I didn't get around to greasing it until 15k. It was silent from 15-50k. My CCT started leaking at 50k so I greased the starter again while I had things apart.

Warp 9 hadn't discovered the DR yet.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2014, 10:44 PM   #104
REALGRAVEROBBER
LEAVING GRAVES EMPTY
 
REALGRAVEROBBER's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Missoula, Montana
Oddometer: 366
My friend had 2 countershaft seals fall out (literally) of his 2013 Dr650's within a few hundred miles of each other.

Procycle sells this for $23:



Their website is: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr6...l#sealretainer

Get a seal retainer! Avoid being stuck like my friend from New Zealand, coming all the way here, kitting up 2 new dr650's and being stuck waiting for Suzuki America (a week or three) to respond:

__________________
We have a lot to do with how the world receives us.

Dr. Frazier Writing
REALGRAVEROBBER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 12:29 PM   #105
Emmbeedee
Procrastinators
 
Emmbeedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,841
DR650SE Index Topic#13- PROBLEMS/FAILURES

The Pickup/Pulser Coil Problem: as most of you already know, the pickup (aka pulser) coil is weak on the DR650 and can die overnight, all on its own. You ride the bike one day and it's running like a clock, shut it off and the next morning it won't fire at all.

Happened to a lot of us, and two out of our three bikes here have now had it happen.

This is not a complete how to, but it details some observations I made, and pictures I took today while doing my second one.

The best way to find out if your pickup coil is defective is to do a continuity/resistance test on the coil by using the wires where they connect to the CDI so pull off the seat and get the connector off.

The green/blue wires are to be tested. Unfortunately they are in the "female" side of the connector so you need a way of connecting to them, and I used this to do so:

Heavy Duty staples are perfect for the job.



Just straighten out one leg, then push the straight end into the green and blue sides of the connector block.



As you can see here, the resistance was far too high.



So I tore into it, but I wanted to minimize the amount of dismantling so I left all the wiring in place and turned the cover around to get the pickup coil off. When it came time to get the old pickup coil securing screws off , I needed to use the impact driver so I created a platform close to the bike by using a stepladder I happened to have around, and a couple of blocks of wood. This way the screws came out immediately. No rounded heads, as can happen if you don't use the right tools for the job.








The rest of the job was fairly straightforward: I cut off the green and blue wires and wired in the new coil, with its white/red wire to the green on the bike, and the blue to the other colour. I cleaned out the mounting screw holes and the screws, put some blue Loctite on them and reassembled the parts, and it fired right up almost immediately.

I ran another resistance test on the new coil and it measured virtually no resistance on the 100K scale. .

Note to the wise: When you screw down the pickup coil, make sure it's pushed as far away as possible from the stator as there is enough play in the mounting holes that if you don't push it, it may rub lightly but annoyingly on the rotor once the whole thing is back together. AMHIK

Yay!

Time now to order a couple more pickup coils. They are so small, you can keep one in your bike tool kit.

In Canada, you can get the pickup coil for $29 US at RMStator in Quebec.

Here's another site in the US selling the pickup coil: Regulatorrectifier.com
__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.

Emmbeedee screwed with this post 05-18-2015 at 06:35 PM
Emmbeedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015