DR650SE Index Topic #15- LINKS, WRITE-UPS & PICTORIALS

[ag_streak]

Boy, I'd really love to get my hands on Peter Egan's August 2007 article praising the DR650!

Can anyone scan the article? It was only one page.

I can't find anything on-line.

[buick driver]

Helpful people here
DR - ThumperTalk
www.DRRiders.com

[Krusty ...]

Dongie's outstanding build-up :
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654953

[Sleepy John]

Nathan and Elena's Aussie Ride-About... Legend!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...2#post14321492

[eakins]

Front suspension – 10.2” travel = race sag 2.5”, 30mm static
Rear suspension – 8.7” travel = race sag 2.2”, 25mm

Spark plug – 8 ftlbs (96 in lbs)
TDC inspection hole plug – 16.5 ft (198)
Oil drain – 17.5 ft (210) – use 13mm socket
Oil filter cover – 8flbs (96 in) stock – 4ft (48) alum cover
Oil – 2.5 qt w/ filter (10w-40)
Cylinder head cover bolt – 7ft (84)
Valves – adj on the tight end (engine runs quiter)

Handle bar clamp bolt – 16.5 ft (198)
Triple clamp bolts: upper – 21 ft (252) / lower 19 ft (228)
Steering stem (top of triple clamp) top nut/cap – 65 ft lbs
Front wheel axel – 47 ft : tighten first, cycle shocks 5x
Front wheel axel clamp bolts – 7 ft (84 in) : tighten next, top bolt first
Fork top cap – 16.5 ft (198)
Fork preload = 10-20mm
Fork oil height = 6.5” / 16 oz (5.9 lowered – need 2 qt)

Front brake caliper bolts – 19ft (228)
Fr brake Bleed nipple – 6 ft (72)
Fr Brake pad mounting pin – 13lb (156)
Fr brake hose banjo bolts – 16.5ft (198)

Rear brake caliper pad – 13 ft (156)
Rear wheel axel nut – 72.5 ft (cotter pin) / 79.5 (fuji nut)
Rear shock – upper bolt 40 ftlb , lower bolt 38 to 45 Nm (cogent) 55nm (stock)
Rear suspension linkage - Dog bones fuji-nuts (both) – 72.5 flbs
Rear suspension linkage – frame fuji-nuts – 58 ftlbs
Chain free play – 1.2–1.8 in (30-45 mm) 1.2 to 1.8 inches of slack in the middle of the chain
Swing arm bolt – 55.5 flbs

Counter sprocket bolts - 4.5 ft lbs (shoulder/raised area goes in towards engine)
Rear Sprocket – 19.5 ftlbs

Cogent rear shock
-lower red adjuster – rebound, 42 click total, out/down is softer
-upper small adjuster – compression, out/CCW is softer
-200lbs w/ gear – 4 out past middle settings.


Quality wheel Bearings:

-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ(EM)
2 - 17 x 35 x 10
-Front wheel seal:
2 - 23x35x7 (09284-23001 – Suzuki #)

-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ(EM)
2 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side):
1 - 26x47x7 (09283-26019 – Suzuki #)

-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ(EM)
1 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal:
1 - 35x52x7
-------------------------------------------
Two 6003 2RD/2RS/2RSJ(EM) (2RSJEM is the best spec)
Two 6204 2RD/2RS/2RSJ(EM)
One 6205 2RD/2RS/2RSJ(EM)
---------------------------------------------
Go for sealed both sides European or Jap bearings if you don't mind paying more . . . I sure don't.
Any brands like SKF, FAG, NSK etc.
If you want a good Jap sealed bearing for the rear axle hub (x 2) get Honda ones :
part number 96150-6204010 ( generic 6204 bearing ) 20 x 47 x 14 mm size.

Cush drive bearing is a 6205 generic 25 x 52 x 15mm
Honda part number 96150-6205010

Front wheel size is 6003 generic 17 x 35 x 10mm
Honda part # 91065-KA3-832

Before you pay for the Honda ones check they are made in Japan and sealed both sides !

Spark plugs:
Denso irdidium - 5364 (IU31)
Standard ngk - CR10E
NGK irdium - CR10EIX

-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a

[Krusty ...]

I'm embarrassed to find that I neglected to add a link to this thread-Who has the most tricked-out DR ? by Zapp22. A great thread that I thought I had included a long time ago . A DR650 farkle-fest .

While I'm at it, let me add another link, The DR650 Highway Touring Thread by planemanx15. Great ideas for making the DR a more capable mile eater .


Here's a buildup of a super clean DR650 motard setup: Will's Funster DR650 Project by willmeyer.

[ER70S-2]

This is another inmate's idea and it worked well for me. I didn't like repeatedly using steel screws into alum on the oil filter cover. The solution is studs.

First thing I noticed is that the threaded holes in the clutch cover are deeper than the stock bolts, by about 6mm. What looks like a longer bolt, is actually a stud with a nut. The bottom one is the stock Zuki bolt.


This shows all 3 studs (cut/ground to length) screwed into the entire depth available, with the ground ends exposed. Sorry about the fuzzy pic, the camera was smarter than me when I took this pic.


After getting the length right, I flipped the studs to show the factory ends, drowned in Loctite (wiped off excess), and left to dry. DO NOT tighten the studs very tight, that will introduce an unwanted stress into the case bosses. The Loctite will take care of that.

Now, pritty and strong and steel on steel.

[ag_streak]

^ ^ ^ That's a cool idea, and thanks for the write-up!

[Heavy]

What size & length studs are they? Not to be lazy but it would be nice to have them in hand when I start the project.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by ag_streak

^ ^ ^ That's a cool idea, and thanks for the write-up!

Originally Posted by Heavy

What size & length studs are they? Not to be lazy but it would be nice to have them in hand when I start the project.

I knew then (Feb. 2010), but I don't remember now.

Remove your top bolt, chase the threads, bottom a longer bolt in the hole, measure what you'll need.


Stock bolt thread is 6x16mm. Looks like about 27mm. Buy 'em long, cut to fit.

[Heavy]

Thanks!

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

.........Stock bolt thread is 6x16mm. Looks like about 27mm. Buy 'em long, cut to fit.

[eakins]

http://dr650-mods-reviews-tips.sportsontheweb.net/