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Old 03-05-2011, 12:48 AM   #16
DaBit OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoRover View Post
A plastic called Kydex seems to be very abrasion- and chemical resistant, weldable too.
Did some research on it, and chemical resistance and weldability seems OK. No data on brittleness of hot-air welded joints though.

But then the price. That stuff is pretty expensive, and both sheets and welding wire are subjected to minimum quantities.

I think I will stick with HDPE. Make it a little thicker at the wheel side for damage resistance, and it should be very durable.
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:54 PM   #17
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Shot a photo of the bike yesterday:



Those blinkers on the hand guards are pretty ugly. It seemed like a good idea but once on the bike it looks like shit. New blinkers are in the making...
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:46 AM   #18
OaklandStrom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit View Post
Those blinkers on the hand guards are pretty ugly. It seemed like a good idea but once on the bike it looks like shit. New blinkers are in the making...
There's some really bright LEDs out there now. I think a row of yellow LEDs could be hidden quite well in a hand guard. Yes - I've been thinking of doing the same thing...
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:28 PM   #19
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Guess what I've been doing...





Needs some cleaning up, and then I have 150 lumens of camouflaged blinker onto the handguards.

(more pictures here)
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit View Post
Guess what I've been doing...



Needs some cleaning up, and then I have 150 lumens of camouflaged blinker onto the handguards.

(more pictures here)
Fantastic!

I hope you keep this thread updated - it's much easier to read than the other one.
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:55 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Tackett View Post
I hope you keep this thread updated - it's much easier to read than the other one.
I will, but with somewhat less detail. Keeping one forum up to date already costs almost as much time as the mechanical work, redoing that in a language which is not my native one is a bit too much.

Fortunately pictures often say more than a thousand words
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Old 03-08-2011, 03:48 AM   #22
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Blinkers mounted on the handguards:



They produce an insane amount of light. I have already reduced the LED-current to 200mA, and now it's OK when viewed in full sunlight, but at night it's still a bit much.

Oh well, just another 'get out of my way' sign to the cagers
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:29 AM   #23
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Slight progress.

I had a not-so-minor setback which I found out after searching for the reason why the bottom of the engine became wet: a crack in the engine casing. I didn't find it until I blasted a suspected spot with some dry sand.



Probably caused by the bike slipping off the bike stand and falling down on concrete hard a few weeks ago, combined with a waaaaay too high tightening torque (35Nm) for that M10 bolt I put through the cases. Both were very stupid things to do, but oh well, I'm the kind of guy that only seems to learn the hard way.
I fixed it with some 2-part polyurethane glue. Seems to hold.


Needless to say: the steel frame beneath the engine was pretty deformed too. So I made a new one, this time out of 20x20x2mm square stock and with a slightly better design. Should be many times stiffer and stronger (and heavier..) than the steel strips I had before, and hopefully move some of the stress to the frame instead of the engine casings.



On the bikes' left side one of the bars is removeable. This allows me to use the space between skidplate and engine for the battery, tools, spares, etc. Of course the side flap of the skid plate will be removeable too to access this space.



One evening of work in the HDPE skidplate-to-be:



Test mount, right side:


Test mount, left side:


More metal is not necessary. A few extra pieces of plastic welded to the bottom plate together with the tool compartments will give more than enough strength and rigidity.
And yep, that's a lot of space between skidplate and engine. Storing tire levers, two spare tubes, basic toolset, etc. there should be possible.

This skid plate is light enough to float on water, and extremely slippery.

Ground clearance is some 23cm / 9". Enough for a light offroad bike.
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:16 AM   #24
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Not totally happy. It sticks out forward too much, and I don't like the gaping holes between engine and skidplate. Oh well, I knew in advance that 'design' is not one of my most developed capabilities.

Since it's only about $10 worth of plastic I'll probably build another one which is a tad shorter and with the side wings also curving upwards so it matches the engine and frame tube form a bit better. But I can do that when waiting for parts or so; for now being able to lift the bike again is sufficient. The new internals for the fork legs have arrived :)

Something I am totally happy with though, is the strength and toughness of the skidplate. No problem to lift the bike at a point outside the metal frame, and hitting it with a hammer only dents it slightly. Weight is similar to the same construction made out of thin 2.5mm/0.1" aluminium sheet. Didn't weight
it, but it's a lot lighter than the skidplate on the LC4Adv.
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:04 AM   #25
pennswoodsed
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skid plate

Innovative construction method, and good execution .
Regards,Ed
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:01 AM   #26
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Looks great to me. Never really thought about a plastic skid plate, guess it would certainly do the job!

I'd like to keep an eye on your plastic welding skills, especially how you construct your tank. I've seriously been considering adding that skillset to my repertoire as it's very handy for a variety of projects. You've done good work so far for learning it on your own (and with a homemade rig).

Great looking bike though, can't wait to see it in action!
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Old 03-19-2011, 01:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarahp View Post
Looks great to me. Never really thought about a plastic skid plate, guess it would certainly do the job! //!
Hyde Racing make them for the DL650.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:38 AM   #28
Straightedge
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Been a while...

What ever became of this build? I'm into the "adv" conversion of bikes and love to see the ingenuity. And a plastic tank?
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:52 AM   #29
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Oh, many things happened. Only not that many past year; I had to exercise with carbon fiber and build things for the LC8.

This is the current status:

.

A lot of effort went into the DR-Z forks/triples. Mounting the biger forks with the more massive triples meant the radiator was in the way, and since this is a budget build, I decided to chop up $15 worth of aluminium heater cores and make bike radiators out of them:



Cramming 8 hoses where there were two before tool some effort and included special distribution pieces:



Of course, also many small things changed, such as PivotPegs



Test ride




And so on.

In the mean time I processed about 10kg epoxy and various fiber in small things, and I feel confident enough to make a tank to replace the entire subframe. This will start when the temperatures go up again; it's too cold for composite work right now.
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:36 PM   #30
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Updates!!!!!!

How is the build going?!?!?!? I am very interested in doing exactly what you have done to your sv. I can't wait to see how the tank turns out. Keep up the awesome work.

Aaron
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