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Old 11-28-2010, 09:35 AM   #16
grinns OP
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Quote from Tahoeacr:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=402142&page=2

Not needed unless you screw it up. There should be a little play in the throttle grip at idle. Left or right. If you take the play out, the throttle valves can sit a little off of fully closed throwing off the tps.

To adjust the tps the dealer tool is not needed. You must make sure that the idle control motor is not effecting the throttle valves. At idle, with a warm engine you should get approx .6 volts from the signal wire. Full throttle engine off ignition on should be approx 3.8 volts.

Black is ground
Blue is 5 volt supply
Yellow/White is signal cable

2nd tps should be approx. 1.0 volt at closed and approx 4.3 volt at full throttle with engine off ignition on.

Black is ground
Blue is 5 volt supply
Green/Red is signal

Almost forgot, the tps's are held on with one screw. The tps case is slotted so you can move it while reading your volt meter.

If there out of range the ecu goes in to a Emergency operation program. Still rideable.
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Old 11-28-2010, 03:17 PM   #17
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I think this may be my problem, because I synced the throttle bodies and it was pretty far off. The TPS was close so I went for a ride and gdam was it smooth. You could feel the transition to tps sensors, from map sensors, but it was minor. My problem was where the engine felt like it was stalling.

Adjusting tps to spec and going for anouther ride after I reset tps.
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Old 11-28-2010, 04:55 PM   #18
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Right on!

Sounds like a productive Sunday.

My answering machine only got part of your message.
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:04 PM   #19
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Right on!

Sounds like a productive Sunday.

My answering machine only got part of your message.
Ah, I am waiting for it to cool down. Probably post more after 8pm. I had to make a special wrench.
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:13 PM   #20
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I was getting .57 when it was warm. Still in tolerance, but the stall came back. I am going to turn it up a little bit so its at .60-.63. Before fusing with it it was .60 after throttle balance it was .67 when I test road it.

What I think is happening is the rpms get to 5k ish where if the throttle is 0 the fuel injection is cut off. The sensors think its really close to zero because I am slowly creaping up and cutting off the fuel injectors, even though I am excelerating slowly.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:36 PM   #21
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I still think it thinks its at 0 throttle. I have it adjusted to .63 volts warm, which is still in tolerance. It is better, but it still feels like it stalls. Step two I think is tape my tablet pc to the handlebars and go find a remote road.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:57 AM   #22
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TPS sensor

Quote:
Originally Posted by grinns
I still think it thinks its at 0 throttle. I have it adjusted to .63 volts warm, which is still in tolerance. It is better, but it still feels like it stalls. Step two I think is tape my tablet pc to the handlebars and go find a remote road.
If you very slowly turn the throttle, how does the voltage of the TPS change?.
Does it change smooth or does it move jumpy?.
Because it could be possible that the sensor has a bad spot some where?.
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark01
If you very slowly turn the throttle, how does the voltage of the TPS change?.
Does it change smooth or does it move jumpy?.
Because it could be possible that the sensor has a bad spot some where?.
It is totally smooth. When accelerating I don't really move the throttle at all. I think tonight I am going to make a map with the secondary open all the time. Just to rule this out.

Then I am going to check the ignition switch.

My tablet is all set and ready to go for a ride, but it is raining out.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:54 PM   #24
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:00 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark01
If you very slowly turn the throttle, how does the voltage of the TPS change?.
Does it change smooth or does it move jumpy?.
Because it could be possible that the sensor has a bad spot some where?.
I tried this test with TuneECU today on my bike and you can watch the volts move with the throttle, it updates the readings pretty quick.

As for adjusting the TPS, are you fukin kidding me, i could hardly see it with a flashlight.

Are you guys doing this with the airbox on? Sure seems like it would make it a lot easier to get it spot on without it.

Mike, how close did you get the TBs .
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:33 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty
I tried this test with TuneECU today on my bike and you can watch the volts move with the throttle, it updates the readings pretty quick.

As for adjusting the TPS, are you fukin kidding me, i could hardly see it with a flashlight.

Are you guys doing this with the airbox on? Sure seems like it would make it a lot easier to get it spot on without it.

Mike, how close did you get the TBs .
I made my own tool and I have mad finger coordination skills! Airbox on!
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:19 PM   #27
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Noticed the vaccum from the sensors flucuates more to the second cylinder at the stall point. I wonder if it has a bad map sensor. Going to switch them and see if it follows.

Also turning off the secondaries.
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:33 PM   #28
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Cheek out no hose is pinched or blocked when you reassembly everything.
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:35 PM   #29
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Cheek out no hose is pinched or blocked when you reassembly everything.
Will do when i swap them. It started doing this out of the blue after running well.
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:57 PM   #30
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Didn't matter with secondaries open, I changed the map to have them open all the time.

tomorrow I am going to swap the sensors and check the hoses.
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