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Old 05-18-2011, 06:28 AM   #811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollow Road Rider View Post

[Where] are my [mounting] options on my GS/A?
(I hope you got the Steve Martin movie joke. "Just in this little area here.") Seriously though, you mount the IICE Air in the general vicinity of the air box air temperature sensor. There's about 8in/200mm of harness.


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Old 05-18-2011, 06:45 AM   #812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
(I hope you got the Steve Martin movie joke. "Just in this little area here.") Seriously though, you mount the IICE Air in the general vicinity of the air box air temperature sensor. There's about 8in/200mm of harness.

Got it! I'll have to put it between the Chickletts and under the thimble... should fit just fine.
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:45 PM   #813
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I'm assuming that would be where the red arrows are in the diagrams on this page?
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:45 PM   #814
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I'm assuming that would be where the red arrows are in the diagrams on this page?
Cool! I think you've just found our installation guide.
Yes, the red arrows point to the connector on the temperature sensor.


That info page has some good pictures of the competitive products. Not much actual information, though it does validate many widely held beliefs.


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Old 05-22-2011, 07:59 AM   #815
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I wonder if it is the same for us antique R1100RT owners.

Feeling like owning one as I watch vendor accessories and farkels disappear.
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Old 05-23-2011, 04:20 AM   #816
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Here are all the parts from Wednesday last week. I started building that night.




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Old 05-23-2011, 04:34 AM   #817
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Assembly report.

I figure many of you might be interested in the steps involved during assembly.


Off to a roaring start on Wednesday night! First solder the header to the board.
Wait. What the heck is going on with that white jumper!?



Apparently this little jumper is made from a brittle plastic. Dang.



There are other jumpers of course, but the tabs are not all the same size. As you can see here.



The blue jumper trims down with a razor. Adding an assembly step.



This will work fine. Order and trim 159 more of these blue jumpers.




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Old 05-23-2011, 05:19 AM   #818
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Assembly report.

This plastic vial is originally about 3.5in. It must be trimmed down to the length shown here.
The bottom must be flat, or very nearly so. Not like in the picture. The cut in the picture below was made with a box knife.



YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG!



I spent a day and a half rigging up a router table fixture to make a nice clean and quick cut on the vial. As you can see, the cutting tool grips the plastic and tears it. What's going on is, the polyethylene plastic doesn't cut readily, and the tool just grabs ahold of it.

Back to the drawing board on Saturday.


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Old 05-23-2011, 05:42 AM   #819
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Have you tried a band saw?
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:19 AM   #820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollow Road Rider View Post
Have you tried a band saw?

Or a simple hobby saw and mitre box:



About $15

Jim
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:36 AM   #821
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Thanks for the tips guys. Great minds and all that!



A buddy and I went milling around in the hardware store trying to figure out some reasonable way to cut those plastic vials. He comes up with a great idea to cut the vial with a hacksaw, and use a stack of standard 5/8" washers for the cut length.

I figured the cut length needs to be adjustable, so I add the threaded fasteners to adjust the spacing.

This has some potential.



Looks about right.



Just might work.



Holding the saw blade against the washer is easier than it looks. Zips right through in about 2 seconds flat.



This is promising.



There's quite a burr there.



That burr doesn't just flake off. The kerf from the cut is still attached to the main body.
The material isn't so much cut as just bulldozed around the corner.



The excess plastic must be removed with a razor or exacto knife. Ever try and run a razor around the outside of a soft plastic round? I try a few and find that it's going to be too time consuming.

Back to the drawing board on Sunday. I'm rattling around the shop trying this and that, looking for some ideas. I give JJ a call about 7pm. And we start what turns out to be a 2-and-a-half hour marathon con-fab!

We tried lots of different things, razors, cutters, and more razors. And there was much comic relief to be had. JJ says, "Try doing that." I say, "Ouch!" He says, "That didn't work eh?"

Finally JJ convinces me that I should use a hot wire cutter. Convince is probably the wrong word. Really, there was nothing left for me to try. It should be noted that JJ first suggested using a hot wire cutter right after I selected the plastic vial as part of the design. And I was convinced a hot wire cutter wouldn't work.

At this point, the only trouble is I don't have a hot wire cuter. Not to fear, I grabbed the propane torch and a box knife blade! (This was also probably JJ's idea from a while back.)

Pictures and band-aids to follow. I'll get some shots up later tonight.





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Old 05-23-2011, 06:39 AM   #822
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Make up a mandrel out of wood that slip fits the plastic tube. An exacto knife blade in a holder cuts the plastic as you rotate the mandrel. Blade is on pivot so it is rotated into position for cut and swung out of the way to remove cut piece and reload the next "victim". This will make a good clean cut. Could also use new utility blade if a stiffer blade ( and bigger blade) is desired. Might be easier to rig up with a clamping block to allow a blade change every 20 or 30 cuts.

Think "manual lathe". I believe you could rotate the plastic tube by hand grasping the cap end. The open end buts up against a stop for getting the length right each time. Your other hand puts pressure on the cutting blade holder while you rotate the tube. Maybe three time around it should be cut through. No burrs or trimming needed.
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:51 AM   #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdesigns View Post

Make up a mandrel out of wood that slip fits the plastic tube. An exacto knife blade in a holder cuts the plastic as you rotate the mandrel. Blade is on pivot so it is rotated into position for cut and swung out of the way to remove cut piece and reload the next "victim". This will make a good clean cut. Could also use new utility blade if a stiffer blade ( and bigger blade) is desired. Might be easier to rig up with a clamping block to allow a blade change every 20 or 30 cuts.
You and JJ are reading from the same playbook!

It turns out the friction against the blade from that sort of cut into soft plastic is too considerable for a simple fixture. The torque required to turn the vial is enough to deform the tube shape, and the cut starts to walk.

Along those lines, a pipe cutter or pizza cutter 'wheel knife' might work. I'm pretty sure we've got it sorted it out using a propane-heated box knife blade, held with a small vice-grip.


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Old 05-23-2011, 06:56 AM   #824
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How about a PVC tubing cutter?



Might be the soft plastic will deform too much, but maybe not. Definitely a burr free cut.

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Old 05-23-2011, 06:57 AM   #825
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Did you try cutting it with a really hot knife???
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