Hotrodding the GS

[Poolside]

+1 on the "Will it work on the 1100S?" question. Thanks for taking care of my light work, PF! :-)

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by Shortguy on BMW

You can get a hot knife blade for a soldering gun.

Thanks for the thoughts. That does seem like a good idea. What happens in practice is, the melted plastic from the previous cut needs to be removed from the blade before the next cut or it starts making the kerf of the cut uneven, which affects the part dimension. Removing the plastic while it's liquid makes a bit of a mess. (think cheese from a hot pizza slice) And there's plastic to remove from whatever you used to remove the plastic from the hot blade. A vicious circle.

Using a flame to heat the blade lets the plastic solidify between cuts, and the plastic can be removed easily. But in this case that doesn't matter. This was a surprise. Heating the blade with a flame also very cleanly burns off the plastic without residue if you can believe it. Well, surprisingly this type of PE plastic leaves no residue anyway.

Acourse all of this is really only an issue if you're trying to do a dimensionally repeatable cut.




Ok, I'm going in...

[pigfixer]

Originally Posted by Poolside

+1 on the "Will it work on the 1100S?" question. Thanks for taking care of my light work, PF! :-)

[Poolside]

Little help, please.

A little birdie told me I should verify a dimension on a few of the R models to ensure that the wiring harnesses will fit. Sounds like a good idea to me, you know, before making a big batch of wiring harnesses.

I need to verify the dimension illustrated below, on the GS, RT, and ST.

If anyone can take that measurement on a GS, RT, or ST. I'd very much appreciate having confirmation of the measurements I took. I want to make sure they are correct. JVB has an ST so maybe he take the measurement on his bike.

Thanks all.


This is the distance to measure.



Measure from the WIRE END of the air temp sensor connector...

Picture by marchyman


To approximately where the left side relay screw is located.

Picture by myblubeemer

[marchyman]

Don't forget that at least some bike have the canister purge solenoid in that area, too.

[mdmaroon]

After cutting the plastic tube with a hacksaw, you could use a deburring tool, such as one of these:

http://www.magtool.com/hand.html

I see that you already found a way to cut them with a hot razorblade, but I don't know if that is easier, or more difficult that a hacksaw followed by manual deburring.

Just my two cents worth....

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by marchyman

Don't forget that at least some bike have the canister purge solenoid in that area, too.

Thanks for the reminder. The wiring exits from the top of the connector (heh heh, where else), and routes over the top of that bracket. So it'll be fine.

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by mdmaroon

After cutting the plastic tube with a hacksaw, you could use a deburring tool, such as one of these:

http://www.magtool.com/hand.html

I see that you already found a way to cut them with a hot razorblade, but I don't know if that is easier, or more difficult that a hacksaw followed by manual deburring.

Just my two cents worth....

The hot razor work well enough, and there's no deburring or tiny plastic bits to clean up. Thanks for the input just the same.

I tried the hacksaw a few pages back. It cuts ok, but there's the deburring. And it isn't just the deburring, it's leftover the 'chips' from cutting the plastic. The tiny chips static cling onto the vial, and get up into the cap seal.

I have a MAG deburring tool over here. It works more or less ok on the ID, but as you can imagine it doesn't work on the OD. I have single-flute countersinks/chamfer bits for both ID and OD (not the MAG versions) but they don't work either. This plastic is just too soft.

If any large production runs are done in the future, it will be done on a lathe with a drawbar-operated 5C soft internal collet for holding, and a rotary razor for cutting.

[wrysingfeenix]

Originally Posted by Poolside

If any large production runs are done in the future, it will be done on a lathe with a drawbar-operated 5C soft internal collet for holding, and a rotary razor for cutting.

I love it when you talk dirty like that.

[Poolside]

I need to verify this measurement on any model R1200. Who can help?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post16048638

[Hollow Road Rider]

Originally Posted by poolside

i need to verify this measurement on any model r1200. Who can help?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post16048638

2010 r1200 gsa = 6"

[Poolside]

Check. Thank you HRR!

RT, S and ST to go.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post16048638

[dirtybikefrank]

My bike is ready to go faster....just sayin.

[Poolside]

You're bike's gonna rock. Then we can get on the the second model that rocks all the harder.


Click here, I need this measurement on the RT, S and ST.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post16048638

[grpweld]

Originally Posted by Poolside

You're bike's gonna rock. Then we can get on the the second model that rocks all the harder.


Click here, I need this measurement on the RT, S and ST.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post16048638

If I recall correctly the second unit will be for 1100"s & 1150's correct?