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Old 06-01-2011, 10:26 AM   #856
David_Moen
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Nope, "second unit" is the ICECool (sorry if I mangled the name) that fiddles with the fuel mixture based on oil temp/pressure inputs.
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:00 AM   #857
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Originally Posted by dirtybikefrank View Post
My bike is ready to go faster....just sayin.




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Old 06-01-2011, 07:23 PM   #858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grpweld View Post

If I recall correctly the second unit will be for 1100"s & 1150's correct?
Quote:
Originally Posted by David_Moen View Post

Nope, "second unit" is the ICECool (sorry if I mangled the name) that fiddles with the fuel mixture based on oil temp/pressure inputs.
You're both right. The second product, the IICE Cool, has two versions. One for the 1100/1150 and the other for the 1200.

The 1100/1150 version will arrive first, as it's already designed. What I mean by that is, the functional prototype works great. It's been on a couple of bikes, and I've been running it on my 1150 the whole time.

The second IICE Cool version, for the 1200, is a more complex device. Specifically, it intercepts and manipulates CANbus data. There's quite a bit more to the 1200 version. It has at least one microcontroller, and may have two.


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Old 06-01-2011, 07:41 PM   #859
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Little help

I need to verify this measurement RT, and S models of R1200. Who can help?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post16048638

JVB got back to me and he'll get the info from his ST.



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Old 06-01-2011, 08:23 PM   #860
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Needed to take off the side pannel to get to it:



Since the tank pannel goes down a little further, you need a bit more length. The ST needs about 7.5", depending on where you plan to mount it. I suspect, based on your above info, that you can attach it to the blank brass nut pictured. It will have to be pretty small to clear the seat bracket and seat though, not pictured.

The RT configuration is different. This is the best photo I have at the moment:



Jim
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:50 PM   #861
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Thanks Jim!

Regarding where to mount it, looks like on the ST, ziptie the harness to the 'tinnerman clip' will work fine. I'll just go ahead and make the harness long enough to allow the end user some options. Like that brass insert nut you mention.

Between this RT picture and yours, looks like I got it covered. Thanks again big brother! Cheers.


http://www.ebbo.org/resistor_tuning/...mw_r1200rt.jpg
Picture from Ebbo.org


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Old 06-01-2011, 09:00 PM   #862
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Little help

I need to verify this measurement on the R1200 S model. Who can help?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post16048638


REGARDING THE S MODEL:

Specifically, when the seat is removed on the S, there is far less of the airbox visible.

The tank cover wraps most of the way around the back and side of the tank. It looks like the tank cover might be cut away right where it meets the front of the seat. If there is a cutaway in the S tank cover, exposing part of the airbox, it's obviously far less of a cutaway than on the R, RT, ST, and GS models.

On the S, it looks like there may be enough room at the trailing edge of the tank cover, once the seat is removed.

It would be nice to figure a place to ziptie the IICE Air so that you can get to it either by removing the seat, or in the case of the S model, the small side panel under the seat/tank interface.


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Old 06-01-2011, 09:13 PM   #863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Thanks Jim!

Regarding where to mount it, looks like on the ST, ziptie the harness to the 'tinnerman clip' will work fine. I'll just go ahead and make the harness long enough to allow the end user some options. Like that brass insert nut you mention.

Between this RT picture and yours, looks like I got it covered. Thanks again big brother! Cheers.


http://www.ebbo.org/resistor_tuning/...mw_r1200rt.jpg
Picture from Ebbo.org

That will work, you just wont be able to get to it without removing the body pannels!

Jim
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:13 PM   #864
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It cuts ok, but there's the deburring. And it isn't just the deburring, it's leftover the 'chips' from cutting the plastic. The tiny chips static cling onto the vial, and get up into the cap seal.

... This plastic is just too soft.
For the chips just give the batch after cutting a good wash and rinse in plain Dawn dish soap and hot water (no softener!) and a good rinse. I used to give RF assemblies this wash with no residue problems as long as the drying is quick. (DI water rinse. )

For soft plastic - a trip in the freezer before cutting.
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:34 PM   #865
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Yea that's what I want to do, the dishes! I appreciate the input just the same.


Re aqueous flux solder, and water rinse of PCB assemblies, that's the ticket. At one point I used a converted (read sacrificed) dishwasher.


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Old 06-01-2011, 09:43 PM   #866
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That will work, you just wont be able to get to it without removing the body panels!
I didn't think the panels would need to be removed to get to the IICE Air and make an adjustment, but you're the one looking at the side and tank panels.

The device can be mounted via a ziptie to its own harness. The little enclosure is not much bigger than the Booster Plug enclosure.

Sure, to install it the tank cover on some models will need to come off, but not to adjust it. At least it sure doesn't look like it. From the pictures, there is plenty of room there for the IICE Air enclosure.

If I'm off base, let me know.


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Old 06-02-2011, 07:57 AM   #867
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I assume there are some sort of dip switches or potentiometers on the unit that may need adjusting, correct? Also, it is about the size of a small relay? If so, on the ST, you may need to add another 8" of wire to place it under the seat to access it without removing the side pannel.



You can see by this photo how the side pannels will have to be removed to get to it, the blue pannel comes off with the silver one above it in one piece, and the lower one below the blue also is another that would have to come off. The bike can be ridden with them removed though. Under the seat is a bracket, not shown, that is placed over the battery and next to the tank that removes that space for mounting.

Like I said, no problem mounting under the pannel, but it makes access more difficult.

IIRC the RT isn't much better, but I don't have the bike to be sure.

Hope this helps.

Jim
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:16 AM   #868
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
I assume there are some sort of dip switches or potentiometers on the unit that may need adjusting, correct? Also, it is about the size of a small relay? If so, on the ST, you may need to add another 8" of wire to place it under the seat to access it without removing the side pannel.
I think you'd want the same for the RT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post


You can see by this photo how the side pannels will have to be removed to get to it, the blue pannel comes off with the silver one above it in one piece, and the lower one below the blue also is another that would have to come off. The bike can be ridden with them removed though. Under the seat is a bracket, not shown, that is placed over the battery and next to the tank that removes that space for mounting.

Like I said, no problem mounting under the pannel, but it makes access more difficult.

IIRC the RT isn't much better, but I don't have the bike to be sure.
I had a 2005 RT, and procedure for "Tupperware" removal is confusing the first and second time, and time-consuming even after you learn it. I think it involves 13 screws for the first side, possibly more.

I got it down to 15 minutes to remove one side, and 15 minutes to reinstall. Another 10/10 minutes for the other side. Makes throttle body syncing a PITA.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:11 AM   #869
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I think you'd want the same for the RT.


I had a 2005 RT, and procedure for "Tupperware" removal is confusing the first and second time, and time-consuming even after you learn it. I think it involves 13 screws for the first side, possibly more.

I got it down to 15 minutes to remove one side, and 15 minutes to reinstall. Another 10/10 minutes for the other side. Makes throttle body syncing a PITA.
Yup sure is.
You gotta take off the side panel to get access to the rear brake master cyl. too, at least I do.
Total plastic tear down is 39 screws....just for the tupperware.
more if ya go into the dash too.
If ya could relocate it to under the seat that would be great!
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:06 AM   #870
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Just being lazy and not wanting to read back through all 870 posts.....

Riding an '08 1200GS....How much are you charging for these babies? Is this batch you are working on all spoken for or do you have some available?
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