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Old 09-09-2011, 09:38 AM   #1396
johnjen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Can anyone tell me if there is a different model of these IICE for the F800GS vs an 02 1150 GS?

Thanks in advance. I'm on the list & just wanted to confirm.

Oh & Marketing Dept. - any estimate when we'll get to J.G.- in NV?

Thanks.
No. One size fits all.

And marketing sez
YES!
(see my previous post)

JJ
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:44 AM   #1397
Gangplank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjen View Post
No. One size fits all.

And marketing sez
YES!
(see my previous post)

JJ
Meaning "it won't be long now" ?
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:53 PM   #1398
DRONE
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I know exactly when my two IICE-Airs will arrive . . .




. . . it'll be the day after I put up the two bikes for the winter.




Luckily, "winter" around here lasts for about 3 weeks!
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Old 09-09-2011, 04:01 PM   #1399
Boxerwrench
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Cool2

I settled for attaching mine to the seat height rod w/ vinyl coated twist ties like the ones that wrap up electronic cables.
It can point down but still rotate up for pin change.

Left it at the -20 and took a 60+ mile ride of rural highway and city streets.
first third of the ride I got to put in 4.6/6 gallons of REAL 90 octane Gasoline!
2/3 of the way thru the ride I also installed a K&N air Filter ( one reason for the ride).
I am not sure how that also affected the ride.
I am sure the Falcon is in a state of shock tho.....

(Note now that I still need a good valve and sync redo. and my cables.)
Stone cold starting needed only one extra stroke of max "choke" and the rpm stayed at 2k in the normal "choke" position.
Roll on power: seemed a little smoother so the accel seemed a little smoother.
Strange thing happened tho, bike shifted normal below 4k and 5 heat bars longer than usual.
The AIR also seemed to smooth out alot ( but not all) of the roll on and off power lurching at lower rpm's ( 3.4k and less) in 1st and 2nd between 3-3.8K rpm.
Not scientific but the bike seemed happier to get to 70 and up and run there.
Temps ranged from high 80's to low 90's
Might try the really hot setting to see what happens as it gets to the low 90's alot of late ( down from the mid 90's! , ya I know other hot climate guy may bark in but we have what you don't ....moist air! )
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Boxerwrench screwed with this post 09-09-2011 at 04:10 PM
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Old 09-09-2011, 04:55 PM   #1400
Happy Wanderer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrysingfeenix View Post
Incidentally. I have absolutely NO background in electronic/computer technology, and I can explain exactly what it does, why you designed it to do it, and how well it does it. I'm able to do that because I've followed the thread, installed one, and enjoyed it.
Having read the entire thread and today the entire vendor thread I am really interested to hear from end users. So please, go ahead. I'm all ears!
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:01 PM   #1401
Trail'R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar2112 View Post
OK JJ, I am dying here. How much of a "donation" do I have to make to your favorite "charity" to get to the head of the line.



I am not sure how much you need, but I can say that as the high bid auction winner, I am still waiting. That may give you a starting price.

I am happily waiting my place in line. Poolside will deliver.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:03 PM   #1402
Happy Wanderer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxerwrench View Post
I settled for attaching mine to the seat height rod w/ vinyl coated twist ties like the ones that wrap up electronic cables.
It can point down but still rotate up for pin change.

Left it at the -20 and took a 60+ mile ride of rural highway and city streets.
first third of the ride I got to put in 4.6/6 gallons of REAL 90 octane Gasoline!
2/3 of the way thru the ride I also installed a K&N air Filter ( one reason for the ride).
I am not sure how that also affected the ride.
I am sure the Falcon is in a state of shock tho.....

(Note now that I still need a good valve and sync redo. and my cables.)
Stone cold starting needed only one extra stroke of max "choke" and the rpm stayed at 2k in the normal "choke" position.
Roll on power: seemed a little smoother so the accel seemed a little smoother.
Strange thing happened tho, bike shifted normal below 4k and 5 heat bars longer than usual.
The AIR also seemed to smooth out alot ( but not all) of the roll on and off power lurching at lower rpm's ( 3.4k and less) in 1st and 2nd between 3-3.8K rpm.
Not scientific but the bike seemed happier to get to 70 and up and run there.
Temps ranged from high 80's to low 90's
Might try the really hot setting to see what happens as it gets to the low 90's alot of late ( down from the mid 90's! , ya I know other hot climate guy may bark in but we have what you don't ....moist air! )
Just my opinion but having your bike in tip top running condition (valves adjusted, throttles synched) before making any changes like adding on a new device would make the testing results much easier to interpret. Depending on the state of your old air filter changing over to a K&N (probably the most free flowing filter you can get for these bikes) might have made a big difference also.

That said, I am very curious to know:
- Did your bike surge before installing the IICE Air? If so, does it surge now?

I also have a '00 RT and when it is even slightly out of synch it surges badly!
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:41 PM   #1403
Boxerwrench
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arsegon View Post
Just my opinion but having your bike in tip top running condition (valves adjusted, throttles synched) before making any changes like adding on a new device would make the testing results much easier to interpret. Depending on the state of your old air filter changing over to a K&N (probably the most free flowing filter you can get for these bikes) might have made a big difference also.

That said, I am very curious to know:
- Did your bike surge before installing the IICE Air? If so, does it surge now?

I also have a '00 RT and when it is even slightly out of synch it surges badly!
I can deconn the unit at maintenance. I just wanted to try it out.

Before , yes, in first and second 3.7K and below it was like the engine blipping in and out of power.
W/ the Air in the surge is 80% softened.
Now more like a soft tug.

Kinda wish I had a spare
$550 for a kit to convert to a 2 sparker set up I saw on the 'Net.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:58 PM   #1404
Happy Wanderer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxerwrench View Post
$550 for a kit to convert to a 2 sparker set up I saw on the 'Net.
Yeah. Unplug, tune, try again is the best idea. When testing anything a known good starting point is the way to go.
Not sure twin sparking is the answer. I've read about lots of them surging too.
After a few years of playing around with this and a lot of reading my money is still on the fuel mapping. Ultimately most of the fixes are intended to prod the ECU into using a different fuel map. So leaving the bike stock and changing the fuel map itself (not easy to do) might be a good solution.
I only know of one place selling performance upgrades that involve swapping the fuel map prom chip. I asked them about surging but have not heard anything back.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:03 PM   #1405
johnjen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxerwrench View Post
I can deconn the unit at maintenance. I just wanted to try it out.

snip..
As a point of information…
If you move the jumper to the 0 position the ECU is reading the stock air temp sensor. So effectively the bike is running in 'stock' condition.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1121

JJ
__________________
The hidden harmony is found with joy, while the obvious brings indifference.
The farther you enter into the Truth the deeper your conviction for truth must be.
There is understanding of the world precisely to the degree that there is understanding of the Self.

WingMakers.com
Collected Works of the WingMakers Volume 1 pg. 590
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:07 PM   #1406
Boxerwrench
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjen View Post
As a point of information
If you move the jumper to the 0 position the ECU is reading the stock air temp sensor. So effectively the bike is running in 'stock' condition.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1121

JJ
YES!
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:09 PM   #1407
Boxerwrench
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Location: Daytona Beach area, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arsegon View Post
Yeah. Unplug, tune, try again is the best idea. When testing anything a known good starting point is the way to go.
Not sure twin sparking is the answer. I've read about lots of them surging too.
After a few years of playing around with this and a lot of reading my money is still on the fuel mapping. Ultimately most of the fixes are intended to prod the ECU into using a different fuel map. So leaving the bike stock and changing the fuel map itself (not easy to do) might be a good solution.
I only know of one place selling performance upgrades that involve swapping the fuel map prom chip. I asked them about surging but have not heard anything back.
Just for info this is it:

http://www.sjbmw.com/parts.asp?mid=4...rc=&p=1&pid=45
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:24 PM   #1408
wrysingfeenix
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Kudos update

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrysingfeenix View Post
Context: '99 R1100 GS w/56,000 miles, bone stock except for a Remus exhaust /potentiometer installed years ago to address a minor surging issue. I installed the IICE air and rode about 20 miles this morning in near 100 degree temps set at the -10 position . I've always been satisfied with how my bike runs, the only "issue" being a flat spot/momentary hesitation when abruptly rolling on the throttle in 5th gear between 4,000 and 5,000 rpm.

Starting: same as before...has always seemed a little sluggish to me no matter the battery, temperature, etc.

Cold Idle: smooth as butter now...used to be a little rough, would die on occasion

Acceleration: very noticeable seat-of-the-pants improvement overall, with a much smoother feeling and quicker run-up

Shifting: a bit smoother, I think because it doesn't drop rpm's as abruptly

Flat Spot: still there at 4,000-5,000 rpm in 5th though much improved, barely noticeable in 4th, and absent in lower gears...this only occurs with an abrupt twist of the wrist. If I smoothly roll on the throttle it isn't an issue.

OVERALL, 9.5 out of a possible 10!

Good on you, Poolside and JohnJen...Thanks

I'm ready to order the IICE cool.
UPDATE: I have ridden about 1,400 miles since installing the IICE-AIR, including an 800 mile ride varying from hot, arid, 4000' elevation desert to cooler, humid 9000' elevation mountain terrain. I'm more than satisfied with the performance improvement. I made a change from the -10 degree setting to the -20 degree setting when it became obvious it was running rich at higher elevations (and which had an immediately noticeable positive effect).

During that ride, I averaged 48 and 51 mpg on each of two tanks of gas, which has never happened before. Otherwise, I continue to average 40-42 mpg with this bike even though I am much more spirited with the throttle. I did do a cam chain tensioner upgrade right after installing the IICE-AIR...I have no idea if that might be a factor.

I've left it at the -20 degree setting since returning to the desert environment where it's been in the 90's, and haven't reset yet. Performance is still much improved compared to pre-IICE-AIR.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:57 PM   #1409
RomaDakota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrysingfeenix View Post
I made a change from the -10 degree setting to the -20 degree setting when it became obvious it was running rich at higher elevations.
Shouldn't it become richer as the mock temp is reduced?
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:10 PM   #1410
wrysingfeenix
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The opposite...

From page 44, post #657
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
I see what you mean, let me tighten up my definitions a little.

Really Hot = Summer
Really Cold = Winter

Before you throw tomatoes at me, let me explain.

I'm sure you understand the IICE Air is adjustable to one of 4 offsets. 0C, -10C, -20C, and -30C. And I'm guessing you understand that the air density over temperature curve isn't linear. The density/temperature curve is steeper at low densities, and shallower at high densities.

The four adjustments, zero and 3 negative offsets, allow a 'four point curve fit', so to speak. You can feel the difference between the settings, and one offset will feel better than the other two. You can also smell the difference between the settings. If the offset is right, the smallest whiff of fuel is evident in the exhaust. Acourse that's hard to determine when you're moving.

At what temperature to adjust the IICE Air offset isn't a complicated thing. It doesn't benefit from a 'retentive' focus, but I realize that a lot of people want to pore over it.

I maybe would start here? (The question mark is for real. Like I said, I don't think about it.)
-10C setting for ≥ 85F/29C
-20C setting for in between
-30C setting for ≤ 50F/10C

Or the simpler,
Really Hot = Summer = -10C offset
Rest of the time = -20C offset
Really Cold = Winter = -30C offset

I hope that covers it for you. If there is anyone born to pore over details, that person is me. And I don't spend any time thinking about it.

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