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Old 04-26-2011, 06:19 AM   #151
HighFive OP
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Yes, if its black, its definitely time to replace that brake fluid. Just flush it out with new Dot 4 fluid.

HF
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:39 PM   #152
LaPorte
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6,000 mile service

Quote:
Originally Posted by LaPorte View Post
I just went over 6000 miles and I was woundering what is covered in the dealers 6000 mile service. I ment to call my dealer last week but didn't get around to it. Besides oil and filter change what does the dealer do, and what is the typical charge?
If it's no more than oil and filter change, clutch cable adjustment, chain adjustment, wheel bearing inspection than that's all been done by me a number of times and there is no reason for me to bring it in to the dealers.

LaPorte
I called my dealer this morning and asked about the 6,000 mile service. It's pretty much as I though.

Oil and Filter Change
Check clutch cable
Check steering head nut
Re-set OBC
Check out the bike (what ever that means)
$250.00
For a little extra they will change the brake fluid front and rear
$84.00

Other than the OBC, can do at home.

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Old 04-26-2011, 02:13 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motocrossross View Post
Ok, maybe i should have bought a KLR..... Ive owned bikes my whole life and have been running full wrap hand guards since 1988, but ive never paid more than 60 bucks for a pair....
Am i being a tightwad? Should i just cave and spend the bucks for the ones that bolt up easily?
Barkbusters are the best crash protection I've ever purchased for the F8. They sit just right to keep the soft spots on the bike from touching the tarmac when it falls asleep (and don't bend). Kept the plastic from getting scratched when I high sided without crash bars.

Seriously though, excellent protection for hands and the bike. I balked at cost when I went to purchase them too but am sure glad I listened to other riders and dropped the dime.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:21 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaPorte View Post
Check out the bike (what ever that means)
$250.00
"Check out the bike" means run down the service checklist. It's actually a fairly lengthy list but if you know your bike there is no reason you couldn't do it yourself. My dealer takes the tires off, inspects the bearings, brake pads, hoses, lines, fluids etc. It's normal routine maintenance stuff. They also clean the chain and re-grease it so that it looks like it did when it came out of the package and adjust tension.

If you do the checks yourself make sure you pay attention to the rear brake pad -> It wears fast and mine almost got to "gouge the rotor" stage last month. It's the one part on my bike that I seem to fail to check often enough.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:26 PM   #155
soph9
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what is the best chain lube for the Alaska type roads like the Dempster, Dalton and Robert Campbell highways?
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:15 PM   #156
JoelWisman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Barkbusters are the best crash protection I've ever purchased for the F8. They sit just right to keep the soft spots on the bike from touching the tarmac when it falls asleep (and don't bend). Kept the plastic from getting scratched when I high sided without crash bars.

Seriously though, excellent protection for hands and the bike. I balked at cost when I went to purchase them too but am sure glad I listened to other riders and dropped the dime.
I've had barkbusters and oem on my bike. I've bent both but in my opinion the oem is the stronger by a fair margin.
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:12 PM   #157
Jamm
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Should I use anti-sieze?

I just installed Ad-spec crash bars and looked around for the torque requirements for the top side bolt (the engine mount bolt behind the plastic bung) and found it to be 29.5 ft/lbs. I used medium strength threadlock but am now wondering if I should have used anti-sieze on it instead. The torque value seems low even for aluminum so I want to make sure that particulatr bolt doesn't loosen up. What is everyone else doing?
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:53 PM   #158
dendrophobe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soph9 View Post
what is the best chain lube for the Alaska type roads like the Dempster, Dalton and Robert Campbell highways?
I'd say something like the Dupont Teflon multi-use spray. It goes on dry, so it doesn't pick up any crud. I've used it on and offroad a fair amount, and it's the least tacky lube I've found.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:16 PM   #159
JoelWisman
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Heres a typical 6000 mile service

Step :1 enter VIN into DCS service history, brings up all previous warranty repairs, in-service date, and most importantly any recalls, service bullitens, and campaigns.

Step :2 enter date and mileage of last service into the RSD dynamic service builder, then enter the current date and mileage. Some items are time dependent, some are mileage, and some change depending if you check off road use. These intervals also change over time as more knoweledge is gained.

Step :3 Do the service spit out by RSD, bellow is a typical example but they vary a lot.
Customer
Registration No.
Odometer reading
Order No.
Date
Mechanic's signature






00 00 111 BMW Service
Reading fault memory with BMW Motorrad diagnostic system
11 00 611 Oil change, engine, with filter
Annually or every 10,000 km
13 72 508 Checking or replacing air filter element (for maintenance)
For off-roading
Checking coolant level
Check/adjust clutch play
Checking front brake pads and brake discs for wear
Checking rear brake pads and brake disc for wear
34 00 504 Change brake fluid in entire system
initially after one year, then every two years
Visually inspecting brake pipes, brake hoses and connections
Checking spoke tension, adjusting if necessary
Checking tyre pressures and tread depth
Checking and lubricating chain drive
Checking ease of movement of side stand
Check the steering-head bearing
Final inspection and check of roadworthiness
Reading fault memory with BMW Motorrad diagnostic system
Setting service-due date and service countdown distance
Next service due on
4/26/2012
or in
6.220 Miles
Odometer reading
13.030 Miles

Checking battery charge state
Confirming BMW Service in on-board documentation
FRU total
17



Next, do whatever shop centeric services that are made policy by management for a given model. In my shop for K72 its: check torque of fastners for wheel, caliper, windshield, skidplate, shock upper bolt. Check for play in front and rear wheel bearing.

Then comes the road worthyness check: A 10 minuet check ride
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:22 PM   #160
soph9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dendrophobe View Post
I'd say something like the Dupont Teflon multi-use spray. It goes on dry, so it doesn't pick up any crud. I've used it on and offroad a fair amount, and it's the least tacky lube I've found.
funny that is what we are using now...the only thing I noticed over the winter with the liquid salt on the roads and crap was my chain starting to get a lot of rust marks...now, I did not wipe the chain after every ride and it was really wet this winter so maybe I am to blame.

the hard thing with this lube is telling if it is on....you are right not tacky so I guess when we go on our trip just clean and apply as often as we can while on those roads that would call for it eh?
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:04 PM   #161
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Joel....now that there is a nice answer to a question (from a dealer, no less). Thanks. Looks like all the stuff I'm doing to my bike on a regular basis anyway. Except for resetting the OBC. Guess I'm good until the 12K inspection. Isn't that when the valves need a check? Also, any easy way to just reset the OBC so it quits barking that overdue Service Date at me? Probably not....but I had to ask a Stupid Question. Its the Rules.

Jamm....I like anti-seize in certain places (like pinch bolts in triple clamp and axle clamps), but I wouldn't use it on my engine guard mounts. I recommend the medium (blue) loctite for that application + a quality torque wrench to spec.

Soph9....I have fallen in love with the special Sidewinder SS-51 Chainlube made by Krause Racing. Here's the Linky: http://sidewindersprockets.com/ss51.html

This chainlube has worked fantastic for me! I'm real picky about my chain maintenance. I like to keep a clean, well lubed chain for many reasons. This chain poop works as advertised. I've torture tested it for over 2 years on multiple bikes (including offroad competition). It goes on clear, and doesn't fling off much (especially if you give it an overnight drying time). And it keeps my chain adequately lubed over 500 miles, thru any condition. Its a little pricey, but it last so long and performs so much better than anything else I've used, its definitely worth the extra expense to me. Love it....Love it....Love it!

HF

p.s. they have a multiple can discount....4 or 5 cans (I forget). Try it, you'll like it.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:25 PM   #162
Flashback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
I've had barkbusters and oem on my bike. I've bent both but in my opinion the oem is the stronger by a fair margin.
Well you must be harder on yours than I am on mine Trees, boulders, and the occasional less than 25 mph drop on tarmac have toasted two sets of plastic covers on mine but the bars have suffered barely a scratch.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:40 PM   #163
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Noises

A couple questions...

1) My F8 kinda sounds like a diesel when its idling, Realy klunky sounding. Nowhere off Idle. Anybody else hear that?

2) My breaks sound awful. Squeeling and growning at speeds close to a stop, stop signs and stuff. I took the pads out. their fine. Rotor surface is fine. Is it just that way???
I'm coming off a uly with the worst break knock I.ve even experienced and nothing could be dont about.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:50 PM   #164
Flashback
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Location: Mariana Islands via Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soph9 View Post
the hard thing with this lube is telling if it is on....you are right not tacky so I guess when we go on our trip just clean and apply as often as we can while on those roads that would call for it eh?
I'm in the same boat as you with salty wet riding. Have to deal with it from the first week in December till the beginning of March. 20's at night. 30's during the day. Liquid Brine applied to the roads before every storm and every major freeze. I'm also terrible about doing regular chain maintenance.

In the winter my chain stays wet and salty day in and day out. I've even ended up riding behind the salt truck by shear bad luck. Salt fogs can't be good for a bike.

Found out that dry lube (I use the one sold by my dealer) doesn't do much to prevent salt corrosion as things began rusting.

I also found in removing my sprockets that the dry lube does nothing to minimize corrosion of the fittings on the front sprocket where it mates with the engine. Had to heat and hammer mine off in January it was so corroded.

I don't get upset by wear and tear on a bike often but in this case the rust was way over the top and clearly caused by the conditions in which I was riding. That was when I decided to dump the dry in the winter time and move back to the wet.

There are probably more expensive and more proper chain lubricants out there but since I started using Liquid Wrench universal chain and cable wet lubricant ($3.99/can) I have had no more problems with corrosion & no more problems with rusted sprocket connections @ the engine. I just make sure that my chain stays properly covered with gunk in the winter now.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:58 PM   #165
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I'm worried about salt and corrosion on my bike + chain, so I use Corrosion Block, aka ACF-50. You can buy it at West Marine here in the USA.

I clean my chain before the winter, cover it with Corrosion Block, and then lube it. I cover most of my bike with Corrosion Block, too (within reason).

There are threads on advrider all about this stuff. It's popular on ukgser as well. I like telling people about it because it just freakin works.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
I'm in the same boat as you with salty wet riding. Have to deal with it from the first week in December till the beginning of March. 20's at night. 30's during the day. Liquid Brine applied to the roads before every storm and every major freeze. I'm also terrible about doing regular chain maintenance.

In the winter my chain stays wet and salty day in and day out. I've even ended up riding behind the salt truck by shear bad luck. Salt fogs can't be good for a bike.

Found out that dry lube (I use the one sold by my dealer) doesn't do much to prevent salt corrosion as things began rusting.

I also found in removing my sprockets that the dry lube does nothing to minimize corrosion of the fittings on the front sprocket where it mates with the engine. Had to heat and hammer mine off in January it was so corroded.

I don't get upset by wear and tear on a bike often but in this case the rust was way over the top and clearly caused by the conditions in which I was riding. That was when I decided to dump the dry in the winter time and move back to the wet.

There are probably more expensive and more proper chain lubricants out there but since I started using Liquid Wrench universal chain and cable wet lubricant ($3.99/can) I have had no more problems with corrosion & no more problems with rusted sprocket connections @ the engine. I just make sure that my chain stays properly covered with gunk in the winter now.
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