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Old 10-10-2013, 12:52 PM   #1741
RexBuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA Slammer View Post
That's a good point...

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1) Get a decent voltmeter - helps you tell exactly what is going on when you turn gear on or off. And, more importantly, when you really don't have a problem.

2) Think about finding a way to get rid of the heated gloves. I'm not judging you, just seems a little overkill to have both heated grips and heated gloves . . . particularly when you are concerned about power use. Maybe get a good pair of insulated winter gloves.
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Old 10-10-2013, 02:36 PM   #1742
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA Slammer View Post
Princess? FYYFF... and I mean that in the nicest way. Bless your heart. ;-)

All kidding aside, I hate being told that's just the way it is or that it can't be done. But even more so that BMW doesn't think it important to not limit themselves. There should always be a fix.

Oh well, time to "suck it up", so I've been told. BTW, I've already climbed mountains in Alaska and Canada. That is why I took up the pansy-ass "sport" of riding motorcycles. ;-)

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Something to think about..... I am not sure how much you are short ( wattage) but you can save a few watts by replacing the parking lamp with a led, and the low and perhaps high beam with a HID. I have done the HID, and they run at about 32Watts apiece. The stock parking light bulb is available in led at www.superbrightleds.com
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Old 10-10-2013, 02:47 PM   #1743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA Slammer View Post
Princess? FYYFF... and I mean that in the nicest way. Bless your heart. ;-)

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You don't srike me as the Princess type, Don't you just love the looks you get from Cagers when it's that cold out.

Priceless.
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Old 10-10-2013, 04:35 PM   #1744
PA Slammer
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Coming up out of Bozeman in the snow last October, I was giving myself those looks!

The gloves have heat on the tops of the hands. The grips are on the palms. Something I didn't think of until I really needed/wanted both.

HID just made it to the top of the list.

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Old 10-11-2013, 12:29 AM   #1745
RexBuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA Slammer View Post

The gloves have heat on the tops of the hands. The grips are on the palms. Something I didn't think of until I really needed/wanted both.


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Not trying to but you'd be surprised on how well good gloves keep your hands warm with a little heat underneath.
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:04 PM   #1746
Pangia
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Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA
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Question Loctite Question / Engine Guards

On my last trip I fell over three times and before that I probably fell over a few other times since my local dealer installed SW Motech crash bars for me. The crash bars have protected the plastics, but are now closer to the radiator on the right side. I thought that if I loosened some of the bolts that mount the bars, I could reposition the crash bars, make them a bit more centered and perhaps get a little more even distribution of protection from them than if they were left uneven.

My question is:

Now that I have loosened all the steel bolts that seat into the engine about 1 revolution (steel into aluminum) should I remove the bolts all the way and apply fresh blue loctite and then reinstall to torque?...or can I just retighten them without fresh blue loctite and be ok?

My local dealer installed the bars and it looks like blue loctite was used when they installed them.

I appreciate your help - Thank you!!

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Pangia screwed with this post 10-13-2013 at 05:50 PM Reason: clarification
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:58 PM   #1747
ebrabaek
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Location: Grand Valley, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pangia View Post
On my last trip I fell over three times and before that I probably fell over a few other times since my local dealer installed SW Motech crash bars for me. The crash bars have protected the plastics, but are now closer to the radiator on the right side. I thought that if I loosened some of the bolts that mount the bars, I could reposition the crash bars, make them a bit more centered and perhaps get a little more even distribution of protection from them than if they were left uneven.

My question is:

Now that I have loosened all the steel bolts that seat into the engine about 1 revolution (steel into aluminum) should I remove the bolts all the way and apply fresh blue loctite and then reinstall to torque?...or can I just retighten them without fresh blue loctite and be ok?

My local dealer installed the bars and it looks like blue loctite was used when they installed them.

I appreciate your help - Thank you!!

Pangia
Blue is ok, red is somewhat permanent, and thus should not be used. I personally don't think it is necessary to use any loctite. Did you get them straight....????
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:44 PM   #1748
Pangia
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better...but not perfect....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Blue is ok, red is somewhat permanent, and thus should not be used. I personally don't think it is necessary to use any loctite. Did you get them straight....????
ebrabaek - thank you for the reply. I was able to get the SW Motech crash bars more evenly aligned, but not perfect. I pulled each bolt out and applied blue loctite, then torqued to spec.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:07 PM   #1749
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pangia View Post
ebrabaek - thank you for the reply. I was able to get the SW Motech crash bars more evenly aligned, but not perfect. I pulled each bolt out and applied blue loctite, then torqued to spec.
Good deal. Mine has only been down on a snow/ice hill....going backwards, and they did not need realignment.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:36 AM   #1750
RexBuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Blue is ok, red is somewhat permanent, and thus should not be used. I personally don't think it is necessary to use any loctite. Did you get them straight....????
I originally didn't loctite mine. After my bike has flopped around on the ground like a fish out of water over the past couple of years, I noticed one of the bolts missing and one loose. Hell of a time getting a replacement spacer. New bolts all in and now loctited.
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:17 AM   #1751
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RexBuck View Post
I originally didn't loctite mine. After my bike has flopped around on the ground like a fish out of water over the past couple of years, I noticed one of the bolts missing and one loose. Hell of a time getting a replacement spacer. New bolts all in and now loctited.
Cant argue with that.... Blue loctite it is....
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:41 PM   #1752
xymotic
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Cant argue with that.... Blue loctite it is....
I put teflon anti seize on everything except red loctite on the engine mount, brake rotor and a couple spots on the engine like the cam gear. Loctite causes WAY more problems that it usually solves
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:30 PM   #1753
Scubalong
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Question Rear break light

I switch my tires to Heidenau and noticed my tail light is flashing from time to time. Have anyone have the same problem? Is there anyway to adjust the break to stop the flashing? I test the rear break and it seem to be sensitive to the touch. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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Old 10-16-2013, 02:12 PM   #1754
duffs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubalong View Post
I switch my tires to Heidenau and noticed my tail light is flashing from time to time. Have anyone have the same problem? Is there anyway to adjust the break to stop the flashing? I test the rear break and it seem to be sensitive to the touch. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Scub
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Sounds like a bad connection on your brake/tail lamp as it should not flash regardless of what tyre you have fitted. Is the computer reporting a bulb issue? Check the connectors which should run along the side underneath the seat.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:16 PM   #1755
PA Slammer
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ABS sensor bent during tire swap?

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