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Old 05-05-2011, 08:37 PM   #196
Flashback
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I've never heard of an F8 shifting itself into neutral at red line. Doesn't mean that it hasn't happened, just that this is the first I've heard of it. You know, neutral is just a quick down tap (possibly accidental or not even conscious) from 2'nd. It's easy to flick the foot the wrong way when startled by an unforeseen event like a red line.

The problem I have in believing the bike shifted on it's own at red line is that the pressure on the transmission inside the engine just wouldn't let it (at least not without a lot of serious banging and clunking). Clutch free shifting requires a very specific set of internal tensions and conditions be in existence. Those conditions don't exist at red line.

Now if you were going from 1 to 2 it is possible for the bike to find neutral accidentally as it passes by it. When you peg the throttle in neutral thinking you are in second it'll quickly red line because there's no transmission engagement.

As far as the powerband goes, I don't recall redline till in the high 40's in 1'st. 2'nd redlines somewhere around 70 mph I believe.

Could it be possible that you were still in 1'st instead of 2'nd when things went wonky? That would explain the slip into neutral.

(If I'm using the 17 Tooth Front sprocket instead of the 16 tooth stocker I can shoot all the way from 0 to 60 in first)
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:15 AM   #197
grndzr0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fronnzy View Post
Thanks for the fuel responses fella's.



Did you attempt to make the shift but instead found a false neutral between 2 and 3, or did the bike actually kick itself down to neutral i.e. between 1 and 2?

I know there is a warning lamp that kicks on at redline, but I can't find anything in the manual about kicking you back down to neutral. Doesn't sound right, probably just a missed shift. But there are some much more experienced people on this board that are sure to chime in...


My bike is at about 3500, and about the last week, it has seemed to take some extra effort to get it from 1st to 2nd. I just have to be conscience about it. SOMETIMES if im not paying attention, it almost makes it to second, then hits neutral, it has become more habit for me to really ram it home, or feel that it misses, and hit it again.always goes the second time.

I dont know???
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:01 AM   #198
rediRrakaD
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Fuel filling...
The red tube removal takes less then 5 minutes, and I haven't spilled a drop since.
No cutting necessary, just wiggle/pull after removing the top plate.
Don't drop the screws.
This mod allows you to angle the nozzle with ease and add at least 1 more ounce.
(maybe 2 or 3)
S.
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:36 PM   #199
grndzr0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiTown View Post
Have you changed the oil yet?

I seemed to notice rougher shifting around/after 3000 miles, that went away with fresh oil.... maybe it's in my head but that's my experience.
I havn't decided what to do about the oil yet.... Too many people saying too many different things, i suppose it cant hurt to at least change the oil.
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:40 PM   #200
soph9
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Hey why not ride up to where we live and change our steering head bearings or whatever they are...not covered under warranty..we have 2 bikes that have the same issue with 10000 KM difference...hmmmmmmmmmmm...if BMW does it will cost in and around $400 per bike...
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:46 PM   #201
Westy99
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Alright I guess it's my turn...

When do the brakes stop sqeakin' and sqawkin'? I noticed it day once but figured there was a little break in period and mine was a left over '10 so I figured it had sat for awhile.

I'm a bit over 500 miles now and it's not as bad but they still sqeak like hell. I've got an appointment next week for my 600 mile service so I'm wondering if it's something they should be looking into or if it's the nature of the beast (hope that isn't the case).
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:00 PM   #202
exotesthrasouden
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Thanks for the help Fronnzy and Flashback. It was probably me not noticing that I touched the shifter and at those RPMs it wouldn't take too much to speed shift. It was a humbling experience.
thanks again
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Old 05-07-2011, 01:10 AM   #203
grndzr0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy99 View Post
Alright I guess it's my turn...

When do the brakes stop sqeakin' and sqawkin'? I noticed it day once but figured there was a little break in period and mine was a left over '10 so I figured it had sat for awhile.

I'm a bit over 500 miles now and it's not as bad but they still sqeak like hell. I've got an appointment next week for my 600 mile service so I'm wondering if it's something they should be looking into or if it's the nature of the beast (hope that isn't the case).

I have a left over 10 as well, have had it a month with around 3500 miles, just was noticing how squeaky they were today, but i don't think they are squeaky all the time, or i think i would notice it more, but they were pretty loud today.
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Old 05-07-2011, 04:35 AM   #204
soph9
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Bearings

Anyone know of a good online store to buy steering head bearings, DID chains and sprockets? Reliable online company?
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:14 AM   #205
HighFive OP
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Bearing Source

Soph, If I'm riding thru BC....book it. I'll come over and do it for you. That would be worth the ride, anyway. Maybe next year...?

Here's the manufacture info for the steering stem bearings in my bike:

http://www.ntnamerica.com/products/b...id=TRMET&ctc=B

Basic spec's for this tapered bearing are:

OD 52mm
Bore 28mm
Width 16mm

My favorite source for bearings (all kinds) is Motion Industries:

http://www.motionindustries.com/moti...mii/index.html

They offer many brands including the NTN. Personally, I'd recommend the SKF. I have a local store, so have never bought from them online. Their site indicates they are all over Canada too.

I've not looked up the cross-reference for the correct SKF part #. But, they could help with that. I think they sell them online. If not, at least you have a part number to reference now.

HF
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HighFive screwed with this post 05-07-2011 at 06:20 AM
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:23 AM   #206
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awesome, thanks! there is a dealer not far from us...just sent them an email asking if they stock bearings for our bikes...I know with a little patience we can do it...but if you are ever in our neck of the woods stop by we have beer in the garage fridge
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:48 AM   #207
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FYI....you don't have to remove any of your exterior plastic (bike, side panels, etc), fairing, or instrument cluster to do it. The steering stem is easily accessible after removing the wheel, & lower fender, then dropping out the forks...from the bottom side. Remove the handlebars (& steering damper, if applicable) from the top side.

Then, you can remove the steering stem mount bolt on top, separate the triples and pull it out. Voila! Just don't forget you have an additional pinch bolt up top securing that main steering stem adjuster/anchor bolt.

You may also want to remove that circular black mud guard underneath the bottom triple clamp too, before separating the stem. Makes it easier to see, hold, and work with. There is one brake line clamp bolt connected there, as well. Think that covers everything.

HF
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:51 AM   #208
soph9
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do we just replace the bearings or the entire housing...stupid question I know but that is what this thread is for thanks for all the tips...like the idea if not having to remove all the plastic...how many hours so you reckon it will take?
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Old 05-07-2011, 07:32 AM   #209
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Just the bearings....but only if they are worn out (meaning loose and sloppy with lots of side play). Stick your finger thru the bearing ID tightly to hold it still. Then grab the outside housing and wiggle it around. See if there lots of side to side play (real sloppy), or if it is fairly snug to the rollers. Also, see how well it turns on the rollers. If its sticky, grindy, or rusted, replace it. If the outer housing is loose and sloppy, replace it. Otherwise, if its fairly snug and spins without too much force, its probably just fine and only needs a cleaning and re-greasing.

Next, inspect the bearing race(s). Those will be mounted in the top and bottom of the frame where the steering stem mates (and where the bearings sit and do their work). Wipe clean and look for pitting &/or corrosion. Run your finger around the race feeling for smoothness or lack of. If it is bumpy, grooved, or corroded bad, then the race should be replaced. That will take some effort with the proper tools and may be more appropriate for a mechanic. Recruit some experienced help and/or take it to the shop.

If the race feels nice and smooth, which is usually the case, then its probably ok to leave it in place. While its best to always use a new bearing race with a new bearing, I've never had a problem re-using the old race (with a new steering bearing of same brand) when it felt nice and smooth, in good shape.

When you lift off the top triple clamp, you will see small plastic grease cover on the frame. Remove that and the top bearing is right underneath. That will lift off with your finger. Its just sitting there in the race.

The bottom bearing will be pressed (stuck) onto the bottom of the steering stem. Its not so easily removed. Clean it, inspect it, check its condition. If its in good shape, I just re-grease it right there on the stem without removing it. Takes some work with your fingers to get the grease packed into it, but its certainly doable without removing from the stem.

If you need to replace it, and thus remove it, use some "heat". That will make it easier to force (knock, drive) off the stem. I usually get behind it with screwdriver and gentle hammer....working around a little at a time. Couple whacks and it dislodges and falls off. The new bearing must be pressed (knocked) on evenly and carefully, also. Best to slide something over the stem....like a small pvc pipe....and tap it into place. Or, you might just take the Stem to mechanic shop and ask them to swap out the bearings. That would be an easy, not too expensive, option.

75% of the time, the existing bearings just need to be cleaned and re-greased, unless the stem has been loose for a long time and taken abuse thru lots of pounding (bumps, jumps, etc). In that case, both the bearing and race should be replaced. The race would likely be worn out of round, or worse. Not something easily detected with the eye and finger method. Really, it all comes down to evaluating the old bearing. If its in bad shape, then I'm replacing bearing and race. If its in good shape, then I'm just cleaning and re-greasing old bearing or even replacing with a new bearing utilizing the same race. Good enough for me....I don't care if its "technically right or wrong". I will often make someone, somewhere squirm.


Now then, time to roundtrip this routine.....Hhhhmmmmm.

Good question....I'm usually doing multiple things at one time, so my projects can stretch out over a few days. If I was just going to remove, inspect, clean, re-grease, and reinstall.....I think it would be a 3 - 4 beer job. Second time around, probably only a 1 beer job. How many beers do you drink per hour? And, is the football game on TV while you're doing this?

Ok...maybe 3 hours first time around, if you go slow and carefully. Second time around, I could do the whole thing within 1 hour....no problem.

But, I always chase bunnies. I often find "other" things that need attention too, while I'm in the process. Which is really the best point, I guess, for pulling some of your own maintenance.

Just remember, The Creator does not deduct from your allotted time, those hours spent with your bike! So, take your time and enjoy the journey. Its good therapy.

HF
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Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:33 AM   #210
lookaught
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Highfive:

For the stem adjustment, I'm a bit confused about the tightening procedure:

Torque the adjusting bolt to 25nm, three turns across the full arc, then back out the bolt 60*, then retorque to 10nm?

Is this correct? Followed by torqueing the pinch bolts on the triple.

Thanks!
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