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Old 11-23-2010, 03:27 PM   #16
raider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive
Does BMW not know how to measure volume progressively in the tanks they build? Seriously....not being sarcastic. Seems they would use the same mold to make the tanks the same way, and then be able to measure volume (by sensor height incrementally, very accurately. But what do I know?
As Joel explained, the tank is not a perfectly regular shape. If it was, the sensor could span the entire vertical extent of the tank and be very accurate. However, it's full of bumps and protrusions and curves, and the floor is not level. So while the tank volume can be calculated quite precisely, the quantity of fuel within it cannot.

The fuel level sensor only occupies the lower portion of the tank. For simplicity, let's say it can measure the bottom half of the tank. It will thus tell the bike the tank is "full" if you have half a tank, a full tank, 5/8ths of a tank, 9/10ths of a tank, etc. Because it has no idea how much fuel is above its highest reading, it (politely) declines to guess, and thus you'll only see the fuel level begin to dip when you've used that first half of the tank. This is the same on my Wee.

It would, hypothetically, be possible to calculate instant fuel consumption (the OBC already does this), subtract that from the full tank volume, and display a full-tank level gauge. However, to be accurate this would rely on the rider filling the tank to the same level every time and then resetting the fuel gauge manually - and can you imagine the whining if BMW made that a requirement?

I use a hybrid OBC/brain-o-matic distance-to-empty method - assume the tank is 15 litres (giving me a 1-point-something-litre margin for error), and use the OBC's calculated average fuel consumption (which I reset each tankful). If it says, for example, 5.0L/100km, then my range is 300 and I'll start thinking about fuel at 250.

This is less easy for those of you saddled with miles, gallons and cubits, but still do-able
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:25 PM   #17
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That's nice explanation Raider, I get it. But I'm saying fuel always finds its own horizontal level regardless of tank shapes, bumps, turns, etc. A taller resistor gauge (or whatever they use) could easily have been installed. And the volumes at said intervals could easily have been measured. Most of the time the 'fuel remaining" would be read by the rider, the bike would reasonably be level.

I was just curious, its not worth further discussion as this input has been most helpful. Super thanks to all for the explanations.

Now....about that Charcoal Cannister. I'm glad Soyanarchisto asked that Stupid Question. And, I'd like to expand on it. Can we remove it? Should we remove it? Is it really needed anywhere besides California? If you did remove it, could an "outsider" still ride thru California legally? Will the bike run better without it?

I hate extra crapola attached to my bike which serves no useful purpose to me.

HF
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive
That's nice explanation Raider, I get it. But I'm saying fuel always finds its own horizontal level regardless of tank shapes, bumps, turns, etc. A taller resistor gauge (or whatever they use) could easily have been installed. And the volumes at said intervals could easily have been measured. Most of the time the 'fuel remaining" would be read by the rider, the bike would reasonably be level.

I was just curious, its not worth further discussion as this input has been most helpful. Super thanks to all for the explanations.

Now....about that Charcoal Cannister. I'm glad Soyanarchisto asked that Stupid Question. And, I'd like to expand on it. Can we remove it? Should we remove it? Is it really needed anywhere besides California? If you did remove it, could an "outsider" still ride thru California legally? Will the bike run better without it?

I hate extra crapola attached to my bike which serves no useful purpose to me.

HF
Short answers here, relatively sure no one will dispute this:

Yes, you can remove it. My dealer did it free of charge and the laws prevent denials of warranty just because you removed it. You will still be covered under warranty and you won't have to worry about it snorting water and stalling your engine.

California can't do jack about what you bring to ride there. My state Texas has no emissions laws for motorcycles (except you can't have new 2 strokes on the road ) and we can run whatever we want. If your bike is properly registered and inspected in a state like Texas you can ride it wherever you want to. You may have trouble getting an inspection in California though but who wants to do that?
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:36 PM   #19
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I have not got an 8 yet but can anyone tell me the parallel length on the fork tube machining that will allow the fork to be bought up through the triples to lower it, I am vertically challenged thus I am curious to find this out, many thanks Andi.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:39 PM   #20
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So....is there a proper procedure for said removal of canister? Is there an AIS system that must come out and some blocking plates needed with it, and all that jazz?

Or can it just be snipped off and sprayed with some antiseptic like collecting the Mountain Oysters from those anxious young bulls in our pasture?

HF
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:43 PM   #21
soyanarchisto
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Here you go:

http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...rcoal-Canister

By the way, the reason I posed this question here is that the dealer told me removal did, indeed, void the warranty. I suspect what he meant was that it voided any warranty issues related to the canister.
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:26 PM   #22
itsatdm
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I suppose you could just pull the hose off the cannister that goes to the throttle body and plug it. Pull the hose on the cannister that goes to the tank and put a small filter on it, in case you have a reason to ever return it to stock for some reason .
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:46 PM   #23
Al Tuna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowRide13
And on that note; what is meant by 'reserve' on this bike?
You need to remember sight glasses lie it might just be gas
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:29 AM   #24
Wildman
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Hey, I got one of these. If I'm washing the bike with a jet spray, is there any part of the bike I should be cautious about blasting with the spray for fear of drowning it in some way?
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:32 AM   #25
Al Tuna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildman
Hey, I got one of these. If I'm washing the bike with a jet spray, is there any part of the bike I should be cautious about blasting with the spray for fear of drowning it in some way?
Yep
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:59 AM   #26
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HighFive

Your the greatest. Thanks for starting the stupid question thread. I don't have a service manual yet and looking for torque values. Maybe someone can post the ones they know.
Thanks
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:06 AM   #27
Al Tuna
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torque values ? all bolts are easley looked up on google but keep in mind they are steel into steel. mfg torque values must be adheared to.

unless your a ham fist.
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:07 AM   #28
soyanarchisto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Tuna
Yep
Well that was helpful.
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:14 AM   #29
EnderTheX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildman
Hey, I got one of these. If I'm washing the bike with a jet spray, is there any part of the bike I should be cautious about blasting with the spray for fear of drowning it in some way?
I'll try this one, someone double check my work here though...


Don't spray:

- directly on the sides of either wheel hub, at the bearing seals
- into the exhaust
- into the intake
- directly on the edge of the tail light
- directly on the edge of the instrument cluster
- directly into the chain grooves
- directly into the shock dust wiper
- directly into any button

Basically you don't want to spray into O-rings or into the exhaust or intake.... Most of these that I said "directly" you can spray from 3 feet away so it isn't pressurized, just don't get real close.
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:25 AM   #30
Al Tuna
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I pressure wash my bikes the real trick is if your a hamfist don't do IT!
and the engineering idiots can hand wash there bikes.

If you don't fit in then you might be ADV qualified.
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