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Old 07-30-2011, 08:11 PM   #406
eddyturn
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OK... so my clutch action seems to start when cold about half way out on the lever but not a lot. When warmed up shortly there after all the action seems to be at the end of the lever travel. I can shift just barely pulling in the lever. So I am looking at the little owner's manual and it shows how to adjust the clutch play on the engine end of the cable but the book speaks to more or less clutch play but says to turn nut 2 upward. I am not clicking with upward...
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Old 08-07-2011, 05:01 PM   #407
CheckerdD
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Mostly I have not owned a chain drive bike since the BSA days. I am going to South America in October, so I have been watching a lot of U-tube on places along the way. There are a couple of KTM riders that complain that Ruta 40 dust ate their sprockets. So my question is what is the normal sprocket life on an F800 with normal use?

Given that wear is apparent for some time, and there are dealers, I was not planing on bringing. Dave
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:56 PM   #408
Bayner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheckerdD View Post
Mostly I have not owned a chain drive bike since the BSA days. I am going to South America in October, so I have been watching a lot of U-tube on places along the way. There are a couple of KTM riders that complain that Ruta 40 dust ate their sprockets. So my question is what is the normal sprocket life on an F800 with normal use?

Given that wear is apparent for some time, and there are dealers, I was not planing on bringing. Dave

I replaced mine after 30k kms. Still looked pretty good actually. I would think you could go the whole shot on a decent quality, new on departure chain. You can tell when they are reaching the end by the simple fact that you will be adjusting the chain regularly after a long period of not having to at all. Seek replacement parts at that point. There's of course a butload of opinions on chain lube and it's merits... my thoughts are that lubed is better than not, especially to reduce sprocket wear. However, I also try to avoid lubing at times when it will do little besides create a nice lapping compound. YMMV
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Old 08-08-2011, 05:41 AM   #409
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Chain stretch is correlated to chain tensile strength, more so than useful life remaining. Chains that are 10,000 psi tensile strength, and above, will experience much less stretch than weaker chains that are 7,000 psi, or less. Stretch is usually experienced over the whole length in such cases. Bothersome, but not problematic if you monitor & adjust your chain tension frequently.

The best way to evaluate your chain condition, in terms of useful life, is to monitor closely how it fits on the teeth of your rear sprocket. With the chain under proper tension, pull on a link at the back of your rear sprocket (i.e. parallel to the swingarm....in line with the axle). See how much slack there is between the teeth and the links. Initially, this should be fairly tight. Over time, it will loosen....gaining a bit more slack.

The roller links wear, as do the sprocket teeth. When things get too loose, the chain may begin lurching (hammering) on the sprocket teeth. This is commonly causes that hooked shape in the teeth. Replace both your sprockets and chain at the same time. Putting a new chain on an old set of teeth, will prematurely wear the chain....due to excessive slop between the teeth. It will get you by in a pinch, of course, but not be good for long term use.

There are simple little tools that measure distance between links.....to indicate wear / useful life....called a chain gauge. Handy gadgets....just a thin piece of metal with some pointers to fit between the links. Easy way to check if your chain is in or out of spec. Used to have one, but someone borrowed it......forever. I need to find me another one of those thingys.

HF
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:50 PM   #410
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You can use a simple ruler or tape measure. 500 series chains are 5/8'' pin center to pin center so 16 links are 10'' pin center to pin center. However much over 10'' to that 16th pin is how much it has stretched (worn)

I'd like to ask again about flooding out and how best to remedy it. Mine decided to take a nap in a creek once (water was effin cold) and after it started up and ran except for it stuttered around 2000/2500 rpm for a while. I was glad it fixt itself but sort of wondered what I would have done if it hadn't.
thx
Christi
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:32 AM   #411
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Thanks for the chain info.

If you flood an 800 your really in deep. I have never done it to any bike. I always stop at the edge of the stream and at least look at the water. Then when I cross I am not going to fast so as to splash water into the intake. I have had two riding buddies who flooded an R80 and R100. The first struggled to get the bike out of the stream. We took off the plugs before starting and some water did squirt out. We tipped the bike over an each side and cranked it again leaned over. Then after letting the motor air for 20 minutes we put the plugs in and it started and ran fine on the way home - and to an oil change.

The other one belonged to a guy who was behind us. He went through a creek and it stopped running. He tried to crank it in the middle a couple of times, but it would not start. That was enough to break a wrist pin.
Dave
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:47 PM   #412
Joelev
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Suspension Adjusting

My F800 is the first bike I've had where I've actually been loading a lot of weight up (not to mention I'm a better rider now). I have no idea how--or if--I should be trying to adjust my front and rear suspension. How often are people changing their suspension settings?
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:38 PM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelev View Post
My F800 is the first bike I've had where I've actually been loading a lot of weight up (not to mention I'm a better rider now). I have no idea how--or if--I should be trying to adjust my front and rear suspension. How often are people changing their suspension settings?
There is no adjustment on the front that I'm aware of. The rear pre-load should be adjusted so the bike sags about 1/3 of the total suspension travel with you and the luggage on the bike. That is just a starting point. You need to fine tune it for you and your style of riding. I like mine a little soft for rough roads, but not so soft that it bottoms out. I like it a little firmer for fast riding. I find the rebound set for the middle works best. Too much rebound and you tend to lose traction on washboard roads.
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:42 PM   #414
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My front brakes have been squeaky since pretty much day on on my f800gs Not on hard braking but just slowing down to a stop at a traffic light. It has about 2000 miles on it now and the sound has yet to go away. My xr650l front brakes did it to and I was told when the xrs brakes stop squeaking then its time for new pads. Is this the same way with the f800gs?
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:15 AM   #415
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No....I don't think so. Sometimes brakes squeak, sometimes they don't. Usually its after they get wet, or scratched, and then it works its way out. If yours has been squeaking constantly since day one, something is up. Pull the caliper off the rotor for a good inspection. Check the following things:

1) Inspect and feel the rotor surface. Is it smooth or rough? Does it have grooves which have been cut into it (by pads)?

2) Remove the pads from caliper and inspect the surface. Is it smooth or rough? If its rough and has raised grooves, then those are probably what have cut grooves into your rotor surface (or a pebble lodged in there....until it dissolved).

How worn is the pad? Is it thick or thin? If thin and grooved, its probably been sticking to the rotor and grinding away. I've found that to be the cause of a squeaking situation in the past (on other bikes).

3) Smooth / scuff the rotor a bit using a scotchbrite pad. Get after it....you won't hurt it.

4) If there is plenty of pad life remaining, try smoothing / scuffing the pad surface a good bit using file, sandpaper, etc.

Give the pad and rotors a "fresh start" to remate with each other. Sometimes that eliminates a squeaky situation after a while.

5) Also, make sure the caliper puck is not "sticking". Push it slowly inward all the way. Then, using the brake lever, carefully push it back out. Make sure you don't push it out too far.....stick a thin block of wood, screwdriver, something to stop the pucks about half-way. Work them back and forth a bit to make sure they are moving freely. If a caliper puck is sticking, it can keep the pad against the rotor.....making it grind a groove in both surfaces and start squeaking.

6) Worst case scenario, change out the components and rebuild the calipers with new seals and fresh brake fluid. Option of very last resort.

Hope that helps you sort it out on your own. Dealership might look at it and find another problem altogether....I donno....maybe a warranty issue. But most importantly, how does the brake action feel? If it feels good....feels right, then its probably functioning properly, and the sqeaking is only annoying, until sorted/worked out. Use process of elimination approach.

HF

p.s. if rotor feels smooth, then scuff it to get the glaze off, and try a different type of brake pad material. That's another good option.
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:23 AM   #416
JoelWisman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacoma87 View Post
My front brakes have been squeaky since pretty much day on on my f800gs Not on hard braking but just slowing down to a stop at a traffic light. It has about 2000 miles on it now and the sound has yet to go away. My xr650l front brakes did it to and I was told when the xrs brakes stop squeaking then its time for new pads. Is this the same way with the f800gs?
The pad and rotor material combination on the F800GS has very high temperature, high friction, good friction when cold and wet, AND is prone to squeak.

Certain braking styles will keep it from squeaking, others make it more likely.

Due to the way most people ride dealer demonstrators, gently on brakes, the very bike that HighFive is riding squeaked every day of its life till I blasted the glazing off the day before he bought it from the falling leaf rally.

It is possible something is wrong, and either way scotch brite-ing the rotor will help for at least a time, but I think it more likely the combination of how you use the brakes, environmentals like clay dust, and just the materials BMW used is the cause.

To each their own, but I will not sand pads. The dust created is not much better for your lungs then asbestos.
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:50 PM   #417
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And a fine job you did of it....Joel. She'll nose wheelie with two fingers. You mean they don't all come like that...

Too bad for everyone else, I guess.

HF

p.s. I get gasoline on my hands....occassionally.....a little. Well, maybe sometimes a lot. Got in my eye once too. Ok, twice, just don't tell my wife, she thought it was just my allergies flaring up. But I digress, is that a no-no? I mean, not telling my wife...
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Old 08-22-2011, 04:18 PM   #418
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If I have to ever scuff a pad I wet it and rub it on concrete, been a while since I've needed to tho.

Remember all you have to do is knock the glaze off it.
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:23 AM   #419
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Great information, thanks guys!
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:59 PM   #420
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Rattle in my gas tank

Long Live STUPID QUESTIONS ! !

Suddenly, I've noticed a clanking rattle inside my gas tank.......on the right side, directly behind the gas cap.

Is this normal? Is this the fuel level sensor? Sounds like something has come loose and is floating on the fuel. Or, someone played a mean trick on me by dropping a baby rattle into my tank.

I was moving the bike around the garage, and noticed the noise when I gave the bike a lateral side-to-side wiggle. My tank is about 1/2 full of fuel.

Anyone else heard this noise or dealt with this issue....

HF
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