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Old 09-25-2011, 09:45 PM   #421
Ronin ADV
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I'll throw out another. I recently put a Scotts steering damper on my F8. I rode the WABDR and found it made a huge difference in rocks, gravel, and overall fatigue reduction. Where I am still stymied is deep sand / dust. I had ridden very little of this before and found the weight of the F8 a real handful in this stuff. I was unsure whether to turn the damper tighter or looser. Any thoughts? I would especially like to hear from anyone with a Scotts on their F8.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:25 PM   #422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Long Live STUPID QUESTIONS ! !

Suddenly, I've noticed a clanking rattle inside my gas tank.......on the right side, directly behind the gas cap.

Is this normal? Is this the fuel level sensor? Sounds like something has come loose and is floating on the fuel. Or, someone played a mean trick on me by dropping a baby rattle into my tank.

I was moving the bike around the garage, and noticed the noise when I gave the bike a lateral side-to-side wiggle. My tank is about 1/2 full of fuel.

Anyone else heard this noise or dealt with this issue....

HF
Yip. When I first got the bike I noticed it and asked the dealer. Fuel level sensor they said. Supposedly can't be avoided...however they were talking about turning it 90* to see if it was less noisy.

I can't actually remember if they did that but it is less noisy now...or I'm tuning it out.

Dave
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:49 PM   #423
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Highfive and Toowheels, I can help you here.
It's a tip-over float type thing (real technical, I know). It hangs down about 2 inches and is a little pendelum weight that dangles there and shuts off the fuel to the breather when the bike is tipped over. It is located right behind the gas cap and you can check it out by removing 4 screws. You'll also see a hose that runs to your canister, or you can yank it off and just put a little breather there in it's place.
I heard the same thing and decided to have a looksie.
There is also the vent line with a metal breather that is zip tied to the frame rail and if the zip-tie isn't snug, that metal breather will clink against the frame also.
I've discovered all kinds of shit on this bike with my 6-pack friend and some free time.
Finally I can use my superpowers for the good of GS kind!
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:57 PM   #424
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Thanks for the info....TW & FH. The noise is definitely inside the tank and it clanks (knocks) against the side wall just behind the gas cap area.

It can't be good for something to be hanging loose that bangs around constantly, especially with the rough trail riding I do. Hhhhmmmmm.....its going to break eventually. I don't like that it. Gonna have to figure out how to secure that thingy-ma-jig.

HF
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:59 PM   #425
mischief
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Have any of you guys gotten a headset replaced under warranty? I have 2500 miles and 1 month left on my warranty and I've been noticing a definite detent which makes the slow speed steering a little disconcerting. It's not loose at all so I'm thinking it was always just a little too tight. Any ideas?
Thanks
Christi
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:15 AM   #426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
I was denied warranty coverage for new head bearings that did the same thing and was told it was a wear item not covered.

The not so funny thing was up to the point when mine failed @ only 20,000 miles, only BMW certified techs had checked the head torque at regularly scheduled service intervals.
Now that I do it myself, and not as often as I should they've lasted 40,000 more miles..... go figure.
So yeah, they just told me the same thing. Did you put your new one in yourself? If so does it require any proprietary tools?
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:19 AM   #427
Hookapelli
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Originally Posted by Al Tuna View Post
You left out the stickers. Don't blow your stickers off.
Just curious... doesn't dirt add character?
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:55 PM   #428
itsatdm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
I paid like a sucker....

There's surely info around here about DIY, even some non-BMW replacement bearings I think, maybe someone who knows what thread can jump in.
The bearings are tapered roller type 28x52x16 available at BMW with seals for about $55 each or Wonderlich for $49 for both w/o seals or about $4.50 each at your local bearing supplier. Can't verify but the Napa # may be BR32.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:54 PM   #429
mischief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
The bearings are tapered roller type 28x52x16 available at BMW with seals for about $55 each or Wonderlich for $49 for both w/o seals or about $4.50 each at your local bearing supplier. Can't verify but the Napa # may be BR32. If you want original equipment http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/449744992-Quality-Industrial
-28X52X16-mm-metric-320-28-tapered-roller-bearing-wholesale-and-retail-wholesalers.html

Your link didn't work. Do you think the races would be available as well? and the seals? Like I said, this headset has a detent, it is not loose. The bearing prolly isn't bad at all. From the headsets I've dealt with, this is a result of being too tight and the bearing making small dents in the race, which, over time, got worse. I haven't taken this one apart but the fiche looks like it has replaceable outer races. If no one else has, I might have to take it apart and take all the parts to a bearing house to see if they can match it up
Also if anyone knows a link to a post where someone has had it apart or worked on it I would appreciate that, it's really nice not to fuxk things up taking them apart
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:46 PM   #430
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I don't know more than I listed, but with the size, I suspect you could find what you need at a bearing supplier. Those sizes are metric BTW. Forget the attachment it was a poor joke to a Chinese supplier.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:22 PM   #431
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If the link had worked I might have gotten the joke

Having little patience I took my hbars loose and checked the torque on the adjusting screw, it is way tight, way tighter than I think it should be. Does anyone know the torque value on it and the procedure for adjusting it? Maybe if I adjust it properly it will be ok for a while longer
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:08 PM   #432
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Hey guys, I have been reading your posts on the head bearings. This early failure is concerning... Just like the damn wheel bearings...

At any rate, has anyone seen this system from :

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mot...01302-324.html

Think this is the solution? Kinda pricy but hey, we own BMWs..!
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:09 PM   #433
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First I have never looked at the bearing or even the photo of one in the manual. But this is what ones looks like. http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...2028X-28x52x16 Comes with the race.
This appears to be a pretty common bearing even if most the internet supplyers are in Europe. The Chinese ones were about $7

To adjust the one you have, torque to 25NM. Swing the front wheel 3 complete arcs. Back off the nut 60 degrees and then retorque to 10nm.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:50 PM   #434
mischief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
First I have never looked at the bearing or even the photo of one in the manual. But this is what ones looks like. http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...2028X-28x52x16 Comes with the race.
This appears to be a pretty common bearing even if most the internet supplyers are in Europe. The Chinese ones were about $7

To adjust the one you have, torque to 25NM. Swing the front wheel 3 complete arcs. Back off the nut 60 degrees and then retorque to 10nm.
Thanks Gary
I don't have a manual but the parts fiche doesn't show a regular outer race like the one in your link, so when the dealer gets the one in that they ordered today I'll see what it looks like. In the mean time I loosened my adjusting screw which was way tighter than 10NM and did the sequence you outlined. The detent is still there but it is a lot less noticeable and the steering is much freer. My guess is that the ham that assembled my bike used an impact to adjust it in the first place and, to my knowledge, it had never been adjusted since. I had a 24,000 mile service done and it wasn't on the list. So my advice is, whatever your mileage, check the damn thing. Maybe you can avoid a new headset. A hundred and some for the parts and 2-3 hours labor so 250 or 300 bucks for a bmw techs screw up that isn't covered by warranty.
I guess I should be pissed but I've had a couple of beers and have good music in my shop so...
Christi


IMG_3324 by mischief64124, on Flickr
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:30 AM   #435
HighFive OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
First I have never looked at the bearing or even the photo of one in the manual. But this is what ones looks like. http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...2028X-28x52x16 Comes with the race.
This appears to be a pretty common bearing even if most the internet supplyers are in Europe. The Chinese ones were about $7

To adjust the one you have, torque to 25NM. Swing the front wheel 3 complete arcs. Back off the nut 60 degrees and then retorque to 10nm.

I've taken mine out, inspected, and regreased.....just because! Its something I do after buying every bike. All bearings get inspected and greased. They rarely seem to have adequate grease from the new factory install (any brand bike).

Really, this is no big deal. Its very easy to do on the F800....nothing to be scared of. DO follow the torquing procedure listed above. Seems to work perfectly, as I've had no issues since.

The stem bearings are indeed a very common-looking, tapered roller type. I prefer SKF bearings which I get from "Motion Industries". They have other good brands too. Their shops are everywhere in USA, but you can also order online. Seals too....no problem.

Just get a match for the numbers which are stamped onto the stock bearing and seal. If that doesn't work, simple measure OD, ID, & thickness (millimeters) with a digital caliper or micrometer. Or, just use the numbers itsatdm has listed above.

If you have a "notchy" feeling, you may need to replace your bearing race(s), as well. Feel them with your finger carefully to see if its smooth or bumpy. Good chance your bearing was/is dry and its just not turning well. Replacing the races is sometimes a little tricky, if you don't have the right tools. Many can be tapped out using a punch or screwdriver....catching the lip on the backside. But often, there is no notch or not enough lip to get ahold of. That's when it gets tricky. I don't recall the situation on the F800, I'd have to tear into it again to inspect.

I have a "race removing tool" that is very cool. I found it hanging on the rack at K&N Yamaha in Tulsa, one day. Can't recall what brand. I'll have to find a photo. Worth the purchase price if you only remove one race in your entire life. Similar to wheel bearing removal tools, in that its a life saver. It compresses and slides into the stem and spreads out to snag the lip of the bearing race. Couple taps with the hammer and voila! Piece of cake. Without this tool, it can be a nightmare (sometimes).

HF
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