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Old 09-27-2012, 10:40 AM   #976
BillACK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4TooMany View Post
No they don't... they teach you to use the engine cut-off switch. :)
Whats the difference between the engine cut-off switch and the kill switch?
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:52 AM   #977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillACK View Post
Whats the difference between the engine cut-off switch and the kill switch?
No difference. Just that the MSF doesn't call it a "kill" switch.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:47 PM   #978
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Just get in the habit of using the key. I usually put the kickstand town, remove my helmet and gloves.

If you have a direct wired GPS and forget, you could wake up on a frosty morning in a remote place with a dead battery.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:53 PM   #979
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Hey guys, I have a weird "gnashing" noise coming from the front end. It happens about 20 mph no matter what gear, accelerating or decelerating. The last time I had the front wheel off the bearings were fine and there isn't any side to side play, Nothing seems to be loose or binding and it only happens at or about 20 mph, has me stumped.
Also if one of you high fender guys would let loose of the stock fender, mine is cracked at one of the axle mounting points and I would be interested in buying your old one
Thx for any input
Christi
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:21 AM   #980
Hicks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4TooMany View Post
No difference. Just that the MSF doesn't call it a "kill" switch.
AFAIK there is.

Using the key should be more gentle to the engine and maybe other stuff.

---

also, the kill switch is too vulnerable construction for daily use I think. And -- as others mentioned -- you cant but just the switch itself.
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:53 PM   #981
4TooMany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hicks View Post
AFAIK there is.

Using the key should be more gentle to the engine and maybe other stuff.
My answer of "no difference" was between a "kill switch" and an "engine cut-off switch". They're just two ways of saying the same thing.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:50 PM   #982
CaliKarl
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Thanks for all your help for answering all my stupid questions. Now, I have one more for you. What is the cheapest, simplest way to get HID headlamps? Just switch the old bulbs with HID ones, or purchase one of the severly expensive kits from the likes of Adventure Designs? Thanks again.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:24 PM   #983
PatrickM
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Originally Posted by CaliKarl View Post
Thanks for all your help for answering all my stupid questions. Now, I have one more for you. What is the cheapest, simplest way to get HID headlamps? Just switch the old bulbs with HID ones, or purchase one of the severly expensive kits from the likes of Adventure Designs? Thanks again.
Kit. The kit is the bulb, igniter and ballast. You'll swap out the bulb with the HID one, plug in your existing wiring harness to the ignitor and then follow the wiring from the ballast back to the new HID bulb.

Something around $35 should do just dandy in your low beams. http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...rcycle-HID-Kit

You may not want to swap out your high beams because if you use them to flash, well HID's take a few seconds to warm up so defeats that purpose.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:44 AM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4TooMany View Post
My answer of "no difference" was between a "kill switch" and an "engine cut-off switch". They're just two ways of saying the same thing.
aha ok ;)
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:50 AM   #985
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Are there any fatbar options with different rise and pullback versus the stock bars which come with the same type of interior threaded bar ends as the OEM? I'd switch to Pro Taper Evo but I've become addicted to my Kako cruise lock which screws into those big OEM threads.

I've been looking at the bars on the 1200GSA and they look & feel a bit different than the F8 bars......might do the trick. Anybody tried that swap?

HF
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:09 AM   #986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
I've become addicted to my Kako cruise lock which screws into those big OEM threads.
My oem bars were bent in an off. Didn't want to buy the same but yes to throttle lock. Used helicoil inserts to recreate. I had a thread but Apple nuked all pics.

This should give you a good idea of how I kept it.

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Old 11-01-2012, 04:23 AM   #987
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Sweeeet idea! Love Helicoils and didn't even think of it. What size did it require? And just to be certain, are you also using the Kayko? You didn't say exactly.

HF.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:04 AM   #988
Sutherngintelmen
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Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Sweeeet idea! Love Helicoils and didn't even think of it. What size did it require? And just to be certain, are you also using the Kayko? You didn't say exactly.

HF.
Size was m12 x 1.75. I used longest in the kit, I think 28m. This fits the oem hand guard fastener. Expect a loose fit insert to bar (you could epoxy if you like) but snug when finished with hand guard fasteners.

My throttle lock is the Wunderlich fit with oem hand guards.
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All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:55 AM   #989
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Had my new to me '11 F800GS a few months now and got two stupid questions.

1. Why when my front wheel is in the air does the wheel flop to the right (I'm going from memory, but pretty sure it is right) every time. Its consistent to the same side every time and will do it even with the handlebars pushed all the way left initially. I think I read that maybe it was a tight brake line? I've tried finding the thread again but can't seem to remember where I saw this. Any concern here?

2. Also, I think I saw in one of the throtte threads a vague comment about the new 13's having a different map that helps with the throttle behavior. I think there was also a mention that older bikes could get the same type of flash to help? Any truth to this or should I just be looking at one of the throttle upgrades already discussed?

Thanks!!!!
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dirtysouthjacket screwed with this post 12-22-2012 at 06:30 AM
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:50 PM   #990
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You didn't say whether you had a 658 or a 800. Difference being one has a single disc and the other has twin discs. There isn't a standard as far as I know as to what side the bars will turn. On a single disc setup, the wheel will tend to fall to the caliper side as it's heavier. On a twin disc it will fall equally on either side. HOWEVER, the clutch cable and the brake line will tend to throw both bikes bars to the right. It's difficult to get a good feel for the steering bearing tightness on these bikes but as I've come to experience, if the wheel falls hard to the right and bounces back toward centre rather harshly then it's too loose. It will bounce a bit but less so on a 800. I took "her" 658 out for a ride and the steering felt too light so I adjusted it to spec and it felt much better. The front tire was also worn out which made it feel loose as well. If in doubt have someone check it.

I know nothing about the latest programming.............
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