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Old 04-04-2012, 10:08 AM   #2011
Tarheel Wheeler
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Joined: Oct 2003
Location: A53, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Lime View Post
I actually just did this, but have not run much through the bike yet.

Wouldn't the partially clogged injectors affect normal running also ?
FL, Check out some of the youtube stuff on applying voltage to injector and reverse washing.

Question for all you smart Bergers out there...Why run a DOT tire for DS instead of something like a the stocker Bridgestone? I've heard that there is essentially no difference in the tread wear, and that it really boils down to a manufacturer paying for a certain tire in it's line up to be DOT certified.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:44 PM   #2012
OhioPT
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Location: Columbiana County, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Lime View Post
I actually just did this, but have not run much through the bike yet.

Wouldn't the partially clogged injectors affect normal running also ?
No. My bike had basically the exact same symptoms as yours when I bought it 2 years ago. It had sat on the the showroom floor for a while and when I picked it up (late winter) it immediately had trouble starting. It would take about 6 or 7 cranks to finally start. If I shut the bike off for less than 30 seconds or so, it would immediately start back up without trouble. If it sat around for a minute or longer, then it would require multiple cranks again to start up. The bike ran great once started, all the time. It was under warranty and the dealer went through all the usually BS stuff: checked valve clearances, checked battery, ECU swapped for new one with competition map thanks to KTM USA, bla bla bla. I figured all along it was the injector but they didn't listen to me. Dealer finally swapped in a new injector, and voila, it's been fine since

When clogged, injectors can get stuck open or closed. In my experience, it's usually stuck open, which causes extra fuel to leak into the cylinder, essentially flooding the cylinder. That's why it takes multiple cranks to fire: it has to clear the extra fuel out so ignition can occur. It starts immediately after shutting the motor off because the injector doesn't have enough time to flood the cylinder.

The decompression apparatus on the cam has been known to cause problems in a few 'Bergs, but usually those will have trouble starting all the time, and the starting is usually easier when rolling the bike while in gear (gets to a certain point in the cam profile where the bike will start easier, or something like that). If it's valve clearance, it will consistently have trouble starting when hot, and usually start fine when cold. If it's the fuel pump, you would be able to hear that the pump is not running when you hit the start button (usually after overheating the pump), and it will only start after letting the bike site for a while to cool down.
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:21 PM   #2013
Florida Lime
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My starting problem sounds exactly as you described yours. Good info.
Thanks Mark.
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:31 PM   #2014
OhioPT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Lime View Post
My starting problem sounds exactly as you described yours. Good info.
Thanks Mark.

No problemo. Let us know when you get it sorted out.
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:32 PM   #2015
Lost Rider
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Location: Ventura County, California Republic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel Wheeler View Post
Ride Blue!


Thank you, makes some sense now. I just pictured needing a big jug of sta-bil....

On the list.

I just got back from the dealer, valves are in spec at 50 hours/1800 miles. intake was right in the middle, exhaust was at 15, still in spec.

Chain was severely stretched, causing the rubbing. Must have gotten the guys old chain or something. I'm just very happy I can still run the best tire for me and my local environment, a D606.




More HusaPorn, my GPS mount and adjustable headlight brackets. With this super bright non DOT HID light I needed to be able to dip it down when riding at night on pavement.









I love this bike!
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:16 AM   #2016
McLeod
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Did I read in here somewhere that the KTM LC4 rims would fit the husaberg?

If that is true then would the rear wheel off my KTM 640 standard fit?
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:19 AM   #2017
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Originally Posted by McLeod View Post
Did I read in here somewhere that the KTM LC4 rims would fit the husaberg?

If that is true then would the rear wheel off my KTM 640 standard fit?
Yep, they will. I've done it.
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:42 AM   #2018
McLeod
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Just flip it around and stick the Axle in?

I know what I am doing tonight when I get home! Cush Hub here I come!

Now I have no reason for the 450 not to be my main bike!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cross-country View Post
Yep, they will. I've done it.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:44 AM   #2019
B-Rod
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Location: Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Thank you, makes some sense now. I just pictured needing a big jug of sta-bil....

On the list.

I just got back from the dealer, valves are in spec at 50 hours/1800 miles. intake was right in the middle, exhaust was at 15, still in spec.

Chain was severely stretched, causing the rubbing. Must have gotten the guys old chain or something. I'm just very happy I can still run the best tire for me and my local environment, a D606.

That chain must have been properly shagged. When they are worn badly, they will flop around side to side, hitting the tire and flap like yours was. What most KTM owners suggest as far as proper chain tension, remove the shock, and run the swing arm through its arc and check the tension. This will me more accurate than the suggested way of checking tension. Once you have done this, you will now have a point of reference. Congrats on the new bike.
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:33 PM   #2020
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Just listed my 2010 570fe in the flea market if anyone is looking for a clean burg!
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:57 PM   #2021
mikecarpenter
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Competition map

I'm picking up a new FE570 tomorrow and when I asked the selling dealer about installing the competition map he said no problem, I charge $70 for that. After all my searching I can't find where anyone had to pay the dealer for the map. I have no qualms about paying for a service as long as every other dealer isn't doing it for no charge.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:42 PM   #2022
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I would weigh that cost against what it would cost to send to a dealer out-of-state to get flashed. I may have to do that (not all dealers will do it / know about it). If the dollars are close between the two options, might be a wash.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:44 AM   #2023
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I'm loving this machine. That being said, I had one hell of a bad luck night.

Turning a 180 in the woods, setting up for hill climb, give it and fall over. WTF!

I managed to wrap 5 feet of heavy wire around my right rear axle and swing arm. It tightened down and snapped the brake line. Got it unwound and decided to continue the ride. Was only about another hour of daylight anyway.

Hit a river crossing and found a big f'n hole with a boulder on the other side. Bounced off, went over. I hit the kill switch just before the tank went under. Got the bike upright about immediately. Friends helped me drag it on shore and we stood it up, no water out of the exhaust. I put it in 5th gear and rocked it a few times then thumbed the starter. There was hydro lock. I rocked it a few more times and finally she spit and started turning over. It eventually started and I rode the mile back out of the shit hole we were in. Guess it's broke in now.

So, the reason for this whole sordid story was to ask about flushing the motor. It's not my first drowning and I know what to do but is there something I should pay special attention to when I do flush it? I have a 2011 FE570.
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:15 AM   #2024
Wander4Days
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map switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecarpenter View Post
I'm picking up a new FE570 tomorrow and when I asked the selling dealer about installing the competition map he said no problem, I charge $70 for that. After all my searching I can't find where anyone had to pay the dealer for the map. I have no qualms about paying for a service as long as every other dealer isn't doing it for no charge.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this the same map that can be switched with an aftermarket map switch? if so, why not buy a switch for about the same price and have all 3 maps available on the fly?

here's Sicass's for $79 and Hsaberg's for $35
http://sicassracing.com/store/switch...mapping_switch
http://offroadboss.com/Berg_accessories.htm
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:18 AM   #2025
Indy Unlimited
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Location: Parker, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tslapper View Post
There was hydro lock. I rocked it a few more times and finally she spit and started turning over. It eventually started and I rode the mile back out of the shit hole we were in. Guess it's broke in now.

It's not my first drowning and I know what to do but is there something I should pay special attention to when I do flush it? I have a 2011 FE570.
The FE570 is not like other dirt bikes. if you put the airbox under water you get water in the piston and gear box.
Not hard to deal with.
First check oil level so you don't have too much water in it to blow your cases or bend your crank. Drain some if necessary. remember oil floats water is on the bottom.
Take the seat off and remove the filter. Make sure you get the water out of the vent to crank area and if needed stand the bike up with the throttle opened to let the water drain back out of the airbox and intake.
Next crank a few short pulses to help push the water out of the piston or put it in gear and try and roll it out.
The try and start it with brief periods with the throttle cracked slightly to help dry the plug.
Don't over crank. Do a few seconds once a minute and in a few minutes she should start up.
The squeeze the water out of the air filter and reinstall it and the seat after it has gotten running.

When you get back to base camp you need to do 4 oil and changes and one filter change. until the oil has not more milky look.

Don't ask why I know. Damn pesky beaver ponds forced me to cross up to the handlebars a few times.
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Indy Unlimited screwed with this post 04-06-2012 at 03:20 PM
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