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Old 01-03-2013, 10:21 AM   #3196
HighFive
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Finn.....check &/or replace your rear wheel bearings also. Worn or bad bearings can be a cause of lurching in the drive train.

HF
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:45 AM   #3197
Johnf3
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These have shown up on their website as out of stock for awhile now, but it might be worth a call to the vendor to see what is up

http://www.kushsprockets.com/sprockets

WAY cheaper than a true cush hub set up
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:23 PM   #3198
Cruz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnf3 View Post
These have shown up on their website as out of stock for awhile now, but it might be worth a call to the vendor to see what is up

http://www.kushsprockets.com/sprockets

WAY cheaper than a true cush hub set up
There are a few threads about these things, latest one here.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=852975
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:41 PM   #3199
Lost Rider
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Here's a little something my buddy RAZR posted to help ease the pain... there's a little Husaberg in there.



Quote:
Originally Posted by RAZR View Post
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:09 PM   #3200
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
There are a few threads about these things, latest one here.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=852975

Looks like unhappiness for the kushsprockets from that thread.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:10 PM   #3201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Here's a little something my buddy RAZR posted to help ease the pain... there's a little Husaberg in there.
Looks like fun trails Lost! Nice video.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:53 PM   #3202
ambre_OWNZ
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Sorry to hear about all the countershaft issues with hardened sprockets, but does anyone run the Zard exhaust for the 570's? I have a FS and want a new pipe... Any suggestions?
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:02 AM   #3203
pRICK
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My Safari tank fuel tap solution

Here's a few photo's of how I mounted a fuel tap for my Safari front tank -

Use a perfectly good tap from my 950 Gobi panniers and tap an 8mm thread where the filter fits, grind the mount tabs off so it will mount in any direction


Select an appropriate bolt and drill a 3mm hole through the middle


and screw it all together and when test mounted there is heaps of clearance for the electrical harness




I didn't get a mounting kit with the tank so next is to make up an adaptor for the filler neck and mounts.

I forgot to mention, to get clearance for the head of the tap, I heat the subframe very carefully and pushed an indent into the plastic- near where the harness clamp screw fixing is - large enough to not interfere with the tap. I wouldn't do this with a 70degree tank. In the second last photo I would drill the hole closer to the bottom of the recess to move the tap forward, so as to require a smaller indent in the subframe.

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pRICK screwed with this post 01-04-2013 at 04:04 PM
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:59 PM   #3204
mrt10x
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Well I called KTM-parts.com and cancelled my subframe tank and had them order me a Safari front tank... wanted to keep the original look of the bike, but I just got fed up with the delay... the good news is that this probably means the subframe tanks will be available within days for everyone else who is waiting
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:07 PM   #3205
BogeyMan
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My turn?

So, after Finn's disclosure of the condition of his countershaft & splines, and the desire to go for a ride this weekend, I took a look at my FE... and saw this:



(the white/blue "spooge" is thread-lock from the c/s bolt) and that's the c/s sprocket half off the splines.

so I took the c/s sprocket off and then wiped off the accumulated grime from the seals, and this is what's left:



So, oh wise ones of this group, what next?

Clean it up and keep an eye on it? Have I been running with a too-tight chain? Can I change the seals without splitting the case or removing the engine from the frame?

I take some comfort in that the splines of the c/s seem to be ok...
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:38 PM   #3206
Cruz
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Bogeyman, have a look here. Seal is easy to replace without pulling the motor apart.

http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewto...t+seal#p137234

http://www.dirttricks.com/washer.htm
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:38 PM   #3207
Navin
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Without torque on it the o ring seal doesn't work. Replace the bolt and run it. Keep an eye for more oil leaking and it'll probably stop.

On the chain, better loose than tight!
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:30 PM   #3208
Lost Rider
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Like others have said replacing the seal isn't that hard, but there's a good chance the leak is being caused by the KTM dome washer wearing out and not providing enough pressure on the o-ring on the spacer the counter shaft. I don't see how a bolt could wear out and cause the leak, when talking to the guys at dirt tricks ordering my washer they said I don't need to bother replacing it for whatever that's worth.
I've been battling with a leak that looks like yours for most of my miles. Always seemed to go away after replacing the dome washer and o-ring, but would come back soon from the miles I've been doing. Changing the seal itself never really helped. YRMV.
I wouldn't let a little leak like your stop me from riding over the weekend, but that's just me and I'm used to it leaking.

To stop having to constantly replace the soft KTM washer I bought one of these:

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Old 01-05-2013, 05:02 PM   #3209
Navin
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I think he lost the whole bolt, right?
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:56 PM   #3210
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Nope. Didn't lose anything... apart from my mind (but that went a long time ago)

I think the washer I have is the DT one - I'll compare later.
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