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Old 01-28-2013, 09:33 AM   #3361
thisflatearth
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2010 husaberg 390 blown topend

There is a 390fe for sale locally to me with a "blown" top end.

I sent the seller a message to find out what is wrong. But is there something that pops on these motors and what am I looking at to replace the whole head or possibly the top end (piston etc..)

Thanks

If anyone is also in the area feel free to buy it out from under me

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3573961411.html

UPDATE
And I quote "It is repairable it will be expensive if your not fixing it yourself. Top end blew. 2 of 4 valves are bad head blew. Piston is still good as is tranny"

So I will dig deeper ask him if he opened it or someone else did. Time to call the parts counter.

thisflatearth screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 09:40 AM
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:56 AM   #3362
Navin
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Get on ktmtalk and you can get close by filling the basket for a KTM 530, valves, head, etc. It ain't cheap, and I'd be replacing the piston, hone the cylinder at Millenium and probably the crank rebuilt too, just because. I did the parts for a crank/top end and everything I considered typical wear items on my 505. I hit $2400 at my discount of 25% and never touched the head at all. Bearings, seals, camchain, sliders, bearings, piston, cylinder matching, etc...

There isn't a typical head/valve problem in those engines.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:59 AM   #3363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnee Bill View Post
Decided I needed to put a battery tender on my 2011 FE 390 yesterday. I just clipped it to the battery terminals and when I plugged it in the FI light and fuel pump came on for a couple of seconds, then off, a few seconds later they cycled again. I disconnected the battery tender.
Is this to be expected? Am I going to have to disconnect the battery to hook up the battery tender?


.
I remember reading that some folks had to pull the fuel pump fuse in order to put in on the charger. Might want to dig into a little more. My 570 has an ignition key, and I do not have to do anything when putting it on the charger. Not sure if that is a difference.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:02 PM   #3364
hillwalker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnee Bill View Post
Decided I needed to put a battery tender on my 2011 FE 390 yesterday. I just clipped it to the battery terminals and when I plugged it in the FI light and fuel pump came on for a couple of seconds, then off, a few seconds later they cycled again. I disconnected the battery tender.
Is this to be expected? Am I going to have to disconnect the battery to hook up the battery tender?


.
My 390 does the same thing. I just pull the main fuse when I put it on the tender. No issues.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:16 PM   #3365
FamilyRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnee Bill View Post
Decided I needed to put a battery tender on my 2011 FE 390 yesterday. I just clipped it to the battery terminals and when I plugged it in the FI light and fuel pump came on for a couple of seconds, then off, a few seconds later they cycled again. I disconnected the battery tender.
Is this to be expected? Am I going to have to disconnect the battery to hook up the battery tender?


.
This is a known issue with some chargers. Some people pull the main fuse. I found it easier to pull the main wiring harness, which sits right above the fuse. (the fuse above the connector is a spare). Or do like I finally did - switch to a lithium battery. No need for a tender - and it shaved almost 4 lbs of weight off the top of the bike.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:27 PM   #3366
Shawnee Bill
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Thanks for the response, I went out and 'found' the main fuse, pulled it with no effect, bike still starts. Now I see here I probably pulled a spare fuse

So then I decided to read the manual, it says to disconnect the battery before connecting a battery tender. So I did that. Now I need to go back and find the real main fuse. Probably easier to pull that that disconnect the battery.


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Old 01-28-2013, 04:54 PM   #3367
FamilyRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnee Bill View Post
Thanks for the response, I went out and 'found' the main fuse, pulled it with no effect, bike still starts. Now I see here I probably pulled a spare fuse

So then I decided to read the manual, it says to disconnect the battery before connecting a battery tender. So I did that. Now I need to go back and find the real main fuse. Probably easier to pull that that disconnect the battery.


.
Disconnecting the battery is a pain. All you really need to do is disconnect the ECU so it isn't responding the charge voltages. Directly under the spare fuse is the main power connector that drives everything connected to the power relay. Just use a small screw driver to press in the latch and wiggle out the connector. Then remember to plug it back in after charging. Or if you prefer to pull the main fuse, it is directly below the connector. You can see both fuses and the connector in this photo, just left of center.

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Old 01-28-2013, 05:18 PM   #3368
BogeyMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyRider View Post
Disconnecting the battery is a pain. All you really need to do is disconnect the ECU so it isn't responding the charge voltages. Directly under the spare fuse is the main power connector that drives everything connected to the power relay. Just use a small screw driver to press in the latch and wiggle out the connector. Then remember to plug it back in after charging. Or if you prefer to pull the main fuse, it is directly below the connector. You can see both fuses and the connector in this photo, just left of center.

DANG! My bike hasn't looked that clean since it left the showroom.

I never even bother pulling a fuse when I hook up my battery tender/charger and I have never had a problem on any of my bikes, fuel injected or otherwise.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:28 PM   #3369
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I pull the white plug out of the starter solenoid.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:56 PM   #3370
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UPDATE
And I quote "It is repairable it will be expensive if your not fixing it yourself. Top end blew. 2 of 4 valves are bad head blew. Piston is still good as is tranny"

So I will dig deeper ask him if he opened it or someone else did. Time to call the parts counter.[/QUOTE]

I bet the intake rocker locked up on the shaft. This has been an issue on a few bikes.
Tell him you will give him 1500 and bet you can fix the top end for 1000 or less.
New rockers, shafts, valves, and machine work
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:12 PM   #3371
FamilyRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogeyMan View Post
DANG! My bike hasn't looked that clean since it left the showroom.

I never even bother pulling a fuse when I hook up my battery tender/charger and I have never had a problem on any of my bikes, fuel injected or otherwise.
That photo was taken before my bike got in the dirt. I bought it in November and tinkered with it all winter. Didn't get to ride it until spring. It will never be that clean again.

I have heard that some battery chargers don't trigger the ECU while others do.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:55 PM   #3372
Navin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberg View Post
UPDATE
And I quote "It is repairable it will be expensive if your not fixing it yourself. Top end blew. 2 of 4 valves are bad head blew. Piston is still good as is tranny"

So I will dig deeper ask him if he opened it or someone else did. Time to call the parts counter.
I bet the intake rocker locked up on the shaft. This has been an issue on a few bikes.
Tell him you will give him 1500 and bet you can fix the top end for 1000 or less.
New rockers, shafts, valves, and machine work[/QUOTE]


I hadn't even considered those, there have been a few. Good call.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:38 PM   #3373
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My rocker arm that seized was caused by case sealant and fuzz from a shop rag blocking the oil gallery it turns out, after they had the engine split for counter shaft replacement.
It let enough oil through so when watching it turning the engine over on a stand it flowed, but didn't provide enough lube when at high rpm's.

Happened twice before they found the cause, waiting still to get my bike back.



Did see some Bergs' out in DV last week though, rode with Scorpion too while I was rocking on the 250L.






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Old 01-30-2013, 04:48 PM   #3374
BogeyMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
My rocker arm that seized was caused by case sealant and fuzz from a shop rag blocking the oil gallery it turns out, after they had the engine split for counter shaft replacement.
It let enough oil through so when watching it turning the engine over on a stand it flowed, but didn't provide enough lube when at high rpm's.

Happened twice before they found the cause, waiting still to get my bike back.
I take it [hopefully] they they're picking up the tab on that one?

I think it's time I did the valves on mine... almost at 100hrs (as near as dammit). I just printed out the handy-dandy guide from husaberg.org.

On the plus side - after replacing the injector last week and the new c/s seal and the Rekluse adjustable slave cylinder - the bike ran like a charm on Sunday, with no hint of a leak. Even in fact kept on running when submerged almost up to the airbox. Not only that - when I stopped the engine, it restarted first time. Any other bike would have been sucking water
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:00 PM   #3375
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I take it [hopefully] they they're picking up the tab on that one?

I think it's time I did the valves on mine... almost at 100hrs (as near as dammit). I just printed out the handy-dandy guide from husaberg.org.

On the plus side - after replacing the injector last week and the new c/s seal and the Rekluse adjustable slave cylinder - the bike ran like a charm on Sunday, with no hint of a leak. Even in fact kept on running when submerged almost up to the airbox. Not only that - when I stopped the engine, it restarted first time. Any other bike would have been sucking water
yes they are taking care of it, along with some other stuff to help offset the costs of me driving 300 miles round trip 3 times because of the issue on top of being stranded road side twice. Shit happens, and I'm still glad I had the dealer I choose to do the work, I can only imagine how this could have turned into something ugly with a dealer who didn't stand behind their work or reputation and do whatever it takes to make things right.

My valves at 12,000 miles are still in spec from the first adjustment, wouldn't surprise me if yours are too. Good to check though for piece of mind.
I did need to replace my cam chain tensioner though as the OEM one had worn out and I had the typical KTM rattle sound. I installed a Dirt Tricks one and the rattling is gone.

Got some fresh rubber with a new Motoz Tractionator Enduro I/T mounted and can't wait to get back on The Mighty Husaberg.
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