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Old 12-27-2010, 06:43 PM   #31
Dr. Benny
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:14 AM   #32
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Took a cab to the airport-Copa Cargo.The girl there pointed me down the parking lot.Looking lost,an Avianca employee trys to help me.He walks with me,1/4 mile to Aduana.The man there says I need a paper like the blue one I have.But I need a pink one with a stamp on it.Back to Copa.With that hopeless look I seem to exhibit all the time,an airport girl trys to help me.She looks at the paper I have and walks me to the road.This is when I realize my bike was shipped on Cargo Pack,not Copa.She says it is about a mile away.She tells the cabbie where to take me.In the office there,I fill out papers,pay $35 and need to go back to customs.One of there employees rides me back on a 125 Honda.I fill out forms.Then the biker boy fills out some things for me-to speed things up.Then off to Cargo Pack to get the bike.

All work stopped while I was there.They wanted to know everything about me and my trip.Must not happen often here.The whole customs and immigration process was great.If only I knew who shipped my bike.Everyone in Columbia has been so helpful.

On the way out of Bogota I stopped to have my oil changed and air filter cleaned.They were busy.But within 2 minutes the mechanic had my oil filter out.On the sdewalk.You pay labor separate from shop parts.Labor was $5.2 liters of Motul oil-$19.WHAT? Should have asked first.Hope it is some super synthetic that lasts the rest of my trip.

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Later got gas and my big meal for the day.3 doughnuts and a Pepsi at Dunkin Donuts.

There are a lot of toll roads in Columbia.The nice thing about being on a bike is-for bikes there is a free lane on the right side.A lot of money would be spent for quotas if in a car or truck.Wonder what it cost for this truck?

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The last 2 hours into Armenia was great curvy,hilly,mountain area.I was tempted to stop before it got dark.But there was no place to stop.

I spent the night in a luv nest in Armenia.Couldn't wait to leave my room.Picture of a girl topless above the head board.And the mirrors on the ceiling.I watched myself all night.

Monday I had good riding into Popayan.But thew best was the last 100 miles into Pasto.Curves,up and down in the mountains,on the edge of cliffs,in the rain and fog.It was the most riding fun I've had so far.There was a 2 hour wait for crews to clean up some mud slides.Bikes do go to the front of the line though.

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I got to Pasto just before dark.It's a busy clean city.I like it here.I am going to Sanuario Las Lajas today.It's a cathedral built in a valley.Hope it looks as good as the pictures I've seen.It's 2 hours north of me.So I will return to this hotel again tonight.Before I checked in last night,I was told they had hot water and wifi.Just got wet in the shower and all the water went off.Then I tried to get online.2 minutes and it went dead.I couldn't understand the receptionist.He called a woman guest and her 10 year old daughter down.The 10 year old was taking English in school,and did a great job interpreting.We got the internet going-there mix up of wifi name and security codes.Then 15 minutes later I had water again.Just finished breakfast and talked to the girl and her dad.Will talk with them later tonight.The dad wants to see more pics and talk more about my trip.hat wonderful people I've met.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:29 PM   #33
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Today I went to Santuario Del Las Lajas.It's about 5 miles from the Ecuador border.I thought it was north of Pasto-some map I saw online.So I kept the room I had in Pasto for 2 days.If I had known,I would have been in Ecuador tonight.On my return from Las Lajas I couldn't find my hotel.Didn't mark it on the GPS and didn't know what road it was on.Eventually 2 uniformed guys on a motorcycle lead me to my hotel .The help I've gotten from the Colombian people has been unbelievable.

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Old 12-30-2010, 10:08 AM   #34
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Losing ride report work when the computer crashes sucks. I would post and submit, then, in multiple windows, edit the posts every few minutes. Or type it up on word or something. Ask Ken.
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Old 12-31-2010, 10:29 AM   #35
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The next morning I did write up om text document.Again on my very last sentence,I somehow managed to delete it again.Luckily there is the edit undo option there.But there was a moment of panic .
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:17 AM   #36
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I left Columbia yesterday morning and arrived at the Ecuador border about noon.I think it's called Rumichaca or the Ipiales crossing.No helpers pestering me.A few money changers to cash out $4 for me.It took about an hour.

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Just before getting to Qutio,I looked at my GPS to check altitude.And I noticed I had pasted the equator.So I turned around and back tracked about 5 miles to take a few pictures.Have to have pictures of this holy land.

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On the way into the city II saw a lot of small fires.They were life size dummies of men on piles of paper and wood.Usually there were 10-15 people gathered around.Many looked like they were in front of there work places.Hope to find out what that's all about.

In Quito I was trying to find a hostel that my friend Merrill stayed in 6 years ago.I found it-no vacancy.But the Hostel Arupo,across the street had room.I booked 2 nights.Didn't want to be looking for a room new years eve.


I[/IMG] went out that evening to see where I was and what food was available.This place was starting to party early.I wonder what it will be like tomorrow night.




I need to change my rear brake pads.Latin American riding is hard on brakes.6000 miles on this set.When I installed these,I cleaned and lubricated the calipers and slide pins.I read they were bad for wearing on one side.And they are not reversible.You can't save the 1/2 worn pad for the other side later.I brought 2 rear set and 1 front set.Hope they last that long.Seems like some enterprising person would sell individual sides for the pads.

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Old 01-04-2011, 10:39 PM   #37
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Well I changed my rear brake pads.And they were worn out.For new years eve I thought I would eat a good meal.I went to a steak house and had a great big not so tasty steak.And my stomach said let's go home instead of going out for the big party.So that's what we did.Midnight and I'm in bed.Oh well.

The next morning I had some sunshine.But it didn't last very long.Long enough to take a few pictures.

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Unless you have ridden Latin America you can't imagine how often you see this stuff in the roadway.It is as constant as tax bills.

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I'm riding into higher mountains.I was at 9000 to 14,500 feet most of the day.

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And the temperature was from 44-58 degrees most of the time.And I don't think it was fog.I think I was just in the clouds most of the day.And of course it was raining.But I still like the riding in Ecuador.

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I stayed in Azugues that night The next day I cross the border to Peru at Macara.I'm out of Ecuador in 10 minutes and in Peru in 30 minutes.This is a great crossing point.Every one was friendly and helpful.And I didn't cost a penny.As I walked out of Peru customs,I saw a boy ride a scooter into the back of a parked car.Sounded terrible.But he got up and rode off a few minutes later.

I ride down the road about 10 miles and have seen hundreds of goats in the road.Makes you a little nervous.

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Then I see a guy standing behind his car looking at something.It's a goat he just hit and killed.There ought to be a law.

I got a room-well it was a luv nest-in Sullana.Because I was too tired to ride further into the night.I wouldn't even take a shower in this place.

The next morning I need to get Peru money-soles.My debit card won't work.So I go into a bank with a credit card.An hour and 20 minute line.I get to the counter and the girl says they don't deal with Master Card.Luckily,an employee takes me to the managers office.The manager tells the guy to take me to another bank.The guy hails a mototaxi and we go to the other bank.They don't accept Master Card either.But we go outside to their ATM and try my debit card.On the 3rd attempt,I get money.So back to the 1st bank we go.I took a picture of the employee that helped me.

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A half hour down the road 2 cops wave me to stop.They want to see the insurance paper I don't have.They didn't sell it at the border,and then I forgot about it.They said the fine was 432 soles.But I could give them $200 US and be on my way.I tried to act like I knew less Spanish than I do.It probably just made a 15 minute stop last an hour.I got my Spanish book out and finally said write me a ticket.He did 10 minutes later.And had me sign it.Then he started the $200 thing again.I told him I would pay the infraction at the police station-not here.10 minutes later he gave me my license,passport,and title back and said "go".

I stayed in another love motel in Chao for $8.And I'm eating street food.Some kind of meat on sticks.Right next to the fried chicken feet.

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Then I go to an internet cafe.I've had bad luck getting on line for several days.When I'm done I go out side to listen to a free concert.14 guys singing and dancing on a stage.They are really good.I stay for an hour and a half.But at 11pm,it's time for bed.

At 7am I'm on the road.And today I will get insurance.Because I read that the worst cops are around Lima.I asked a roadside cop where I could buy insurance.He said 1/2 hour down the road in Chimbote.When I get there,I ask another cop.He told me to get in the car and he would take me there.5 minutes later,I am paying $20 for 30 days insurance.I guess all cops in Peru aren't bad.

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Then he took me back to my bike.
1/2 hour down the road a bike behind me is beeping his horn at me.I stop.He is from Brasil and is traveling on a 750 Honda.Where he is going seems to hit the places I want to see.So I will ride with him for a while.

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We leave the coast line and head up th mountains.Into the clouds and cold.

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We got rooms in Haurez.And I finally get internet where I can Skype home and update ADVrider.

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Old 01-05-2011, 05:43 AM   #38
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Well done with the cops.

I don't remember ever having an insurance card unless I paid for it at a border and didn't realize it. I certainly never went out of my way for one. Except for buying some regular insurance on-line before entering Mexico, I think I must have been uninsured from Guatemala to Argentina! Oops!
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:20 AM   #39
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Lot of people paying fines in Peru for no insurance. I couldn't find anyone who'd sell for less than a year, so I didn't bother...but I took a few evasive actions near Trujillo where the famous roadblock is. I'm surprised you found a monthlong policy--must be a change in national policy (or fake).

Costa Rica certainly sold you insurance, Mr. Banana (or is it Mr. Man?). Colombia is cracking down these days--at some points of entry (often including the airports) you need to buy before they'll let you in. So is Argentina, where riders have been getting stuck at borders without insurance.

Keep the photos coming!

Mark
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:16 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markharf View Post
Lot of people paying fines in Peru for no insurance. I couldn't find anyone who'd sell for less than a year, so I didn't bother...but I took a few evasive actions near Trujillo where the famous roadblock is. I'm surprised you found a monthlong policy--must be a change in national policy (or fake).

Costa Rica certainly sold you insurance, Mr. Banana (or is it Mr. Man?). Colombia is cracking down these days--at some points of entry (often including the airports) you need to buy before they'll let you in. So is Argentina, where riders have been getting stuck at borders without insurance.

Keep the photos coming!

Mark
It's entirely possible that I bought insurance and just wasn't paying attention. I'm not advocating that anyone try to break the law. Seriously. And FWIW, I had purchased three levels of global liability insurance before I left the US. One was through my auto policy, with a global amendment, and another was through my homeowners, with a global umbrella, and the last was a solid policy through TravelGuard. My motorcycle was not insured, but anything I or it did would be insured, if that makes any sense? PS: I promoted myself to Sir Bananaman.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:31 AM   #41
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I have had internet troubles.They say they have it.Then they turn it off at 9pm.Or they don´t have a signal strong enough to wifi.So I update my netbook and upload when I can.I will upload pics soon.
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We left Hauraz and rode an hour to Cordillo Blanco.

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Then we back tracked and headed to Lima.I was going to bypass Lima because of all the posts I read about the bad cops.Well,we had 2 shakedowns going into Lima.They eventually hand your papers back to you and say go.Joelmir pretended to know only English to frustate them.I guess it works.

We got a hostel 25 miles north of Lima in Anocn.We had roof top rooms over looking the ocean and beach.We left early for Lima.When we got to Lima we went to the Catacomes at San Fransico.Joelmir said there were 25,000 people buried there.Pretty small compared to the ones in Paris and Rome.No pictures allowed.But Joelmir managed to snap some off.

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Later we meet a friend of a friend of Joelmir's.Luis and a girl picked us up in an SUV.We rode around town with them while they were doing some kind of work for the University.Later we got a hostel.After eating,we went to a plaza near the San Fransico Museum.We met a group of riders from the MotoAventurePeru.

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It was one of the best nights I've had on my trip.The beer was flowing.The police came to say hi and shake hands.As it got later,we took our bikes back to the hostel.The bikers followed us back.We parked our bikes and caught a bus to some bar.MotoAventurePeru met us there.And the beer thing started again.I hope I didn't embarrass myself.It was 11:45 when I got up.Joelmir said he signed us up for another day.He didn't think I was going anywhere.After we went out for lunch,I was back on my bed.

Later in the evening I went to move my bike into the garage.It's around the corner,then around another corner.Well I missed the open garage door .Since it's a one way street I thought I'd go around the block and try it again.I got 3 blocks before I can turn left.When I turn left,the road runs on a different angle.And all the one way streets.Okay,I go around the block and get lost.By the time I ask 2 motorcycle cops where my hotel is,I'm probably 1/2 mile away.We go up and down streets with lights flashing and me between them.Finally I see home plate.They smile and shake hands with me 5 times before leaving.Joelmir still isn't home from the internet cafe.So no embaressment.YET.A little later,I decide to go get something to eat.I'll be safe and walk.Hotel guy says turn this corner,go 2 blocks,and down that street a ways.I had a good dinner.And yes I did get lost on the way back.I'm not far from the hostel.I ask a taxi driver.He says keep going the way I am,and it's on this street.1/4 mile later I am having my doubts.It's okay.I'll ask the motorcycle cops at the corner.They know exactly where I live.It's the same cops.This time I ride on the back of the cop motorcycle with lights flashing.Back at the hostel I'm not so lucky.Joelmir is at the front door and ready to take my picture.I promised the cop I would not go out again that night.

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Today Joelmir and I went different ways after seeing some ruins at Huaca La Centinela.We are both going to Cusco.But I went farther south to see the Nazca Lines.We will probably meet there in a few days.I hope we do.I loaned him my cold weather gloves since he lost one of his.10 minutes after we split,an '09 Harley pulls up next to me and signals me to stop.It's Odevias from Oxaca,Mexico.He's going to TDF also and wants to know if I want to ride with him.He will do his sight seeing on the way back.Sorry,I'm going to Cusco then Santiago to spend time with my wife.May see him on the return ride.We rode together a few hours and saw some of the Nazca Lines from a tower.He followed the Pan American at Nazca.

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I stopped and got a room after reserving a flight to see the lines in the morning.Today was hot.And I'm ready for a shower and some food.It got up to 96.It was very windy in the miles and miles of desert sand.

Sunday morning 1-9-11.I went to the airport for my flight seeing of the Nazca Lines.It was not what I hoped it would be.It was a little windy.But the pilot did not help things either.Of the 4 passengers,one was filling his barf bag,and I was wondering when I should reach for mine.After about 3/4 of the flight I was just looking at the back of a seat to hold on to my breakfast.
I snapped some pictures.But I had little time and bad angles.

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About 9:30 I'm on the road to Cusco.My head and stomach are still spinning from the flight.And this is a very twisty road I'm on.It is a great road.I rode up to near 15,000 feet in rain and hail.Even through riding pants and overpants,that hail did some serious stinging.I had a real close call today.I saw a guy taking a picture of something.After passing him,I glanced back.When I looked forward again,there was a great big furry thing right in front of me.I think they call them palama's?I thought he was going to at least graze my front wheel.But he was fast.I wonder if the guy got that picture.I didn't get to Cusco.Another 80 miles for next morning.

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Old 01-11-2011, 05:21 AM   #42
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It's awful tough to ride Nasca/Cusco if you don't leave till after 9!
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Old 01-12-2011, 08:58 AM   #43
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I'm at internet cafe waiting for more landslides to be cleared.I will update and try to add pics tonight.

I left Carahuassi and planned to go to Cusco.While riding I thought it would be better to go to Machu Picchu first.I wanted to get to Santa Teresa for the night.

Had some curvy roads today.

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I had a 4 hour delay for landslide repairs about 2pm.While waiting,I decided to do some bike maintenance.I tighten my chain for the first time.And I finally set my shock to the highest setting.Back in line again,I talked with a couple bicyclist from Germany.One started from Buenes Aires 2 1/2 months ago.Then 2 young guys rode up on 250cc Yamaha's.They were from Australia.The had just rented these bikes for the ride to Machu Picchu.

At 6pm the road opened and everyone was rushing to see if they could get to a room before dark.I didn't make it.I got to Santa Maria as it got dark.35 miles more to Santa Teresa.But the road turned to dirt.And it was raining.And there were switchbacks up the mountain and along ledges that I probably wouldn't want to look down in the day light.There were rocks and boulders on the trail (can't really call it a road).There was a water crossing that made me nervous.I walked through it before riding it.When you're alone with nobody around,way up on a dark mountain in the rain,and no light in sight,it's okay to be a little cautious.

UPDATE ON THAT 35 MILE SCARY RIDE.iT WOULD HAVE BEEN 15 MILES AND NOT TOO BAD IF I HAD TAKEN THE RIGHT ROAD.REALIZED THE MISTAKE WHEN i LEFT FOR CUSCO.

I finally get to Santa Teresa and stay at the Las Inkas Hostel.2 nights at $7/night and had some laundry done for $2.I'm happy now.

In the morning I get a taxi to the hydro plant.A half mile walk and I get to the train depot.Interesting walk from the hydro plant to the train depot.

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It was blind luck for me there.A half hour later I was rolling to Agua caliente.I think it was the last train of the day going either direction.I had breakfast in Agua Caliente.Then I bought an entry ticket for Machu Picchu.That ticket is $64 USD.If you use peruvian soles it's S 128.Or about $43.Stick it to the Americans.If you want,you can take a bus up to Machu Picchu.I walked down the river about a mile to the begining of the steep hike up the mountain.An hour and a half later I'm drenching wet at Machu Picchu.And I'm exhausted.But this place is awesome.I took about 100 pictures.

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At 3:30 it was time to go.I had to hike down to the river.Then it was a 9 mile hike back to the hydro plant.And hope there is a taxi for the 1/2 hour ride back to Santa Teresa.I most have pasted 150 people hiking to Agua Caliente.I talked to the Australian bikers.They said they couldn't believe I rode the road to Santa Teresa at night.They had trouble in daylight.Then a saw the German bicyclists.I guess I'm a day or 2 ahead of them now.It's Wednesday morning and time to load the bike back up.Can't wait to see if we can get the bike out of the hostel hall.Had to strip it down to get it in.Wood ramps down tall curbs.

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Old 01-14-2011, 04:24 AM   #44
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The road out of Santa Teresa wasn't as bad as the wrong road I came in on.Gut it wasn't smooth pavement either.I think half the people living around here must work as road repair personnel.

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I stayed in the San Blas area of Cusco.It is the old,touristy part of town.It would be nice to spend more time here.Has a lot of old buildings.

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When I left Cusco I planned to get to Lake Titicaca.I met 5 riders from Brasil in a gas station that were going the same way.They invited me to ride with them.We stayed in a hotel in Puno on the edge of Lake Titicaca.From here I don't know if we will all ride together to La Paz.Some want to take a ferry across the lake to Bolivia.Others want to ride around.I am in the latter group.

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Old 01-14-2011, 09:09 AM   #45
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What a great ride! Keep it up!
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