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Old 09-13-2011, 04:00 PM   #91
Uller
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Fuel Pump Source

Bob- The links are below. I got mine straight from CA Cycleworks.

http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/fuel-pu...arna-4-strokes

or

http://www.ktm-parts.com/FP-HUS.html
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:18 PM   #92
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thanks
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:22 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
I appreciate the offer. If possible, I would really like to use the 30mm unit due to the configuration of our pump in the fuel tank. It is a bit different than yours and I don't see an easy way on using the 38mm unit like you have done with yours.

See this post for pics. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=19085

Our pump fits inside the housing and then a cap goes over the top to hold it in. There would have to be a lot of custom work done to get the 38mm unit into the housing and to stay there while beating the snot out of the bike in rough terrain
Hey Uller, I was responding to someone on the AUS 690 thread about fuel filter issues and he mentioned that Swampy had preserved your fuel-filter post to the mega thread which is now gone. Here is the copy: http://forum.dixiedualsport.com/post...6&postcount=50

If you were to edit the original post to this thread, you could bring that good post to the old mega thread back to life.

Here's the link to my response to the AUS 690 thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=2532

Jack
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:28 AM   #94
Evil Invader
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Question Austin Jake or someone else...

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJake View Post
Stock Husky fuel pump assembly


Stock 30mm fuel pump replaced with an oversized 38mm fuel pump, $30 a foot submersible fuel line used, $5 auto fuel filter used.

Anyone knows what flow rate/pressure specs is for this Husky assembly?
Would it work with the 690 efi system?
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:23 AM   #95
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I believe that he stated that the pump shown was a larger 38mm (????) ducati pump he had used until the smaller, correct sized pump came out from CA Cycleworks. You can find pics of it earlier in this thread.

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Old 10-15-2011, 11:26 AM   #96
Uller
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Jack - You Rock! Thanks for saving me a lot of work.

****I have now changed my exact setup due to trial and error and things I have read from others. See Below as I am going to leave the basic procedure alone****

Just want to say this is the first “How To” that I have put together so, bare with me please (ask some questions if it isn’t straight forward….). Also, I am by no means a trained mechanic. I am just one that isn’t too hesitant to take something apart and put it back together; a little better, if it needs it. So, Please be nice if I didn’t do something correctly. Mine is all back together and seems to run just fine since I performed the procedure.

Anyhow, I was going through the bike and got to the fuel filter replacement. Once I got in there and took off the stock clamps I couldn’t: a) find new clamps the correct size, b) find clamps which didn’t require a special tool which I also won’t have with me if I were out riding…

Secondly, I had read of fuel line kinking (I think the trick though is to curl the hose as it is inserted into the tank which essentially coils it up instead of allowing it to kink.) and I didn’t want to deal with this issue myself.
So, I sent Bobzilla a PM and asked for a little advice and this is what I came up with.

All part are available from Napa Auto and were available right then and there except the hose. (I had to special order the hose from another store but it was there the next day. If I wanted to drive 30 miles I could have had it right away).

Parts:
(4) 11mm to 13mm hose clamps (the 13mm to 15mm are a little easier to get on)
(2) 13 to 15 mm hose clamps (used for larger line connecting to regulator & intake assembly)
(1) 3011 Napa Fuel Filter
(1) Package of H209 5/16” x 1’ Submersible Fuel Line Hose


Procedure:
Take off the seat, plastic, air intake (don’t forget the sensor on the bottom), fuel line, lower tank bolt and then tip up the rear subframe/tank for access. I had the shock out too. This probably made access easier.

Take out the Four screws holding the fuel pump housing in and drain the tank. I found a five gallon bucket sat on the swingarm and caught all the gas. Just let the pump sit there and don’t remove all the way. Go to the backside of the tank and remove the four screws holding the regulator assembly.

Now, here is the hard part for those faint of heart. Pull out the pump and disconnect the electrical line and just cut the fuel hose. Pull out the regulator and pump and set on the bench.


I then carefully cleaned around both openings of the tank to get them ready for the reinstallation.

See the following pictures.

Here are all of the components laid out.


Ready to install



Underside of tank. That is the opening for the regulator.



Notice length of trimmed hoses. I trimmed the line back to the pump but left the little ribs on there for better attachment of the hose. I also left about 5" of the return line attached to the regulator.



The whole assembly as it will connect. I used a 3" piece of hose between the pump and filter and the rest of the 1' length between the filter and regulator. You will also notice that I don't have the crappy wire filter on the bottom of my pump. I got a Profill Australia Filter from Renazco Racing. Call them as its not on their website.



I used the natural curve of the hose and oriented it so that it pointed toward the direction of the pump




I started using this for all of the fasteners into the tank





Regulator and hose routed into tank




Per Bobzilla's recommendation I wired the pump housing together. There isn't much room on the side of the housing and the opening into the tank so, turn the wire in toward the center of the pump.



Pump and Filter ready to connect to hose from regulator



Here is the assembly connected ready to go into the tank.



At first I tried to put the pump straight into the tank and I would get about half of the housing in and it wouldn't want to go any further. This is when I remembered the twist in the stock hose and I turned it 180 degrees toward the regulator. This was also in the natural twist of the hose. The pump slid in like it was made to be in its assembled location and not out of the tank.

I turned the bike on and allowed the pump to cycle a couple times prior to starting. Then I disconnected the fuel hose quick disconnect and let the air pressure escape and get the fuel to the injector. It fired up like it hadn't sat for a minute. All in all, I am pretty stoked to have this worked out as well as it did. All the parts are available over the counter from Napa now we just need to find a pump from them too and we will be all set.......

Update:

My aftermarket, proactive approach to keeping the pump operating properly consists of a Profill Australia Filter Sock in the opening of the fuel tank. Attached to the pump is another Profill Australia bag w/ the foam filler to hold the volume. (Both to my knowledge can be purchased from Renazco Racing, give them a call. -OR- If you get the CA Cycleworks pump it comes with a very similar design of filter sock. Warning though. Mine was too tight of a fit to get on the pump and if I used it I would have had to carefully enlarged the opening of the filter) I have removed the filter from the tank entirely. I have drilled many additional holes in the pump holder to aid in fuel transfer and cooling. I had an extra length of submersible hose so I connected it to the return line that now goes to the pickup cup. I am running the CA Cycleworks fuel pump (have stock for spare). I then have the Can-Am fuel filter installed in place of the quick disconnect.

Napa Part # to use in place of the Can-Am Filter (Part #:709-000-100) :

napa 3095 steel body, 10 micron , 60 psi rated, (Bobzilla)
or
napa 3095 is identical to wix 33095 if that helps you at all. (The Letter J)

Pic of 3" hose connected to remaining 5" of return line


Pic of Profill Filter Bag on pump


Holes drilled in pump "cup" to aid in fuel transfer and cooling at low fuel levels. I cleaned up and deburred the holes later....


Stock vs. CA Cycleworks Pumps

Uller screwed with this post 07-12-2012 at 10:10 PM
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:31 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
(Both to my knowledge can be purchased from Renazco Racing,
I only have 4 left, once they're gone we won't be ordering anymore unfortunately.









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Old 10-15-2011, 04:46 PM   #98
Uller
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Originally Posted by Renazco View Post
I only have 4 left, once they're gone we won't be ordering anymore unfortunately.


.
Before I found out about you having them I had tried to contact Profill Australia directly and didn't get any response/have any luck. Have they gone out of business?

Also, I now have a Safari tank up front. Would you happen to have a Profill sock which goes into its 2" dia. filler neck? It would be nice to have one up there too. (I meant to call you, and think I still will as I'm having ideas about the perfect seat )
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Old 10-15-2011, 05:24 PM   #99
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Uller, thanks for adding your how-to to this thread. My 690 will be tested in a 400+ two day ride in a couple of weeks if it makes it through that, then maybe I will feel like I can trust it again.
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:58 PM   #100
Uller
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No problem. Big thanks to you for finding it.

Since my running issues, I've now put on about 1800 miles on three seperate trips with no issue (fingers crossed still..... ).

Enjoy your trip!!!!!
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:25 AM   #101
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Quote:
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Before I found out about you having them I had tried to contact Profill Australia directly and didn't get any response/have any luck. Have they gone out of business?
I just bought my Profill filter from Profill last week so they are definately still going, Scott Midson is the guy and he was very interested in your mods which I am doing on mine.

Andy
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:27 AM   #102
Evil Invader
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Uller:
Great writeup!! Really nice!

As for my question, i´m interested in what the Regulator puts out, not the pump. The whole Husky assembly looks so neat compared to stock, and really fits nicelly in my plans....
So, is it enough psi in the husky assembly to work with the oem ktm efi?
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:51 AM   #103
Renazco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Before I found out about you having them I had tried to contact Profill Australia directly and didn't get any response/have any luck. Have they gone out of business?

Also, I now have a Safari tank up front. Would you happen to have a Profill sock which goes into its 2" dia. filler neck? It would be nice to have one up there too. (I meant to call you, and think I still will as I'm having ideas about the perfect seat )
Profill is still in business, they don't make the Acerbis size filter sock anymore unfortunately. I may have one that will fit the safari tank, send me an e-mail with the exact ID measurement in mm and I'll see if it will work for you.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:38 PM   #104
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Invader View Post
Uller:
Great writeup!! Really nice!

As for my question, i´m interested in what the Regulator puts out, not the pump. The whole Husky assembly looks so neat compared to stock, and really fits nicelly in my plans....
So, is it enough psi in the husky assembly to work with the oem ktm efi?
Not sure about the regulator... Stock pump spec is 3.3 - 3.7 BAR (48 - 54 PSI). I believe that the CA Cycleworks Husky pump is 5 PSI lower.

I speak about the possible issues here: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=241

and earlier in this thread the pressure issue was also discussed. Look back to the first couple of pages.
I've got about 1800 miles with it in my bike. Seems to work just fine......

Uller screwed with this post 10-17-2011 at 10:47 AM
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Old 10-17-2011, 01:59 AM   #105
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Uller,
When securing the elect cable inside the tank to the hose did you use specific zip ties that were fuel proof ??
I want to zip tie both hoses and elect cable together so they support each other just worried about zip ties being degraded by fuel.
Andy
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