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Old 12-06-2010, 05:02 PM   #16
danedg
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...maybe we otta chug on over to Namby Pamby Land, and try to find you some self CONFIDENCE...and a real piece of PIPE!!!!!!


The tire iron is for CARS!!!!!
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:11 PM   #17
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I love that commercial. One of the funniest things I ever seen ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhlWddAXSRA
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:17 PM   #18
crazydrummerdude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
when you grind the socket down it'll get cherry red...dunk it in water real quick and it'll retemper {harden} the alloy..
Ya know, I've read a lot about the advantages of using oil instead of water; introducing carbon into the steel, yadayada, but I've never done it.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:21 PM   #19
bgoodsoil
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I think Greta will get G/Sified. Thoughts?
trade it for a dr650? Nobody should put themselves through the torture of owning TWO airheads

I don't know anything about lifting the back end of a twin shock. I don't know of any builds that'd help either. It'd be a trial and error process trying to get shocks.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:45 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by bgoodsoil View Post
trade it for a dr650? Nobody should put themselves through the torture of owning TWO airheads
I'm a glutton for punishment.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil View Post
I don't know anything about lifting the back end of a twin shock. I don't know of any builds that'd help either. It'd be a trial and error process trying to get shocks.
I really wouldn't do much lifting and such ... I think I'd really just upgrade the forks and rear shocks ... and change the final drive to a 37:11. That would gear me down a bit. I'm not looking to to go big ... just wanna cruise the trails and such.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:50 PM   #21
danedg
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...but first, we have to figure out a way to get yer nuts off
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:52 PM   #22
fishkens
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Nice work, Beather. We knew you could do it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
when you grind the socket down it'll get cherry red...dunk it in water real quick and it'll retemper {harden} the alloy...
Alloy? They make big ass 36 mm sockets out of aluminium? I never knew.








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Old 12-06-2010, 06:54 PM   #23
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...but first, we have to figure out a way to get yer nuts off

I'm not going to respond to that.

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Old 12-06-2010, 07:44 PM   #24
CurlyMike
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Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
Nice work, Beather. We knew you could do it!



Alloy? They make big ass 36 mm sockets out of aluminium? I never knew.








Oh man, dont get Flatulator started again...
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:46 PM   #25
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...but first, we have to figure out a way to get yer nuts off
With a name like Beater, I'd a thought he got it figured out.
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:03 PM   #26
bgoodsoil
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:17 PM   #27
kbasa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
you can put a torch on it, might blister the paint...heat gun works pretty good

when you grind the socket down it'll get cherry red...dunk it in water real quick and it'll retemper {harden} the alloy...
next time you'll put neverseize on the bastard.....you won't have this problem
+1. Apply heat to the nut. Then, put the socket on the nut and give it a good whack with a hammer. Apply an impact driver to it until loose. Repeat Kroil, heat and impact driver cycle until you're done.
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:19 PM   #28
kbasa
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Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
Nice work, Beather. We knew you could do it!



Alloy? They make big ass 36 mm sockets out of aluminium? I never knew.








Alloys are a blend of two metals, neither one of which has to be aluminum.

Steel is an alloy.
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:23 PM   #29
P B G
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I have a flat spanner that works great for it. I believe it comes from a Porsche 356 tool kit to do the generator belt nut.

Either way its fully flat, and the handle has a hole for a 1/2" breaker bar.

They're like 20 bucks.



Oh and big bonus, no offset.

By this I mean if you use a 36mm socket, you have 1-2" from the bolt to where the leverage is applied, that offset makes wrestling everything into place then applying the high torque required quite difficult.

With a tool like this the torque is on plane w/ the nut, so it doesn't twist or roll around.
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:28 PM   #30
wirewrkr
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Originally Posted by MacRunch View Post
Pick up a heavy piece of pipe at least 3 ft long. Place it over your breaker bar and just wrench away. It's all about leverage. I believe I read one time that Matt Parkhill uses an old airhead fork slider tube to extend the breaker bar.
A fork tube, not a slider.
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