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Old 11-06-2013, 04:13 PM   #2176
jdrocks OP
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motor mount bolts in place. the 4 front bracket bolts get red, the 2 main motor mount bolts get blue even though they use a captured lock nut.

REPEAT: the 4 front bracket bolts get red...no red, you're eventually going to lose these bolts, especially on the right. even with red, you need to check them periodically.

looks good in black. there are a few non black parts i might do something about.

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Old 11-06-2013, 04:21 PM   #2177
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L.B.S. View Post
Darth Versydious model?

yup, Darth Versydius meets Mad Maximus.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #2178
MTrider16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
motor mount bolts in place. the 4 front bracket bolts get red, the 2 main motor mount bolts get blue even though they use a captured lock nut.

REPEAT: the 4 front bracket bolts get red...no red, you're eventually going to lose these bolts, especially on the right. even with red, you need to check them periodically.

looks good in black. there are a few non black parts i might do something about.

Looking more and more like a motorsickle.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:10 PM   #2179
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTrider16 View Post
Looking more and more like a motorsickle.
it will look more like a moto when i get this straightened out, but right now it looks like a mess...

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Old 11-07-2013, 09:41 PM   #2180
TheGreatHareafter
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Like Deja Vu all over again...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
motor mount bolts in place. the 4 front bracket bolts get red, the 2 main motor mount bolts get blue even though they use a captured lock nut.

REPEAT: the 4 front bracket bolts get red...no red, you're eventually going to lose these bolts, especially on the right. even with red, you need to check them periodically.
It's too bad they don't make something that could hold those bolts in. Some sort of mechanical way.. maybe like drilling through the bolt head and running a wire through the hole...
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:36 AM   #2181
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGreatHareafter View Post
It's too bad they don't make something that could hold those bolts in. Some sort of mechanical way.. maybe like drilling through the bolt head and running a wire through the hole...
safety wire is an option, but i haven't made up my mind on that direction.

it's interesting that the guys riding the stock Versys don't report loose bolts, but do report motor vibes through the bars, which to me is an indicator of loose engine mount bolts. i've always noticed loose bolts, and have lost a few on my cop motor bikes, whether the ER6 or Versys frame, didn't matter. i do know that blue is a waste of time and Loctite on these bolts.

at least there's a tell-tale, high frequency vibes in the bars of this otherwise vibe free moto...better stop and check the bolts. carry some spares too.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:30 AM   #2182
yokesman
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drilling a few nuts on two sides only take a few minutes ,then no worries and will not even come loose.
then you can paint them black
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:40 AM   #2183
ttpete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
safety wire is an option, but i haven't made up my mind on that direction.

it's interesting that the guys riding the stock Versys don't report loose bolts, but do report motor vibes through the bars, which to me is an indicator of loose engine mount bolts. i've always noticed loose bolts, and have lost a few on my cop motor bikes, whether the ER6 or Versys frame, didn't matter. i do know that blue is a waste of time and Loctite on these bolts.

at least there's a tell-tale, high frequency vibes in the bars of this otherwise vibe free moto...better stop and check the bolts. carry some spares too.
I had one loosen on me once. Now, I just check torque on them occasionally.

On the Versys, the fuel tank cowlings resonate at 3000-3200 rpm, then settle down at higher rpms. Everyone seems to have buzz and rattle problems, and I've got a lot of rubber glued into various places to stop it.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:07 AM   #2184
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokesman View Post
drilling a few nuts on two sides only take a few minutes ,then no worries and will not even come loose.
then you can paint them black
those are flanged M8s with a 10mm head in SS, so more than a few minutes. i'd be better off rounding up some grade rated M8s, maybe predrilled.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:20 AM   #2185
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
I had one loosen on me once. Now, I just check torque on them occasionally.

On the Versys, the fuel tank cowlings resonate at 3000-3200 rpm, then settle down at higher rpms. Everyone seems to have buzz and rattle problems, and I've got a lot of rubber glued into various places to stop it.
yeah, the infamous Versys buzz, but riders also report vibes in the bars and pegs. for some reason, the cop motor does not generate these vibes, can't say why, since the motors are identical other than tune. the cop motor/loose bolt vibe is very high frequency and can't be mistaken for anything else once you identify the cause and effect. vibe means tighten.

i was looking for differences when i rode Mike's stocker to Anchorage, but i had a faulty chain almost from the start and that masked just about anything else.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:33 AM   #2186
ttpete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
yeah, the infamous Versys buzz, but riders also report vibes in the bars and pegs. for some reason, the cop motor does not generate these vibes, can't say why, since the motors are identical other than tune. the cop motor/loose bolt vibe is very high frequency and can't be mistaken for anything else once you identify the cause and effect. vibe means tighten.

i was looking for differences when i rode Mike's stocker to Anchorage, but i had a faulty chain almost from the start and that masked just about anything else.
I cruise the bike at 80, which is about 6000 rpm with the gearing I have (15/43), and I have no vibration problems at any rpm above 3500.

What is the cop motor you refer to? Is it the Ninja 650R with higher compression and different cams? Just curious.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:53 AM   #2187
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
I cruise the bike at 80, which is about 6000 rpm with the gearing I have (15/43), and I have no vibration problems at any rpm above 3500.

What is the cop motor you refer to? Is it the Ninja 650R with higher compression and different cams? Just curious.
cop motor is the sportbike motor, more horse power and torque than the de tuned Versys edition of the same motor. side-by-side, they can't be told apart, it's all in the compression, cams, and mapping.

i run 80 at 6000 also, but with stock gearing. must be the difference in tire diameter.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:40 PM   #2188
yokesman
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oh jim,fixed it
jd,looked into other threads on various forums but nothing on predrilled nuts being available,besides you have buy a few to make it economical,do you have a source?
I just hand drill mine as it is usually only one at a time.
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:44 PM   #2189
nuggets
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Locking nut options:

Flex-Top Expanding Hex Locknuts



Stronger than nylon-insert locknuts of the same size, these nuts are made from a single piece of metal. Also known as Flexloc nuts, they have a slotted top that expands when the nuts are tightened—locking them in place and providing superior vibration resistance. Nuts are not rated for hardness. Inch sizes have a Class 2B thread fit; metric have a Class 6H thread fit. Cadmium-plated steel nuts are made from low strength steel.


$5.23 each for M8 stainless http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=paotq9


Distorted-Thread Hex Locknuts



Also known as all-metal and Stover locknuts, these one-piece nuts feature distorted threads that create a vibration-resistant friction fit—so the nuts stay put. Not reusable.
Oval Lock—One end has a complete thread distorted into an oval shape. Versions with flange cover oversized holes. Grade G have a min. Rockwell hardness of C24; Grade C have a min. Rockwell hardness of C26. Both grades are equivalent to high-strength alloy steel (Grade 8).


M8 Zinc plated class 8 steel $5.60 for a 50 pack. http://www.mcmaster.com/#distorted-thread-nuts/=paot9c

Slotted Hex Nuts


To lock these nuts, insert a cotter pin or safety wire through the slots and through a drilled hole in your fastener. Inch sizes have a Class 2B thread fit and dimensions that meet ANSI/ASME B18.2.2 (except those made from 18-8 stainless steel). Metric sizes have a Class 7H thread fit and meet DIN 935.


M8 Zinc plated steel; $2.58 for a 5 pack.http://www.mcmaster.com/#slotted-nuts/=paot7a
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:08 PM   #2190
yokesman
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Downside of many self locking nuts i getting an accurate torque on them due to the resistance of the crimp,in our instance measuring the stretch would not be considered,as in thru the engine bolts.
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