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Old 10-25-2011, 06:13 AM   #1156
pjm204
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Location: Philadelphia, PA
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I just picked up the parts to start my build...

YZ450 Front end, new oil pan to mod, R1 shock. Just need to find a rear wheel.

Can't wait to start on this build!
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:24 AM   #1157
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MODNROD View Post
Is it possible to REDUCE the travel of these forks down to say 4.5-5', by using longer spacers? (and obviously stiffer springs to suit the weight).
Sounds like just the thing for a tall old UJM.......GSXR showa;s are 3" too short.
you can reduce travel, but if you're only looking for 5", a different fork might be a better choice.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:35 AM   #1158
jdrocks OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
I just picked up the parts to start my build...

YZ450 Front end, new oil pan to mod, R1 shock. Just need to find a rear wheel.

Can't wait to start on this build!
so...don't wait, you have enough parts to work with now. fitting the rear wheel is a separate activity.

regarding the R1 shock, the stainless bushing on the needle bearing end is very hard and needs to be bored at a shop. the other end has a bushing that can be drilled, but extra care is required to make sure that a uniform wall thickness is maintained. you can ruin that bushing quite easily. the best way is to construct a temporary fixture to hold the shock in the proper position while the bushing ID is drilled. use cutting oil, you don't want heat.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:54 AM   #1159
pjm204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
so...don't wait, you have enough parts to work with now. fitting the rear wheel is a separate activity.

regarding the R1 shock, the stainless bushing on the needle bearing end is very hard and needs to be bored at a shop. the other end has a bushing that can be drilled, but extra care is required to make sure that a uniform wall thickness is maintained. you can ruin that bushing quite easily. the best way is to construct a temporary fixture to hold the shock in the proper position while the bushing ID is drilled. use cutting oil, you don't want heat.

Thanks for the advice. Luckily I have access to a shop with a mill/lathe/welding equipment. I checked yesterday, no 12mm reamer but maybe a 12mm drillbit could be used if done carefully. I plan to start this weekend. I should have the shock, forks, and oil pan by then. The rear wheel will have to wait until I find something a bit more budget friendly. $600 for a wheel is hard to stomache, though I need to remember I'll have 2 wheels, fairings, forks, and a rear shock to sell from the Ninja.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:26 AM   #1160
jdrocks OP
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Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
Thanks for the advice. Luckily I have access to a shop with a mill/lathe/welding equipment. I checked yesterday, no 12mm reamer but maybe a 12mm drillbit could be used if done carefully...

put a mic or digital caliper on the bolt, it's not a true 12mm. if you have a good index set, you'll find the correct bit. be careful.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:33 AM   #1161
pjm204
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Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
put a mic or digital caliper on the bolt, it's not a true 12mm. if you have a good index set, you'll find the correct bit. be careful.

I'm sure I'll be able to figure something out. I'm hoping the local bearing shop has some bearings I can use to adapt the YZ stem to the ninja steering head. Hopefully it is long enough too. We shall see I guess. Wonder how reduced the steering will be with this big ol' USD's on there.
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:51 PM   #1162
pjm204
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Shameless plug, my build will be housed here

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=736687
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:44 PM   #1163
jake28
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And my roadie build to be here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1#post17156361

Thanks all for the inspiration.
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:22 PM   #1164
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ok gentlemen, enough of the shameless plugs, get busy.

i want you guys to come up with something unique that i can use on the V649HP, i'll be watching.
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:26 PM   #1165
ben2go
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
Shameless plug, my build will be housed here

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=736687
Quote:
Originally Posted by jake28 View Post
And my roadie build to be here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1#post17156361

Thanks all for the inspiration.
I subscribed to both of you guys threads.Looking forward to the builds.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:14 PM   #1166
ben2go
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Just wanted to drop this in here.

For those that are attempting a front end swap, and want to know what front ends may work,compare steering stem bearing sizes.
The EX650R and the ER-6N run 35mm x 55mm x 14mm steering stem bearings.Here is a link to a cross reference chart.
http://scandalon.com/2009/06/motorcy...ng-size-chart/

Conversion bearings can be found here.
http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconvertion
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:02 AM   #1167
jake28
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Now truly a shameless plug.

Thread heavily updated, all it is missing are boobs.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1#post17156361
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:13 AM   #1168
ben2go
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Originally Posted by jake28 View Post
Now truly a shameless plug.

Thread heavily updated, all it is missing are GIANT boobs.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1#post17156361
OK fixed.

I hope I anwsered one of your Qs on your thread.
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Old 10-30-2011, 04:19 PM   #1169
jdrocks OP
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i had a late model KLR (2008+) side stand that i didn't have time to fool with earlier, so i finally dug it out.



the KLR side stand has a nice offset and eliminates a problem that occurs when you end up extending the OEM straight side stands to accommodate these tall bike builds. the side stand is not a ridgid mount, and the extra length allows it to bump against the swingarm occasionally. not a huge problem, but one i would fix. the offset fixes it.

the KLR side stand fits the Versys/ER6 mount and uses the same style switch. the only change needed is to lengthen the tube. yes, these builds are taller than a stock KLR, way taller than a stock Versys.

there are several different ways to go about it, but i use an index line on the tube before i cut it. makes reassembly easy, the foot needs to go back in the same relative position. the BIC whiteout pen is a nice shop tool for applying layout lines or marks on dark surfaces, it makes a nice fine line.



a 7/8" handlebar section makes a perfect extension, the OD of the bar is the exact ID of the metric side stand tube. the extension length is sized for the correct bike upright position, then extra is added for the depth the ends extent into the tube. the tight fit of the bar in the tube means that the assembly is straight as fitted. the alignment is verified against the index line, then the joints are welded. makes a nice strong joint.

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Old 10-30-2011, 06:14 PM   #1170
ben2go
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Cool mod.I use all thread and jam nuts to make my side stands adjustable.Requires tapping the side stand halves but is cheaper than paying a welder.I gotta buy me a welder.
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