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Old 02-19-2012, 05:48 AM   #1
pawelsitek OP
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Wild Wild Caucasus 2011.

Here is SituGS, from Poland.

30 may i started my trip to North Caucassus.
At first - i will tell you only one thing. If you want to drink the best vodka in the world - go there2
I made 2200km in 2 days to Psebay, there i changed my tires to Mitas E10 and started adventure.

This is Psebay and Philip, he invited me at first night in Russia




I heard about road near Abchasya border - i found it and made some offroad near Dombay.
Hills was ober 20% - it was very hard way for GS. It is too heavy bike for routes like this.






And this is basic equipment in Caucassus home:)


And here is first part of my movie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRxgaIUTUsY


There live the most hospitable and friendly people in the world, only in Caucassus. They are muslim, but drinking vodka:) (only in Chechnya they don't drink).
It is nescessary to speak russian if you go there, if not, it is a problem. They love to talk, ask lot of questions. For them guest in their home is a bless from Allach.
I have eaten there the best lamb meet in the world. Sheeps are living very high in mountains, drink clear water. In Iceland meet was not so good as there.

Caucassus is not only mountains. This is the place where you feel friendship beetween different nations. I recomment everyone to go there.

Next parts of video comming soon:)
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:52 AM   #2
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Kabardino Balkaria.

GAI (russian road police) post, pass control.... at first i was shocked, but now it is normal, i am used to;)
One officer told me that he was in army and stayed in Poland in Borne soldier base. Asked me for polish money, a gave him some....

Destination for that day was Chegemske Vodopady and looking for roads to Elbrus.
In Chegemske Vodopady i met local girls








After that local guys invited me to have some vodka and eat lamb "shashlyk".


Chechen girls loved my GS So i invited them to take a seat.




After that i started bavarian boxer and made some offroad.







After that i go to Nalchik. I met there local taxi driver, Aslan.
He told me to pu bike in his garage and come home. Nice man, like everyone in Caucasus. They like guests, especially those crazy alone motorcycle riders Everyone i met asked me - what are you looking for? There is nothing, no hotels, no atractions. Why you came here?

This is Aslan:


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Old 02-19-2012, 05:57 AM   #3
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Next day in Kabardino Balkaria...

Destination - Elbrus and road under the top.
I knew about political game near Elbrus and "conquer terrorist operation". Local people says that there is no terrorism. In mountains people are fighting always, it is normal :)
This is a conflict between Kabardin and Balkarian nation.

I go thru 3 GAI post, OK. But i arrived at soldier post, they told me to go back. I asked them to make a phone call to "kamandir", no way.... Elbrus is close for tourist. Soldiers told to me "slavian brother".... its normal in Russia, they remember polish girsl and vodka, lot of them stayed in Poland in time of Soviet Union.

I turned back once again to Chegemske Vodopady. The day before i noticed a mountain road that is going to Elbrus Region.




At the end of the road soldiers..... i turned back.

I arrived in village Eltubu/Bulungu. Calm quiet place.








Under the wall i noticed 2 local guys, called "dzhigitt" making their national hobby, drinking vodka outside...:friday
I stopped bavarian shit and started to talk. They wanted me to drink, but i was affraid of police.I smoked some cigarettes, of course russian. Quite good and cheep.

I thing they liked me:bounce1


One of them told me to make some pictures to show everybody what a nice people live on Caucassus. It was great idea.

So - you can see brave and strong "dzhigitt" from wild wild Caucassus:bounce1




I started BMWshit and go back to Chegemske Vodopady, have na shashlik and studied map.... the is no road to Elbrus :(


I charged my phone from GS battery:


.... and go back to Aslan home to drink some vodka, eat lamb and talk about this cruel and bad world.....
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:05 AM   #4
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NExt morning....
.... small beer with Aslan and preparing for road to North Osetia.

But i wanted to visit Bezengi and Verchnaya Balkaria.
So i go there...









Nice place, small village in mountains.
After that i turned right to Verchnaya Balkarya.
I was 5 km from village and stopped for pictures. I want to start the bike - all control lights get dark.... i thought - fu*ck, starter failed.

Muslim, local "dzighitt" was riding his Lada. He saw me, stopped, offered me help.
We took the rope and pulled GS to Verchnaya Balkaria to Muslim's garage.


Lucky..... starter is OK, there was no elektric contact. I made it quickly....
Muslim told me to stay in village... not "asked", "told me".....
.... and it is impolite to refuse.... this is Caucassus... you can't say no!
Muslims wife and mother invited me for dinner.... lot of food, the best food i have ever eaten. And vodka of course.

After dinner i started the bike and took some ride in village:






All evening we was talking, drinking.... Muslim made a phone call to his brother and gave me the mobile....
... Muslim's brother, Aslan know polish language:bounce1 He was working in Poland..... we talked few minutes, it was nice.

Caucassus vodka is the best...
You get up in the morning and feel good and ready for adventure :bounce1

Muslim told me about road very high in mountains.... so i decided to go there before i leave village.















Spectacular road. It was great to see it.

So - its time to leave Kabardino Balkaria.
See you next year.



I turned on road to Nort Osetia.
I arrived in Vierchny Fiagdon. There is lot of towers called "Bashnya"








Near the towers there is some kind of cementary.




One local man told me that near the road to Karmadon there is very big cementery. This road was damaged by glacier so it was impossible to go further.





It was evening, started to rain... i was we and cold..
Fortunatly Eric Gagkayev, friend from internet saved my ass.

There are two movies about Kabardino Balkaria:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-KsptswlvQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFy8fYj8gus

Nice watching.
Pictures from Chechnya comming soon.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:47 AM   #5
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Thanks for taking us along.. it's always amazing to see the kindness and hospitality of total strangers
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:51 AM   #6
inbred
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Best Vodka in World?

Love the photos and your trip log, but in declaring that region as having the best vodka in the world you may have gone a bit too far. Given the evolution of Vodka production all around the world over the last fifteen years, it is very unlikely you've stumbled upon the very best. In fact given the unrefined techniques most Caucasas crafters employ, I'm very skeptical. I will keep an open mind, however, hoping you publish some tasting notes and info on producers. No matter what though, you sure do seem to be enjoying yourself. Ride in good spirts brother.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inbred View Post
Love the photos and your trip log, but in declaring that region as having the best vodka in the world you may have gone a bit too far. Given the evolution of Vodka production all around the world over the last fifteen years, it is very unlikely you've stumbled upon the very best. In fact given the unrefined techniques most Caucasas crafters employ, I'm very skeptical. I will keep an open mind, however, hoping you publish some tasting notes and info on producers. No matter what though, you sure do seem to be enjoying yourself. Ride in good spirts brother.
Try Russky Les (Russian Forrest). The best vodka i have ever tasted.
I brought home one bottle of osetian vodka, i dont remember the name, but on bottle was painted mountains of North Osetia.
I don't reccomend beer - is not so good.
What else i can reccoment - shashlyk - baked lamb meet. It was great food.

But what is the most beautifull in Russia - cheep fuel. Les than 1$ per 1liter. Great place for travelling
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:59 AM   #8
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Great report, and beautiful pictures! Thanks!

And that lamb looks very good ....
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:27 AM   #9
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Wow great pictures and a seriously great adventure. I've never seen pictures from this region so its nice to see them! The girls look amazing :)

Cheers!

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Old 02-19-2012, 08:56 AM   #10
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Some pictures from Checnya, Grozny.







Chechen bikers:






Playing with chechen wolf.

Thank you for watching!
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:17 AM   #11
Wolfgang55
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Very Good, very brave too.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:24 AM   #12
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:47 AM   #13
pawelsitek OP
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Thank you!

Caucasus is amazing place. There live the most nice people i've ever met.
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