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Old 12-01-2010, 01:27 PM   #1
simonboxeproject OP
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Simonboxeproject's excellent boxer project

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Old 12-01-2010, 01:29 PM   #2
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frame pic

sussed the pic thing . heres frame
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:27 PM   #3
Uncle Pollo
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Simon .. you have gone balls deep into that.

My admiration is yours.
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mikuni vm32-33 both sides :\ 5000 feet altitude/
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:58 PM   #4
beemercafe
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I feel that the rearsets made the gearchange better on my R65LS

The mikuni's are 34mm roundslides (i think they look best)

I am also polishing the rims with the intention to black out the centres/diff
:)

Registered in NSW nice little lams approvd racer
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:12 PM   #5
Nick Makwell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemercafe View Post
I feel that the rearsets made the gearchange better on my R65LS

The mikuni's are 34mm roundslides (i think they look best)

I am also polishing the rims with the intention to black out the centres/diff
:)

Registered in NSW nice little lams approvd racer
Looks great - thanks! I'll be going with them as well I think.

Simon - how the heck did you get that rear wheel to fit? I'm trying that same set up on my R65 (I have a Monolever swingarm and a K75S rear wheel)

What brake set up are you using? surely you have to convert to disc brake?
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:02 AM   #6
Alfons
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Hi Simon,

that is truly magnificent!!! which bike was the fork taken from?

greetings

Alfons
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:56 PM   #7
simonboxeproject OP
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update

Hi all thanks for the positive comments, in answer to the questions.
Forks are from a Kawasaki zx7, the yokes are zx7 also, but I have had to rework the stem. I plan to make new yokes so that I can set caster and trail. The front wheel is a 16inch gpz1000rx, at the moment the wheel spindle does not match the fork legs so bit more work to be done there.
As for rear wheel. I have done a fair bit of rework on the frame. I have made it 20mm wider at the swing arm pivot. I cut out the two cross tubes that are positioned above and below the swing arm. I then jacked the frame apart 20mm, tacked in new cross tubes, checked positions and alignment then welded it up, while I was at it I put in the new frame members.
When planning it out I modelled it up and did some stress checks. I found that the front tubes didn’t do much now so I chopped them out. The engine is now very easy to put in and out.
The swing arm has been made wider to match frame.

And yes I am planning on a disc brake.




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Old 12-16-2010, 02:17 AM   #8
Nick Makwell
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Simon - would love to know how you plan to convert the rear drum brake final drive to disk.

There's a couple of threads here about other conversions, but not a lot of step-by-step info.

looking good btw - keep it up!! (I'm seriously stalled with my project, just found out we are moving back to other side of country.....)
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:14 AM   #9
wirewrkr
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mymindsok mentioned a few posts back that the early 336 cams were NLA from BMW.
NOT true, it's just that the new correct part numbers are hidden in the bowels of BMW and hard to find. Most dealers don't know or don't care enough to dig.
They are available. ALL 3 of them.
San Jose BMW knows.
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:46 AM   #10
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drum to disc

Hi Nick, sorry to hear that your project has slowed down but I know how it is,
I started mine over a year ago but didn’t get things moving much until the last couple of months.
I have just been fiddling about with the rear shock this week. I had to make a new lower attachment (will post a pic soon).
Hope to move onto the rear drive and brake unit soon. My plan is to remove some of the flange that is the outer edge of the diff housing and make a calliper mount that picks up on a couple of the bolts that run round the inner face of the hub.
I will be doing some drawings of the parts and will post them on here if you like along with some pics.
This is how the frame is coming along.

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Old 12-16-2010, 07:07 PM   #11
bmwrench
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You might want to gusset the cross tube you tied the subframe to.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:33 AM   #12
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brkt

Hi thanks for your comments, i will go back and check that area. I did a stress check on the frame with some 3d modeling software. If i recall i loaded that area with 250lbs with a SF of 6 and i cant recall showing anything up, but as i said i will have a look again at the area and post up results.
ps as i said in a past post here is a picture of the new lower shock mount i made this week (the old one had a forked end on it (befor i cut one tang off))

simonboxeproject screwed with this post 12-17-2010 at 01:05 PM
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:17 PM   #13
Houseoffubar
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Wrench is right (technically) if that tube would see unknown loads, it should be gusseted, but for the purposes you are loading it, it will be more than fine! I tend to overbuild, and gusset everything, but when looking at what other people do, I can be more objective in my analysis. your golden! not that you did not know that already!
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:42 PM   #14
Houseoffubar
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Really like this one!

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Old 12-18-2010, 02:31 AM   #15
simonboxeproject OP
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stress check

Hi looked up my check on the cross bar. with the seat area loaded at 200 Lbs
the strut is good for up to six times this load. in real life i think that the ally subframe would fail befor that steel cross bar.
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