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Old 01-11-2013, 02:23 PM   #421
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
So does a 4 jaw chuck mean you can do this?

Yep

I turned the outside to size in the 3 jaw and marked the centre. Then fitted the 4 jaw and after calculating the offset, adjusted the jaws until it was in position, then bored away. Then freehanded the bellmouth with the feed screws and then dressed it a bit with a file and emery still in the chuck.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:26 PM   #422
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Carb Settings

I had a typo above, picked up by DR Steve. Fixed above, and here again in case someone misses it.

Main150
NeedleNCVT
clip from Top2.5
PAJ70
Leak3 T
Pilot40
Fuel Screw1.5
Float9
Start85

The leak will change, and works with improved snap into 3/4 turn after which it starts to bog.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:13 PM   #423
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Whats interesting, and I suspect an indication of the 'goodness' of the NCVT, is that after <> 50 kms of testing the muffler end cap is starting to change colour, going from slightly sooty colour, to a nice grey. Its a bit 'salt and pepper' at the moment.



Thanks again to DR Steve for his work identifying the NCVT. If you have a DR with FCR, you should give it ago.
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:56 PM   #424
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BST 40 question

Hi there, I got a question regards standard carb, I note way back on pg 3 for your BST 40 jetting you got a 37.4 pilot jet.
Why did it need a leaner pilot jet.

I have just fitted a Dyno jet kit, 160 main, opened air box and gsx can and larger header and mid pipe. I have the clip 2nd from top.

The bike pulls very nicely all the way through, but at very light throttle has a slight hesitation and it feels like it is surging at very light throttle, it runs best with the pilot screw all the way in...indicating a rich mixture?

I would of thought that after doing all these mods it would need a larger pilot not a smaller one.

The pipe is burning a litle sooty, not really sooty but would be happier if it wasn't so black.

As a rule of thumb I thought that if the mixture screw was next to the airbox, you needed to screw it in to richen it up, as opposed to if the screw was on the inlet side, screwing it in leans it off......or have I got it wrong.

Do I need to go richer or leaner on the pilot so...at the minute the screw is at 1/8th turn out, not enough from what I have read.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:04 PM   #425
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Originally Posted by pzs View Post
Hi there, I got a question regards standard carb, I note way back on pg 3 for your BST 40 jetting you got a 37.4 pilot jet.
Why did it need a leaner pilot jet.

I have just fitted a Dyno jet kit, 160 main, opened air box and gsx can and larger header and mid pipe. I have the clip 2nd from top.

The bike pulls very nicely all the way through, but at very light throttle has a slight hesitation and it feels like it is surging at very light throttle, it runs best with the pilot screw all the way in...indicating a rich mixture?

I would of thought that after doing all these mods it would need a larger pilot not a smaller one.

The pipe is burning a litle sooty, not really sooty but would be happier if it wasn't so black.

As a rule of thumb I thought that if the mixture screw was next to the airbox, you needed to screw it in to richen it up, as opposed to if the screw was on the inlet side, screwing it in leans it off......or have I got it wrong.

Do I need to go richer or leaner on the pilot so...at the minute the screw is at 1/8th turn out, not enough from what I have read.
When I got my bike the PO had a 47.5 in it. I really struggled to get an idle. I leaned it off to stock at 42.5 and before I fitted the DJ kit, I cut down and eyeballed a FCR needle that it turned out was about half way betwen stock and the DJ needle.

I progressively got it better, and the 37.5 improved it again, but I could never totally get rid of the bog from closed throttle. Before I got it right, the FCR came along, so I abandoned it. In hindsight, I suspect that there may have been an issue with the start enrichener. Everyone seems to find the stock 42.5 pilot fine, and I've ridden well setup BST40 that don't bog, so it can be done.

If the mixture screw is on the airbox side its invariably an air screw, so screwing in closes it, reducing air to a fixed fuel flow and richening the mix as a result. Manifold side screws are fuel screws, so screwing in reduces fuel flow and leans the mix. Generally a setting between 1 and 2 turns is ideal, and in my experience, 3/4 to 2 3/4 can be OK, but 1-2 is better.

What you are describing does seem like where I was at, so maybe have a good look at the enrichener plunger. Others have had issues with the O rings on the float assembly and the needle jet. I also have a mate that's DR went off song with a seemingly rich bog off closed throttle and it proved to be a worn needle jet. The DJ needles if installed as per DJ cause issues over time it seems.

Good luck.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:16 PM   #426
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What's the rear mud guard and tail light from, I don't remember you mentioning about that? Or maybe I'm getting old early.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:26 PM   #427
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What's the rear mud guard and tail light from, I don't remember you mentioning about that? Or maybe I'm getting old early.
I think I did mention it earlier, nevetheless, its the ADR guard and light that came in a box with my FE650 Berg. It was lying about in the shed, and I wanted to get rid of the stock light to fit the rack arrangement I have. An ice cream container lid was cut to shape to fill the hole from the original light. So its an Acerbis Husaberg part that complements the KTM, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Husqvarna, Honda and Suzuki bits its also got. I got another as a spare too in a pile of left over bits I got from SafariBerg when he was cleaning out his Gen2.5 stuff.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:40 PM   #428
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I progressively got it better, and the 37.5 improved it again, but I could never totally get rid of the bog from closed throttle. Before I got it right, the FCR came along, so I abandoned it. In hindsight, I suspect that there may have been an issue with the start enrichener. Everyone seems to find the stock 42.5 pilot fine, and I've ridden well setup BST40 that don't bog, so it can be done.

Good luck.
I ran into the local mechanic here in Alice this morning and he recons with the mods I've done it is drawing a lot more air which is pulling threw more fuel from the pilot circuit, hence rich just off idle, he recommended I go to a 40 pilot and try that.....at the moment we are getting 45-50 degree days depending on what part of town you are, he said be cautious with the leaning as when we get into winter -5 to 18 degrees the bike will require more fuel......

This summer is a shocker, I want to adjust tappets, but I gotta wait until it is cooler, because the engine is already 40 degrees just sitting in the shed.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:25 PM   #429
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I ran into the local mechanic here in Alice this morning and he recons with the mods I've done it is drawing a lot more air which is pulling threw more fuel from the pilot circuit, hence rich just off idle, he recommended I go to a 40 pilot and try that.....at the moment we are getting 45-50 degree days depending on what part of town you are, he said be cautious with the leaning as when we get into winter -5 to 18 degrees the bike will require more fuel......

This summer is a shocker, I want to adjust tappets, but I gotta wait until it is cooler, because the engine is already 40 degrees just sitting in the shed.
FMD that's hot.
I'm sure you could figure out a way of compensating for the engine's temperature when doing the valves.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:31 PM   #430
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More air and more fuel. At closed throttle I'd expect the relationship to be fairly linear, still whatever works. As we are routinely told, they all seem to be a bit different with final settings and there is like no identical combination of airbox and exhaust mods out there once they aren't stock. For a simple carb, the BST40 seems to create grief for some, and works great for others.

You can have your mid 40s + too. Mid 30s + are more than enough for me here. As the temp rises, the air density gets less, so less oxygen on a hot day compared to a cool one, assuming constant pressure, which isn't necessarily the case either. Its also why I richened my needle a clip from where it seemed not too bad, plus I'm at 800m and need it to work OK at sea level. My previous settings with the EMP were OK up and down, and my main is the same. Gotta ride now to confirm it all.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:33 PM   #431
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FMD that's hot.
I'm sure you could figure out a way of compensating for the engine's temperature when doing the valves.
So what do valve clearances do when an engine heats up Kernel?
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:17 PM   #432
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So what do valve clearances do when an engine heats up Kernel?
They must get wider. With a big set of feeler gauges I'm sure one could get it close enough so that they are still in spec when the engine is cold.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:55 AM   #433
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They must get wider. With a big set of feeler gauges I'm sure one could get it close enough so that they are still in spec when the engine is cold.
Or they get tighter. Depends on all the combined different rates of expansion of the head, valve heads, stems etc. Some engines close up, some loosen, maybe some don't change. What does the DR650 do? Dunno.
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:25 AM   #434
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Or they get tighter. Depends on all the combined different rates of expansion of the head, valve heads, stems etc. Some engines close up, some loosen, maybe some don't change. What does the DR650 do? Dunno.
you've got me fucked there.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:06 PM   #435
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Yep

I turned the outside to size in the 3 jaw and marked the centre. Then fitted the 4 jaw and after calculating the offset, adjusted the jaws until it was in position, then bored away. Then freehanded the bellmouth with the feed screws and then dressed it a bit with a file and emery still in the chuck.
Kewl.
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