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Old 03-20-2011, 12:51 AM   #121
BergDonk OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdy_im View Post
Looks all nice there Berg Donk, wish i had the time to tinker like you

I am getting there sub frame and rear suspension all overhauled and refitted ,just need to make that safari tank bracket and change the oil ,fit pannier racks and the bashplate /water tank

then double check all equipment to take

cheers
Rowdy
You do have the time to tinker, its just a matter of priorities

I fitted up a new E07 and 606 which should get me to Alice. The previous MT21 E07 combo got almost 7,000 kms and there was probably 1,000 left, but it was raining today... The previous rear E07 had a cut in it which resulted in a puncture on the way to Wallerawang a few weeks ago. We patched the inside and put a fresh tube in, and it got me another 1,000 kms and home, but the cut concerned me, it had a small rock wedged in it when I took it off, so cut my losses and swapped it out.

Steve
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Old 03-27-2011, 04:16 PM   #122
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Airbox Acoustics

Got out on the DR on Sat for a run out to check out the local AMCROSS round. Having not been on it for a month while it was apart and busy with other stuff, it was great to get out for a few hours. Disappointingly, it was running poorly at very light throttle openings and was cranky starting for some reason. It felt like it was running lean off the pilot, and adjusting the fuel screw made negligible difference. Confused!

When home I then remembered I'd made an airbox mod. The standard DR air box mod for stock and pumper carbs is to remove the snorkel and cut out the top to improve air flow. Some have reported fuel economy issues doing this, but after jetting it was fine, with over 500 kms before hitting reserve and another 150 kms or so on reserve.

The air box mod I'd done was to put a deflector on top to direct air to the back of the airbox and away from the top of the filter which cops most of the flow judging by the grot it accumulates. The deflector made a small reduction in the opening area at the top, and attached simply with a self tapping screw.

Realising that this was the only change done weeks before and as yet untested, and forgotten about, I removed it, and it was all good again. It amazed me that it only appeared to effect low speed running, a barely open throttle. Once on the needle and the main it was fine. Somehow it was stalling the very low air flows, very interesting

The other issue I've been trying to sort is fuel hose routing. The Safari tank sits low on the bike and when going to reserve its still wouldn't go. What was happening was an airloock in the fuel filter and not enough head from the tank to get it flowing again. Hopefully the fix is now a vertically mounted filter below the carb such that the air is purged on main and its still got fuel in it when reserve is needed. Testing yesterday suggests it might be fixed now too.

Water carriers for the passenger pegs next.

Steve
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:29 AM   #123
rowdy_im
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Got out on the DR on Sat for a run out to check out the local AMCROSS round. Having not been on it for a month while it was apart and busy with other stuff, it was great to get out for a few hours. Disappointingly, it was running poorly at very light throttle openings and was cranky starting for some reason. It felt like it was running lean off the pilot, and adjusting the fuel screw made negligible difference. Confused!

When home I then remembered I'd made an airbox mod. The standard DR air box mod for stock and pumper carbs is to remove the snorkel and cut out the top to improve air flow. Some have reported fuel economy issues doing this, but after jetting it was fine, with over 500 kms before hitting reserve and another 150 kms or so on reserve.

The air box mod I'd done was to put a deflector on top to direct air to the back of the airbox and away from the top of the filter which cops most of the flow judging by the grot it accumulates. The deflector made a small reduction in the opening area at the top, and attached simply with a self tapping screw.

Realising that this was the only change done weeks before and as yet untested, and forgotten about, I removed it, and it was all good again. It amazed me that it only appeared to effect low speed running, a barely open throttle. Once on the needle and the main it was fine. Somehow it was stalling the very low air flows, very interesting

The other issue I've been trying to sort is fuel hose routing. The Safari tank sits low on the bike and when going to reserve its still wouldn't go. What was happening was an airloock in the fuel filter and not enough head from the tank to get it flowing again. Hopefully the fix is now a vertically mounted filter below the carb such that the air is purged on main and its still got fuel in it when reserve is needed. Testing yesterday suggests it might be fixed now too.

Water carriers for the passenger pegs next.

Steve
What do you have in mind for you water carriers foot pegs

did I mention my water tank/bashplate before

I will just add a photo to remind you all



only need to fit the safari tank and new rear sprocket and I am done...

Rowdy
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:26 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdy_im View Post
What do you have in mind for you water carriers foot pegs

did I mention my water tank/bashplate before

I will just add a photo to remind you all



only need to fit the safari tank and new rear sprocket and I am done...

Rowdy
Nice work! Should be able to get heaps of mud to stick to the chequerplate.

I got 2 5l water containers from Camping World and will make up a little platform for each of them that sits on the passenger pegs in front of the panniers. Should work OK, and I won't lose any ground clearance, of which the DR doesn't have too much to start with, even when jacked up 30 mm.

Got the 130 l fuel tank fitted in the Courier last week and filled it, Ouuch$. Seems to have a porous weld on the bottom, bugger. How are yours?

Steve
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:23 PM   #125
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Cush Drive Bearings!

Cush Drive Bearings!

So another one is to be replaced. As mentioned previously, and expensively, and potentially painfully, the original failed at 14,200, and derailed and bent a chain and sprocket and locked the back wheel up.

The originals are a single sealed bearing, so no doubt some crud got in there and contributed to its demise. The replacment was a decent NSK double sealed item from my local bearing supplier.

I put a new tyre on 280 kms ago and the bearings were all tight. The rubbers are OK too, although I do have a new set to fit before departure next month anyway.

This bearing has lasted 7257 kms and although not failed catastrophically its got too much play. The sprocket can be pushed 5-6 mm sideways at the teeth, and the bearing inner moved almost 1 mm.

Surely others must be having problems with these? Have a close look.

Steve
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:14 PM   #126
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Finished my bike setup thread

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676389

Rowdy
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:26 PM   #127
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Having bent a disc years ago, and bolt on shark fins too, I've been a fan of Scotts billet fins on my Bergs. None available for the DR though. Been considering what to do, if anything, when I spotted new weld on fins from Procyle. For the price, I couldn't be bothered making one, so my last shipment included one, which I swiss cheesed before welding.



Steve
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:28 PM   #128
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A bit of scrap welded to the sidestand, AKA the bigfoot.



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Old 04-11-2011, 04:35 PM   #129
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The DR by repute has a strong subframe. When I swapped out the tailight I decided it was simple enough to make it even stronger, just in case.

Its apart at the moment as I'm fabricating my water carrying capability, so here is a pic.

I boxed in the left hand rear tab, and added some triangulation to the rh one too. Then I welded in some lengths of 25x3 flat on edge along the top of the frame tubes. It all fits under the rear guard without mods.

FWIW the extra crossmember at the back supports the small rack.





Steve
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:25 PM   #130
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So I just finished the water carriers, 2 x 5 litres that clip onto the passenger pegs and attach at the top with a bolt into an extended bolt that performs double duty attaching the seat as well. About a minute to fit or demount. Vulnerable perhaps, but its got to go somewhere, and here its not loading the front too much for sand. Will test them this weekend and if successful will get them plated to match the racks next week. 11 litres, plus 2 x 3 l bladders in the backpack.







KTMatt is sending me some replacement Rockhard Rally stickers for the bash plate, the originals having been 'borrowed'.

Steve
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:35 AM   #131
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Berg man

I like your stand foot print size will do similar to mine
maybe I will add a strengthing rod along the edge of it also

tends to be a bit soft as standard with all the extra weight

Rowdy
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:24 AM   #132
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That thing looks more and more like one very capable work horse. Nicely done!
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:05 PM   #133
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great build to watch Steve just amazing the different requirements for an everyday touring sled to a weekend sand sled
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frame build http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=13268
engine http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12131
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:56 PM   #134
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great build to watch Steve just amazing the different requirements for an everyday touring sled to a weekend sand sled
Yeah, I just keep adding weight! Must be some sort of compensating thing, you take yours off, and mine gets progressively heavier

While I had the welder out I've just made up some new footpeg hangers. Much the same geometry as the previous cut down stock ones, ie down and back about 25 mm, but this time no rubber mounts. Never really got used to them, and its one less thing to fail in the middle of nowhere.

Other than a fresh chain and sprockets, service and fresh wheel bearings, I think the DR650 is ready.

Just gotta finish 2 4wds now with long range fuel and water tanks, sand flags, shocks, jerry holders, new tyres, full service, etc etc.

Steve
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Old 04-14-2011, 03:11 AM   #135
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heavy is good, keeps the unspring mass % nice, its gonna ride like a sweet road cruising caddy

that 4wd prep stuff is gonna take some doing ... more shed time
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2008 Husaberg 700F 104kgs all fluids no fuel

frame build http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=13268
engine http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12131
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