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Old 10-28-2014, 04:03 PM   #1
scrapper OP
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1992 r100r transmission problem?

I just picked up a 1992 r100r off of craigslist yesterday. Seller told me he was riding it and he felt the transmission lock up he pulled the clutch and coated to a stop. That was back in 08 then got pushed into the corner until yesterday.

Bike has 59000 miles on it and is in good shape. I put a battery in it it turns over and has spark. I could not get it to fire up gas was flowing out of the carbs.

The transmission dont feel like it wants to shift when you move the shifter. I could role the bike around with the clutch lever pulled in to disengage the clutch. What's the first thing I shold look for to fix the transmission?
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Old 10-28-2014, 04:42 PM   #2
Rob Farmer
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I'd say the number of your nearest gearbox rebuilder.

The gearboxes are easy to work on but you do need some specialist kit if a rebuilds going to be a one off for you it isn't worth buying the kit to do it yourself.
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:08 PM   #3
disston
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You should change the engine, transmission and final drive oil before starting a bike than has been sitting for 6 years.

The gas leak is most likely a leak from the fuel hoses. Fuel hose is a weird size. It is 7mm. Old timey VW Bug shops also carry this but you can make 1/4" line work. The carb bowls should come off and the bowls cleaned. A little carb cleaner on the working parts in the bowl area.

Fresh gas? Old gas does not burn very well.

I also hope you grounded the spark plugs when you were checking for spark. Having ungrounded secondary coil wires can blow the expensive electronic module.

Sounds like something in the gearbox is broken. It will have to come apart to see what that is. Gearbox repair is not for the novice and it can be expensive.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:13 PM   #4
scrapper OP
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Tgis might be a stupid question but would a 4 speed transmission out of a /5 bolt up to the 92?
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:26 AM   #5
Bill Harris
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Nope. Different input shaft lengths.

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Old 10-29-2014, 11:05 AM   #6
AntonLargiader
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Could just be the pawl spring. Pulling the clutch won't do anything for a locked up transmission, so the previous owner and you did not experience that.
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Old 10-29-2014, 03:58 PM   #7
scrapper OP
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Thanks for the help everyone!

I will pull the transmission out and see whats going on some time this winter.
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:43 PM   #8
edmodewey
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After you pull the tranny drain the oil, put it in a box and send it to Anton. He rebuilt my R100R tranny about 7 yrs ago.

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Old 10-29-2014, 08:48 PM   #9
disston
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If you are going to try and open the trans yourself you need the tool that removes the drive flange on the output shaft. I think about $80 for the tool. But several riders who have the skills or shop time available have made a tool to do this. The flange can not be removed by prying with a large screwdriver. This cracks the rubber boot boss on the rear cover.

If nobody close enough for you to carry the box to then Anton is a good choice for mail order service. http://www.largiader.com/
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:09 PM   #10
scrapper OP
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Anyone have a picture of what the tool looks like? I am a machinist so I might be able to make one.
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:37 PM   #11
disston
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There are several threads where other members made their own. those might be better examples because they are cruder or maybe simpler.

The output flange and the output shaft are a taper fit. The nut holding them I think is 80 ft/lbs, or there abouts. It is tight and the tool is made with thick steel.
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Old 10-29-2014, 10:33 PM   #12
scrapper OP
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Thanks

That dont look to difficult to make
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:12 PM   #13
disston
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Here is the one I own. Same idea. Both of these are made by Cycle Works dot net. The first one is the current model.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:27 AM   #14
Stan_R80/7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrapper View Post
Anyone have a picture of what the tool looks like? I am a machinist so I might be able to make one.
Joergs has a BMW airhead site with many details on rebuilding the gearbox.
http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/gearbox.html

I machined a 'BMW' replica tool from some 3" 6061 aluminum rod and the puller puck from some 1-3/4" 4140 rod. The pdf link for the drawing is on Jeorgs site, but it may be broken. I bought one of Cycle works shim plates instead of making one.

The approach during disassembly is to use the steel flange to remove the nut - that same nut can be removed with an impact wrench and a 15/16" or 24 mm socket. Getting the flange off requires a pulling tool. A modified gear puller would work, provided it was strong enough.

IMO, the primary use for the 'BMW' or Cycleworks tool is during reassembly when 160 ft-lb of torque is required on that 24 mm nut. But, some may just use an impact wrench again. Like many things, there is more than one way to get the job done.
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:48 AM   #15
disston
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Stan, I think an ordinary type puller has been advised against because the flange needs to be supported to prevent it getting bent. If the flange has any of it's arms pulled hard enough it won't be flat causing problems when it is bolted to the drive shaft. The Cycle Works tool or the original BMW tool bolts up flat to the flange.

I'm all for making your own tool but I seldom get the opportunity.
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