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Old 06-29-2015, 03:44 PM   #1
JimBentley OP
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Swing arm boot replacement wisdom to share anyone?

I see a leak in my rear rubber boot, and it needs replacing.

Not having done this before, does anyone have wisdom to offer on how to proceed? I've got a Clymer manual and limited tool chest which I'm adding to daily.

What are the essential tools needed and what are the pitfalls to avoid? I read on another forum it's easy to install them backwards and upside down, so I'll be watching for that.

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm enjoying learning how to wrench on my airhead. I am a rookie and looking to learn from the experienced wrenches. I gladly repay my debts in beer whenever possible.
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:35 PM   #2
ME 109
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Is the leak in the boot itself, or from under the clamps?
If there's just one hole and the rest of the rubber is ok, a dob of suitable sealant on clean rubber is rather quick and easy.

Dunno about others experiences, but I bought one of those 'heavy duty' driveshaft boots for my 81. What a pita to fit, compared to the original 'thin' boot that only lasted 33 years.
The thick style is definitely a squeezed in fit compared to oe, and makes it difficult to get yer fingers in to the driveshaft bolts.

Can see the benefit of the thick boot on the modified swing arm travel bikes tho?
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:59 PM   #3
disston
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Is the bike in question your 1990 R100GS?

Doesn't that bike have a Paralever swing arm? They do not have oil in them. So if you have a leak from the boot the first thing you may have to do is fix the oil seal that is leaking. Either the seal in the final drive or the rear seal in the transmission.
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Old 06-29-2015, 05:25 PM   #4
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Is the bike in question your 1990 R100GS?
Doesn't that bike have a Paralever swing arm? They do not have oil in them.
+1 Disston.



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Old 06-29-2015, 06:24 PM   #5
ME 109
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Those modern bikes always trick me.
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Old 06-29-2015, 07:52 PM   #6
Bill Harris
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Me too-- get out of the '70's and too much into the '80's and I have to look things up...

You're right, tho-- the HD swingarm boots are a PITA. Nevermore.

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Old 06-30-2015, 06:36 AM   #7
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+1 Disston.



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Thanks fellas. I didn't know that. So...now I'm wondering how technical fixing those leaks will be. I guess the nice thing about owning a 25 year old bike is you will always have ample opportunities to wrench on it, right?

Do you think I can do the work using center stand and strapping it to front wheel or is a bike lift/jack going to be necessary?
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:11 AM   #8
disston
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It can be done in the driveway on the centerstand. Other than that I don't know much because I don't have a fancy Paralever. I can tell you that it is a job you can do but you will need a couple of special tools. If it's the seal at the rear of the trans you need the puller to get the flange off the output shaft of the trans. If it's the seal in the final drive there's a couple of tools to deal with that.

The source for all these special tools is Cycle Works. http://cycleworks.net/

Highly recommended is a manual. Either Clymer's or Hayne's. Most of us have both. Edit, didn't see you have one.

First order is to figure out which it is. The final drive seal or the transmission seal?
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disston screwed with this post 06-30-2015 at 08:29 AM
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:46 PM   #9
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The worst parts of the job are getting the pivot pins out, renewing the pivot bearings, and getting the driveshaft back on the rear drive. The pivots-at least the non-adjustable one-is Loctited. You'll need to spend some time on it with a heat gun. If the bike has any mileage on it, the bearings are often damaged. Have two spares on hand.
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:19 PM   #10
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
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First order is to figure out which it is. The final drive seal or the transmission seal?
Exactly. I'd make sure it's not leaking from the shock first. Did you undo the clamp and drain what's in the drive shaft into a container? If so, how much came out? Next, check the transmission oil level. It should be level with the threads with the bike on the center stand. If it's low, you may have found your culprit. Fill it to the threads as specified. Then, check the rear drive oil level. These can be hard to judge. I drain the oil and add the same measured amount. Then begins the waiting game. If it is not leaking so much as to get the rear tire oily, I'd ride it and check the levels again a bit further down the road. That rear boot swap is a PITA; having to remove, replace and retorque those pivots, in place is the way to go.
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:02 PM   #11
Bill Harris
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The paralever swingarm is a maintenance items on the newer BMWs. Oil leakage at the boots means that a seal at the transmission or the final drive is leaking and that seal needs to be replaced. The boots themselves are the least of the worries. Pivot pins need to be lubed, serviced or replaced. Driveshaft u-joint bearings need service or replacement. The driveshaft rubber cushion may need replacement. The rubber bushings on the parallel link might need replacement.

Remember, you've got a specialized offroad suspension in the motorcycle equivalent to an SUV 4WD axle joints which are expensive and maintenance-prone. Expect to drop some serious coin.

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Old 06-30-2015, 09:38 PM   #12
Square1
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How many miles on the bike.

Is the transmission one of those that is missing the circlip.

Check your VIN number on Snowbums site.

That missing circlip can be the cause for a leaking Transmission rear seal.

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