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Old Yesterday, 06:11 AM   #1
Jim Day OP
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: So. Cal.
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My R100R needs the boot

Got a crack in my R100R boot at the transmission. I've hear that the paralever will take the same boot as /6 onward. Is that the case? Part numbers? Purchase recommendations?
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Old Yesterday, 06:38 AM   #2
Beater
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Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Day View Post
Got a crack in my R100R boot at the transmission. I've hear that the paralever will take the same boot as /6 onward. Is that the case? Part numbers? Purchase recommendations?
That part is responsible for more bloody knuckles than all other parts on the bike combined. I hate that damn thing.

The real secret (at least on the monolevers and twin shocks) is to take the bolts out of the swing arm and move the swingarm closer to the transmission when taking putting the boot on. Or ... you can also take the shock off and align it ... trying to put the boot one while the swingarm is in place or when the shock is extended to max length is a real problem.

I've only done a paralever once ... and it was also a PITA.
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Old Yesterday, 06:41 AM   #3
boxerboy81
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$22 from Max. They also list an alternative with a pn that doesn't compute in the realoem site

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...5&rnd=04282014

Compatibilities...
2471 R 80 G/S N/A
2471 R 80 ST N/A
2472: Details on 2472
2472 R 65 N/A
2472 R 80 N/A
2472 R 80 RT N/A

2473: Details on 2473
2473 R 100 R 91 N/A
2473 R 100 R Mystik 94 N/A

2474: Details on 2474
2474 R 100 /7T N/A
2474 R 100 /T N/A
2474 R 100 RS N/A
2474 R 100 RT N/A
2474 R 100 S N/A
2474 R 100 CS N/A

2476: Details on 2476
2476 R60/6 N/A
2476 R75/6 N/A
2476 R90/6 N/A
2476 R90S N/A

2477: Details on 2477
2477 R 60 /7 N/A
2477 R 75 /7 N/A
2477 R 80, R 80 /7 N/A
2477 R 80 RT N/A

2478: Details on 2478
2478 R 100 RS N/A
2478 R 100 RT N/A

248: Details on 248
248 R65 N/A
248 R65LS N/A

47E1: Details on 47E1
47E1 R 100 GS N/A
47E1 R 100 GS PD N/A

47E2: Details on 47E2
47E2 R 100 GS N/A
47E2 R 100 GS PD N/A
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Old Yesterday, 07:02 AM   #4
Stan_R80/7
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I will eventually need to do the same. Max BMW lists the boot as "a difficult installation, especially on the paralever bikes, and it is possible to install it upside down and/or backwards". But, that boot covers a large number of models: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...01%20230%20304

Max also lists an improved version, "Easier to install with an inside groove that holds the boot in position. Clamp grooves are wider to help assist in installation. More flexible than the original BMW boot.": http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...&parts=3318304

My 1978 still has the original boot.
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Old Yesterday, 07:12 AM   #5
photorider
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Forget about the OEM part. As others have mentioned it is a PITA.


This is a much better option. http://www.bmw2valve.com/motorcycle/D-6/3318304.html

I've changed both and the improved version is a MUCH better design.
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Old Yesterday, 07:28 AM   #6
Screaming Chicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beater View Post
That part is responsible for more bloody knuckles than all other parts on the bike combined. I hate that damn thing.
*thinks* That can't be right... Oh hang on, it's an R100R, it doesn't have the PD fairing.

But, yeah. Main trick for me is to take the shock off and level the swingarm. Then it'll pop right on. Don't even attempt it with the swingarm at an angle aka with the shock mounted...
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Old Yesterday, 08:02 AM   #7
flemsmith
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Timely...

Just getting ready to do this. I'll try the Seibenrock part. Glad I saw this thread.

roy
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Old Yesterday, 08:20 AM   #8
bgoodsoil
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Quote:
That part is responsible for more bloody knuckles than all other parts on the bike combined. I hate that damn thing.
+1000

Quote:
Originally Posted by photorider View Post
Forget about the OEM part. As others have mentioned it is a PITA.


This is a much better option. http://www.bmw2valve.com/motorcycle/D-6/3318304.html

I've changed both and the improved version is a MUCH better design.
How have I not seen this!? Thanks!
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Old Yesterday, 09:43 AM   #9
SOLO LOBO
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My trick is to pull the shock and hold the swingarm level. This gives decent room and makes the task easier.
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Old Yesterday, 11:52 AM   #10
Jim Day OP
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Great info
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Old Yesterday, 12:59 PM   #11
motor_chris
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What is the risk of running with a tear in the boot? I just turned mine upward and put a bit of silicone on it.
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Old Yesterday, 02:37 PM   #12
jwegman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motor_chris View Post
What is the risk of running with a tear in the boot?
On a twinshock that runs a wet drive shaft, it could leak.
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Old Yesterday, 02:41 PM   #13
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
My trick is to pull the shock and hold the swingarm level. This gives decent room and makes the task easier.
+1 I have never had much trouble installing them thusly. Real easy to do. The solution was staring me right in the face.
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Old Yesterday, 03:00 PM   #14
walkingbear
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90 min job

they swing arm bolts out after the taking the bolts out of the drive shaft and move swing arm back .

Give you enough room to get it out and get it in.
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Old Yesterday, 03:26 PM   #15
Prutser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photorider View Post
Forget about the OEM part. As others have mentioned it is a PITA.


This is a much better option. http://www.bmw2valve.com/motorcycle/D-6/3318304.html

I've changed both and the improved version is a MUCH better design.
On what bikes did you use them Rob ?

They fit much better on the para levers ( thats what they are designed for) but they were too loose on the mono swing imo.
The swingarm side was really loose on the mono's I tried them on.
You can also feel and hear the U-joints rubbing against them.
The thicknes of those improved ones also causes them to get stuck between the swing arm and the tube thats above it on the mono's. If thats the case the hose clamp will be pushed and cut through the rubber.
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