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Old 01-05-2011, 03:36 PM   #46
beechum1
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gawd damnit I forgot the FCR, that's by far the best carb on the market.
Get that one if you can afford it.........jezze I had another brain fart thanks TFLife.......
what's the difference in carbs.... is there somewhere that explains it? I don't get why, if it delivers fuel, why one delivery is better than another....
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I used to say "one day" a lot. But then I got scared I would wait one day too long. So I am doing it all now
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:45 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
gawd damnit I forgot the FCR, that's by far the best carb on the market.
Get that one if you can afford it.........jezze I had another brain fart thanks TFLife.......
Alright.......calm down....i wasn`t tryin to piss you off........geeeeezzzzzz

Back away from the puter and drink 6 beer........get back to me after you start feelin it

mannnnnnnn do i ever want a beer,,,cold beeeeeerrrrrrr...oh,oh...better not let Steve here this,,he might start droolin

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Old 01-06-2011, 03:48 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
what's the difference in carbs.... is there somewhere that explains it? I don't get why, if it delivers fuel, why one delivery is better than another....
It`s a quality and design thing..........

Like which is better a Honda Civic........ or a Kia Rio........

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Old 01-06-2011, 03:51 PM   #49
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It`s a quality and design thing..........

Like which is better a Honda Civic........ or a Kia Rio........

B
Kia Rio

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Old 01-06-2011, 04:10 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
what's the difference in carbs.... is there somewhere that explains it? I don't get why, if it delivers fuel, why one delivery is better than another....
The FCR meters the fuel better, I still like the eddy for the ease of tuning, you give up a liitle performance but they still work good. People complain about the eddy but I have no issues with them. I think they made a few bad ones and that's all it takes to get a bad wrap.
The XR650R carb is a good swap that works great for the dollars invested also.
I'am not saying the CV carb is junk either because it's not, it works good for all intended purposes, it will only meter as much fuel as needed.
It just meters it slower because the slide is pulled up from vacuum instead from your left hand.
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:12 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
It`s a quality and design thing..........

Like which is better a Honda Civic........ or a Kia Rio........

B
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:26 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
The FCR meters the fuel better, I still like the eddy for the ease of tuning, you give up a liitle performance but they still work good. People complain about the eddy but I have no issues with them. I think they made a few bad ones and that's all it takes to get a bad wrap.
The XR650R carb is a good swap that works great for the dollars invested also.
I'am not saying the CV carb is junk either because it's not, it works good for all intended purposes, it will only meter as much fuel as needed.
It just meters it slower because the slide is pulled up from vacuum instead from your left hand.
so the FCR would give better response, and deliver the fuel quicker than the CV, thereby creating the better performance?
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I used to say "one day" a lot. But then I got scared I would wait one day too long. So I am doing it all now
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:12 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
The FCR meters the fuel better, I still like the eddy for the ease of tuning, you give up a liitle performance but they still work good. People complain about the eddy but I have no issues with them. I think they made a few bad ones and that's all it takes to get a bad wrap.
The XR650R carb is a good swap that works great for the dollars invested also.
I'am not saying the CV carb is junk either because it's not, it works good for all intended purposes, it will only meter as much fuel as needed.
It just meters it slower because the slide is pulled up from vacuum instead from your left hand.
I agree totally on the CV carb being a good carb........it`s has one advantage over the others too......it works better at varying altitudes..........

It`s only real downfall is it`s slow.not a performance carb at all..there is a large hesitation if you wack the throttle open....where a pumper carb will take off and rip your arms off........

The #1 thing people tell me about putting a FCR pumper on is they found the power they thought the bike should have.........it`s not that it really gains power......it`s just that it`s instant full power and not a slow windup like the CV gives...

B
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:18 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
I agree totally on the CV carb being a good carb........it`s has one advantage over the others too......it works better at varying altitudes..........

It`s only real downfall is it`s slow.not a performance carb at all..there is a large hesitation if you wack the throttle open....where a pumper carb will take off and rip your arms off........

The #1 thing people tell me about putting a FCR pumper on is they found the power they thought the bike should have.........it`s not that it really gains power......it`s just that it`s instant full power and not a slow windup like the CV gives...

B
mmkay, thanks. Suspension and carbs are on my list to figure out. after that is women.
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Originally Posted by flyingdutchman177 View Post
I used to say "one day" a lot. But then I got scared I would wait one day too long. So I am doing it all now
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:32 PM   #55
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mmkay, thanks. Suspension and carbs are on my list to figure out. after that is women.
Drop the last one on that wish list.......trust me..it ain`t gonna happen




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Old 01-07-2011, 05:38 PM   #56
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I bought my XRL with a bad piston and fell prey to the mine-as-wells when I had it apart. I had the valves done, head ported, HotCams Stage I cam, Wiseco 10.5:1 piston and a +1mm bore. Did all the Dave's mods plus various combinations of the Dynojet kit, swiss cheesed the airbox, added a Uni filter, and added a SuperTrap IDS2 exhaust.

I'm much happier with the performance, but it's been a bitch to tune right, and it's very sensitive to fuel now. I kept trying to remedy overheating and lean conditions to stop my knocking, but after I installed a temp gauge and jetted it so fat it wouldn't run right, I'm pretty sure it's crappy gas causing my knocking. Maybe not crappy gas, just less-than-great gas.

If I had to do it over, I don't think I'd go with the high-comp piston, especially the Wiseco. Of course, without the hi-comp piston, there's not much point to a cam.

Not to hijack, but does anyone have any suggestions to help knocking given the mods I've already done? Great info here.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:25 PM   #57
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You could try a more radical cam.

Although it seems rare for a 650L owner to install a cam and keep the stock compression, I have heard reports that there is still a noticeable improvement.

Overfueling will only help so much if the fuel octane is inadequate...same with a colder plug. I find it unusual that yours pings with the cam, though. My 600 had a bad time on pump 91 until I put the Hot Cam in. Before that it was only happy on 93+. I will admit that I have not yet tried leaning the mixture back out(it's still fat from before). Who knows, it might start rattling again when I do.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:40 PM   #58
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Cry A little help with cylinder-to-piston wall clearance please



Hi,

I have a 101mm first over bored 1994 XRL. It was knocking badly. It sounded like piston slap, but after i ripped it apart, ALL IS WELL.

My question is this: what should the gap between the top of the piston and the cylinder wall be? The service manual says 0.005" MAX and I can shove the piston side to side a good 0.125" when I look at it now. IS THIS NORMAL?

The bore was measured by a local shop= they think it is fine and I should just replace the rings...and maybe the piston. If I do this, do I need to hone the cylinder? It's nikasil, right? I can't just buy another of the shelf 101mm piston kit and throw it is there, right? Or can I....


PLEASE help.

Thanks,

Nick





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Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Put a FCR pumper carb on it,,,,,,and do the NX650 2nd gear mod........

Let`s face it,if you put a high compression piston in and a cam you are not going to gain much in horsepower..you might gain 5 or so....unless you go completely crazy with 105mm,porting,cam,carb.......

A good pumper carb will wake the bike up the most,without killing the engine life...

You can get more power from the engine,but you are going to spend a ton of money, and engine life can suffer,the main problem with trying to get alot of power from these engines is they are air cooled.....high power means high heat.......and the XRL can`t get rid of more heat than a little over stock........

Everyone wants these bikes to run like a new Husky or CRF or something but still be reliable,,it`s not gonna happen..........and the newer bikes have something like 12-1 compression or more.........and being water cooled they can take that for awhile longer........

If you want a fast bike,buy a fast bike.......these bikes can be fun,and have decent power ....but they definately have their limits..

If you put a 10.5-1 piston in it,you better be aware that it can spark knock/detonate badly.....


I`m sure CW can tell you what kind of money it`ll cost to get any real power increase........and the possible problems that can come from it too........he`s been at this longer than i...follow his suggestions on pistons and carb jetting and get a real good machine shop to do the work...




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Old 01-31-2012, 09:33 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by find another gear View Post
I have a 101mm first over bored 1994 XRL. It was knocking badly. It sounded like piston slap, but after i ripped it apart, ALL IS WELL.

My question is this: what should the gap between the top of the piston and the cylinder wall be? The service manual says 0.005" MAX and I can shove the piston side to side a good 0.125" when I look at it now. IS THIS NORMAL?
Pistons are smaller at the top than they are at the bottom to account for thermal expansion under running conditions and to help get combustion pressure behind the rings for sealing. That's why piston diameter is always measured across the skirt. Looking at the gap around the crown won't tell you anything specific. Forged pistons typically require greater cold clearance than cast, too

Your cylinder is not Nikasil, it's iron. The only big RFVC to get a plated cylinder was the '88-90 XR600.
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:37 PM   #60
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What's the largest diameter piston which won't require enlarging the crankcase opening? 102.4mm, or anything larger?

And what is the largest safe overbore on the 100mm 650L cylinder without resleeving?
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