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Old 01-05-2011, 01:17 PM   #16
Dr LC8
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Originally Posted by chevaliernoir View Post
Hi

That is beautifull.

You see you have a "decent" with loads of light. I guess is the best when you are travelling.

I Use 18-200 or 10-20. Going back I wouldn't buy a 18-200 any longer.

Ciao

Nicola

P.S. Send us more pics
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:29 PM   #17
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Welcome to Glacier National Park!
Here I am in a natural area, protected, full of true glaciers and mountains.
After the flat Eastern and Central Patagonia, it's nice to finally find relief.
The biggest city here, is El Calafate. Cute and colorful city that reminds me villages of Siberia, but with a lot more tourists, and shops for tourists. It is not unpleasant either. I even have a technical break to change my rear tire, and change the fork oil seal leaking.
The Yamaha dealer in Rio Gallegos, 450km away, gave me a phone number of a workshop. Good place where they let me use all their tools and offer me some help for these fixtures. Thank you guys!


To enjoy the countryside and do not stay in town, I go over 60km of gravel road to Lago Roca to enjoy a nice campsite.
After a good freezing night, I take my little gas stove and make myself a cup of tea by the lake ... That is what is called "A breakfast in peace".
The big attraction here is the Perito Moreno.

A massive glacier, advancing nearly 1m a day, and ends in a lake where he broke up with great shots of crackle and rumble. Impressive.



This wall of ice not far from 30m high.
Look at the size of boat side and imagine when a block of ice breaks off and falls!
Then classic tour of all travelers and tourists, I'm going few days to El Chalten.
The road is fabulous, and I ride a piece of the legendary "Route 40" which crosses the country from north to south and is almost entirely paved.
The opportunity to show you the most expensive picture of the trip:


There was an icy wind, and just after the photo, the wind carried the camera and tripod, and all fall down on the lens ... which is completly broken now! But nothing serious, really. Just hardware. I now know what I'll have at Christmas!
This small village is actually a starting point for walking, climbing expeditions and hiking. Whole life revolves around it. I'll just go for a hike to discover a lake and a glacier ...
The attraction, the dream of mountaineers who come to the 4 corners of the world is especially beautiful ascent of Fitz Roy:


But while they are getting up, I'm going down in Tierra del Fuego to Ushuaia. It will be the next episode!
To give you time to think, I end with a translation of a greek poem !
Ithaca
When you set out on your journey to Ithaca,
pray that the road is long,
full of adventure, full of knowledge.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
the angry Poseidon -- do not fear them:
You will never find such as these on your path,
if your thoughts remain lofty, if a fine
emotion touches your spirit and your body.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
the fierce Poseidon you will never encounter,
if you do not carry them within your soul,
if your soul does not set them up before you.

Pray that the road is long.
That the summer mornings are many, when,
with such pleasure, with such joy
you will enter ports seen for the first time;
stop at Phoenician markets,
and purchase fine merchandise,
mother-of-pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
and sensual perfumes of all kinds,
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
visit many Egyptian cities,
to learn and learn from scholars.

Always keep Ithaca in your mind.
To arrive there is your ultimate goal.
But do not hurry the voyage at all.
It is better to let it last for many years;
and to anchor at the island when you are old,
rich with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting that Ithaca will offer you riches.

Ithaca has given you the beautiful voyage.
Without her you would have never set out on the road.
She has nothing more to give you.

And if you find her poor, Ithaca has not deceived you.
Wise as you have become, with so much experience,
you must already have understood what Ithacas mean.

Constantine P. Cavafy (1911)
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Old 01-07-2011, 04:07 PM   #18
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Motorcycle Nez Year's eve in Ushuaia

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina. It seems I'm at the end of the world. In the city the most southern of the world. Well, a little magic event takes place every year. Look at this brotherhood in full ceremony around the fire:


Every year, for the New Year's Eve, the motorcyclists of the world, riding in the area, meet in Ushuaia to celebrate it together.
The day before the big day, I saw three bikes arriving, fully loaded, in the city. I follow them. They started at 2, a third has come a long way with them, they discussed with another that we will find to eat together ... I love this atmosphere when absolutely NOTHING is planned, but where links are forged and appointments are natural to everyone. The group thus formed, with others, and there is talk of going to celebrate the new year to "Rio Pipo" campsite, as it is done, it seems, every year. At this point, we have no idea how many bikes there will be. I do not know yet if it will look like a large concentration of bearded smelly armpits, or contrary to a smart buffet facing a very select bunch of BMW 1200GS all clean.

The big day is here. I go at the camp site, and meet all motorcycles, motorcyclists and passengers come here. Here they are almost all:

Ulla and Heikki come from Finland (really!). They are used to wear out their tires and taste the fuel of many countries around the world like Kazakstan, Namibia, Russia, Australia, Europe on a light bike... And finally, they are the only one now with a BMW 1200GS! You can follow them on their blog, and it's a good oportunity to start learning Finnish!


Ben is Australian. Yes! He rides his KLR 650 from Los Angeles, crossed Central America and throughout the Andes to reach us here. He alternates as much as possible 6 months of work and 6 months of travel. Coming from an environment where travel are more the domain of the utopia that the project, reaching here gives him a special stirring sense of accomplishment.


Mariano (right in photo) is from Bariloche (Argentina). Sure, he is the one coming from the shortest distance, but he traveled on his Transalp the 2500km in 2 days. It is the quest for freedom that drives him and had pushed him last year to the northern tip of Argentina. All the girls wanted to be on the pictures with!


Paulo comes from from Brasil on his custom! And the trip is not finished because he will go up along the Cordillera to cross Chile, Peru, Bolivia, and Paraguay to go home. His journey is called "15,000 km motorcycle in 45 days". That puts you straight into the bath. You can follow him on his blog . And if you think his bike is not suited to travel, I would add that all these cases for 45 days of travel are contained in the bags of his Suzuki Boulevard C1500


Luis and Ana also come from Brazil. Both on the Honda Falcon NX400, they have only 11 days to get from Sao Paulo! The wind in the helmet is the same for everyone, whatever is the engine size.


Fred is a well-known to fans travelling far on motorcycle, because he started the big trip around the world 5 years ago, and his blog tells most of the sories. Africa will be his last destination, but plans to stay at least a year and a half to explore far and wide. He traded in his BMW against a KLR more appropriate. And then when maintenance costs are low, it makes some money to travel longer. Watch his blog: a book and a film about his travels will appear in the next months!


Felix is Belgian. A friend of him lent him the KTM 625 from Santago, Chile. Then, the preparation of the trip was minimal, and he enjoys that luxury. He has one month to make the loop in the Andes between Santiago and Ushuaia. His motorcycle is equipped with a kick and electric start. I thought only the 640 Adventure was like that ...


Myriam and Yves come from Pau (France), with their R1100GS coupled with a side car Mobec Duodrive (2WD) for 6 months on the South American tracks. Their daughter Aurélie joined them for a few days. Me: "Yves, you seems to be lit, did you hurt?" Him: "I lost a leg in Africa." It does not prevent it from rolling solo on a BMW in France. Follow them on their blog!


Guss is from Vancouver (Canada). After climbing in Alaska, he traveled throughout America down along the west coast on his BMW F650GS. He alternates as 6 months of work and 6 months of travel, so it is already 7 months of travel. Like me!


Bernaard is a German giant living in Chile for 9 years. Of course he fell in love with Latin America. He has 5 weeks to make the round trip between Santiago de Chile and Ushuaia on his KLR650, and so we will borrow roughly the same routes. Hasta luego amigo!


There are also 3 Dutch, all three out of three Yamaha Tenere XT600Z, 28 years of age (the bikes, not them). When I asked what would change if they were to start again, the answers are: I would go with 2 girlfriends and not 2 buddies, I'd go for 2 years instead of 1, and I'd take a KTM instead of Ténéré.


Is missing a picture of a couple of Brazilians, super friendly, riding a Suzuki Vstrom, and you know them all, I think.
Oh yes, there is also a special person with a rather unusual profile. Charlotte (extreme right, in photo), is French, arriving from New Zealand. Not on a motorcycle, then, but by boat. No, not a K1200LT, but a real sailboat. Sailing instructor, she sailed the oceans from continent to continent, depending of the skippers she can find on the ports. She had her place with us because after all, even if her way of travelling is different, it was always the same desire to travel, explore and take full advantage of the vehicle that knows best.


Of course, the atmosphere is excellent! We have so many things to tell each other. And at the same time, it is a great humility reigned. There're no heroes in Ushuaia. Just sparkling eyes of those who realize a dream.


According to custom in Argentina, everyone come with his piece of meat to put on the fire and share, with good wine from Mendoza.


Stories of route, air filters, job, visas, waterproof bag, marriage, tires, meetings, wine ... to fall asleep by the fire and being woken up by the daylight at 4:30AM, to take refuge in his sleeping bag.


Note that no need to be an adventurer mechanic riding a BMW GS1200 equipped to cross the continent. The variety of bikes and profiles shows that it is accessible to everyone, regardless of the money and family circumstances or health.
And as Mariano says "Where There Is A Will, There Is a Way".
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:14 AM   #19
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Awesome! Thanks for the lesson in doing photos also. And, for the time and work to share this fantastic journey.
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Old 01-08-2011, 04:49 AM   #20
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see your

See your trip, I am very touched and admire
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:45 AM   #21
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Thanks for taking us along...love the great pictures!!
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:03 AM   #22
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Fin del Mundo

That was a great introduction to far flung members of the tribe. Very cool!

Thanks for sharing.

Jed.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:55 AM   #23
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Nic
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:17 AM   #24
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Here I am in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world.
However, contrary to what is often said, there are other villages further south, mainly Puerto Williams, on an island beloging to Chile. Further south, we reach the Antarctic Peninsula where live all year long scienfitics and that welcome tourists ... Anyway, let's play the game, sweets chest and let's proudly announce that I am at the end of the world, as everything suggests it.
OK, now, this is done.
How looks like so this mythical city? In a large quiet village, in fact.
Wedged between the tip of the Andes and the oceans, the city is very peaceful.
and the mountains are always visible on one side, and the Chilean island of Navarino the other, at mid way with the rock of Cape Horn.
Houses mostly wooden, colorful, roofs with corrugated iron
The atmosphere is like a mountain village ... except that we're at sea level
The harbour is not an overwhelming activity: a small container ship traffic, a few large ships for sightseeing, a few sailing ships from the 4 corners of the earth (Even if I still don't see how a shere can have corners, but that's another debate). Almost no fishing boat. Even on an island, Argentines prefer to import the excellent and fresh meat, rather than eating fish.
Let's enter in town.


In the middle of souvenir shops "Ushuaia / End of the World", I find monuments to the Falkland Islands that Argentines have not managed to take from Margaret Thatcher in 82, when they had a military dictatorship in place. Bad years worldwide.
In any case, on many panels, the Falklands are still claimed by the Argentinians, even if I never heard a worthy justification of this.
The message is clear: "volveremos" meaning "we will be back."
With the chaotic climate of the region, where everything can change in an hour, and where winters are severe, life is organized in the houses, and the streets are often deserted.
It is time to leave town to visit Tierra del Fuego. And this crush I have is for the next article very soon!
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:41 AM   #25
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OK, is it possible that we take pictures of the exact same sign?

Buen viaje.........

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Old 01-11-2011, 11:55 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
OK, is it possible that we take pictures of the exact same sign?

Buen viaje.........

hey! It could be the same indeed.
Mine was exactly at km 2466
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:04 AM   #27
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OK, it's time to return to school. We'll start with a little geography lesson. Kevin, open your book and stop pulling the hair of thy neighbor.
Tierra del Fuego is an archipelago as large as Ireland, at the southern tip of the American continent, and extends south to the famous Cape Horn, a meeting point of the Antarctic, Pacific and Atlantic oceans. This is a continuation of the Andes mountains, and this is the only place where the mountain chain runs east to west. Chile and Argentina share this archipelago whose largest city is Ushuaia, as mentioned in the previous article.


But it would be a shame to limit the interest of the archipelago to its location, so the islands are full of interest also!
What we love here, is nature.
For Christmas Eve, Roberto, the photographer that hosts me, take me with her friends in a forrest near the Laguna del Indio, sleeping under tent and sharing a good asado with his friends.


I.N.R.I. : Instead of celebrating the birth of Jesus, we mock his death):


It's a Christmas Eve mainly in broad daylight because night falls at 11PM.


Just above my tent, a couple of birds come and go and feed their young inside the trunk ...



With such an introduction in the region, I want to take the time to enjoy the wilderness, via the small roads on foot, always on a mountainside and with a view on the ocean.




Life is rare and seems rather benign.


And I feast my eyes !




Ideal for walking, one day or several days backpacking for hiking that lead to mountain lakes fed by glaciers ...
Here again I plant the tent for a night, far from everything.




I go through many forests decimated.
The water level was too high because of global warming? acid rain? deforestation?
None of this: how the wood is cut and unequivocal: they are beavers who make these incredible damage in the area!
"Save the trees, eat beaver!"


The advantage is that I have no difficulty finding wood for the fire!


Back by swamps incredible colors delight me ...



At each step, as it is suspended on a thick layer of foam.



You'll understand: Tierra del Fuego is another favorite of Argentina.



And for my next step, we'll see where the wind will push me ...


In the meantime, I take time for once, looking up to watch the clouds, and I invite you to do the same ...

27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" width="640" height="505">



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Old 01-14-2011, 03:15 PM   #28
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Great photos!!! i wish I could ride with you on that places... why don't you go a little bit norther to see DAKAR also?? as you arre that area...

BTW, you said two great things....
"no need to be an adventurer mechanic riding a BMW GS1200 equipped to cross the continent" ...even if I am riding a GSA...and second "Where There Is A Will, There Is a Way"...what a great moto...
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Old 01-15-2011, 12:56 AM   #29
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Still loving the fantastic pictures. As for looking at the clouds, Everytime I'm outdoors, I scan the heavens. Never can tell what beauty waits for you there.
Thanks for the time and work to share the beautiful trip and photos.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:16 AM   #30
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Hello.
Sorry, for this article, I had to write it fast, and have no time for translation. So this is an automatic translation. I hope it s understandable...
----
The day had started in a very quiet and does not predict such a fall into hell.
10 hours, breakfast at Rio Grande, Tierra del Fuego. I explain to the couple Holanda with whom I share my table that I am going back on the mainland, but taking the ferry making the crossing in 2 hours and a half, not one who makes it in 30 minutes, as the outward , just to discover something else, then it's more direct to go to Punta Arenas. They warn me that the ferry does rotations about once a day and never at the same time.
Before hitting the road, a look on the internet and in fact, not only is it once a day but that day, there is no crossing altogether. I'll take the classic route to get back on the mainland.
100km of road on the part of Argentina's Tierra del Fuego, and I find myself at the Chilean border. Time to complete the forms I see on TV news Chilean showing barricades and lights ... In Punta Arenas, a priori it was heated tonight! It may look like a galley, but I do not care much for that kind of thing is always located at an avenue, and it will just avoid mingling with crowds.

I leave her alone for 100km of track to reach the Chilean ferry across and go to the mainland. Here, the last time there was a truck and two cars, and this time it's hundreds of cars queuing! I enjoy being on a motorcycle back to the line that never stops and arrive at the dock ... that is blocked by protesters this morning. Unable to move from Tierra del Fuego to the continent, not a city to stage a Chilean or close either.

Although I rarely share ideas, almost never talk, I still have much sympathy for anarcho-syndicalists.

It may look like a galley, yet sincere in my head, I said to myself "nice, something unexpected, it's going to be animation." Is that even in the worst case, if I could not make the crossing, I can still pitch your tent on the beach. I still have a packet of pasta, I always find a little water, so it really does not pose any problem.

The only thing that bothers me is that the reserve was already seeing lights from 50km. My consolation is especially high gasoline, so there is no apparent leak or smell gas, and then I will not be able to reach Punta Arenas, 170km, next site with gasoline .
It might seem like a nightmare, but on the contrary, the queue of cars is a great opportunity to tour the Meals on, touch, and ask drivers if they have a hose to siphon tank generous donor.

The hose and the donor found, you realize that cars are now equipped with systems to avoid being siphoned. Well, here I am looking for a jerry can of petrol this time. With my empty bottle in one hand and the other full of optimism, I continue to go up the lane on foot, by joking with the drivers that will not stop me passing back and forth, until that I Tapotte shoulder. A driver told me he has a jerry can of gasoline in his trunk and agree that I should take him a few pints ... 3 liters should be sufficient. Thank you amigo!
Shortly after, we learn that the situation is expected to unlock, and the ferry will pick us up at 18.30. Finally from 19h, it loads the first cars and buses on the ferry, with a little room for the bike.;)
The crossing allows me to equip myself against the rain as the first drops come. It might seem like a nightmare, but actually I am very happy to arrive on the continent.
But 50km further ... my fuel light comes on again. Carramba! I really consumes a lot of fuel and added my 3 liters will not allow me to get to your destination. The road is deserted. I figure at worst when I will have no juice, I pitched the tent beside the road, and the next day I'll stop in search of gasoline. There is no sewage service indicated in the GPS, there is not on my map. Logically, I'll fall down to about 50km from the city, where there is a big spur. The rain is falling steadily now, and also the night. It's cold. Here, it looks like a galley ahead.
Approaching the famous crossroads, happy to be at least got there through the dark night, I spot lights on the right, and I tell myself that even if the tent, as well do it where there is a housing. Well it was not a home ... but a gas station!
The attendant starts to pour a few liters, and I stopped him urgently: "I have no Chilean pesos to pay!". Fortunately it will accept pesos. Phew.
Lighter heart, I take the road not even feel the rain beating my face, so I'm happy to arrive.
A host committee is also there: a truck across the road. Y is there an accident due to rain? Still, with this truck, a car can not pass. There are lots of lights behind the truck, probably relief package to address the accident. I shudder when I sneak, but eventually the mood on the other side is pretty good, kids: this is not an accident, but a makeshift dam, with a barricade of burning tires to Surely a warm up ... rest of the events seen on television when I passed the border.
I spend quietly, without one tells me anything, happy to finally be in town. Except that I fall on a second dam. It may look like a galley ... Here they seem much more determined, and obviously getting ready to spend the night here in the rain. I hesitate, I ride on a sidewalk to pass through the side of the barricade. A guy is just in the middle of the sidewalk and he looks at me strangely. I stop to ask what is happening. He told me it was because of rising gas prices they show. I wish him good luck and enjoy that he came next to me (and not in front of the bike) to advance and pass the dam, while he himself makes me finally waved through.
23h. I arrived in the rain at the pension Independancia, warmly recommended by 3 French who have just made a similar trip on a motorcycle . The boss is actually very friendly and remembers very well the 3 French, but ... it is complete. Possibly there is a big puddle on the lawn on which I could pitch our tent. It might look like ...
He tells me another pension 200m away. I knock on the door. This is the window that opens, and a little old lady asked me what I want. "I want a bed!". A priori, we will not ask for a pension in a tax reduction or breast implants, but good. She is bothered because there are already 2 big cars and it will be difficult to return the bike. Given the atmosphere of the barricades, I tell myself it might be better not to leave the bike on the sidewalk that night. So I turn the suitcases and I'll stick against his car. It does not please him too much, grandma, grandpa, so helps me put the bike on the flowerbed ... and here I am finally dry, warm, secure.
I do not know why, this grandma is not really nice, but it pleases me well. The place is quite murky, frankly, but I am alone in a small room with two, which allows me to dry my business. The bathroom smells musty mix and toothpaste, and yet, without knowing why, I say "I feel I'll feel good here."
What I did not know is that the blockade of the city would last. As I write these lines, this is my third day here. Unable to leave or enter the city. It's the same for all other major cities in southern Chile.
Day , cars roam the streets with black flags honking. At night, military helicopters flew over the city returned to calm. What is surprising is the unanimity of the population. Everyone or almost has his little black flag. So, it's finally quiet, because there is no dispute. The determination is important.
Yesterday I took the opportunity to make a laundry, get a haircut and do some shopping in the supermarket no longer stocked. I did well because all the shops are closed today in protest. I found a chance to write you this e these few lines!
As always in these cases, when the quality of information is paramount, but there is so much emotion that it finally becomes less reliable. When I ask how much gas is rising against whom they fight, the answer ranges from 17% to 100%. The truth is probably somewhere between the two.
Hey, I read just now that ministers have just resign ! It will perhaps unlock things!
Go to support the rebelion popullaire;), I take this blog to disseminate their slogan: NO AL ALZA GAS
Amazing how when you have time, nothing is serious. All this could be a gallery but is not at all for me!
Nicolas Bouvier, in "the use of the world", writes something like "When you travel, you must learn to ignore all the luxuries, but the most important: having time"
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