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Old 01-13-2011, 10:56 AM   #61
Bicycle Phil
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Originally Posted by MacGyver Ga View Post
Great stuff,I like the details on the build , you have my attention !
+1

Wonderful ride for you Ela and a great trip report to enjoy for the rest of us
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Bicycle Phil screwed with this post 01-19-2011 at 11:21 AM
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:00 PM   #62
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Subscribed and anxiously awaiting future installments.
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:38 PM   #63
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Old 01-13-2011, 05:29 PM   #64
Johnny Dakar
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In. Lisa too.
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:28 PM   #65
Bob
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Great start, lots of good info.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:18 PM   #66
Ks-Rydr
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Pumpy.... I enjoyed your adventures with the "Dirty Girls", and hope to see another installment of the dirty girls some day. Great start to this adventure, I will be following along with you on this ride also, thanks for posting it....
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Old 01-15-2011, 09:29 AM   #67
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Thank you all for your lovely comments - and for riding along with me!
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:30 AM   #68
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New Berlin, first trails and the Río Uruguay




The next morning I was greeted with this view of the Puente Internacional over the Río Uruguay



The Pulp Mill on the banks of the river looked slightly less romantic than last night... These factories along the Río Uruguay have been the cause of ongoing controversy between Uruguay and Argentina, although a series of constructive meetings between the presidents of the two countries have taken place at the end of July. If you are interested in more background information have a look here.



During my morning walk I spotted a lot of dead fish lining the shore, which was a rather sobering sight. Officially the fish mortality was caused by the freezing cold earlier that week, so hostess Antonela told me, but she thought it was down to the sewage of the manufactories further up the Río Negro.



Breakfast in the sun



The cat kept me company.



After packing up I went for a sight-seeing tour through Fray Bentos to find out where and how far I had been walking the night before and to appreciate the home town of the Liebig Extract of Meat Company - founded by the German organic chemist Baron Justus von Liebig in the 19th century - in daylight.

Main Square of Fray Bentos



The former plant of the Liebig Extract of Meat Company, shut down in 1979.



Then it was back to the Ruta 3 and heading north. Leopoldo had mentioned the village of Nuevo Berlin the previous day and I couldn't resist to make a detour to this new edition of my hometown by the Río Uruguay.





The city map looks slightly different...



… and so does the Kurfürstendamm….



I didn't fancy retracing my tracks and therefore took a dirt road leading roughly towards Paysandú, my next destination. The first attempt ended in a cul-de-sac, but as there was only a horse to ask for directions, I just tried another trail. It was bumpy, rutted and sandy but led me to a tarmac road which joined the Ruta 3 again after a while - voilà!

Paysandú







To be perfectly honest - and I'd like to apologise to my Uruguayan readers - the Ruta 3 was not particularly exciting and when I spotted a sign to a 'Parque Histórico', I happily went on a little excursion to the Meseta de Artigas.



The road was lovely



Lined by orange groves



Supposedly it's winter over here...



I was even treated to a little trail ride when I entered the historical park.



... where I had a fantastic view over the Río Uruguay



The bust of General José Gervasio Artigas, the national hero of Uruguay, after whom the site is named.



Still life with DRZ



I was not the only one enjoying the views...



A last look north...



... then I returned to the Ruta 3 again. The GPS showed a campsite near the Reservoir Salto Grande and so I rode past the Termas del Daymán and the beautiful town of Salto until I arrived at the lakeside. Only then did it dawn on me that the indicated campsite was actually on the Argentinean side of the reservoir (I had downloaded the map software from an Argentinean GPS forum). But I still wanted to stay a night in Uruguay! There were still signs to a campsite on the eastern shore of the reservoir and so I followed a little trail further north into the woods. Nada - nothing. It was getting dark and I still hadn't found a place for the night.

Finally I pulled up at the Hotel Horacio Quiroga Spa Termal. “Lo siento, I'm sorry, the signs stand for day-camping only and the nearest campsite is at Termas del Daymán, 30 kilometres south from here,” I was told by the friendly receptionist. Mmm, that's where I just passed through an hour ago and I really don't like going back. “How much is a single room in your hotel? 139? US Dollars? Thanks very much”, - back to the Termas it is then.

It was really getting late; against my usual behaviour (I'm German after all!) I broke the speed limit of 75 km/h and still arrived at the Termas del Daymán only after dark. No campsite was to be seen. But there - "Hostal Canela" said a sign, that's where I will stay the night!

The land lady was welcoming and very interested in my bike. She helped me carrying all the luggage into my room and made sure I felt at home. For the equivalent of £16.00 I was given a whole apartment to myself. The photos are from the next morning but you get the idea how wonderful the place already appeared at night.

Hostal Canela at Termas del Daymán



The Foyer



My apartment…



And another picture - just to show off a bit...



Of course, when I walked into the centre of the village for dinner I saw the campsite I had been looking for in the dark and a lot more hotels on the other side of the main road...

However, I was really happy with the place I was staying at and if you ever find yourself in the area, Hostal Canela can be highly recommended.

The following day would take me into Argentina again.
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Old 01-15-2011, 12:02 PM   #69
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Holland is about the most expensive country in Europe when it comes to bikes and fuel..Stop whining and go riding It's just money and you only live once...
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Old 01-15-2011, 02:05 PM   #70
Blackbert
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Nice one again.
What's the story about this 'little Germany' bit? Recent history or older?
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:45 PM   #71
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What's the story about this 'little Germany' bit? Recent history or older?
There's not a huge amount of information on the internet about 'Nuevo Berlin' and all articles seem to be copied from Wikipedia:

"In the 19th century, a number of German settlements were created next to the River Uruguay, mostly composed by farmers. One of the first settlements was named Nueva Melhem (New Melhem) by two brothers, Richard and Karl Wendelstadt. They migrated from Germany around 1850 and bought the farm “El Curupí” in the Department of Soriano. A few years, they bought properties in Paysandú which they renamed as Nueva Melhem. This new farm, with some 27,000 hectares was surrounded by 32 “positions”, 31 of which were occupied by other German families.


Meanwhile, the Wendelstadt family in Germany decided to invest in their relatives’ properties in Uruguay. With these investments, the surroundings of the farm “Nueva Melhem” became the town Nuevo Berlín around 1865-1868, with the approval of the brothers Wendelstadt, who requested Fridolin Quincke to design it. The task was finished by the end of 1874."

Glad to hear that you got home safe and sound - it was good to see you and we look forward to visiting you in Belgium later this year.
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:52 AM   #72
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Hi Pumpy , i´m Chris from Buenos Aires. Great trip , pictures and writing ! ... hope you have a great time on the following 1000´s km ahead ! ... And just in case you dont know them, check these GPS map from Argentina and near countries ( http://www.proyectomapear.com.ar/eng_tutorial/index.htm ) , they´re pretty good...
Oh .. and if you get to Salta-Argentina , let me know ,i´ve some friends there who could help with local matters... ..
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:38 PM   #73
DeeGee
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Cracking Ela!! glad you made it home safe and well. This will keep me going for a few days. Fantastic pictures.
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:13 AM   #74
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... check these GPS map from Argentina and near countries ( http://www.proyectomapear.com.ar/eng_tutorial/index.htm ) , they´re pretty good...
Thanks, Chris, I actually downloaded the mapping software from both Mapear and ConoSur, did a few comparison exercises and went with the latter then because it was more up-to-date at the time and provided more details for the countries I was going to visit.

Quote:
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Oh .. and if you get to Salta-Argentina , let me know ,i´ve some friends there who could help with local matters... ..
I didn't get to Salta this time but everyone I met was telling me how beautiful the whole area is - so it's on my list for the next South America trip... ¡Muchas gracias por tu ayuda!
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:39 AM   #75
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An excellent RR.

I appreciated the technical report on the preparation of the bike too. Rare in RR's.

I see the GB sitcker went missing somewhere in the ride - intentional?
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