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Old 02-16-2011, 01:41 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by Joe Motocross View Post
DAY 16:
These are the strangest vehicles. Some sort of front wheel drive trike contraption that seem to be widely used.
There are the lot of other such contraptions plying on rural Indian roads. We used to even have WW_II vintage Harley Davidson converted three wheelers known as "phat-phat" in Delhi roads till 2000 or so.

Waiting for your confrontation with guy who rented you motorcycles..
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:29 AM   #227
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they are derived from post war german Tempo and Goliath 3 wheelers

your ride report is simply spectacular. thanks soo much for making the effort.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:42 PM   #228
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DAY 17:
We planned a mellow day with some Enfield maintenance in the morning and a casual ride up to Dharmasala. Buuurrrt's clutch was almost useless at one point the night before and mine wasn't much better. This was getting old and we were pretty fed up with wrenching on these piles. All I had to do was adjust mine and get another 4 liters of oil for the thirsty bastard. We had to tear into Burrtt's. Finally, we pin pointed the problem. The bearing on the internal clutch actuating arm was toast. While we were in there we found that the push rod was cobbled together with a few different pieces of rod.

Ah yes, time to get to know the local Enfield mechanics. They had the part we needed and we got the bike assembled again.

And we're off!! We took some quiet back roads instead of the big main one to Dharmasala. This was an awesome ride!!

The countryside was excellent!! We were enjoying this rural area.

It was a very steep climb up to Dharmasala. Lot's of 2nd and 1st gear. The clutches were working ok.

We made it easily with plenty of day left. Time for some lunch then we'd find a hotel.

Here was our choice. Not bad and very reasonable.

We had the rest of the day to check out the town. Dharmasala is located on very steep hillsides and is where the Dalai Lama resides. It's a really cool little village but it felt a bit like a tourist trap to me. Lots of tourists from all over the world are there working on becoming enlightened. Many people will come and stay for a few weeks to a few months to "experience" India. The town felt lightly catered toward westerners and didn't have that authentic flare of other towns such as the one we just stayed in the previous night. After what we'd experienced over the last two weeks it really seemed like such a small view of the big picture. We still very much enjoyed it.

There were some things that the girls wanted to get so we checked out a bunch of the merchants. We ended up getting one of these "singing bowls".

It was nice to have a mellow day. We'd almost forgot about our Enfield repairs earlier in the day.

The route was very easy. We rode about 100km. Super casual.
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:03 AM   #229
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By the way, thanks for the tid bits on those strange three wheelers. Really inrteresting.

Joe Motocross screwed with this post 02-19-2011 at 02:44 AM
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:14 PM   #230
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Time of year?

I've gone back through the first several pages of this superb ride report trying to find a date or season. No luck so far. When did this fine trip take place?

Really a beautiful piece of journalism. Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:50 PM   #231
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I think he said it was last August, Hun.

Thanks, for the packing info Minxster. You are obviously as much an expert as the guys.

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Old 02-18-2011, 07:54 PM   #232
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Great thread. Love the written story. Amazing photography.
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:18 PM   #233
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Originally Posted by HunSolo View Post
I've gone back through the first several pages of this superb ride report trying to find a date or season. No luck so far. When did this fine trip take place?

Really a beautiful piece of journalism. Thanks!
Hello HumSolo,

We landed in Delhi Aug 18th 2010 ...... Flight out was Sept 10th I believe. ~m
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:53 PM   #234
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Read the whole report! Awesome! Thanks for posting it up!
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:29 AM   #235
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Great report! I can't wait for the bike return story...
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:19 AM   #236
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Awesome as always! Looking forward to more.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:27 AM   #237
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I agree, this is a great report! Had never considered visiting India, will have to put it on the list now.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:32 AM   #238
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Originally Posted by ChrisG19 View Post
Great report! I can't wait for the bike return story...
From reading this report, I get the impression these guys are laid back to the point where there won't be any fun, just hand em back and move on ..... but maybe I'm wrong, maybe there will be

Agree, helluva report. Really enjoyed it.
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:06 PM   #239
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Just missed you!

Its great to see pics of Dharamsala with motos. I was in and out of there a few times in July that year, as well as a few other places you rode in the Himalayas. I strongly recommend NOT traveling much south of there in the summer...its SO FREAKING HOT. But being in Dharamsala for the Dalai Lama's birthday is super cool. If I had been there a month later I would have been pretty stoked to run into you and talk to Americans on motorcycles over thali and chai. During my time in India moto touring would have seemed pretty crazy to me. Just getting over the pass from Manali in a Jeep alive seemed lucky. Since I got back I bought my first two bikes and have gotten pretty deep into the the point that I want to do around the world with my daughter to skip her 8th grade year. Maybe in a Ural purchased at the factory as a starting point? My how wandering India and a KLR650 can change your perspective.

Can't wait to see how this story ends!
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:56 PM   #240
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Day 18:
We got a pretty early start again. We had to almost always start early anticipating trouble with the beaters we were riding. Today would not disappoint in that department.

Here's looking back up at Dharmasala on the hillside. It really is a pretty neat place aside from a bit too touristy for me.

We were working our way through small villages when the first breakdown of the day occurred. Buuurrts throttle cable broke. The a-holes at Smart Motors sent us of with TWO clutch cables instead of a clutch and a throttle cable. Brilliant!!

So we took the thing apart.

Not far was a parts dealer and I rode and grabbed a new cable. We installed it with only minor tweaking.

After the minor setback we continued on. The roads were not too bad and the ride was going well.

Until Buuurrrts chain popped off!! Great.

We got it back on then stopped at the next mechanics shop to tighten it up.

We rode a while longer and Minxter noticed our friends weren't behind us.

We turned around and found them with the damn chain off again!! WE WERE SO FED UP WITH THESE BIKES AT THIS POINT I CAN'T STRESS IT ENOUGH!! These last couple of days really ruined any respect for Royal Enfield. Minxter and I decided it was time for a little Old Monk. Not much, just a nip to take the edge off.

Up the road we stopped again to borrow a wrench to adjust the chain. True to form the guy who owned the wrench wanted to attempt to use it which he couldn't really do. We were so worn out that our patience was running really thin with these guys. You can see it in my face hear. Looking back I feel bad cause I know we were vibing these guys out who were only trying to help. Frustrating!

Not too much farther up the road we had to pull over AGAIN!! Buurrts clutch was acting up.

We pulled it apart to check it. I can't remember what we did to fix it. You'll note that the chain is off again in this picture. I'm telling you, these bikes were a true test of patience. You can't get mad because it only makes things worse. We just kept fixing things and pushing forward.

We covered some more ground and finally stopped for lunch. This is such a typical little eatery.

The food was excellent!!

We were beat down but trying to keep it together.

Here's a guy next to the kitchen that sells hootch. "Don't get high on your own supply" is all we could think of here.

Next was one of the worst stretches of road we'd encounter. This photo was on dirt which actually was better then the paved sections. The paved sections were so blown out with potholes we were in 2nd gear for a long time just getting punished!! The road slowly improved and we were nearing familiar territory.

YAY!! Back at the Guru's!! We stopped in just to shake his hand and show him that we'd made the loop.

He got his guys to whip up some chai and we hung around for a bit.

He gave the bikes a quick glance and did some sort of adjustment which I can't remember to Buuurrrt's. Buuurrrt couldn't start his bike for what ever reason, maybe stage freight. So, in classic form wearing flip flops the Guru rolls over the engine with a smooth stroke and the thing's idling. Too funny!!

We make it into Chandigahr and find a place to stay. Buuurrrt's shirt was looking impressive. That's mostly oil on it coming from you know what.

The dudes in the hotel were drinking and carrying on and had us join in. We hung for a bit then hit the hay. They kept at it until LATE LATE night!!

We made our goal despite the curve balls the Enfields attempted to pitch us. I told you, we were going to make the loop one way or another. Just one day left back to Delhi. We were scheduled to fly out in two days, no time to spare. Would we get the bikes back? It seemed so but we were still on the edge.
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